Lonely Planet Laos Read online




  Laos

  Contents

  Plan Your Trip

  Welcome to Laos

  Laos' Top 10

  Need to Know

  If You Like

  Month by Month

  Itineraries

  Outdoor Adventures

  Regions at a Glance

  On The Road

  Luang Prabang & Around

  Luang Prabang & Around Highlights

  Luang Prabang

  City Walk

  Wat Wisunarat (Wat Visoun) Area

  Around Luang Prabang

  Pak Ou Caves

  Tat Kuang Si

  Tat Sae

  Ban Phanom & Beyond

  Northern Laos

  Phonsavan

  Around Phonsavan

  Sam Neua (Xam Neua)

  Around Sam Neua

  Sam Neua to Vietnam

  Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw

  Vieng Thong (Muang Hiam)

  Nong Khiaw

  Muang Ngoi Neua (Ban Ngoi Kao)

  Around Muang Ngoi Neua

  Muang Khua

  Phongsali ()

  Around Phongsali

  Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai)

  Around Udomxai

  Muang La

  Boten

  Luang Namtha (Namtha)

  Around Luang Namtha

  Muang Sing

  Xieng Kok

  Huay Xai

  Around Huay Xai

  Pak Beng

  Hongsa

  Sainyabuli (Sayaboury)

  Pak Lai

  Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around

  Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around Highlights

  Vientiane

  Cycling Tour

  Around Vientiane

  Phu Khao Khuay NPA

  Ban Na

  Ban Hat Khai

  Tat Xai, Pha Xai & Tat Leuk

  Ang Nam Ngum & Around

  Vang Vieng

  Motorcycling

  Vang Vieng towards Luang Prabang

  Central Laos

  Paksan

  Pak Kading

  Ban Khoun Kham (Ban Na Hin)

  Tham Kong Lor

  Lak Sao

  Tha Khaek

  Around Tha Khaek

  Savannakhet

  Around Savannakhet

  Dong Phu Vieng NPA

  Phu Xang Hae NPA

  Sepon (Xepon) & the Ho Chi Minh Trail

  Southern Laos

  Southern Laos Highlights

  Pakse

  Around Pakse

  Don Kho & Ban Saphai

  Phou Xieng Thong NPA

  Champasak

  Around Champasak

  Don Daeng

  Wat Phu World Heritage Area

  Uo Moung (Tomo Temple)

  Kiet Ngong

  Se Pian NPA

  Bolaven Plateau Region

  Paksong Area

  Tat Lo

  Salavan

  Around Salavan

  Sekong

  Around Sekong

  Motorcycle Tour

  Attapeu

  Around Attapeu

  Si Phan Don

  Don Khong (Khong Island)

  Don Det & Don Khon

  Understand

  Understand Laos

  Laos Today

  History

  People & Culture

  Environment

  Survive

  Directory AZ

  Accommodation

  Bargaining

  Climate

  Customs Regulations

  Electricity

  Embassies & Consulates

  Etiquette

  Food & Drink

  Insurance

  Internet Access

  Legal Matters

  LGBTI Travellers

  Money

  Opening Hours

  Post

  Public Holidays

  Safe Travel

  Shopping

  Telephone

  Time

  Toilets

  Tourist Information

  Travellers with Disabilities

  Travel with Children

  Visas

  Volunteering

  Women Travellers

  Transport

  Getting There & Away

  Getting Around

  Health

  Before You Go

  In Laos

  Language

  Behind the Scenes

  Our Writers

  Special Features

  River Life

  Welcome to Laos

  A land of the lotus eaters amid the bloated development of its neighbours, Laos brings together the best of Southeast Asia in one bite-sized destination.

  An Authentic Asia

  Laos retains many of the traditions that have disappeared in a frenzy of development elsewhere in the region. It's hard to believe somnolent Vientiane is an Asian capital, and there's a timeless quality to rural life, where stilt houses and paddy fields look like they are straight out of a movie set. Magical Luang Prabang bears witness to hundreds of saffron-robed monks gliding through the streets every morning in a call to alms, one of the region’s iconic images. Intrepid travellers will discover a country untainted by mass tourism and Asia in slow motion – this is Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Lao PDR), or ‘please don’t rush’ as the locals like to joke.

  A Kaleidoscope of People

  Laos is one of the most ethnically diverse countries in the region, reflecting its geographic location as a crossroads of Asia. The hardy Hmong people live off the land in remote mountain communities of the north, remote Kahu and Alak communities of the south have the last remaining traditional face tattoos, and the Katang villages of central Laos sleep with the spirits of the forest. Whether it is the cities of the lowlands or the remote villages of the highlands, Laos offers some wonderful opportunities for local interaction.

