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  At these grand tea institutions, you won’t just be sipping Earl Grey – with an array of crustless sandwiches, sweets and pastries, the experience is more like a full meal. The grandmother of the tea scene is the lavish L’Orangerie at the Alvear Palace Hotel, where white-gloved service and impossibly elegant little cakes await guests fond of old-fashioned pleasantries. For something more casual but endlessly charming, go for a cuppa at El Gato Negro.

  Mate | ANETA_GU / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Eating by Neighborhood

  AThe Center Many restaurants here cater to the business crowd, with quick takeout and power lunches.

  APuerto Madero Upscale – and some say overpriced – restaurants here offer great dockside atmosphere and more traditional cuisine.

  ACongreso & Tribunales BA's political center, this neighborhood has Spanish cuisine, along with the odd Korean or Peruvian gem.

  ASan Telmo Traditionally has supported many parrillas, though gentrification over the years translates to wider horizons.

  ARecoleta & Barrio Norte BA's most exclusive neighborhood means expensive restaurants; those near the cemetery cater to tourists.

  APalermo Ground zero for the city's most creative and ethnically diverse dining scene.

  Cooking Courses

  Taking a small-group cooking class or private class is probably the best option for short-term visitors who don’t speak Spanish. At Norma Soued you can learn how to cook Argentine dishes such as empanadas, traditional stews and alfajores (traditional cookies).

  If you have time, speak Spanish and are considering making cooking a profession, try the highly regarded Instituto Argentino de Gastronomía (IAG; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4816-1414; www.iag.com.ar; Montevideo 968; bLínea D Callao) or Mausi Sebess ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4791-4355; www.mausi.com; Av Maipú 594, Vicente López; dAristóbulo del Valle), located in BA’s suburb of Vicente López.

  Steak Outside the Box

  Going to a parrilla is probably on every BA visitor's to-do list, but if you want to eat meat in a different way, try these options:

  Argentine Experience Learn the meaning of local hand gestures, the story of Argentina's beef and how to make empanadas and alfajores. Plus you'll eat a supremely tender steak.

  Steaks by Luis An upscale asado experience where you'll nibble on cheese and sip boutique wine while watching large hunks of meat being grilled.

  Parrilla Tour Meet your knowledgeable guide at a restaurant for a choripan (traditional sausage sandwich), then an empanada. You'll finish at a local parrilla.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  Café San Juan Tattooed celebrity chef serves up fabulously tasty dishes.

  Proper Innovative dishes cooked in a wood-fired oven.

  La Carnicería BA's first boutique parrilla.

  Chila Fine-dining dishes prepared by chef Soledad Nardelli.

  Best by Budget

  $

  Chan Chan Colorful, casual Peruvian eatery with great ceviche (seafood cured in citrus).

  Chori New gourmet choripan joint lifting the humble sausage to new heights.

  NoLa Cajun cuisine in a casual gastro-pub setting.

  $$

  Gran Dabbang Creative fusion dishes with truly global inflections.

  Las Pizarras Delicious, very creative dishes that change daily.

  El Refuerzo Bar Almacen Popular San Telmo eatery serving bistro-style meals.

  $$$

  Aramburu Molecular gastronomy – not for everyone, but for some it's a peak experience.

  Proper Flavorsome plates cooked in a wood-fired oven.

  Elena One of the best meals you'll have in BA.

  Best Steak

  Don Julio Great traditional steakhouse with classy service.

  La Carnicería Quality meat in a butcher-themed dining room.

  La Cabrera Overly popular and touristy – but worth the wait.

  Parrilla Peña No-nonsense, well-priced, excellent meats.

  El Desnivel Long-running, touristy and still reasonably priced.

  Best Seafood

  La Mar Cebicheria Quality ceviche that's making waves on the BA food scene.

  Casal de Catalunya Spanish restaurant with an old-time atmosphere.

  Chan Chan Great-value Peruvian eatery in Congreso.

  Best Closed-Door Restaurants

  i Latina Colombian cuisine in Villa Crespo.

