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Going to a Game

  In a land where Maradona is God, going to see a fútbol game can be a religious experience. The superclásico match between the Boca Juniors and River Plate has been called the number-one sporting event to see before you die, but even the less-celebrated games will give you an insight into Argentina’s national passion.

  Attending a regular match isn’t too difficult. Keep an eye on the clubs’ websites, which inform when and where tickets will be sold; often they’re sold at the stadium before the game. You'll get a choice between populares (bleachers) and plateas (seats). Avoid the populares, as these can get far too rowdy and sometimes dangerous.

  If you want to see a clásico – a match between two major teams – getting a ticket will be much harder. Plus Boca doesn’t even put tickets for its key matches on sale; all tickets go to socios (members). Instead, you’re better off going with an agency such as Tangol ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4363-6000; www.tangol.com; Florida 971, Suite 31; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C San Martín) or via organizations like www.landingpad.com. It won't be cheap, but it’s much easier (and safer) getting a ticket this way; fake tickets do exist.

  If you want to chance getting your own clásico or superclásico ticket, however, you can always look online at www.buenosaires.craigslist.org or www.mercadolibre.com.ar. And if you’re confident in your bargaining skills, scalpers will always exist.

  Dress down, and try to look inconspicuous when you go. Take only minimum cash and keep your camera close. You probably won’t get in with water bottles, and food and drink in the stadium is meager and expensive. Arrive early to get a good seat and enjoy the insane build-up to the game. And most importantly: don’t wear the opposing team’s colors.

  The following are some of the clubs based in Buenos Aires:

  A Boca Juniors

  A River Plate

  A San Lorenzo

  A Argentinos Juniors ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4551-6887; www.argentinosjuniors.com.ar; Gavilán 2151; g63, 113, 110)

  A Vélez ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4641-5663; www.velezsarsfield.com.ar; Juan B Justo 9200; g166, 8)

  A Huracán ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4911-0757; www.clubahuracan.com.ar; Av Amancio Alcorta 2570; bLínea H Parque Patricios)

  A Club Ferro Carril Oeste ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4431-8282; www.ferrocarriloeste.org.ar; Federico G Lorca 350; bLínea A Primera Junta)

  Basketball

  The basketball scene in Buenos Aires has been picking up significantly since 2002, when Argentina’s men’s team played in the World Basketball Championship in Indianapolis. They only won silver but made history by beating the US ‘Dream Team’ in international competition. Then, with a similar roster, they defeated the US squad again (along with Italy in the finals) to win gold in the 2004 summer Olympics – their first Olympic medal in basketball ever. No team had beaten the Americans in the Olympics since 1992, when pro basketball players were allowed to play. They also won the FIBA Americas Championship in 2011.

  Today BA has several major squads, the most popular being Boca Juniors. You can watch them play in La Boca at Estadio Luis Conde. Other popular basketball teams include Obras Sanitarias and Ferro Carril Oeste.

  Rugby

  Rugby is becoming more popular by the year in Argentina, in part because the country’s national team – Los Pumas – has done well in past years. After placing third at the Rugby World Cup in 2007 (no mean feat), Los Pumas was rated the best rugby team in the Americas. And at the 2011 Rugby World Cup it put in a pretty decent showing.

  In Buenos Aires, the long-running Club Atlético de San Isidro ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.casi.org.ar; Roque Sáenz Peña 499; dSan Isidro) is the capital’s best rugby team; in 1935 it gave birth to its own biggest rival, the San Isidro Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4766-2030; www.sanisidroclub.com.ar; Av Blanco Encalada 404; g60).

  Rugby season runs from April to October; contact the Unión de Rugby de Buenos Aires ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4805-5858; www.urba.org.ar; Pacheco de Melo 2120; h1-9pm Mon & Wed, 10am-6pm Tue & Thu-Fri; bLínea H Las Heras) for current happenings.

  Horse Racing

  Races in BA are held at the Hipódromo Argentino, a grand building designed by French architect Louis Fauré-Dujarric that dates from 1908 and holds up to 100,000 spectators. Race times vary, so check the schedule for exact details. The most important races take place in November, both here and at San Isidro’s famous grass racetrack.

