Lonely Planet Tokyo Read online

  Crafts Gallery Ceramics, lacquerware and more from Japan's 'living national treasures'.

  Suntory Museum of Art Modern setting for changing displays of decorative works.

  History

  Edo-Tokyo Museum Tells the story of how a fishing village evolved into a sprawling, modern metropolis.

  National Shōwa Memorial Museum Learn what life was like for ordinary Tokyoites during WWII.

  Shitamachi Museum Recreation of a wooden, Edo-era tenement neighbourhood.

  Traditional Gardens

  Rikugi-en Tokyo's most beautiful landscape garden, evoking scenes from classical literature.

  Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien An ancient shogunate hunting ground, now a vast green space with a traditional teahouse.

  Kiyosumi-teien A former villa pleasure garden with sculptural stones from around Japan.

  Koishikawa Kōrakuen Built by the Tokugawa clan, a fine example of traditional Japanese garden design.

  Parks

  Ueno-kōen Tokyo’s oldest park with museums, temples, woodsy paths and water lilies.

  Shinjuku-gyoen Home to 1500 cherry trees, vast lawns and a tropical greenhouse.

  Yoyogi-kōen A big grassy expanse and a popular weekend gathering spot.

  Inokashira-kōen Wooded strolling paths, performance artists and pedal boats.

  People Watching

  Akihabara See cosplay (costume play) kids on Sundays along Chūō-dōri, or anytime riding go-karts through the neighbourhood.

  Yoyogi-kōen With people living in tight quarters, dancers and musicians head to the park to practise.

  Omote-sandō The city's de facto catwalk draws fashionistas from all over the world.

  Ginza Head out in the twilight hours and catch high-end hostesses in kimonos and elaborate up-dos.

  City Views

  Tokyo Sky Tree Dizzying views from the lookouts on this 634m tower, the world’s tallest.

  Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building The 45th-floor observation decks in this marvel by Tange Kenzō are free.

  New York Bar One of many luxury hotel cocktail bars with stunning night views.

  Tokyo Bay Take a night cruise and see the shoreline from the bay.

  Tokyo at dusk | PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZHANGXUN / GETTY IMAGES ©

  Markets

  Tsukiji Outer Market A warren of stalls selling kitchen tools and foodstuffs to chefs and home cooks alike.

  Ameya-yokochō Tokyo's last open-air market dates to the tumultuous days after WWII.

  Harmonica-yokochō Classic low-ceiling, lantern-lit covered market.

  Ōedo Antique Market Hunt for undiscovered antique treasures at this twice-monthly gathering.

  Month By Month

  Top Events

  Hatsu-mōde, January

  Cherry Blossoms, April

  Sanja Matsuri, May

  Sumida-gawa Fireworks, July

  Kōenji Awa Odori, August

  January

  Tokyo comes to a halt for O-shōgatsu, the first three days of the new year set aside for family and rest; most places close and many residents return to their home towns.

  zHatsu-mōde

  Hatsu-mōde, the first shrine visit of the new year, starts just after midnight on 1 January and continues through O-shōgatsu. Meiji-jingū is the most popular spot in Tokyo; it can get very, very crowded, but that's part of the experience.

  zComing of Age Day

  The second Monday of January is seijin-no-hi, the collective birthday for all who have turned 20 (the age of majority) in the past year; young women don gorgeous kimonos for ceremonies at Shintō shrines.

  February

  February is the coldest month, though it rarely snows. Winter days are crisp and clear – the best time of year to spot Mt Fuji in the distance.

  zSetsubun

  The first day of spring is 3 February in the traditional lunar calendar, a shift once believed to bode evil. As a precaution, people visit Buddhist temples, toss roasted beans and shout, ‘Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!’ (‘Devil out! Fortune in!’).

  zShimo-Kitazawa Tengu Matsuri

  On the weekend nearest to Setsubun (late January or early February), Shimo-Kitazawa hosts a parade with revellers dressed in tengu (devil) costumes.

  1Plum Blossoms

  Plum (ume) blossoms, which appear towards the end of the month, are the first sign that winter is ending. Popular viewing spots include Koishikawa Kōrakuen and Yushima Tenjin.

  Koishikawa Kōrakuen in autumn | MAGICFLUTE002 / GETTY IMAGES ©

  March

  zHina Matsuri

  On and around 3 March (also known as Girls’ Day), public spaces and homes are decorated with o-hina-sama (princess) dolls in traditional royal dress.

  3Anime Japan

  In late March, Anime Japan (www.anime-japan.jp) has events and exhibitions for industry insiders and fans alike, at Tokyo Big Sight.

  April

  Warmer weather and blooming cherry trees make this quite simply the best month to be in Tokyo.

  1Cherry Blossoms

  From the end of March through the beginning of April, the city’s parks and riversides turn pink and Tokyoites toast spring in spirited parties, called hanami, beneath the blossoms. Ueno-kōen is the most famous spot, but grassy Yoyogi-kōen and Shinjuku-gyoen are more conducive to picnicking.

