Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Read online

  3Entertainment

  The entertainment scene in Buenos Aires has always been lively, but there was an outburst of creative energy in the decade following the economic crisis of 2001. Filmmakers began producing quality works on shoestring budgets, troupes performed in new avant-garde theaters and live-music groups played in more mainstream venues. Today nearly every neighborhood offers great entertainment options.

  Live Music

  There are some fine venues that only feature live music, but many theaters, cultural centers, bars and cafes also put on shows. Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso is an especially good choice for tango-music performances.

  Classical

  Several venues offer classical-music concerts. Teatro Colón is the grandest and most famous; everyone who’s anyone has played, acted, sung or danced here. It often features guest conductors from throughout Latin America. Two new venues – both renovated old buildings with excellent acoustics – are the Centro Cultural Kirchner and the Usina del Arte; be sure to check what's on. The classical-music scene takes a break from December to February, and is best from June to August.

  Rock, Blues & Jazz

  Buenos Aires boasts a thriving rock-music scene. Smaller venues, like La Trastienda, showcase mostly local groups; when huge international stars come to town they tend to play soccer stadiums or Luna Park.

  Blues and jazz aren’t as popular as rock but still have their own loyal following. Thelonious Bar and Notorious are top-notch venues for jazz concerts.

  Folk

  Música folklórica definitely has its place in Buenos Aires. There are several peñas (traditional music clubs) in the city, including Los Cardones and La Peña del Colorado, but other venues – such as Clásica y Moderna – occasionally host folk performances.

  Cinema

  BA's traditional cinema districts are along pedestrian Lavalle (west of Florida) and on Av Corrientes. Newer cinemas are in shopping malls throughout the city. Most cinemas offer big discounts for matinees, midweek shows or first screenings of the day. There is usually a trasnoche (midnight or later showing) scheduled for Friday and Saturday night.

  Except for children’s films and cartoon features, which are dubbed, foreign films almost always appear in their original language with Spanish subtitles.

  Cosmos-UBA often shows retrospectives, documentaries, foreign film cycles and art-house movies. Espacio INCAA screens Ibero-American films only (essentially from Spanish- or Portuguese-speaking countries).

  Some cultural centers have their own small cinemas, while places such as Alianza Francesa and the British Arts Centre showcase movies in their respective languages.

  Theater

  Theater is big in Buenos Aires. The city’s venues number more than 100, and annual attendance is in the hundreds of thousands. While productions range from classic plays to multimedia performances to lavish cabarets, the acting tends to be of a professional level across the board. Note that, unsurprisingly, performances tend to be in Spanish.

  Traditionally, the center for theater has been Av Corrientes between Avs 9 de Julio and Callao, but there are now dozens of venues all over the city.

  Many alternative (or ‘off-Corrientes’) theater companies and independent troupes receive relatively little attention from the mainstream media, but they’re worth seeking out if you’re looking for something different. If you read Spanish, www.alternativateatral.com is a good source for current non-mainstream performances.

  Tickets are generally affordable, but check carteleras (discount ticket offices) for bargain seats. The season is liveliest in winter (June through August), when upwards of 100 events may take place, but you can find a good variety of shows any time. Many of the most popular shows move to the provincial beach resort of Mar del Plata for the summer.

  Circo Moderno

  A popular movement in Argentina that found international fame through the Broadway performance of the De la Guarda troupe is circo moderno (contemporary circus). This combination of traditional circus and contemporary dance and theater features a lot of aerial action, acrobatics and no words – great for those who don’t speak Spanish. Cirque du Soleil is a well-known example of this modern gymnastic theater.

  In 2005, Diqui James, one of the creators of De la Guarda, launched his solo act Fuerzabruta (http://fuerzabrutaglobal.com/). It’s a jaw-dropping, mind-blowing show of lights, electronic music, aerial dancing and water – and often the performance is above you. If you go to a show, you could get wet. The troupe is often on tour around the world, so check its website for listings.

  Discount Tickets & Booking

  Major entertainment venues often require booking through Ticketek ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5237-7200; www.ticketek.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 4389; h1-8pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia). The service charge is about 10% of the ticket price.

  Carteleras (discount-ticket offices) sell a limited number of discounted tickets for many events, such as movies, theater and tango shows, with savings of 20% to 50%. Try Cartelera Baires ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4372-5058; Av Corrientes 1382, Galería Apolo; h10am-6pm Mon, 1-8pm Tue-Thu, 1-9pm Fri, 2-9pm Sat; bLínea B Uruguay), Cartelera Vea Más ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6320-5319; www.veamasdigital.com.ar; Av Corrientes 1660, Local 2; h10am-8pm Mon, to 9:30pm Tue-Wed & Sun, to 10:30pm Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; bLínea B Callao) or Cartelera Espectáculos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-1559; www.123info.com.ar; Lavalle 742; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; bLínea C Lavalle). Buy tickets as far in advance as possible.

  Entertainment by Neighborhood

  AThe Center Has a little of everything – theater, live music, cinemas and tango shows.

  ACongreso & Tribunales Home to Av Corrientes, BA's traditional theater district; also has several cinemas and flamenco venues.