  Polo

  Add Argentina’s history of gauchos and horses to its past British influence, and you’ll understand why the best polo in the world is played right here. The country has dominated the sport for over 70 years, boasting most of polo’s top players. Forget those British princes: the world’s best player is considered to be the handsome Adolfo Cambiaso.

  Matches take place in Buenos Aires from September to mid-November. They culminate in the annual Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo (Argentine Open Polo Championship) – the world’s most prestigious polo tournament – in Palermo's Campo Argentino de Polo. For current information, contact the Asociación Argentina de Polo (www.aapolo.com), which keeps a schedule of polo-related activities throughout the country. To spend a day learning to play polo yourself (outside BA), check out Puesto Viejo (https://puestoviejoestancia.com.ar/).

  Pato

  Of gaucho origins, the polo-like game of pato (literally ‘duck’) takes its name from the original game ball – a live duck encased in a leather bag. The unfortunate fowl has since been replaced by a ball with leather handles, and players no longer face serious injury in what was once a very violent sport.

  For information on pato matches and tournaments (which usually take place 30km outside the city in the Campo Argentino de Pato) contact the Federación Argentina de Pato ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-5271; www.pato.org.ar; Av Rivadavia 717, 7th fl; bLínea A Piedras). The national championships occur in December, and are more centrally located in Palermo’s polo grounds.

  A game of pato | EDUARDO RIVERO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Activities

  Extensive greenery in Palermo provides good areas for recreation, especially on weekends when the ring road around the rose garden is closed to motor vehicles. Recoleta also has grassy parks, but not as extensive. Best of all is the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, an ecological paradise just east of Puerto Madero that might just make you forget you’re in a big city.

  Cycling

  The city’s bike lanes make cycling in the city a safer proposition. Bike paths run along many roads in Parque 3 de Febrero, or head to the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, on the eastern side of Puerto Madero along the coast. This green and tranquil space has some flat dirt paths that are great to bike on. Pick up one of the free city bikes (EcoBici; %0800-333-2424; www.buenosaires.gob.ar/ecobici/sistema-ecobici/turistas; h24hr) or hire one from a tour company such as Biking Buenos Aires or Urban Biking.

  Swimming

  Some upscale hotels have decent-size pools, but they charge hefty prices for nonguests (so hefty you might as well stay there). The fee generally includes gym use, at least. Try the Panamericano Hotel (www.panamericano.us), whose pool has the best view in BA.

  A more economical option is to find a health club with an indoor pool; Megatlon (www.megatlon.com) is a popular gym with many branches. For a more casual environment, especially with kids, head to Parque Norte.

  Tennis

  A few places in BA offer courts, such as Parque Manuel Belgrano ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4807-7879; Salguero 3450; park entry AR$10, court hire per hr AR$60, after 7pm per hr AR$130; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, till 7pm Sat & Sun; g130, 33), in Palermo. Bring your own racket from home if you’re serious about getting in touch with the Nalbandian or del Potro inside you.

  Golf

  BA’s most convenient course is the 18-hole Campo Municipal de Golf ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4772-7261; www.golfpalermo.com; Tornquist 6397; 9/18 holes Tue-Fri AR$40/70, Sat & Sun AR$50/100; h7:30am-5pm Tue-Sun; g130, 160, 34); be sure to reserve your spot in advance. Practice your long shots at the Costa Salguero Driving Range ( GOOGLE
MAP ; %011 4805-4732; http://costasalguerogolf.com; Av Rafael Obligado 1221; 50 balls AR$45; hnoon-10pm Mon, 8am-10pm Tue-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun; g160, 33, 45), which also has a golf store, a cafe and a nine-hole, family-friendly course.

  Horseback Riding

  If you want to get out of town for a few hours and hop on a horse, forget those touristy estancias (ranches) and check out Caballos a la Par (www.caballos-alapar.com). Guided, private rides are given in a provincial park about an hour’s drive from central Buenos Aires, and it’s not just one of those ‘follow-the-horse-in-front’ deals. They'll take you around woodsy lanes and fields, and you’ll have fun learning how to ride and even gallop on the fine horses.

