Lonely Planet Tokyo Read online

  TK KURIKAWA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Tokyo's Top 16

  Akihabara Pop Culture

  15Venture into the belly of the pop culture beast that is Akihabara, the centre of Tokyo's otaku (geek) subculture. You don't have to obsess about manga or anime to enjoy this quirky neighbourhood: as otaku culture gains more and more influence on the culture at large, 'Akiba' is drawing more visitors who don't fit the stereotype. With its neon-bright electronics stores, retro arcades, cosplay cafes, it's equal parts sensory overload, cultural mind-bender and just plain fun.

  SEAN PAVONE / SHUTTERSTOCK©

  Tokyo's Top 16

  Ōedo Onsen Monogatari

  16Don’t let Tokyo’s slick surface and countless diversions fool you; underneath the city it’s pure, bubbling primordial pleasure. Ōedo Onsen Monogatari pumps natural hot-spring water from 1440m below Tokyo Bay into its many bathing pools, which include both indoor and outdoor baths (called rotemburo). But it's not just about bathing: Ōedo Onsen Monogatari bills itself as an 'onsen theme park' – a fantastically Japanese concept – and includes a Disneyland-style version of an Edo-era town where guests dressed in yukata (light cotton kimonos) can play old-time carnival games.

  JAVIER LARREA / AGE FOTOSTOCK ©

  What's New

  Build up to 2020

  The countdown to the 2020 Summer Olympics is on as Tokyo prepares for the international spotlight. More and more English is popping up, in the form of navigational signs, apps, menus and brochures; more restaurants and shops are hiring English-speaking staff, too. Free city wi-fi, though still clunky, is improving. Some sights (such as Meiji-jingū) are getting touch-ups; others (such as Tokyo Photographic Art Museum) have recently reopened.

  Ginza Reboot

  Roppongi, Marunouchi and Nihombashi have all had makeovers in the last decade, and now it's Ginza's turn. In spring 2017, the neighbourhood will welcome its newest shopping centre, Ginza Six. Also new: Ginza Sony Park (銀座ソニーパーク MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sonybuilding.jp; 5-3-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; bGinza, Hibiya, Marunouchi line to Ginza, exit B9), Ginza Place and Tōkyū Plaza Ginza.

  Go-Karting

  The latest Tokyo craze is racing around the city streets in go-karts – dressed like your favourite video-game character. Operators include Akiba Kart and Maricar.

  Artsy East Tokyo

  Kuramae, near Asakusa, is shaping up to be a hot spot for contemporary artisan studios and boutiques.

  Sumida Hokusai Museum

  In 2016, east Tokyo neighbourhood Ryōgoku got a striking new museum devoted to hometown artist – and woodblock print master – Hokusai.

  More Activities

  There's lots to do in Tokyo, including new cooking classes and crafts workshops in English.

  Tsukiji Update

  The fate of Tsukiji Market is up in the air again, moving at the earliest (if at all) in 2017. Either way, the fantastic Outer Market, now with even more tours and activities taking place, will remain.

  Tennōzu Isle Art & Architecture

  All of a sudden things are happening in this warehouse district on Tokyo Bay, with recent openings including the fantastic architecture model storage gallery Archi-Depot, the arts supply store Pigment and a gallery complex.

  Guesthouses Galore

  The stylish hostels and guesthouses just keep coming and, with new openings in neighbourhoods near Marunouchi and Roppongi, they're no longer confined to the east side of town.

  Cafes, Cafes, Cafes

  The coffee third wave has shown no signs yet of cresting in Tokyo. There's a new cafe belt forming in Kiyosumi, to rival the one established in the Shibuya-Harajuku-Yoyogi corridor.

  Need to Know

  Currency

  Japanese yen (¥)

  Language

  Japanese

  Visas

  Visas are generally not required for stays of up to 90 days.