  ASan Telmo Some live music and tango spots.

  ALa Boca Home to Boca Juniors soccer club's ground La Bombonera.

  APalermo A few tango milongas (dance halls) and live-music venues, as well as the Hipódromo Argentino racing track.

  ASouth of Palermo Ground zero for BA's avant-garde theater.

  Need to Know

  Opening Hours

  Show times can vary widely, but this is a city that stays up all night, so expect to be out late. Restaurants usually open around 9pm – and 10pm is a more common dinner time – so many shows start around midnight.

  Resources

  Check www.vuenosairez.com (in Spanish) and www.thebubble.com (in English).

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  Centro Cultural Kirchner World-class acoustics in the beautiful former Central Post Office building.

  Teatro Colón Landmark, seven-story theater seating 2500 and boasting renowned acoustics.

  Usina del Arte Old electricity factory remodeled into a premier symphony hall.

  Centro Cultural Borges One of BA's top cultural centers, with countless offerings.

  Best Cultural Centers

  Centro Cultural Kirchner The biggest and the best cultural center in BA – and possibly the continent.

  Centro Cultural Borges Quality art galleries, cinema, workshops, music and shows.

  Centro Cultural Recoleta Many free or inexpensive events, plus a science museum for kids.

  Centro Cultural San Martín Large cultural center with galleries, concerts, exhibitions and shows.

  Best Theaters

  Teatro Colón Buenos Aires' grandest entertainment concert hall and a gorgeous building.

  El Camarín de las Musas Innovative contemporary dance and theater in Almagro.

  Teatro San Martín Large venue that's great for classic theater and much more.

  Teatro Nacional Cervantes Traditional old venue showing contemporary productions.

  Best Live Music

  Usina del Arte Amazing and beautiful new performance venue in La Boca seating 1200.

  Ciudad Cultural Konex Famous for its one-of-a-kind, Monday-night percussion parties.

  Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso Excellent venue for concerts, including tango music.
r />   Thelonious Bar BA's best jazz bar.

  Best Alternative Theater

  El Camarín de las Musas Contemporary dance and theater.

  El Cubo Hosts gutsy theater pieces and offbeat performances.

  Espacio Callejón Showcases edgy new theater, music and dance.

  7Shopping

  Buenos Aires is laced with shopping streets lined with clothing and shoe stores, leather shops and nearly everything else you can think of. Large shopping malls are modern and family-friendly, offering designer goods, food courts and even children's play areas. But perhaps the city's best shopping is in Palermo Viejo, where you'll find upscale boutiques. San Telmo is where antiques aficionados flock.

  Specialties & Souvenirs

  Wine is one of the more obvious gifts, though it's hard to carry. Some stores will ship outside Argentina; expect to pay a premium for this service. Food items that make nice gifts are dulce de leche (a delicious milk caramel that Argentines have perfected) and alfajores, cookie sandwiches usually bathed in chocolate (Havanna is a popular brand and available at Ezeiza Airport). Mate gourds are also good, and they're small and light.

  Argentina is known for its leather goods. There are leather stores all over the city, but for the best prices head to Calle Murillo. Silverwork is also high quality, and many items are gaucho-inspired. Looking for a gift for that aristocratic friend? There are a few polo stores with items that might fit the bill – whether or not he or she plays polo.

  Ferias (street markets) are full of craftspeople selling their homemade wares. These markets happen every weekend all over the city. Finally, soccer memorabilia always make popular souvenirs – especially from Boca, the most well-known team.

  Street Markets

  Wandering through a weekend feria is a quintessential BA experience. Artisans display their wares while buskers, mimes and tango dancers entertain. Often there are nearby restaurants with sidewalk tables for people-watching. At some of the more touristed markets, especially Feria de San Telmo, watch for pickpockets.

  Check out Feria Artesenal Plaza Francia in Recoleta, Feria de Mataderos in Mataderos, San Telmo's Feria de San Telmo and Palermo's Feria Plaza Serrano.

  Antique Markets

  A couple of antique markets might be worth your time. Try Mercado de las Pulgas or Mercado de San Telmo. Don't expect dirt-cheap bargains, though you might find a cool glass soda bottle or vintage lamp. The Feria de San Telmo is a fun place to look for old coins and jewelry, though there's a lot of kitsch as well. The San Telmo neighborhood has some pricey antique stores too.

  Shopping Malls

  Many of the bigger shopping malls in BA are slick and modern; some cater to families with children by offering special play areas and video arcades. Alcorta Shopping has an especially large kids’ playground on the 3rd floor, while Mercado de Abasto sports an excellent children’s museum and small amusement park complete with rides. Almost all of these malls also have multiplex cinemas and large food courts complete with fast-food outlets and ice-cream parlors. Expect all the popular chain stores; some even offer health clubs, beauty shops and internet cafes.

