Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  zHari Raya Aidlifitri

  The end of Ramadan is followed by a month of breaking-the-fast parties, many of them public occasions where you can enjoy a free array of Malay culinary delicacies. The Malaysian prime minister opens his official home in Putrajaya to the public.

  zPutrajaya Floria

  This flower and garden festival (www.floriaputrajaya.com.my) lasts nine days and is a big affair. Expect colourful displays of exotic blooms including orchids and bougainvillea.

  August

  Haze from forest and field-clearance fires in Indonesia can create smog in KL, so avoid visiting during this month and the next if you are prone to respiratory complaints and asthma.

  zFestival of the Hungry Ghosts

  Chinese Malaysians perform operas, host open-air concerts and lay out food for their ancestors. The ghosts eat the spirit of the food but thoughtfully leave the substance for mortal celebrants. Celebrated towards the end of the month and in early September.

  zNational Day

  Join the crowds at midnight on 31 August to celebrate the anniversary of Malaysia’s independence in 1957. Events are held in Merdeka Sq and across KL.

  September

  A month packed with festivals, making it a great time to visit the city, though haze from forest fires may still be a problem.

  3DiverseCity

  KL's international arts festival (http://diversecity.my; hSep) runs throughout September and offers a packed program of contemporary and traditional dance, music shows, literature readings, comedy and visual-arts events.

  3KL International Jazz & Arts Festival

  A cracking line-up of artists perform at this festival, held on the University of Malaya campus in September.

  2Petronas Malaysian Grand Prix

  Formula 1’s big outing (www.formula1.com; hOct) in Southeast Asia is held at the Sepang International Circuit over three days. Associated events and parties are held in KL.

  3Cooler Lumpur Festival

  Multidisciplinary arts festival with a different annual theme and events staged at Publika.

  5Malaysian International Gastronomy Festival

  Prestigious restaurants and master chefs all pitch in with their best efforts during this month-long celebration of edible creativity in KL that includes food fairs and cooking classes. Full details at www.migf.com.

  November

  In the run-up to Deepavali, KL's Little Indias are packed with stalls selling textiles and celebratory sweets.

  zDeepavali

  Tiny oil lamps are lit outside Hindu homes to attract the auspicious gods Rama and Lakshmi. Indian businesses start the new financial year. Little India is ablaze with lights.

  December

  School holidays can see hotels booked up towards the end of the month, when many people arrive in the region to vacation over the Christmas and New Year breaks.

  zWinter Solstice Festival

  Called Dong Zhi in Mandarin and Tang Chek in Hokkien, this Chinese festival offers thanks for a good harvest and usually occurs between 21 and 23 December. It’s celebrated by eating glutinous rice balls served in a clear sugar syrup.

  With Kids

  KL has a lot going for it as a family-holiday destination. Its textbook Southeast Asian cultural mix offers chances to watch temple ceremonies and sample an amazing range of food. Nature is also close at hand, along with clean accommodation, modern malls and fun amusement parks.

  Public playground in KLSTEFAN CRISTIAN CIOATA/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Animal & Jungle Attractions

  It's not so long ago that tigers and other beasts of the jungle prowled the outskirts of KL. Abundant swaths of greenery within the city and in its surrounds mean that wildlife is still very much present.

  At Batu Caves and the Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM), encountering wild monkeys, such as macaques and langurs, is pretty much guaranteed. Zoo Negara is one of the region's better-managed facilities and offers visitors a chance to become a volunteer for a day.

  In the heart of KL there's the Aquaria KLCC with its many sea creatures and touch pools, as well as the excellent KL Bird Park, KL Butterfly Park and Deer Park (Taman Rusa & Kancil; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Perdana; h9am-6pm; c; dKuala Lumpur), all at the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park.

  Parks & Theme Parks

  For small kids, the following parks have top-grade playgrounds with slides, splash pools and the like: Perdana Botanical Garden, KLCC Park and Titiwangsa Lake Gardens.

  Brave kids and teens will be thrilled by the chance to make like a monkey in the treetops by traversing the canopy walkways at KL Forest Eco Park and FRIM.

