Lonely Planet Morocco Read online

A list of pharmacies operating night hours (known as Pharmacie de Garde) is posted on or beside the door of all chemists. For public holidays, the list will include pharmacies that are open during the day. For an online list and location map, refer to www.syndicat-pharmaciens-marrakech.com.

  Pharmacie Centrale ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 01 58; 166 Blvd Mohammed V; h9am-7pm) The go-to place for excellent advice, personal care and a reliable stock of medication.

  Pharmacie de l’Unité ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 59 82; Ave des Nations Unies; h8.30am-11pm)

  Clinique InternationaleHOSPITAL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 36 95 95; www.clinique-internationale-marrakech.com; Bab Ighli, off Av Guemassa)

  This central private hospital is recommended by Marrakesh's foreign residents. It's located east of the Menara Gardens, just off the road to the airport.

  Polyclinique du SudMEDICAL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 79 99; 2 Rue de Yougoslavie; h24hr)

  Well-regarded private hospital.

  Post & Telephone

  Public card phones are widely available, especially near Rue de Bab Agnaou in the medina and Ave Mohammed V in Guéliz. Cards can be bought from news vendors and téléboutiques.

  DHLPOST

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 76 48; www.dhl-ma.com; 113 Ave Abdelkrim el-Khattabi; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat)

  International courier service; insurance subject to surcharge.

  FedExPOST

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 31 40 64; 113 Ave Abdelkrim el-Khattabi; h8.15am-12.15pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.15am-12.30pm Sat)

  International courier service.

  Main Post OfficePOST

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 19 63; Place du 16 Novembre; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat)

  Poste restante is at window 3 and the parcel office is around the corner on Ave Hassan II. The section for stamps and foreign exchange stays open until 8pm Monday to Friday and to 6pm on Saturday.

  Post OfficePOST

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de Bab Agnaou; h8am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)

  A convenient branch in the medina.

  Tourist Information

  Office National Marocain du Tourisme (ONMT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 61 79; Pl Abdel Moumen ben Ali, Guéliz; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-8pm Mon-Thu, 8.30-11.30am & 3-6.30pm Fri) Offers pamphlets but little in the way of actual information.

  Most hotels and riads can provide free maps of the city.

  Useful Websites

  ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/morocco/marrakesh) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  AMarrakech Pocket (www.marrakechpocket.com) Marrakesh's monthly French-language listings guide. Also stocked in most hotels and bars.

  AVivre Marrakech (www.vivre-marrakech.com) Events, new openings and listings (all in French). The website's free quarterly guide (in French and English) is available in many hotels and some businesses.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Small, modern Marrakech Menara Airport (RAK; GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 79 10; www.marrakech.airport-authority.com; hinformation desk 8am-6pm; W) is located 6km southwest of town. Due to the growing number of international and charter flights serving Marrakesh, the airport is expanding and a second terminal is currently being built.

  In the arrivals hall you'll find currency exchange, ATMs, an information desk and phone providers where you can equip yourself with a Moroccan SIM card. The currency exchange office stays open until the last flight for the night has arrived.

  Royal Air MarocAIRLINE

  (RAM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 62 05, call centre 0890 00 08 00; www.royalairmaroc.com; 197 Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-12.20pm & 2.30-7pm)

  Has several flights daily to and from Casablanca (one-way from about Dh800, 55 minutes), where you can pick up domestic and international connections.

  Bus

  The CTM bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 44 02; www.ctm.ma; Rue Abou Bakr Seddiq; h6am-10pm) is located southwest of the train station (about 15 minutes on foot). There’s not much at the station in the way of facilities, beyond a smoky 24-hour cafe with stuttering wi-fi.

  A taxi from the station to Djemaa el-Fna shouldn't cost more than Dh30 (drivers will often quote Dh50).

  Supratours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 55 25; www.oncf.ma; Ave Hassan II) is located west of the train station, in the old station building. The station has a cafe and a room where you can check baggage (Dh10 per day, open 6am to 10pm). Bus services connect to train departure and arrival times.

  The parking lot in front of the Supratours office is the arrival and departure point for most international buses, including CTM buses to/from Paris (adult/child Dh2730/2060, 48 hours, Tuesday and Friday).

  Taxis wait in the Supratours parking lot.