  May

  There’s a string of national holidays at the beginning of May, known as Golden Week, when much of the country makes travel plans. Festivals and warm days make this an excellent time to visit.

  zChildren’s Day

  On 5 May, also known as otoko-no-hi (Boys’ Day), families fly koinobori (colourful banners in the shape of a carp), a symbol of strength and courage.

  zTokyo Rainbow Pride

  In May, Japan’s LGBT community comes together for the country’s biggest pride event (http://tokyorainbowpride.com), in some years followed by a parade. It’s not London or Sydney, but a spirited affair just the same.

  zKanda Matsuri

  This is one of Tokyo's big three festivals, with a parade of mikoshi (portable shrines) around Kanda Myōjin. It's held on the weekend closest to 15 May on odd-numbered years (next up 2019).

  zDesign Festa

  Weekend-long Design Festa (www.designfesta.com), held at Tokyo Big Sight in mid-May, is Asia's largest art festival, featuring performances and thousands of exhibitors.

  zSanja Matsuri

  Arguably the grandest Tokyo matsuri (festival) of all, this three-day event, held over the third weekend of May, attracts around 1.5 million spectators to Asakusa-jinja. The highlight is the rowdy parade of mikoshi carried by men and women in traditional dress.

  June

  Early June is lovely, though by the end of the month tsuyu (the rainy season) sets in.

  zSannō Matsuri

  For a week in mid-June Hie-jinja puts on this major festival, with music, dancing and a procession of mikoshi. The parade takes place in even-numbered years.

  July

  When the rainy season passes in mid- to late July, suddenly it’s summer – the season for lively street fairs and hanabi taikai (fireworks shows).

  zTanabata

  On 7 July, the stars Vega and Altar (stand-ins for a princess and cowherd who are in love) meet across the Milky Way. Children tie strips of coloured paper bearing wishes around bamboo branches; look for decorations at youthful hang-outs such as Harajuku and Shibuya.

  zMitama Matsuri

  Yasukuni-jinja celebrates O-Bon early: from 13 to 16 July, the shrine holds a festival of remembrance for the dead with 30,000 illuminated bonbori (paper lanterns).

  zUeno Summer Festival

  From mid-July to mid-August various events, including markets and music performances, take place in Ueno-kōen.

  zLantern Festivals

  Toro nagashi is a photogenic summer tradition, connected to O-Bon, where candle-lit paper lanterns are floated down rivers. It takes place from mid-July to mid-August; two big ones happen at Chidori-ga-fuchi, along
the Imperial Palace moat, and at Sumida-kōen in Asakusa.

  zSumida-gawa Fireworks

  The grandest of the summer fireworks shows, held the last Saturday in July, features 20,000 pyrotechnic wonders. Head to Asakusa early in the day to score a good seat. Check events listings for other fireworks displays around town.

  August

  This is the height of Japan's sticky, hot summer; school holidays mean sights may be crowded.

  zAsagaya Tanabata

  Asagaya holds a Tanabata festival over the first weekend of August, with colourful lanterns strung up in its shōtengai (shopping arcade), Pearl Centre.

  zO-Bon

  Three days in mid-August are set aside to honour the dead, when their spirits are said to return to the earth. Graves are swept, offerings are made and bon-odori (folk dances) take place. Many Tokyo residents return to their home towns; some shops may close too.

  zFukagawa Hachiman Matsuri

  During this spirited festival at Tomioka Hachiman-gū, spectators throw water over the mikoshi carriers along the route. It’s held in a big way only every three years; next up in 2020.

  zAsakusa Samba Carnival

  On the last Saturday in August, Tokyo’s Nikkei Brazilian community and local samba clubs turn Kaminarimon-dōri into one big party for the Asakusa Samba Carnival (浅草サンバカーニバル www.asakusa-samba.org).

  zKōenji Awa Odori

  Kōenji Awa Odori (高円寺阿波おどり www.koenji-awaodori.com) is Tokyo's biggest awa odori (dance festival for O-Bon) with 12,000 participants in traditional costumes dancing their way through the streets over the last weekend of August.

  Fukagawa Hachiman Matsuri | SAETHAPOENG TRIECHORB / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  September

  Days are still warm, hot even – though the odd typhoon rolls through this time of year.

  1Moon Viewing

  Full moons in September and October call for tsukimi, moon-viewing gatherings. People eat tsukimi dango – mochi (pounded rice) dumplings round like the moon.

  3Tokyo Game Show

  Get your geek on when the Computer Entertainment Suppliers Association hosts Tokyo Game Show (東京ゲームショウ http://tgs.cesa.or.jp), a massive expo at Makuhari Messe in late September.

  zTokyo Grand Tea Ceremony

  Held in late September or early October, at Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien and Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architecture Museum, this is a big outdoor tea party (http://tokyo-grand-tea-ceremony.jp/eng/index.html), with traditional tea ceremonies held in various styles, usually including one with English translation.

