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  Djemaa El-Fna Food StallsMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains Dh30-50; hsunset-1am)

  Grilled meat and tajines as far as the eye can see! Plus Moroccan specialities of snail soup, sheep's brains and skewered hearts for the more adventurous gourmet. Eating amid the mayhem of the Djemaa food stalls at least once in your trip is not to be missed. Always go for the busiest stalls as they'll have the freshest meat.

  Marrakech Henna Art CafeCAFE€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 14 10; www.marrakechhennaartcafe.com; 35 Derb Siquya; mains Dh40; h10am-9pm; Wv)

  This charming cafe and art space is a cosy retreat dishing up a mixed menu of North African (the Berber omelette and turkey brochettes with caramelised pumpkin are winners) and healthy-leaning sandwiches. True to its name there are local art exhibits, a collection of Berber artefacts, wall murals and the opportunity to get your own piece of henna body art.

  Roti d'OrINTERNATIONAL€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kennaria Dabbachi; mains Dh25-40; h10.30am-9pm)

  Blink and you'd miss it, but Roti d'Or is not a place to miss if you're looking for a good-value non-Moroccan meal in the medina. Enchiladas, a Tex-Mex burger and felafel sandwiches feature on the menu, all served with a tangy rice salad and chips.

  Café des ÉpicesCAFE€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0254 39 17 70; Pl Rahba Kedima; sandwich & salads Dh45-60; h8am-9pm; W)

  A traveller's institution parked in prime position on Rahba Kedima. Watch the henna artists and basket sellers tout for business from your shady stool while munching on sandwiches or sipping a fresh beetroot, apple and ginger juice. We like the Paris Marrakech burger stuffed with cheese and aubergine.

  Henna CafeCAFE, MOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hennacafemarrakech.com; 93 Arset Aouzal; mains Dh40, tattoos from Dh50; h11am-8pm; Wv)S

  Tea, coffee, salad, henna tattoo, Darija class…they're all on the menu at this funky cafe, where a local nquasha (henna artist) draws intricate designs on hands and feet and you can munch on felafel platters and khleer (cured lamb) sandwiches on the rooftop terrace. All profits go to local residents in need.

  Babouche CaféMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0675 36 94 68; Rue el-Giza; mains Dh25-55; h11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; W)

  First, the bad news: it's in a hilariously bad location right next to a car park. Now the good: this scrubbed up hole-in-the-wall cafe with its shady patio of maroon walls framed by palms (rubbing up against aforementioned car park) may just dish up some of the tastiest tajines in the medina. The harira (lentil soup; Dh15), in particular, is delicious.

  Fox Art FoodCAFE€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Riad Zitoun el-Kedim; mains Dh35-50; h11am-10pm)

  Overseen by the fox-headed mannequin out front, this funky, fun cafe is run by a group of local artists as a means to support their work. Pull up a stool (made from old crates and recycled denim) and order lunch from the small menu that trips from sandwiches, salads and burgers to a couple of tajine offerings.

  Latitude 31MEDITERRANEAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 49 34; www.latitude31marrakech.com; 186 Rue el Giza; mains Dh130-210; h6-11pm; W)

  It's difficult to tweak heavily traditional cuisines without raising eyebrows but Latitude 31 pretty much pulls it off. Not all of it completely gels, but the complimentary pumpkin crème brûlée starter is luscious and their take on mrouzia (lamb tajine cooked with honey, raisins and almonds) is a sweet-sticky-savoury delight. Service is stellar.

  Souk KaféMOROCCAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 61 02 29; 11 Derb Sidi Abdelaziz; mains Dh90-120; h9am-9pm; aW)

  Pull up a hand-hewn stool under terrace parasols and stay a while: this is authentic local food worth savouring. The Moroccan mezze of six cooked vegetable dishes qualifies as lunch for two, and the vegetarian Berber couscous is surprisingly hearty – but wait until you get a whiff of the aromatic Marrakshi tanjia, with its slow-cooked, perfectly falling apart beef.

  Cafe ClockCAFE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 37 83 67; www.cafeclock.com; 224 Derb Chtouka; mains Dh60-95; h10am-10pm; Wv)

  Little sister to the Fez original, Cafe Clock is housed in an old school with sunset views over the Kasbah. The signature camel burger, inventive sandwiches and salads are reason enough to drop in, but the cross-cultural vibe will keep you returning. Every Monday and Thursday they host traditional hikayat (storytelling) performances and there's live Gnaoua and Amazigh music on Sundays.