  Money

  Post offices and most convenience stores have international ATMs. Credit cards are accepted at major establishments, though it’s best to keep cash on hand.

  Mobile Phones

  Purchase prepaid data-only SIM cards (for unlocked smartphones only) online or at airport kiosks or electronics stores. For voice calls, rent a pay-as-you-go mobile.

  Time

  Japan Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus nine hours)

  Tourist Information

  Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Tourist Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5321-3077; 1st fl, Tokyo Metropolitan Government bldg 1, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h9.30am-6.30pm; bŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4) offers English-language information and publications. Other branches in Keisei Ueno Station, Haneda Airport and Shinjuku Bus Terminal.

  When to Go

  Spring and autumn are the best times to visit: spring has cherry blossoms; autumn has arts events. Mid-June to mid-July is the rainy season; August is hot and humid, but is also the month for summer festivals.

  Daily Costs

  Budget: less than ¥8000

  ADorm bed: ¥3000

  AFree sights such as temples and markets

  ABowl of noodles: ¥750

  AHappy-hour drink: ¥500

  A24-hour subway pass: ¥600

  Midrange: ¥8000–20,000

  ADouble room at a business hotel: ¥14,000

  AMuseum entry: ¥1000

  ADinner for two at an izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery): ¥6000

  ALive music show: ¥3000

  Top End: more than ¥20,000

  ADouble room in a four-star hotel: ¥35,000

  ASushi-tasting menu: ¥15,000

  ABox seat for kabuki: ¥21,000

  ATaxi ride back to the hotel: ¥3000

  Advance Planning

  Three months before Purchase tickets for the Ghibli Museum; book a table at your top splurge restaurant.

  One month before Book any tickets for sumo, kabuki and Giants games online, and a spot on the Imperial Palace tour; scan web listings for festivals, events and exhibitions.

  As soon as you arrive Look for free copies of Time Out Tokyo and Metropolis magazines at airports and hotels.

  Useful Websites

  Go Tokyo (www.gotokyo.org) The city’s official website includes information on sights, events and suggested itineraries.

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Time Out Tokyo (www.timeout.jp) Arts and entertainment listings.

  Tokyo Food Page (www.bento.com) City-wide restaurant coverage.

  Tokyo Cheapo (https://tokyocheapo.com) Hints on how to do Tokyo on the cheap.

  Arriving in Tokyo

  Narita Airport An express train or highway bus to central Tokyo costs around ¥3000 (one to two hours). Both run frequently from 6am to 10.30pm; pick up tickets at kiosks inside the arrivals hall (no advance reservations required). Taxis start at ¥20,000.

  Haneda Airport Frequent trains and buses (¥400 to ¥1200, 30 to 45 minutes) to central Tokyo run frequently from 5.30am to midnight; times and costs depend on your destination in the city. There are only a couple of night buses. For a taxi, budget between ¥5000 and ¥8000.

  Tokyo Station Connect from the shinkansen (bullet train) terminal here to the JR Yamanote line or the Marunouchi subway to destinations around central Tokyo.

  Getting Around

  Efficient, clean and virtually crime-free, Tokyo's public transport system is the envy of the world. Of most use to travellers is the train and subway system, which is easy to navigate thanks to English signage.

  ASubway The quickest and easiest way to get around central Tokyo. Runs 5am to midnight.

  ATrain Japan Rail (JR) Yamanote (loop) and Chūō-Sōbu (central) lines service major stations. Runs from 5am to midnight.

  ATaxi The only transport option that runs all night; unless you’re stuck, taxis only make economical sense for groups of four.

  ACycling A fun way to get around, though traffic can be intense. R
entals available; some hostels and ryokan lend bicycles.

  AWalking Subway stations are close in the city centre; save cash by walking if you only need to go one stop.