  Fifty Shades of Green

  With its dark and brooding jungle, glowing emerald rice fields, and the glistening tea leaves that blanket the mountains, the landscape in Laos changes shades of green like a chameleon. But it's not just the luscious landscapes that are green: when it comes to ecotourism, Laos is leading the way in Southeast Asia. Protected areas predominate in remote areas of the country, and community-based trekking combines these spectacular natural attractions with the chance to experience the 'real Laos' with a village homestay.

  Eclectic Asia

  Travellers rave about Laos for a reason. Adventure seekers can lose themselves in underground river caves, on jungle ziplines or while climbing karsts. Nature enthusiasts can take a walk on the wild side and spot exotic animals such as gibbons or elephants. Culture lovers can explore ancient temples and immerse themselves in Lao spiritual life. Foodies can spice up their lives with a Lao cooking class or go gourmand in the French-accented cities. And if all this sounds a little too strenuous, then unwind with a spa session or yoga class. Laos has something for everyone.

  Hot air balloon over the Nam Song, Vang Vieng | RAY HEMS/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO ©

  Why I Love Laos

  By Nick Ray, Writer

  I first came to Laos as a backpacker in 1995 and quickly succumbed to the natural charms of the landscape, not to mention ice-cold Beerlao overlooking the Mekong River. Fast forward more than two decades and Laos still delivers adventures. On my latest visit I explored the pristine province of Khammuan, took a trip into the underworld of Tham Kong Lor, got a buzz motorbiking the Loop, and spent time trawling the authentic eateries and lively bars of Vientiane, Laos' underrated capital. A travel tonic to slake your thirst for the real Asia, Laos will leave a lasting impression long after you return home.

  Laos' Top 10

  Luang Prabang

  Bordered
by the Mekong River the Nam Khan (Khan River), this timeless city of temples is the stuff of travel legends: rich in royal history, saffron-clad monks, stunning river views, world-class cuisine and some of the best boutique accommodation in the region. Hire a bike and explore the tropical peninsula’s backstreets, take a cooking class or just ease back with a restful massage at one of the many affordable spas. Prepare to adjust your timetable and stay a little longer than expected.

  Wat Ho Pha Bang, Royal Palace museum | AVIGATOR THAILAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Top Experiences

  Vang Vieng

  The riverine jewel in Laos' karst country, Vang Vieng sits under soaring cliffs beside the Nam Song (Song River) and is the undisputed adventure capital of Laos. Since the party crowd moved on, tranquillity reigns again with more family-oriented visitors dropping in to soak up such well-organised activities as hot-air ballooning, trekking, caving and climbing. And don't forget the original draw: tubing down the river. Where once there were only budget guesthouses and same-same traveller cafes, now they have been joined by smarter boutique hotels and restaurants serving delicious food.

  Hot air balloon over the Nam Song | THANACHET MAVIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Top Experiences

  Si Phan Don

  Laos’ hammock-flopping mecca has been catering to weary travellers for years. While these tropical islands bounded by the waters of the Mekong are best known as a happy haven for catatonic sun worshippers, more active souls are spoilt for choice. Between tubing and cycling through paddy fields, grab a kayak, spot rare Irrawaddy dolphins, and then round off your day with a sunset boat trip.

  SEBASTIAN VOIGT/500PX ©

  Top Experiences

  Vientiane

  Meandering along the banks of the Mekong, Vientiane is surely Southeast Asia's most languid capital. The wide streets are bordered by tamarind trees and the narrow alleys conceal French villas, Chinese shophouses and glittering wats. The city brews a heady mix of street vendors, saffron-clad monks, fine Gallic cuisine, boutique hotels and a healthy vibe that sees visitors slinking off for spa treatments and turning their time to yoga and cycling. It may not have Luang Prabang’s looks, but Vientiane has a certain charm all of its own.

  Spa treatment in Vientiane | MATTHEW WAKEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Experiences

  Trekking & Homestays

  Laos is famous for its wide range of community-based treks, many of which include a traditional homestay for a night or more. Trekking is possible all over the country, but northern Laos is one of the most popular areas. Trekking around Phongsali is considered some of the most authentic in Laos and involves the chance to stay with the colouful Akha people. Luang Namtha is the most accessible base for ecotreks in the Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA), one of the best-known trekking spots in the Mekong region.