  NaranjLEBANESE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 68 05; www.naranj.ma; 84 Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid; mains Dh69-119; h11am-11pm; a)

  If you know your felafel from your fattoush (salad of toasted bread, tomatoes, onion and mint) make a beeline here. Inside it's a glam mix of funky khamsa (traditional amulet) mirrors, low-hanging copper lamps and stripy textiles that wouldn't be out of place in a hipster Beirut cafe. Which is the point, because the menu is of bang-on classic Lebanese favourites, with a couple of contemporary twists.

  Kui-ZinINTERNATIONAL€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 39 09 84; www.kui-zin.com; 12 Rue Amesfah; mains Dh50-90; h11am-10pm Tue-Sun; Wv)

  As you're munching on complimentary olives and fresh-baked bread, choose from a menu that spins from couscous and tajines to vegetable lasagne (actually a delicious, cheesy carrot and courgette pie) and chicken curry. Chef Kenza takes real pride in the preparation, while Hassan serves everything with a heartfelt smile. Come for dinner and get live music thrown in, too.

  I LimoniITALIAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 30 30; 40 Rue Bab Taghzout; mains Dh80-180; hnoon-11pm; v)

  We're kinda partial to any restaurant that has a collection of kitsch snow-globes on display, but I Limoni serves up a fine line of pasta as well. Park yourself up in the lemon-tree-shaded courtyard, order a glass of wine (from Dh50) and tuck into comforting dishes such as ricotta ravioli with parmesan, lemon zest and mint.

  Le JardinMOROCCAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 37 82 95; www.lejardin.ma; 32 Derb Sidi Abdelaziz; mains Dh80-140; Wv)

  Entrepreneur Kamal Laftimi transformed this 17th-century riad in the medina's core into a tranquil oasis where you can lunch beneath a canopy of banana trees, serenaded by songbirds, as tiny tortoises inch across the floor tiles. The menu can be hit and miss, but shines with its big-portioned brochettes and whole grilled sardines.

  Un Déjeuner à MarrakechMEDITERRANEAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 37 83 87; 2-4 Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid, cnr Douar Graoua; mains Dh85-135; h11am-10pm; aWv)

  Popular with the lunching crowd, Un Déjeuner dishes up a Mediterranean menu that jumps from Tangier shrimp to steak, mozzarella salad and pumpkin balls. The cactus-lined roof terrace is the place to be on a blue-skied, breezy Moroccan spring day.

  NomadMEDITERRANEAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 16 09; www.nomadmarrakech.com; 1 Derb Arjan; mains Dh90-120; h11am-11pm; Wv)

  Nomad's rooftop terrace is one of the medina's buzziest eating venues. The small menu adds contemporary tweaks to North African staples such as a spice-packed Tunisian lamb brik (pastry), while keeping the punters happy by also serving up a flavoursome burger. Desserts such as apple and beetroot clafoutis and hibiscus panna cotta add an interesting end-of-dinner twist.

  Beats BurgerBURGERS€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 39 12 13; www.beatsburger.com; 35 Souq Jeld Kemakine; mains Dh55-115; h11am-9pm; Wv)

  No, we didn't expect to find a gourmet burger joint sitting snug amid the souqs either. Sign of the times indeed. If you're tajined-out for the day, hit this place for burgers with a difference – stuffed with hash browns, harissa mayonnaise and duck breast – or keep your health halo glowing with a vegan bagel.

  NaimaMOROCCAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Derb Sidi Ishak; meals Dh100; h11am-10pm)

  If you want to eat couscous prepared by a proper Marrakshi mamma then Naima is the place to be. Squeeze into the
tiny dining room, order either tajine or couscous (there's no menu) and settle back with a mint tea as the women get cooking. Bring your appetite – this is family-style Moroccan food and the portions are huge.

  oDar AnikaMOROCCAN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 39 17 51; www.riaddaranika.com; 112 Riad Zitoun el-Kedim; mains Dh150-200; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-11pm)

  The small terrace, framed by palms and trailing bougainvillea, is all about romantic candlelit dining. The main courses offer a tastebud tour of Moroccan dishes often missing from medina menus. For a sweet-savoury kick order the chicken seffa medfouna (chicken topped with raisin, almond and cinnamon spiked vermicelli) or go full-hog and pre-order (four hours in advance) the camel tanjia.