  The Gare Routière (Bus Station; GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 39 33; Bab Doukkala) is where non-CTM and Supratours buses arrive and depart from, just outside the city walls at Bab Doukkala, a 25-minute walk or Dh5- to- Dh10 taxi ride from Djemaa el-Fna. The large main building is lined with booths covering local and long-distance destinations; get tickets for early-morning departures the day before as some booths aren’t open first thing.

  Bus Services From Marrakesh

  CTM

  Destination Price (Dh) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)

  Agadir 120/150 regular/premium 3½-4 17

  Casablanca 90/130 regular/premium 3½ 15

  Er-Rachidia 180 10 1

  Essaouira 80 3½ 2

  Fez 185-190 8-9 6

  Laâyoune 350 14-15½ 7

  Ouarzazate 90 4½ 5

  Tan Tan 225 9 8

  Tiznit 140-150 5½ 8

  Zagora 155 7½ 2

  Supratours

  Destination Price (Dh) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)

  Agadir 110/150 regular/comfort plus 4 11

  Dakhla 490 23 2

  Essaouira 80/110 regular/comfort plus 3½ 6

  Laâyoune 350 15 6

  Ouarzazate 80 4½ 3

  Tan Tan 205 10 7

  Zagora 140 7¾ 1

  Car

  If you're coming into town with your own wheels, try to arrive during daylight. Driving through the busy, chaotic traffic at night is stressful for first-time visitors. At all times be alert for scooters, horse carriages, donkeys, pedestrians, and other drivers who rarely obey road rules.

  Local car-rental companies often offer more competitive deals than international operators, with quoted rates starting at around Dh350 per day with air-con and unlimited mileage. For 4WD rentals, count on Dh950 to Dh1300 per day with minimal insurance; the top end of the range reflects the largest vehicles, which can carry up to seven people. You should be able to negotiate a 10% to 20% discount in the low season (late October to mid-December and mid-January to the end of February).

  A car with a driver starts at an additional Dh150 per day within Marrakesh and Dh200 per day for excursions outside Marrakesh.

  International agencies Avis, Hertz, Europcar and Budget all have desks at the airport.

  KAT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 01 75; www.katcar-marrakech.com; 68 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; basic/with air-con per day €24/32; h8am-9pm) Friendly, English-speaking local agency.

  La Plaza Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 18 01; www.laplazacar.com; Immeuble 141, 23 Rue Mohammed el-Beqal; per day from €25; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

  Lhasnaoui Rent ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 31 24 15; www.lhasnaouirent.com; cnr Blvd Allal el-Fassi & Ave Yacoub el-Mansour, 15 Immeuble el-Omairi; per day from €25; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

  Taxi

  Grands taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Uqba bin Nafaa) and minibuses to destinations in the High Atlas, including Asni (Dh30), Ouirgane (Dh40) and Setti Fatma (Dh40), depart from Rue Uqba bin Nafaa, alongside the medina wall, a short walk from Djemaa el-Fna.

  Grands taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Ave du 11 Janvier) serving destinations further afield, including those bound for Agadir (Dh150), Azilal (Dh75), Beni Mellal (Dh110), Demnate (Dh70), Ess
aouira (Dh90), Ouarzazate (Dh120) and Taroudannt (Dh110), gather on a parking lot just outside Bab Doukkala. Prices can fluctuate by Dh10 to Dh20 depending on demand.

  Train

  Marrakesh’s train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 77 68; www.oncf.ma; cnr Ave Hassan II & Blvd Mohammed VI) is big, organised and convenient, with ATMs, cafes and fast-food outlets.

  Taxis wait just outside. To Djemaa el-Fna it's no more than Dh20 on the meter (Dh30 at night) but drivers are notorious for not putting the meter on. Dh50 is the usual quoted price.

  8Getting Around

  Compact and flat, Marrakesh was made for walking. The medina's skinny maze of souqs and alleys can only be explored on foot and central Guéliz is only a 20- to 25-minute stroll from Djemaa el-Fna.

  To/From The Airport

  Airport bus 19 ( GOOGLE MAP ; one way/return Dh30/50; h6.15am-9.30pm) runs a circular route, every 30 minutes, between the airport and central Marrakech. From the airport, it stops at Pl de Foucauld (a one-minute walk to Djemaa el-Fna), then runs along Ave Mohammed V via Bab Nkob (alight for Bab Doukkala) to Guéliz (passing Pl du 16 Novembre and the train station) before heading back to the airport.