  Akha woman near Luang Namtha | HADYNYAH/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Experiences

  Vieng Xai Caves

  This is history writ large in stone. An area of outstanding natural beauty, Vieng Xai was home to the Pathet Lao communist leadership during the US bombing campaign of 1964–73. Beyond the breathtaking beauty of the natural caves, it is the superb audio tour that really brings the experience alive. When the bombers buzz overhead to a soundtrack of Jimi Hendrix you'll be ducking for cover in the Red Prince's lush garden.

  DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Experiences

  Gibbon Experience

  Whiz high above the forest floor attached to a zipline. These brilliantly engineered cables – some more than 500m long – span forest valleys in the lush Bokeo Nature Reserve (habitat of the black-crested gibbon and Asiatic tiger). Some of the proceeds go toward protecting the eponymous endangered primate and guides are former poachers turned rangers. Zip into and bed down in vertiginously high tree houses by night, listening to the call of the wild. The Gibbon Experience is Laos’ premier wildlife and adventure playground. is Laos’ premier wildlife and adventure playground. More ziplining opportunities await around Vang Vieng and on the Bolaven Plateau.

  TIM GERARD BARKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Experiences

  Tham Kong Lor

  Imagine your deepest nightmare: the snaggle-toothed mouth of a river cave beneath a towering limestone mountain, the boatman in his rickety longtail taking you into the heart of darkness. Puttering beneath the cathedral-high ceiling of stalactites in this extraordinary 7.5km-long underworld in remote Khammuan Province is an awesome experience. You'll be very glad to see the light at the other end of the tunnel. The village of Ban Kong Lor is now the most convenient base for visiting the cave, after an explosion of guesthouses and small resorts in the last few years.

  VINCENT JARY/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Experiences

  River Trips

  River trips are a major feature of travel through Laos. One of the most popular connects Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, the gateway to the Golden Triangle, via Pak Beng. From local boats to luxury cruises, there are options to suit every budget, including floating through sleepy Si Phan Don in the far south. Beyond the Mekong, many important feeder rivers such as the Nam Ou and Nam Tha connect places as diverse as Nong Khiaw and Muang Khua (for Phongsali). As well as boat trips, it is also possible to kayak some of these regional rivers in multiday activity trips.

  Nam Ou, Nong Khiaw | ASIANDREAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Experiences

  Wat Phu Champasak

  Not as majestic as the temples of Angkor, but just as mysterious, this mountainside Khmer ruin has both the artistry and the setting to impress. Once part of an important city, it now sits forlorn on the side of Phu Pasak. You'll discover something special at each level as you walk up to the summit where the views are vast and the crowds are thin. Other related ruins can be found in the rice paddies and forest down below.

  PAUL BIRIS/GETTY IMAGES/MOMENT OPEN ©

  Need to Know

  Currency

  Lao kip (K)

  Language

  Lao

  Visas

  Thirty-day tourist visas are readily available on arrival at international airports and most land borders.

  Money

  The official national currency in Laos is the Lao kip (K). Although only kip is legally negotiable in everyday transactions, in reality three currencies are used for commerce: kip, Thai baht (B) and US dollars (US$).

  Mobile Phones

  Roaming is possible in Laos but is generally expensive. Local SIM cards and unlocked mobile phones are readily available.

  Time

  Indochina Time (GMT/UTC plus seven hours)

  When to Go

  High Season (Nov–Mar)

  APleasant temperatures in much of Laos, though it's cold in the mountains.

  AThe best all-round time to visit.

  ABook accommodation in advance during the peak Christmas and New Year period.

  Shoulder Season (Jul & Aug)

  AWet in most parts of Laos with high humidity, but the landscapes are emerald green.

  APopular time for European tourists to visit from Italy or Spain, plus backpacking students with a long summer break.

  Low Season (Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct)

  AApril and May brings the hot season to Laos when the thermostat hits 40°C and visitors wilt.

  ASeptember and October can be very wet, but there are some incredible cloud formations to accompany the deluge.

  Useful Websites

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/laos) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Ecotourism Laos (www.ecotourismlaos.com) Information about the Lao environs, focusing on trekking and other ecotourism activities.

  lao*miao* (www.laomeow.blogspot.com) Up-to-date transportation details, mostly regarding northern Laos.

  Lao National Tourism Administration (www.tourismlaos.org) Mostly up-to-date travel information from the government.

  RFA (Radio Free Asia; www.rfa.org/english/news/laos) U
nbiased, censorship-free news on Laos from Asia-based journalists.

  Important Numbers

  To dial listings from outside Laos, dial your international access code, the country code and then the number (minus ‘0’, which is used when dialling domestically).