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  El BahjaMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 13 51; 24 Rue Bani Marine; mains Dh35-45; hnoon-11pm)

  Serving up filling portions of kefta (meatballs) and Moroccan staples to a steady stream of hungry local workers and travellers, El Bahja is a stalwart of the Djemaa el-Fna scene. The food here isn't going to knock your socks off, but it's always dependable, good value and fresh.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Dar CherifaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 64 63; 8 Derb Chorfa Lakbir; hnoon-7pm; W)

  Ring the doorbell to be admitted into this serene late-15th-century Saadian riad. Tea, juice and saffron coffee are served on ultra-comfy yellow sofas in a courtyard framed by soaring blush-pink pillars topped with intricate cedar lintels. Surrounding salons are home to art exhibitions and you'll get great views from the terrace upstairs.

  Meals can be underwhelming, which is a shame as the ambience can't be beaten.

  KechmaraBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 25 32; www.kechmara.com; 3 Rue de La Liberté; h11.30am-1am Mon-Sat; W)

  Want to hang out with the Marrakshi cool kids? Pull up a Saarinen tulip chair at Kechmara after sunset and watch as the bar packs out with a hip, young crowd. The menu (with great burgers) makes this a nice spot for lunch, but it's after dark when the music starts pumping that Kechmara really comes into its own.

  68 Bar à VinBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 97 42; 68 Rue de la Liberté; h7pm-2am)

  A hip and ultra-lively little wine bar that packs in a nice mixed crowd of Moroccans and foreign residents. There are both European and Moroccan wines on offer as well as beer. Staff are on the ball and friendly. When it gets too smoky later in the evening, escape to the patio bench seating out the front.

  PointbarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Rue Abou Hayane Taouhidi; h6pm-late)

  A lot of Marrakesh bars can get a bit smoky, which is why Pointbar with its outdoor front courtyard (which has a retractable roof for colder nights) is, literally, a breath of fresh air. Sit yourself down on a comfy sofa or square pouf, order from the tapas set menu (Dh210) and have a few beers.

  Grand Café de la PosteCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 30 38; cnr Blvd el-Mansour Eddahbi & Rue Imam Malik; h8am-1am; W)

  Restored to its flapper-era glory, this landmark bistro oozes colonial decadence in spades. Prices run high for dinner so skip the food and instead lap up the old-world ambience of dark wood and potted palms with a coffee, Darjeeling tea or wine in hand.

  Café du LivreCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 21 49; www.cafedulivre.com; 44 Rue Tariq ibn Ziyad; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat; W)

  This cafe-bar is a chilled-out spot with draft beer, cushy seating, walls of books to browse and quiz nights. Come for happy hour (6pm to 8pm Tuesday to Saturday) for some of the cheapest beer in town (Dh20 to Dh40) when the after-work crowd descends and it takes on a lively pub atmosphere.

  Riad YimaTEAHOUSE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 39 19 87; www.riadyima.com; 52 Derb Aarjane, Rahba Kedima; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)

  Acclaimed Marrakshi artist and photographer Hassan Hajjaj created this kitsch-crammed tearoom and gallery. Here, all your preconceived notions of Moroccan restaurants and riads, with their Arabian Nights fantasy of candlelit lanterns, arches and belly dancers, are revamped with a tongue-in-cheek sense of humour, accompanied by a traditional glass of mint tea, of course.

  KosybarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 03 24; http://kozibar.tripod.com; 47 Pl des Ferblantiers; hnoon-1am; W)

  The Marrakesh-meets-Kyoto interiors are full of plush, private nooks, but keep heading upstairs to low-slung canvas sofas on the rooftop terrace where storks give cocktail-sippers the once-over from nearby nests. Skip the cardboard-esque sushi and stick with the bar snacks.

  Café ArabeBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 97 28; www.cafearabe.com; 184 Rue Mouassine; h10am-midnight; W)

  Gloat over souq purchases with cocktails on the roof or alongside the Zen zellij courtyard fountain. Prices here are reasonable for such a stylish place, and you can order half bottles of decent Moroccan wines, such as the peppery red Siroua S. The food is bland but the company isn’t – artists and designers flock here.

  KaowaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 33 00 72; 34 Rue Yves Saint Laurent; h8am-8pm; W)

  Breezy Kaowa brings a touch of California cool to the Majorelle gardens. The decked terrace attracts a see-and-be-seen crowd who sip detox smoothies and lunch on huge slices of quiche and leafy salads (Dh75 to Dh90).

  Bô & ZinLOUNGE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 80 12; www.bo-zin.com; Rte de Ourika, Km3.5, Zone Aguedal; h8pm-late)

  If you want to hang out with Marrakesh's beautiful people, this is the place to be. This rather chic place, with its garden area under billowing white sails, is both a lounge-style bar and Thai-Moroccan restaurant (mains Dh175 to Dh260) in the early evening, and laid-back club later at night once the DJs hit the decks.

  L'auberge EspagnoleBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Moulay Ali; h5pm-1am)

  L'auberge Espagnole may not be able to decide if it's a restaurant, tapas bar or sports bar, but heck, who cares? This friendly hang-out, with walls covered in sporting paraphernalia and big-screen TVs does a good line in Spanish tapas as well as imported and local beers.

  555 Famous ClubCLUB

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0678 64 39 40; www.beachclub555.com; Hotel Ushuaia Clubbing, Blvd Mohammed VI, Agdal; entry Dh300; h11pm-5am)

  Most clubbers' venue of choice, 555 has a fun, non-sleazy vibe with tight security on the door, and pumps out house, trance, Europop and RnB until the wee hours. After 1am the scene here can get packed with a good mix of locals and foreign visitors. Women often have free entry until 2am.

  DjelabarCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 12 42; 2 Rue Abou Hanifa, Hivernage; h7pm-3am)

  Lounge-club-restaurant with a cabaret show on the weekends (cue the belly dancers) and plenty of over-the-top kitsch style. The converted stucco-tastic 1940s wedding hall features an eye-popping zellij-backed bar and wall portraits sporting fez-wearing icons from Marilyn Monroe to Michael Jackson. Skip the food and come for a late-night drink.

  3Entertainment

  Djemaa el-Fna is Marrakesh's biggest entertainment venue with its nightly melee of busking street performers and music.

  For a good selection of French and sometimes Moroccan films, check out the program at the Institut Français ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 69 30; www.if-maroc.org/marrakech; 60 Rte de Targa, Guéliz; h9am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat), where films are usually in French or subtitled in French. Guéliz's Le Colisée ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 88 93; Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; orchestra/balcony Dh25/35) cinema sometimes shows films in the original language with subtitles in French.

  7Shopping

  Medina

  Think of the medina's souqs as a shopping mall, but laid out according to a labyrinthine medieval-era plan. Whether you want to spice up your pantry with North African flavours or buy a carpet to add Moroccan-wow to your house, this magpie's nest of treasures is manna for shop-til-you-drop fanatics.

  The main market streets are Souq Semmarine and Souq el-Kebir. If you see something you really like there, fine – but understand prices will be higher. Smaller souqs and souqs dedicated to artisan workshops such as Souq Haddadine (Blacksmith’s Souq), where you can buy direct from the producer, generally have the best deals.

  AnamilARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 48 Derb Sidi Ishak; h9.30am-6pm)

  Step inside this little treasure trove and you're bound to fall in love with at least one beautiful thing. The extremely well collated collection of high-quality ceramics, textiles, soft leather handbags and lamps is full of gorgeous gifts that are a little bit different, and a tad more quirky, than you'll see elsewhere in the souqs.

  Al KawtarARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 56 95; www.alkawtar.o
rg; 3 Derb Zaouia Laftihia, Rue Mouassine; h9.30am-2pm & 3-6.30pm)S

  This nonprofit female collective not only trains women with disabilities in embroidery craft but also sells fine homewares, with a sharp eye for converting traditional needlework into snazzily modern pieces. Pick up a beautiful tablecloth or some gorgeous bed linen here; you know your money's going to a good cause.