  Fashion

  Interested in clothing design? Then make a beeline for Palermo Soho, where the boutiques of avant-garde fashion designers grace the pretty tree-shaded streets. After the 2001 economic crash, dozens of young designers emerged from the woodwork to set up shop in this then-affordable neighborhood (rents have gone way up since then, driving some out). Some made it big, maturing into fully fledged designers with luxury sportswear lines and outposts in the US, Europe and Asia. Names you may come across include Maria Cher (known for deconstructed garments with an urban twist), Jazmín Chebar (with playful, feminine designs) and Martín Churba (known for recycling fabrics). Cora Groppo and Jessica Trosman are other big names with chain stores in Buenos Aires malls and elsewhere.

  If you're looking for leather bargains, avoid Calle Florida and head to the shops on Calle Murillo's 600 block, in the neighborhood of Villa Crespo. This is the best place in town to snag a relatively cheap but high-quality leather jacket and accessories.

  For outlet shopping there's the 800 block of Calle Aguirre, with deals on shoes and clothes. Ladies, check out the Prüne outlet for stylish leather bags. There are also lots of other outlets on nearby Av Córdoba.

  The largest concentration of jewelry shops is on Libertad south of Av Corrientes.

  Shopping by Neighborhood

  AThe Center The area on and around Calle Florida offers modern shops selling pretty much everything.

  ACongreso & Tribunales Not known for its shopping, though there are discount bookstores along Av Corrientes.

  ASan Telmo The place for antique stores, with clothing and other boutiques here and there.

  ARetiro Bustling Av Santa Fe starts here and heads through Palermo, lined the whole way with shops of every kind.

  ARecoleta & Barrio Norte Upscale stores selling the city's most expensive threads and leather products live on Av Alvear.

  APalermo Best known for its locally designed clothing stores, with plenty of housewares shops and boutiques.

  ASouth of Palermo Av Pueyrredón near Once train station has cheap goods, many of them imported from China.

  Need to Know

  Opening Hours

  Store hours generally run from 9am or 10am to 8pm or 9pm weekdays, with many open for a few hours on Saturday. Most stores close on Sunday.

  Bargaining

  Bargaining is not acceptable in stores, except possibly for high-price items like jewelry and leather jackets (in some places). Some shops will give a descuento (discount) for cash payments. At street markets you can try negotiating, but keep in mind you may be talking to the artists themselves.

  Be clear about whether the vendor is quoting in pesos or dollars. Always check your change before walking away.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  El Ateneo Grand Splendid Spectacular bookstore housed in a former theater.

  Elementos Argentinos Fair-trade, hand-woven rugs and blankets.

  Lo de Joaquín Alberdi A wine lover's paradise; offers tastings too.

  Gil Antiguedades Gorgeous vintage clothes are the star here, though there are objets too.

  Autoría Ingenious, edgy, high-quality art and accessories, with an emphasis on Argentine designers' work.

  Best for Clothes

  Rapsodia At times exotic clothing utilizing various genres and different textiles.

  Juana de Arco Frilly, silky, cute, sexy and very feminine items for the girl inside every woman.

  Hermanos Estebecorena Cutting-edge, creative and stylish clothes for men.

  Bolivia Metrosexual designs for men who aren't afraid of patterns and pastels.

  Punto Sur Dozens of designers stock the racks here with awesome, creative clothing.

  Best for Souvenirs

  Feria de San Telmo Everything goes, multi-block street fair selling anything you can think of.

  Arte y Esperanza Fair-trade Argentine souvenirs handmade by Argentina’s indigenous peoples.

  Harapos Patagonia Woolen goods, alpaca jewelry, wood and ceramics from Patagonia.

  Best for Gifts

  Materia Urbana Funky things such as leather animal desk accessories and wood jewelry.

  Autoría Creative, high-quality and well-priced contemporary items made by local designers.

  L'Ago Kitschy home decor including colorful metal mate sets, paper lamps and vintage-look pillows.

  Calma Chicha Cow- and sheepskin rugs, fun tablecloths, leather bags and more.

  Best for Books

  El Ateneo Gran Splendid One of the world's most impressive bookstores is housed in a former theater.

  Walrus Books A terrific range of new and used books, plus Argentine classics translated into English.

  Libros del Pasaje Arty books and a cafe, too.

  2Sports & Activities

  When it comes to spectator sports, only one thing really matters to most porteños – fútbol
(soccer). If you go to a game – or even watch one on TV – you’ll witness human passion to the core. But other spectator sports also exist in Buenos Aires. And for those who'd rather play than watch, you'll have opportunities to run, bike, swim and even rock climb – though some activities will be harder to seek out than others.

  Spectator Sports

  Fútbol

  Fútbol is a national obsession, and witnessing a live game is an integral part of the BA experience. This is no amateur league – Argentina’s national team won the World Cup in both 1978 and 1986 (one of only eight nations to have ever won the cup). The men’s team also walked away with gold at the 2004 and 2008 summer Olympics. And Lionel Messi, currently Argentina’s most famous player, has won FIFA’s World Player of the Year (or Ballon d'Or) award five times – from 2009 to 2012 and again in 2015.

  Argentines are avid fans of the sport, and on game day (and there are many) you’ll see TVs everywhere tuned to the soccer channels. Cheers erupt when goals are scored and after a big win cars sporting team flags go honking by – especially around the Obelisco.

  For more information on Argentine fútbol, see www.futbolargentino.com and www.afa.org.ar.