  Casa Coupage Tasting menus with expertly paired wines.

  Casa Felix Creative dishes made utilising home-grown herbs and vegetables.

  Casa Saltshaker Shared meals at Chef Dan Perlman's home.

  Best Burgers

  Burger Joint The original and the best, located in Palermo.

  Big Sur Juicy burgers and a range of street-food-style alternatives.

  180 Burger Bar Downtown burger joint that's busy at lunch.

  Best Italian

  Siamo nel Forno Awesome Naples-style, thin-crust pizza.

  Il Matterello Famous for its exceptional pastas and sauces.

  Filo Trendy restaurant with a variety of Italian specialties.

  Best Vegetarian

  Artemisia Airy corner restaurant serving a variety of vegetarian meals.

  Hierbabuena Popular San Telmo eatery on beautiful Av Caseros.

  Bio Sophisticated and very tasty vegetarian dishes.

  Granix Modern cafeteria catering to meat-weary office workers.

  Best Asian

  Sunae Asian Cantina Dishes from all over Asia prepared by chef Christina Sunae.

  Sudestada Consistently good, Asian-fusion cuisine that can be spicy.

  Green Bamboo Vietnamese-style foods in BA-trendy dining room.

  Furaibo Japanese ramen and other delicacies in authentic surroundings.

  Comedor Nikkai A good place for sushi, tempura and teriyaki.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Buenos Aires’ nightlife is legendary. What else could you expect from a country where dinner rarely starts before 10pm? In some neighborhoods, finding a good sports bar, classy cocktail lounge, atmospheric old cafe or upscale wine bar is as easy as walking down the street. And dancers will be in heaven, as BA boasts spectacular nightclubs showcasing top-drawer DJs.

  The Local Scene

  Porteños rarely imbibe to the point of drunkenness – it's just not cool – but they do like to go out drinking, especially in groups, and always stay up late. Walk into any corner bar or cafe in the city and you’ll see groups of friends or families sitting around a table, sipping tiny white cups of espresso or splitting a bottle of Quilmes (a popular local beer). More fashionable bars, pubs and breweries draw more of a mixed crowd of party-going tourists, with style-conscious men trying to impress their dates or girlfriends celebrating a special occasion.

  How to handle the late-night scene like a porteño? If you're going out clubbing (some clubs open at 2am), take a nap after dinner and go easy on the booze – it will help you avoid conking out too early.

  What to Drink

  Wine

  By now you’ve probably heard: Argentine wines are world-class. Most famous is malbec, that dark, robust plum-flavored wine that has solidly stomped the region of Mendoza on every oenophile’s map (the Mendoza region produces 60% of the country’s wine). But Argentina has other fine varietals that are very worthy of a sip or three – fresh torrontés, fruity bonarda and earthy pinot noir.

  So which to try? They say there’s a perfect Argentine wine for every occasion and a good vinoteca (wine boutique) will help you find it. In Palermo, try Lo de Joaquín Alberdi; in San Telmo there's Vinotango. Aldo's Restoran & Vinoteca is a restaurant that sells wines at retail prices – even when you eat there.

  Supermarket selections are usually adequate, though you miss out on the tailored advice. Among the mainstay brands are Norton, Trapiche, Zuccardi and Santa Julia, with different lines that cater to every price range. Spend a bit more to try the elegant Rutini (from Bodega La Rural) or Luigi Bosca.

  For informal wine tastings, inquire at Pain et Vin
, a casual wine and bread shop. Bar du Marché is a low-key bistro offering 50 wines by the glass, while Gran Bar Danzón is an upscale lounge-restaurant that also has a good selection of wines by the glass.

  Many puertas cerradas (closed-door) restaurants offer fine wines with their meals; Casa Coupage, run by an Argentine sommelier couple, is especially wine-oriented.

  Mate

  Mate (mah-teh) is Argentina's unofficial national beverage. More than a simple drink such as tea or coffee, mate is more like an elaborate ritual shared among family and friends.