  Al NourARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 39 03 23; www.alnour-textiles.com; Rue Laksour 57; h9am-2pm & 3-7pm Sat-Wed)S

  A smart cooperative that's run by local women with disabilities and where you can find household linens minutely embroidered along the edges. You can also get fabulous hand-stitched Marrakesh-mod tunics, dresses and shirts for men, women and kids, and there’s no extra charge for alterations. Purchases pay for salaries, training programs and a childcare centre.

  Souq AbleuhFOOD

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Souq Ableuh)

  Swerve off Djemaa el-Fna to this tiny souq dedicated to olives. Green olives, black olives, purple olives, and olives marinated in spicy harissa paste – it's basically olive heaven.

  Souq HaddadineARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  The blacksmith's souq is full of busy workshops where the sound of the metalworkers' hammers provides a staccato background beat. If you've been tempted by some of those lovely Moroccan lamps for sale throughout the souqs, buying direct here will probably get you the best price.

  Souk CherifaDESIGN

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Souq Kchachbia; h10am-7pm)

  Short-circuit souq fatigue and head straight for this converted fondouq where younger local designers congregate on the upper floor. Pick up funky cushion covers at Sisi Morocco, colourful kaftans and clutches made from carpets at Khmissa, contemporary embroidered linens from La Maison Bahira ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.maisonbahira.com; 15 Souk Cherifa, Souq Kchachbia; h10.30am-7pm), and top quality argan oil, amlou (argan-nut butter) and beauty products at Arganino ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Souk Cherifa, Souq Kchachbia; h10am-7pm).

  Creations PneumatiquesARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 110 Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim; h10am-7pm)S

  To buy crafts directly from Marrakesh’s recycling artisans, head over to Riad Zitoun el-Kedim and check out lanterns, bowls and belts cleverly fashioned from tin cans and tyres. There are several to choose from, but this place (look for the framed Bob Marley poster) has a good selection of Michelin mirrors, inner-tube jewellery boxes, and man-bags with street cred.

  Assouss Cooperative d’ArganeBEAUTY, FOOD & DRINK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 01 25; 94 Rue Mouassine; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Sat-Thu, 9am-noon Fri)S

  This is the Marrakesh retail outlet of a women’s argan cooperative outside Essaouira. The all-women staff will ply you with free samples of amlou (argan-nut butter) and proudly explain how their ultra-emollient cosmetic oil and gourmet dipping oils are made. You’ll find it near Mouassine Fountain.

  Fondouq NamasCARPETS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Derb Sidi Ishak; h10am-7.30pm)

  Several carpet dealers have their shops here with piles and piles of beautiful Berber kilims and hanbels (pileless woven carpets) in a range of prices. There are plenty of Berber blankets and other tribal trappings for those looking to take home something smaller as well. Get your glass of mint tea in hand and start carpet-hunting.

  NaturomCOSMETICS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0673 46 02 09; 213 Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid; h9.30am-8pm Sat-Thu, to noon Fri)

  There are lots of things to like about Naturom, not least its 100% organic certification and the use of pure essences and essential oils (argan, avocado, wheat germ), which ensure that all of the beauty products are completely hypo-allergenic. And with its own medicinal and herbal garden, it has full traceability of all raw materials.

  Dar Chrifa LamraniaART

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0663 47 33 23; 11 Zaouit Lahdar; h10.30am-7pm)

  There are plenty of little art studios dotted around the medina, but this particular one displays some of the more interesting and original paintings by local artists. To find it, head past the Medersa Ali ben Youssef and turn left. It's tucked under the next arch.

  Ensemble ArtisanalARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)

  To get a jump-start on the souqs, come to this government-sponsored showcase across from Cyber Park to glimpse expert artisans at work and see the range of crafts and prices Marrakesh has to offer. The set prices are higher than in the souqs, but it’s hassle-free shopping and the producer gets paid directly.