  oPepeNeroITALIAN, MOROCCAN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 90 67; www.pepenero-marrakech.com; 17 Derb Cherkaoui; mains Dh120-220, 3-course lunch menu Dh190; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; Wv)

  Housed in part of Riad al Moussika, Thami el Glaoui's one-time pleasure palace, this Italian-Moroccan restaurant is one of the finest in the medina, with its fresh house-made pasta stealing the show. Request a table beside the courtyard pool, rimmed by citrus trees, to make the most of the occasion. Reservations required.

  Le TobsilMOROCCAN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 40 52; 22 Derb Abdellah ben Hessaien; 5-course menu incl wine Dh640; h7.30-11pm Wed-Mon)

  In this intimate riad near Bab Laksour, 50 guests (max) indulge in button-popping, five-course Moroccan menus with aperitifs and wine pairings, as Gnaoua musicians strum quietly in the courtyard. Don't let the belly dancers distract you from your 11 salads, pastilla (rich savoury pie), tajines (yes, that’s plural) and couscous, capped with mint tea, fruit and Moroccan pastries. Booking required.

  La Maison ArabeMOROCCAN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 70 10; www.lamaisonarabe.com; 1 Derb Assehbe; mains Dh150-200; h7.30pm-midnight; Wv)

  La Maison Arabe was serving Moroccan fine dining decades before other riads, and viva la difference! The focus here is on the food and service, with excellent classical Andalucian musicians providing subtle background music for traditional tajine and couscous feasts. Make an evening of it and drop into the piano bar for an aperitif before your meal.

  SUGAR RUSH: MARRAKESH'S SWEET TREATS

  APâtisserie Amandine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 96 12; www.amandinemarrakech.com; 177 Rue Mohamed El Beqal; sweets & desserts from Dh10; h7am-9pm; a) Outstanding viennoiserie and multicoloured macarons.

  APâtisserie al-Jawda ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 38 97; 11 Rue de la Liberté; h8am-7.30pm) Sweet and savoury delicacies featuring figs, orange-flower water and desert honey.

  APâtisserie des Princes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 30 33; 32 Rue Bab Agnaou; h9am-9pm; a) The city’s most famous patisserie, with enough pain au chocolat and mille-feuille to keep Djemaa el-Fna dentists in business.

  APanna Gelato ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 65 65; www.pannagelatoitaliano.it; cnr Rue du Capitaine Arrigui & Ave Mohammed V; cone Dh20; h7.30am-10pm; a) A master gelato artisan from Italy, proprietary recipes and top ingredients make Panna the best place for ice cream in Morocco.

  Ville Nouvelle

  oAmal CenterMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 68 96; amalnonprofit.org; cnr Rues Allal ben Ahmad & Ibn Sina; mains Dh50-60; hnoon-4pm)S

  Do good while eating delicious food – double bonus. The Amal Center supports and trains disadvantaged Moroccan women in restaurant skills and you get to feast on their flavours. So many Marrakesh restaurants reflect poorly on local cuisine, but here you get the real home-cooking deal. On our last visit we had the best fish tajine we've ever tasted in Morocco.

  The menu changes daily but there's always at least three options of starters, mains and dessert; on Fridays couscous is always the star of the show. Prices are locally focused so the restaurant's clientele is a happy mix of local families, expats and in-the-know tourists. Even better, if the spicy zing of your tajine has got your tastebuds craving more, they're now running cooking classes.

  CatanzaroITALIAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 37 31; 42 Rue Tariq ibn Ziyad; mains Dh50-120; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.15-11pm Mon-Sat; a)

  This is the best pizza in Morocco. It may even be the best pizza this side of the Med. We realise that's an awfully big call and maybe the very reasonably priced wine here (from Dh160 per bottle) went to our head, but Catanzaro's thin-crust, wood-fired creations (particularly the Neapolitan with capers, local olives and Atlantic anchovies) are a show-stealer.

  LoftINTERNATIONAL€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 42 16; 18 Rue de la Liberté; mains Dh130-190; hnoon-midnight; aW)

  Carnivores unite. From Atlas mountain snails to lamb shank and a divine calf's liver (doused in a luscious garlicky sauce), Loft is a meat-lover's paradise. Framed by huge wall mirrors, the small space buzzes from lunch till late, but exceptionally on-the-ball staff keep service fast and friendly even when it's packed.