  There's an informal etiquette to preparing and drinking mate. The cebador (server) fills the gourd with yerba, then pours in very hot water. Each participant drinks the gourd dry, then the cebador refills it and hands it to the next person. Germaphobes beware: the bombilla (a silvery straw with built-in filter), used to sip the mate, is shared by everyone.

  An invitation to drink mate is a cultural treat you shouldn’t turn down, though it’s definitely an acquired taste. The tea is grassy, bitter and very hot; adding sugar can help. Saying ‘gracias’ is a sign you want to stop drinking. And remember not to hold the mate too long before passing it on – it's not a microphone.

  Because it is such a personal ritual, not many restaurants offer mate on the menu – but a few do, so try it if you can.

  Beer, Coffee & Water

  If Argentina has a national beer, it’s Quilmes. Order a porrón and you’ll get a half-liter bottle, or a chopp and you’ll get a frosty mug of draft.

  Argentines love their café con leche (coffee with milk). An espresso with a drop of milk is a café cortado. Black and herbal teas are also commonly available.

  In Buenos Aires, the agua de la canilla (tap water) is drinkable. In restaurants, however, most people order bottled mineral water – ask for agua con gas (with bubbles) or agua sin gas (without). In older, more traditional restaurants, carbonated water in a spritzer bottle (un sifón de soda) is great for drinking, though Argentines often mix it with cheap wine.

  Where to Drink

  Cafes

  Cafes are an integral part of porteño life, and you shouldn’t miss popping into one of these beloved hangouts for an afternoon break. Many cafes are old classics that have been around for more than a hundred years, and undoubtedly will take you back in time. Others are contemporary or bohemian joints with sidewalk tables – perfect spots to take a load off while sightseeing or to delve into Borges’ short stories at a corner table.

  Most cafes serve all meals and everything in between (including a late-night snack).

  Las Violetas | HUGHES HERVÉ / AGEFOTOSTOCK ©

  Bars

  Bars abound in every neighborhood of Buenos Aires, and they come in all shapes, sizes and styles. You can choose from sports bars, cocktail lounges, Irish pubs, microbreweries, local holes-in-the-wall and more. Many of the city’s upscale restaurants and hotels also have lively bars worth a visit.

  Most bars serve beer, hard alcohol and wine, plus coffee and juice. Some make cocktails, and many offer a fair range of finger foods or even main dishes. Microbreweries and beer bars have taken off in the last few years, and you'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to the hoppy stuff.

  Younger travelers and backpackers looking to barhop in a group should check out Buenos Aires Pub Crawl (%011-5257-0897, 011-3678-0170; www.pubcrawlba.com; AR$150).

  Clubbing

  Buenos Aires is famous for its boliches (nightclubs). Every weekend – and even on some weeknights – the city’s clubs come alive with beautiful people moving to electronic and house music. Some of the most impressive nightlife hot spots are located in grandiose restored theaters, warehouses or factories – or perched on the banks of the Río de la Plata where party-goers can watch the sun rise over the water as the festivities wind down. Clubs are spread out over the city, with main clusters in Palermo and on the Costanera Norte.

  Drinking & Nightlife by Neighborhood

  AThe Center Irish pub knock offs cater to the business crowd, though there are several good cafes and clubs.

  ACongreso & Tribunales This neighborhood, the political center of BA, has a few interesting bars and cafes.

  ASan Telmo Gentrified San Telmo is home to many classy modern spots mixing it up with a few old classics.

  ARetiro A wide choice of drinking holes attracts business people during the day and into the evening, and the traveler/expat crowd at night.

  ARecoleta Across from the cemetery is a two-block strip of restaurants, cafes and bars with great patios.

  APalermo BA's hippest nightlife is located here. Las Cañitas, a sub-neighborhood, is also very lively.

  ASouth of Palermo As Palermo becomes more expensive, these neighborhoods are attracting their own attention.