  Max & JanFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 37 55 70; www.maxandjan.ma; 14 Rue Amesfah; h10am-7pm)

  Quirky jewellery sits alongside vintage kaftans, slouchy active-wear and re-imagined salwar pants inside this funky boutique that puts the wacky and inspired into Moroccan fashion.

  Ville Nouvelle

  Stock up on essentials at either Aswak Assalam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 11 Janvier; h9am-10pm), the nearest decent-sized supermarket to the medina, or the big Carrefour ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Eden Centre, Ave Mohammed V; h9am-11pm), which is in central Guéliz and has an alcohol section and many items (including international brands) hard to find elsewhere.

  33 Rue MajorelleFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 31 41 95; www.33ruemajorelle.com; 33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent; h9.30am-7pm)

  Over 60 designers, mostly from Morocco, are represented here and co-owner Yehia Abdelnour dedicates much of his time to sourcing local maâlems (master craftsmen) who make the majority of what’s on view. Recent finds include super-cool clutches made in vintage upholstery from the Harakat sisters, silk harem pants from couturier Maroc'n Roll and plaited, pop-art charm bracelets from Zinab Chahine.

  Sidi GhanemDESIGN

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sidighanem.net; Rte de Safi; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)

  The industrial district of Sidi Ghanem is where the big names in modern Moroccan design have their workshops and showrooms, from ceramics and textiles to furniture and fashion. The quarter is 4km outside of the centre. A round-trip taxi ride from the medina (at a negotiated set rate) will probably cost between Dh150 and Dh250.

  Darart LibrairieBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 31 45 93; 79 Rue Yves Saint Laurent; h9am-6pm)

  This bookshop sells glossy coffee-table books about Morocco, with a small selection of English and French titles. There's also a tiny shelf of Morocco travel guidebooks, good city and country maps, and a decent clutch of Moroccan cookery books.

  AtikaSHOES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 95 76; 34 Rue de la Liberté; h8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-8pm Mon-Sat)

  With more colours than a candy store, Atika loafers are a Marrakesh must-have. Some customers have been known to buy their favourite shoe in 10 different colours, and at Dh650 to Dh700 a pair, a quarter of the price of designer-brand lookalikes, who can blame them?

  8Information

  Dangers & Annoyances

  Hustlers and touts are part and parcel of the medina experience. Marrakesh's Brigades Touristiques (Tourist Police) have, in recent years, managed to stymie the worst of the city's hustler problem, but not completely eliminate it. Keep your wits about you and be prepared for a fair amount of hassle.

  If you’re lost in the medina, ask a shopkeeper for directions. Often bored youths will point you in the wrong way on purpose.

  Emergency

  Brigade TouristiquePOLICE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 46 01; Rue Ouadi el-Makhazine)

  Central Police StationPOLICE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %190; Rue Ibn Hanbal, Guéliz; h24hr)

  Internet Access

  Most hotels, riads and many cafes and restaurants offer free wi-fi.

  There is still a scattering of cybercafes within the medina, mostly near the Djemaa el-Fna. Look out for signs reading 'c@fe'. Most charge Dh8 to Dh12 per hour and open between 10am and 10pm.

  Cyber Café in Cybe
rParkINTERNET

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.arsatmoulayabdeslam.ma; Ave Mohammed V; per hr Dh10; h9am-6pm)

  Fifteen terminals with fast connections amid the oleander trees in the CyberPark.

  Money

  ATMs are found around Djemaa el-Fna in the medina and along Ave Mohammed V in the ville nouvelle.

  On Sundays, ATMs on Rue Bab Agnaou (near Djemaa el-Fna) and in Rahba Kedima often run out of funds. Try ATMs on Rue Fatima Zohra, near Bab Ksour, or in the ville nouvelle.

  The medina souqs are still very much a cash society. Only larger shops will accept credit and debit cards.

  Many midrange and top-end accommodations accept payment in euros.

  BCMI BankBANK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)

  Société GénéraleBANK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)

  Voyages SchwartzEXCHANGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 74 69; 22 Rue Moulay Ali; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat)

  Represents American Express.

  Medical Services