  A petit taxi to central Marrakesh from the airport (6km) should be no more than Dh70, but you will most likely have extreme difficulty convincing the driver of this. Late at night, with no other options available, drivers will typically quote between Dh120 and Dh150.

  FIRST TIME ARRIVING IN MARRAKESH

  If it's your first time in Marrakesh, and particularly if you're staying in a medina riad or out in the palmeraie, it makes sense to pay extra and organise a private airport transfer to your accommodation. Most riads charge around Dh150 to Dh170 for the service which, if you're heading into the medina, includes being met at the taxi drop-off point (usually Djemaa el-Fna) and being walked to the door.

  Bus

  Local buses are run by Alsa ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.alsa.ma; fares Dh4). There's a semi-helpful route map on Alsa's website. Buses heading for the ville nouvelle stop at Pl de Foucauld in front of Djemaa el-Fna. Services start around 6am and finish between 9.30pm and 10pm with buses on most routes running every 15 to 20 minutes.

  Key bus lines include the following:

  ABus 1 Kasbah–Guéliz–Bab Doukkala (via Djemaa el-Fna and Ave Mohammed V)

  ABus 8 & 10 Djemaa el-Fna–train station

  ABus 11 Bab Doukkala–Djemaa el-Fna–Menara Gardens

  ABus 12 Jardin Majorelle–Bab Doukkala–Hivernage

  ABus 16 Djemaa el-Fna–Bab Doukkala–Guéliz–northwest suburbs

  Calèches

  These green horse-drawn carriages congregate at Pl de Foucauld next to the Djemaa el-Fna. They’re a pleasant way to get around, if you avoid the rush hours (8am, noon and 5.30pm to 7.30pm). State-fixed rates of Dh120 per hour apply (rates are posted inside the carriage). Expect a tour of the ramparts to take 1½ hours.

  Animal welfare charity SPANA (www.spana.org) works with Marrakesh's calèche drivers, monitoring horse welfare and maintaining water troughs along popular carriage routes.

  Car & Motorcycle

  If your accommodation is in the medina, there are guarded car parks on Rue Fatima Zohra (near Djemaa el-Fna), Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid (near Bahia Palace) and Rue Abbes Sebti (behind the Koutoubia Mosque). In Guéliz there's a secure underground car park on Av Mohammed V, opposite the post office. Expect to pay Dh20/40 during the day/24 hours.

  In Guéliz some roads have parking meters (Dh2 per hour). If you find street parking without a meter, a guardian will expect a Dh10 tip for keeping an eye on your car; look for the guy in the blue coat and pay your tip afterwards.

  If you’re feeling brave and/or foolhardy, you might join the fray on a scooter or motorcycle. Rentals are available from Marrakech Roues ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0663 06 18 92; www.marrakech-roues.com; Imm Roux, 3 Rue Bani Marine; per hr/half-day/full-day Dh50/80/160; h9am-1pm & 2-8.30pm Mon & Tue, 9.30am-7.30pm Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am-12.30 & 2.30-9pm Fri).

  Taxi

  Metered rates for the city's beige petits taxis around town are between Dh8 and Dh20 with a Dh10 surcharge at night. Many drivers will insist their meter is 'broken' and will quote higher prices, particularly taxis waiting at stands that get a lot of tourist business (the airport, train station, Djemaa el-Fna and Jardin Majorelle are notorious for this). You can usually get a metered rate – or at least, a better quoted price – by flagging a taxi down from the street.

  If your party numbers more than three, you must take a grand taxi, which requires negotiation.

  Around Marrakesh

  Ouirgane

  When Marrakesh is baking 60km to the northeast, and tourists and day-trippers are swamping Ourika, Marrakshis sneak off to mellow Ouirgane for High Atlas breezes, peaceful hikes through unspoilt villages and romantic country retreats. For those crossing the Tizi n'Test to or from Taroudannt, Ouirgane makes an excellent stopover en route to Marrakesh.

  4Sleeping

  oOuirgane EcolodgeGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0668 76 01 65; www.ouirgane-ecolodge.com; r Dh400-800; aWs)S

  For a peaceful escape from the Marrakesh bustle, it's hard to fault this environmentally minded retreat. Rooms boast a warm Berber design, and the lounge is a fine place for a meal or to curl up fireside with a good book. You can also use the hammam (€5), lounge by the pool, hire mountain bikes or take scenic walks in the surrounding countryside.