  Mamma MiaITALIAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 44 54; www.restaurant-mammamia.com; 18 Rue de la Liberté; mains Dh50-170; h10am-10pm; av)

  Full hat-tip to this family-friendly trattoria for its smoke-free section. Take a tajine break and join the punters chowing down on good-value pizzas, generous bowls of pasta or main dishes of veal escalope and steak. Beer and wine are available and there's a full bar out the back (in the smoking section).

  Chez MadoSEAFOOD€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 14 94; 22 Rue Moulay Ali; mains Dh90-220; hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm Tue-Sun; a)

  With the fragrance of Oualidia's salty shallows still fresh on them, Chez Mado's oysters are the prettiest and plumpest in Marrakesh. Shellfish and seafood are delivered daily here, where under chef Alex Chaussetier's direction they are transformed into the lightest lunches: elegant sole meunière, grilled prawns and mayonnaise, John Dory with chorizo and a seafood platter to blow your mind.

  Café 16CAFE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 33 96 70; 18 Pl du 16 Novembre; desserts Dh70, sandwiches & salads Dh120-140; h9am-midnight)

  The blonde-wood decor and prices may seem European, but the welcome is Marrakshi – and so are intriguing ice-cream flavours like bergamot orange tea and kaab el-gazelle (almond cookie). Great for a coffee or beer in the early evening, or perhaps some gold-leafed chocolate-coffee cream cake or raspberry-mousse cake for dessert.

  oAl FassiaMOROCCAN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 40 60; www.alfassia.com; 55 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; mains Dh110-175; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Wed-Mon)

  In business since 1987, this stalwart of the Marrakesh dining scene is still one of the best. Meals begin with a bang with complimentary 12-dish mezze (salads) while Moroccan mains of chicken tajine or caramelised pumpkin and lamb tajine with almonds and eggs – served by an all-female waiter crew – show how the classics should be done. Reservations essential.

  AzarMIDDLE EASTERN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 09 20; www.azarmarrakech.com; Rue de Yougoslavie; mains Dh95-250; h7pm-midnight; av)

  Imagine a Beirut lounge teleported to Marrakesh via Mars: with space-captain chairs and star-patterned stucco walls, the decor is out of this world – and the Lebanese-inspired fare isn’t far behind. The mezze is where this place really shines with pleasing batata harra (spicy baked potatoes) and chankliche (cheese). Shared mixed mezze platters (from Dh190) will keep vegetarians happy, and bills in this stratosphere.

  LOCAL EATS

  Mechoui AlleyMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Souq Ablueh, east side; mechoui Dh50-70; h11am-2pm)

  Just before noon, the vendors at this row of stalls start carving up steaming sides of mechoui (slow-roasted lamb). Point to the best-looking cut of meat, and ask for a nuss (half) or rubb (quarter) kilo. The cook will hack off falling-from-the-bone lamb and hand it to you with fresh-baked bread, cumin, salt and olives.

  Snack al-BahriyaSEAFOOD€
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  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 75 Ave Moulay Rachid, cnr Rue Mauritanie; seafood with chips Dh30-80; h10am-midnight)

  Fish and chips the Marrakesh way. The entire stretch of Rue Mauritanie is packed with sidewalk stalls and restaurants serving up seafood, but Snack al-Bahriya is our favourite for dishing up fresh fish and perfectly tender fried calamari with generous chunks of lemon, plus salt, cumin and hot sauce.

  Plats Haj BoujemaaMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 65 Rue Mohammed Bakkal; mains Dh25-45; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun)

  Brochettes (kebabs), tajines, pizza, pasta, steak. This unpretentious place covers all the bases, though what it's known for is its perfectly grilled meat. Join the locals who crowd in here on their lunch break for a cheap, tasty meal with friendly service.

  Oscar ProgrèsMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 20 Rue Bani Marine; mains Dh35-45; hnoon-11pm)

  This brightly lit local canteen serves up huge plates of couscous and sizzling brochettes (kebabs) to hungry office workers who take a pew at long communal tables. Despite the dining-hall atmosphere, the food is a good standard and the service efficient and pleasant.