  Sleeping

  Tokyo's accommodation is expensive, though more attractive budget and midrange options are popping up all the time. Business hotels are an economic option and ryokan (traditional inns with Japanese-style bedding) fill the need for small, character-filled sleeping spaces. The best deals are on the east side of town, in neighbourhoods such as Ueno and Asakusa. Standards of cleanliness and service are generally high everywhere.

  Useful Websites

  AJalan (www.jalan.net/en/japan_hotels_ryokan) Japanese discount accommodation site.

  AJapanican (www.japanican.com) Accommodation site for foreign travellers, run by Japan's largest travel agency.

  ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/japan/tokyo/hotels) Compare prices, check availability and book accommodations.

  What to Pack

  ATokyo hotels can be tiny, so bring as small a suitcase as possible.

  AYou may be taking your shoes on and off a lot, so it helps to have ones that don’t need lacing up.

  Top Itineraries

  Day One

  Harajuku & Aoyama

  MStart with a visit to Meiji-jingū, Tokyo’s signature Shintō shrine. Then walk down Omote-sandō to check out the jaw-dropping contemporary architecture along this stylish boulevard. Work (and shop) your way back through the side streets of Ura-Hara, and then up Takeshita-dōri, the famous teen fashion bazaar.

  5

  Lunch Stop for dumplings at local fave Harajuku Gyōza-rō.

  Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

  RHead down to Shibuya (you can walk) and continue your schooling in Tokyo pop culture by wandering the lanes of this youthful neighbourhood. Don't miss Shibuya Center-gai, the main drag, and the mural, Myth of Tomorrow, in the train station. Stick around Shibuya until dusk to see Shibuya Crossing all lit up.

  5

  Dinner Classic izakaya Donjaca or yakitori in Omoide-yokochō.

  Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

  NTake the train to Shinjuku and immerse yourself in the swarming crowds and neon lights of this notorious nightlife district. The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observatories stay open until 11pm for free night views. Freshen up at urban onsen Thermae-yu. From around 9pm the shanty bars of Golden Gai come to life; take your pick from the quirky offerings and finish up with a time-honoured Tokyo tradition: a late-night bowl of noodles at Nagi.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Two

  Ginza & Tsukiji

  MSkip breakfast and head to Tsukiji Outer Market, where you can cobble together a morning meal from the food vendors here. There are also stalls selling kitchen tools, tea and more. From Tsukiji it's an easy walk to the landscape garden Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien, where you can stop for tea in the teahouse Nakajima no Ochaya. Then walk (or take a taxi) to Ginza, home to department stores, art galleries and luxury boutiques.

  5

  Lunch Go for broke at Ginza sushi counter Kyūbey; reservations necessary.

  Ginza & Tsukiji

  RContinue exploring Ginza, walking as far as Hibiya, to see the edge of the Imperial Palace, with its moats and keeps. Then hop on the subway and ride back to Kabukiza (in Higashi-Ginza), to see a single act of kabuki (check the schedule online beforehand).

  5

  Dinner Night-time noodles at Kagari.

  Marunouchi & Nihombashi

  NWalk up Namiki-dōri, home to high-end hostess bars, and pretty, tree-lined Naka-dōri to Marunouchi. In nearby Yūrakuchō, you can stop for sake, beer and small plates of food under the elevated train tracks at Manpuku Shokudō. Or go upscale with cocktails at Peter atop the Peninsula Hotel.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Three

  Ueno & Yanesen

  MSpend the morning exploring the many attractions of Ueno-kōen, home to the Tokyo National Museum, centuries-old temples and shrines, and Tokyo's biggest zoo. Then take a stroll through the old-fashioned, open-air market, Ameya-yokochō, and the historical neighbourhood of Yanaka; in the latter you'll find art galleries and studios.

  5

  Lunch Get a course of seasonal skewers at historic Hantei.

  Asakusa & Sumida River

  RCatch the subway for Asakusa to visit the temple complex Sensō-ji, the shrine Asakusa-jinja and the maze of old-world alleys that surround these sights. There are lots of shops selling traditional crafts and foodstuffs around here, too. Don't miss the temple complex all lit up from dusk.