  Gay & Lesbian Buenos Aires

  Despite the fact that Argentina is a Catholic country, Buenos Aires is one of the world's top gay destinations, with dedicated hostels and guesthouses, bars and nightclubs. In 2002 BA became the first Latin American city to legalize same-sex civil unions, and in July 2010 Argentina became the first Latin American country to legalize same-sex marriage. Today, the city is home to South America's largest gay pride parade, as well as a dedicated tango festival.

  An especially gay-friendly accommodations is Lugar Gay, a casual guesthouse that also acts as an information center.

  Check out the gay bars Sitges, Flux and Pride Cafe. The best nightclubs are Glam, Rheo at Crobar and Amerika. A long-running lesbian bar is Bach Bar.

  Casa Brandon is an art gallery/cultural center. And for a fun night of guided drinking and partying, there’s Out & About Pub Crawl (%011-5257-0897; www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com/buenosaires/; AR$200; h10pm Sat).

  Finally, gay tango classes and milongas (events) are given at La Marshall at El Beso and Tango Queer.

  Good general websites are www.thegayguide.com.ar and www.nighttours.com/buenosaires.

  Need to Know

  Opening Hours

  Bars Vary widely depending on location and clientele, but most are usually open from the evening into the early-morning hours.

  Cafes Usually from around 6am or 7am to 2am or 3am.

  Clubs From 2am to dawn.

  Door Policies

  All clubs have bouncers. Dress well – smart casual is good enough at most clubs. You can also sign up in advance via online reservation forms that some clubs keep; this sometimes gets you in more easily and/or offers discounts.

  Resources

  Many newspapers have entertainment supplements published on Friday. Also check www.vuenosairez.com (in Spanish) and www.thebubble.com (in English) for current happenings.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  Florería Atlántico Look for this cocktail bar in the basement of a flower shop.

  LAB Turning coffee-making into an art form.

  On Tap Some of the best local breweries on tap.

  Los Galgos Old-school neighborhood bar transformed in chic cocktail joint.

  Benaim Fabulous beer garden and craft beers.

  Best Cocktail Bars

  Florería Atlántico 'Secret' basement bar located inside a flower shop.

  Verne Fancy drinking hole with awesome cocktails and smoking patio.

  Frank's Elegant speakeasy with classic cocktails; enter via the telephone booth.

  Los Galgos Stop by for an expertly mixed vermouth cocktail.

  Milión Glamorous setting in a lovely mansion with an elegant garden.

  Best Craft Beer

  On Tap Successful craft-beer bar with five branches in BA.

  Bluedog Palermo bar selling beers brewed by some of BA's best local breweries.

  Benaim Craft ales served from a caravan in the beer garden.

  Antares Argentina's original artisan brewery, from Mar del Plata.

  Buller Brewing Company Recoleta microbrewery with six kinds of beer.

  Cossab Dedicated beer bar that boasts over 50 beers.

  Best Cafes

  Las Violetas BA's most beautiful cafe
, with stained-glass awnings and afternoon tea.

  LAB Serious coffee shop serving expertly prepared brews.

  El Gato Negro Aromatic tea shop with a gorgeous wooden interior.

  Bar Británico Classic San Telmo cafe overlooking Parque Lezama.

  Café Tortoni Very historic, very scenic and very touristy – but a classic that can't be ignored.

  Best Gay Hot Spots

  Glam Casual yet very sexy club in an old mansion.

  Crobar Saturday night's Rheo is the place to be.

  Amerika Rough and tumble, with all-you-can-drink nights.

  Pride Cafe Casual San Telmo coffee shop.

  Best Clubs

  Niceto Club Best for its raucous Thursday-night, over-the-top burlesque show.

  Club Museum Party in a building designed by Eiffel.

  Crobar Electronica, Latin beats and more at this perennially popular Palermo club.

  Kika Draws Tuesday-night crowds with its well-known 'Hype' party.

  Best Museum Cafes

  Museo Evita Restaurante Excellent patio cafe-restaurant with sophisticated cuisine.

  Fundación Proa Fancy cafe with awesome rooftop terrace offering La Boca views.

  MALBA Not cheap, but a nice atmosphere and good people-watching.