  BA City Government Tours

  The BA city government (https://turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar) offers a number of free neighborhood guided walking tours in English and Spanish, as well as low-cost cycling tours, new rowing excursions in Puerto Madero (free but often booked out months in advance) and even 5km, 8km and 18km 'urban trekking' tours – see the website for the full list of current offerings; most tours require advance booking.

  Sports & Activities by Neighborhood

  APuerto Madero Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur is great for running, bicycling or walking. These activities are also possible along the dikes.

  APalermo Provides most of BA's green spaces, along with tennis and golf courses, running paths and bicycling lanes.

  ABelgrano, Nuñez & the Costanera Norte Head here for the family-friendly swimming complex Parque Norte.

  Need to Know

  AIn October, Buenos Aires' marathon ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.maratondebuenosaires.org; hOct) attracts more than 10,000 runners. The 42km route begins in Palermo and passes some of BA's most iconic sights, including the Obelisco, Plaza de Mayo, La Boca and Puerto Madero.

  ABuenos Aires Fútbol Amigos arranges friendly five-aside soccer games for men and women at pitches in Palermo and Villa Crespo.

  AYoga bunnies should look up Buena Onda Yoga, which runs a range of English-language classes at studios in Palermo, San Telmo and Villa Crespo.

  ABike rentals are available at Palermo's Parque 3 de Febrero (where you can also rent inline skates and pedal boats) and via bike-tour companies.

  AFor water sports including windsurfing, kitesurfing and stand-up paddle, head to Perú Beach north of Buenos Aires near San Isidro.

  ATigre is the jumping-off point for kayaking tours deep inside the delta. Try El Dorado Kayak.

  Best Spectator Sports

  La Bombonera Stadium Boca Juniors' home ground.

  Hipódromo Argentino Glamorous horse-racing track in Palermo.

  Campo Argentino de Polo Hosts some of the most important events in the polo calendar.

  Best Activities

  Buenos Aires Fútbol Amigos Join locals in friendly five-aside soccer games for men and women.

  Biking Buenos Aires American and Argentine guides lead themed bike tours throughout the city.

  Parque Norte Water park with huge shallow pools and a waterslide.

  Buena Onda Yoga Yoga classes taught in English.

  1Tango

  Once a furtive dance relegated to the red-light brothels of early-1900s Buenos Aires, tango has experienced great highs and lows throughout its lifespan. These days, however, the sensual dance is back with a vengeance. Everyone from Seattle to Shanghai is slinking their way down the parquet floor, trying to master those elusive dance steps and the rhythm that make it so damn hard to perfect.

  Professional tango dancers | IGOR BULGARIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Origins

  In the words of its poet laureate Discépolo, the ‘tango is a sad thought you can dance to'. Though the exact origins can’t be pinpointed, the dance is believed to have started in Buenos Aires in the 1880s. Legions of European immigrants, mostly lower-class men, arrived here to seek their fortune. They settled on the capital’s fringes, such as La Boca and Barracas, but missing their motherlands and the women they left behind, sought out cafes and bordellos to ease the loneliness. Here (so the myth goes), these immigrant men danced with each other while they waited for their paramours to become available – women were scarce back then!

  The perceived vulgarity of the dance that mainly belonged to the poor southern barrios was deeply frowned upon by the reigning porteño elites of the plush northern suburbs, but it did manage to influence some brash young members of the upper classes. These rebel jet setters, known as niños bien, took the novelty to Paris and created a craze – a dance that became an acceptable outlet for human desires, expressed on the dance floors of elegant cabarets. The trend spread around Europe and even to the USA, and 1913 was considered by some as ‘the year of the tango'. When the evolved dance, now refined and famous, returned to Buenos Aires, it finally earned the respectability it deserved. And so the golden years of tango began.

  In 1955, however, Argentina became a military state intolerant of artistic or ‘nationalistic’ activities – including the tango, which had been highly popular with the people. Some tango songs were banned, and the dance was forced underground due to curfews and a limit on group meetings. The dance didn’t resurface until 1983, when the junta fell – and once it was back in the open again, it underwent a renaissance. After being constrained by the rigors of military rule, Argentines suddenly wanted to experience new life, be creative and move. The tango became popular once again – and remains so to this day.