  5

  Dinner Fill up on steaming oden at 100-year-old Otafuku.

  Asakusa & Sumida River

  NAsakusa has some fun, low-key nightlife, from the historic beer hall Kamiya Bar to the modern Asahi Sky Room (where the view of the illuminated Tokyo Sky Tree and the snaking Sumida-gawa is excellent); you can also catch folk-music shows at Oiwake. Or just take the subway to Ryōgoku for more beer: Popeye boasts Tokyo's largest selection of Japanese craft brews.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Four

  West Tokyo

  MTake the train west to the magical Ghibli Museum (reservations necessary; we recommend getting in early at 10am). Afterwards walk through woodsy Inokashira-kōen, stopping at Inokashira Benzaiten, to Kichijōji, home to the old market, Harmonica-yokochō.

  5

  Lunch Skewers at Tetchan or wagyū (Japanese beef) steak at Satou.

  Akihabara & Kōrakuen

  RAfter lunch, work your way east on the Sōbu line: your final goal is pop culture centre Akihabara. (But if you get distracted by the vintage clothing shops of Kōenji or the more underground otaku scene in Nakano, that's OK too.) In Akiba you can play retro video games at Super Potato Retro-kan and ride go-karts – while dressed as video-game characters – through the streets with Akiba Kart (reserve ahead; international driving licence necessary).

  5

  Dinner Get the izakaya experience at Jōmon or Gonpachi.

  Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

  NHop on the Hibiya line for Roppongi to check out Roppongi Hills, the first of Tokyo's new breed of live-work-and-play megamalls. On the top floor of a tower here is the excellent Mori Art Museum, which stays open until 10pm. Then head out into the wilds of Roppongi's infamous nightlife. Make sure to get in a round of karaoke.

  If You Like...

  Shintō Shrines

  Meiji-jingū Tokyo’s grandest Shintō shrine, set in a wooded grove.

  Ueno Tōshō-gū Recently restored, gilded homage to warlord Tokugawa Ieyasu.

  Inokashira Benzaiten Ancient sanctuary of the sea goddess, Benzaiten.

  Akagi-jinja Centuries-old shrine updated with modern style.

  Buddhist Temples

  Sensō-ji Tokyo’s oldest and most famous Buddhist temple and the epicentre of old-world Asakusa.

  Fukagawa Fudō-dō An active temple of the esoteric Shingon sect, which performs regular fire rituals.

  Sengaku-ji This Sōtō Zen temple is the final resting place of the famous 47 rōnin (masterless samurai).

  Zōjō-ji The very rare main gate of this Pure Land Buddhist temple dates to 1605.

  Museums

  Tokyo National Museum Home to the world’s largest collection of Japanese art.

  Intermediatheque Experimental museum drawing on the holdings of the University of Tokyo.

  Nezu Museum Asian antiques in a striking contemporary building.

  Sumida Hokusai Museum New museum dedicated to woodblock artist Hokusai.

  Contemporary Art & Design

  Mori Art Museum (森美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mori.art.museum; 52nd fl, Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; adult/child/student ¥1600/600/1100; h10am-10pm Wed-Mon, to 5pm Tue, inside Sky Deck 10am-10pm; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 1) Sky-high galleries that host travelling shows by top Japanese and foreign artists.

  21_21 Design Sight Museum devoted entirely to contemporary design.

&nbs
p; Archi-Depot Repository for architecture models by famous names.

  Complex 665 New destination housing three leading galleries.

  Crafts

  Japan Folk Crafts Museum (日本民藝館; Mingeikan GOOGLE MAP ; http://mingeikan.x0.com; 4-3-33 Komaba, Meguro-ku; adult/student/child ¥1100/600/200; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; dKeiō Inokashira line to Komaba-Todaimae, west exit) Exhibitions highlighting the beauty of everyday objects.