  There are only four rooms, so reserve well ahead.

  oL’Oliveraie de MarighaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

  (%0524 48 42 81; www.oliveraie-de-marigha.com; Km 59 R203, Douar Marigha; d/ste Dh900/1300; paWs)

  Weekend escapees come all the way from Casa to lunch on wood-fired pizza in this olive grove and float in the pool admiring High Atlas views. Chic bungalows in subtle earth tones sit amid the trees and are equipped with walnut furniture, double-glazed French doors and shiny, marble bathrooms. Children are made welcome with a separate pool, mini-golf and other amusements (ping-pong, petanque).

  Domaine MalikaGUESTHOUSE€€€

  (%0524 48 59 21; www.domainemalika.com; Rte d'Amizmiz, Douar Marigha; d from Dh1390, ste Dh1800-2100; paWs)

  The perfect antidote to inward-facing medina riads, this modern villa with only seven rooms is all about the great outdoors. Floor-to-ceiling patio doors overlook a keyhole-shaped pool shaded by drooping pepper trees, while 1st-floor rooms enjoy views of High Atlas peaks from double aspect windows and private terraces. The decor, likewise, is modern with a slight vintage vibe and a zesty colour palette. Service and food are impeccable. It's about 6km north of Ouirgane.

  WORTH A TRIP

  GREAT ESCAPES: THE AGAFAY DESERT

  If you don't have time to traverse mountain passes, you can take an overnight trip to the Agafay Desert: a rough, dry, moon-like expanse 40km southwest of Marrakesh down the Rte d'Amizmiz. This is a favourite playground for weekending Marrakshis who come for horse-riding, dune-gazing and canoeing on Lalla Takerkoust, a man-made reservoir. In spring wheat and wildflowers predominate; in summer and autumn it really does look like the desert.

  Desert retreats are the name of the game here. They're all set up for relaxing, unwinding and making the most of the harshly beautiful surrounding countryside.

  Unless you have your own wheels, getting to and around the Agafay Desert area is near on impossible. All the resorts in the area can arrange pick-up and drop-off transfers to and from Marrakesh.

  Here are four of our favourites:

  La PauseLODGE€€

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 30 64 94; www.lapause-marrakech.com; Douar Lmih Laroussiéne, N 31°26.57, W 008°10.31; d per person incl full board in safari tent/lodge €135/200; s)

  Skip off the grid to this desert getaway where you can experience the stark, visceral beauty of Morocco's countryside. This is a chill-out zone for grown-ups, where electricity and smartphone checking is out, hammock swinging and nomad-tent dining is in, and you bed down in rustic-chic bungalows complete with candles, tataoui (woven
reed) ceilings and Berber carpets.

  ScarabeoTENTED CAMP€€€

  (%0662 80 08 23; www.scarabeo-camp.com; d/ste/f incl half-board Dh2055/2755/3080; hclosed mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

  Tuareg nomads never saw camping like this. Scarabeo's white nomad-style tents, complete with carpets and comfy beds, sit amid the barren Agafay desert with panoramic views stretching to the Atlas Mountains. During the day spend your time trekking, riding camels, or exploring by 4WD; at night simply look up for unforgettable stargazing.

  Jnane TihihitECOLODGE€€€

  (%0524 38 73 52; www.riad-t.com/jnane-tihihit; Douar Makhfamane; d incl breakfast from Dh940; ps)S

  Relax as nature intended, on an organic farmstead with solar-heated, whitewashed pisé bungalows amid pomegranate trees. Foodies can tend saffron gardens and learn to make couscous (meals around Dh175), while kids can go riding or head out to the lake-front beach or lounge by the chemical-free pool. It's located about 45km southwest of Marrakesh off the P2009.

  Terre des ÉtoilesTENTED CAMP€€€

  (%0524 44 73 75; www.terredesetoiles.co.uk; N 31°27.50, W 08°11.65; per person incl half-board Dh700-950)

  Get away from it all at this peaceful spot amid the lunar terrain with fine views of the distant Atlas. Lodging is in one of 10 spacious luxury tents, complete with comfy mattresses, quality furnishings and en suite. You can help out in the garden, head out on an excursion (walking, camel rides, mountain biking) or simply enjoy a life unplugged, beneath star-filled skies by night. It's located about 34km southwest of Marrakesh, off the R212.