  People dancing tango in a plaza | GARY YIM / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Tango for Export: the Shows

  If there’s one thing Buenos Aires isn’t short of it’s tango shows. The best known are the expensive, tourist-oriented spectacles that are very entertaining and awe-inspiring, and showcase amazing feats of grace and athleticism. However, they are highly glamorized and not what purists consider ‘authentic’ tango.

  The theatrical shows usually include various tango couples, an orchestra, a couple of singers and possibly some folkloric musicians. They last about 1½ hours and come with a dinner option – the food is usually good. VIP options mean a much higher price tag for better views, meal choices and refreshments. Nearly all of them require reservations; some offer modest online discounts and pick-up from your hotel. (Many hotels will book shows for you – which is fine, since sometimes the price is similar to what you’d pay at the venue anyway.)

  More modest shows cost far less; some are even free but require you to order a meal or drink at the restaurant. If you don’t mind eating there this is a decent deal. For free (or rather, donation) tango, head to San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon – or sometimes other days. Dancers do their thing in the middle of Plaza Dorrego, though you have to stake out a spot early to snag a good view. Another sure bet is weekends on El Caminito in La Boca; some restaurants have couple dancing for customers. Many milongas (dance halls) also have good, affordable shows.

  One thing to note: nearly all tango shows are touristy by nature. They’ve been sensationalized to make them more exciting for observers. ‘Authentic’ tango (which happens at milongas) is a very subtle art, primarily done for the pleasure of the dancers. It’s not something to be observed so much as experienced, and not particularly interesting for casual spectators. Going to a milonga just to watch isn’t all that cool, either: folks are there to dance. So feel free to see a more flashy tango show and enjoy those spectacular high kicks – be wowed like the rest of the crowd.

  If you like listening to live tango music, head to Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso. It’s one of BA’s best live-music venues, so don’t expect any dancing.

  A tango show | VBMC327 / BUDGET TRAVEL ©

  Classes

  Tango classes are available just about everywhere, from youth hostels to general dance academies to cultural centers to nearly all milongas (dance halls). Even a few cafes and tango shows offer them.

  There are also several tango schools in town, including DNI Tango.

  Private teachers are also ubiquitous; there are so many good ones that it’s best to a
sk someone you trust for a recommendation.

  Couples taking tango lessons | JAVIER PIERINI / GETTY IMAGES ©

  The Real Tango: Milongas

  Tango’s popularity is booming at both amateur and professional levels, and among all ages and classes. And milongas are the dance events where people strut their stuff. The atmosphere at these venues can be modern or historical, casual or traditional. Most have tango DJs that determine musical selections, but a few utilize live orchestras. The dance floor is surrounded by many tables and chairs, and there's often a bar to the side where you can keep hydrated.

  At a proper, established milonga, choosing an adequate partner involves many levels of hidden codes, rules and signals that dancers must follow. After all, no serious bailarina (female dancer; the male equivalent is a bailarín) wants to be caught out dancing with someone stepping on her toes (and expensive tango heels). In fact, some men considering asking an unknown woman to dance will do so only after the second song, to avoid being stuck for the three to five songs that make a session. These sessions (known as tandas) alternate between tango, vals (the Argentine version of the waltz) and milonga; they’re followed by a cortina (a short break when non-tango music is played). It’s considered polite to dance an entire tanda with any partner, so if you are given a curt gracias after just one song, consider that partner unavailable for the rest of the night.

  Not easy to describe, tango needs to be seen and experienced for its full effect. The upper bodies are traditionally held upright and close, with faces almost touching. The man’s hand is pressed against the woman’s back, guiding her, with his other hand and one of hers held together and out. The lower body does most of the work. The woman swivels her hips, her legs alternating in short or wide sweeps and quick kicks, sometimes between the man’s legs. The man guides, a complicated job since he must flow with the music, direct the woman, meld with her steps and avoid other dancers, all at once. He’ll add his own fancy pivoting moves, and together the couple flows in communion with the music. Pauses and abrupt directional changes punctuate the dance. It’s a serious business that takes a good amount of concentration, so while dancing the pair often wear hard expressions. Smiling and chatting are reserved for the breaks between songs.