  October

  Pleasantly warm days and cool evenings make this an excellent time to be in Tokyo.

  zRoppongi Art Night

  Held in mid- to late October, this weekend-long (literally, as venues stay open all night) arts event (www.roppongiartnight.com) sees large-scale installations and performances taking over the streets of Roppongi.

  zTokyo International Film Festival

  During the last week in October, the Tokyo International Film Festival screens works from Japanese and international directors, with English subtitles.

  1Halloween

  Tokyo has gone mad for Halloween with thousands of costumed revellers converging on Shibuya Crossing. Shinjuku Ni-chōme and Roppongi see action, too.

  zChrysanthemum Festivals

  Chrysanthemums are the flower of the season (and the royal family), and dazzling displays are put on from late October to mid-November in Hibiya-kōen (日比谷公園 GOOGLE MAP ; www.tokyo-park.or.jp/english/park/detail_02.html#hibiya; 1-6 Hibiya-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; bHibiya line to Hibiya, exits A10 & A14) and at shrines including Meiji-jingū and Yasukuni-jinja.

  November

  zDesign Festa

  Round two for Design Festa (デザインフェスタ www.designfesta.com) takes place in early November.

  zTori-no-ichi

  On 'rooster' days in November, 'O-tori' shrines such as Hanazono-jinja hold fairs called Tori-no-ichi (tori means 'rooster'); the day is set according to the old calendar, which marks days by the zodiac. Vendors hawk kumade – rakes that literally symbolise 'raking in the wealth'.

  zShichi-go-san

  This adorable festival in mid-November sees parents dress girls aged seven (shichi) and three (san) and boys aged five (go) in wee kimonos and head to Shintō shrines for blessings.

  1International Robot Exhibition

  The world’s largest robot expo (www.nikkan.co.jp/eve/irex/english) takes place every other year at Tokyo Big Sight (www.bigsight.jp).

  3Tokyo Filmex

  Tokyo Filmex (http://filmex.net), which kicks off in late November, focuses on emerging directors in Asia and screens many films with English subtitles.

  1Autumn Leaves

  The city’s trees undergo magnificent seasonal transformations during kōyō (autumn foliage season); Rikugi-en and Koishikawa Kōrakuen have spectacular displays.

  December

  Restaurants and bars are filled with Tokyoites hosting bōnenkai (end-of-the-year parties). Commercial strips are decorated with seasonal illuminations.

  zGishi-sai

  On 14 December, Sengaku-ji hosts a memorial service honouring the 47 rōnin (masterless samurai) who famously avenged their fallen master; locals dressed as the loyal retainers parade through nearby streets.

  5Toshikoshi Soba

  Eating buckwheat noodles on New Year’s Eve, a tradition called toshikoshi soba, is said to bring luck and longevity – the latter symbolised by the length of the noodles.

  zJoya-no-kane

  Temple bells around Japan ring 108 times at midnight on 31 December, a purifying ritual called joya-no-kane. Sensō-ji draws the biggest crowds in Tokyo.

  With Kids

  In many ways, Tokyo is a parent’s dream: hyperclean, safe and with every mod con. The downside is that many of the top attractions aren’t as appealing to younger ones. Older kids and teens, however, should get a kick out of Tokyo’s pop culture and neon streetscapes.

  Hang out in Odaiba

  Local families love Odaiba. At the National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation (Miraikan) meet humanoid robot ASIMO, see a planetarium show and interact with hands-on exhibits.

  At 'onsen theme park' Ōedo Onsen Monogatari, kids wear yukata (lightweight kimonos) and play old-fashioned carnival games. There’s also virtual-reality arcade Tokyo Joypolis, and one of the world’s tallest Ferris wheels. Restaurants are family-friendly.

  Explore Ueno

  Sprawling park Ueno-kōen has a zoo (with pandas) and the fascinating National Museum of Nature & Science. See swords and armour at Tokyo National Museum.

  Spot Trains

  Japanese kids love trains, and chances are yours will too. A platform ticket to see the shinkansen (bullet train) costs ¥140. Another popular train-spotting location is Shinjuku Station's southern terrace, overlooking the multiple tracks that feed the world’s busiest train station.

  Fun & Games

  Amusement Parks

  Head to Tokyo Dome City for thrill rides, play areas and baseball at Tokyo Dome. Or brave the long lines at Tokyo Disney Resort, Asia's most visited amusement park.

  Anime City

  Explore the magical world of famed animator Miyazaki Hayao (Ponyo, Spirited Away) at Ghibli Museum. Shop for their favourite character goods at Pokemon Center Mega Tokyo, Sanrioworld Ginza and KiddyLand.

  Photo Ops

  Get up close to the giant Godzilla statue atop the Hotel Gracery Shinjuku. Snap (and decorate) family photos at high-tech photo booths at Purikura no Mecca.

  Karaoke

  Spend a rainy day at a karaoke parlour such as Shidax Village.

  Arts & Crafts

  Learn the Japanese art of paper craft at Origami Kaikan.

  Fishing

  Here's something they won't expect: fishing in the middle of the city at Ichigaya Fish Centre.