  When the weather turns too hot or rainy, the Berjaya Times Square Theme Park provides an indoor energy-burning and fun-injecting experience. Scheduled to open in 2017, the theme park 20th Century Fox World at Genting Highlands is set to be a major attraction, with rides based on movies such as Ice Age, Life of Pi, Planet of the Apes and Night at the Museum.

  Pack your swimsuits and sunscreen and head to Sunway Lagoon for a brilliant watery theme park, featuring water slides and a surfing beach along with other attractions including a mall and an ice rink. There's also a water park at the City of Digital Lights at i-City outside Shah Alam.

  Museums, Temples & Heritage Buildings

  Heading up the Petronas Towers is not just an opportunity to gawk at the city from on high but also to learn about the tower's construction and, afterwards, visit the hands-on science museum Petrosains, within the Suria KLCC mall.

  Batu Caves, with its Hindu temples, colourful tableaux of Hindu tales and legends, monkeys, and natural Dark Cave, holds much to capture a child's imagination. The dazzlingly decorated Thean Hou Temple is similarly appealing, with photo ops of Chinese zodiac statues, flying dragons and a pool teeming with tortoises.

  Dining Out

  KL's myriad dining outlets offer meals that will appeal to the fussiest of kids. Although you may not think it, a busy food stall is usually the safest place to eat – you can see the food being prepared, the ingredients are often fresh and if the wok stays hot there’s little chance of bacteria. Grown-ups can also try adventurous dishes while the kids get something more familiar.

  If outdoor eating is something you're not comfortable with, then there are plenty of indoor food courts – all the major malls have them, and choice and standards are universally fantastic. Many restaurants attached to hotels and guesthouses will serve familiar Western food, while international fast food is ubiquitous. Midrange and upscale restaurants often have high chairs, but most budget places don’t.

  Malaysian drinks are very sweet and even fresh juices usually have sugar added. To cut down on sugar, ask for drinks without sugar or order bottled water.

  Markets & Malls

  KL's crowded wet markets and street markets are no place to be pushing a pram around. The butchering stalls can also be the stuff of childhood nightmares. But if you have curious older kids then markets can be a great opportunity for learning about and tasting unfamiliar tropical fruits and veggies.

  Some shopping malls go overboard to embrace the family. At Avenue K, don't miss the interactive dinosaur exhibition Discoveria. Publika has a particularly good selection of shops for kids and parents, including ones offering clothing, toys, crafts and books. Play spaces and crèches are available at Megakidz in Mid Valley Megamall and Kizsport & Gym in Bangsar Village II ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bangsarvillage.com; cnr Jln Telawi 1 & Jln Telawi 2, Bangsar Baru; h10am-10pm; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar).

  Older kids and teens will love exploring the warren of youth-oriented outlets at Sungei Wang Plaza. The Tokyo Street section of Pavilion KL is also a dream for those into Japanese fashion and comic cultures.

  Need to Know

  Time Out KL (www.timeout.com/kuala-lumpur/kids) publishes a Malaysia for Kids guide and its website has up-to-date listings and features on what to do with your kids.

  Like a Local

  In Kuala Lumpur, the traditional greeting is not 'How are you?'
but 'Sudah makan?' (Have you eaten yet?), underlining the national obsession with food. Hawker stalls, kopitiam (coffee shops) and mamaks (Muslim Indian-Malay hawker stalls) are where locals catch up on news and gossip with friends and family.

  Devotee carrying a kavadi | LIM_JESSICA/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Eating & Shopping

  Tap into what truly makes this city tick: the search for the next great meal. There are many online blogs and sites – such as www.eatdrinkkl.blogspot.com and http://theyumlist.net/en/ – devoted to the local dining scene and a couple of great food tours that get you walking the streets, grazing along the way.

  Next to eating, KLites' favourite pastime has to be shopping. These two obsessions dovetail in the city's multiplicity of malls. More local shopping experiences can be had at classic Southeast Asian fresh-produce day markets, such as Pudu Market and Bazaar Baru Chow Kit, and at several atmospheric night markets, the most famous of which is the one along Jln Petaling. Craft markets are becoming popular, with monthly ones to attend at Bangsar Shopping Centre and Publika.

  Festivals

  Being a multicultural, multifaith city, KL sees few weeks unadorned by some sort of religious or cultural celebration. As well as ceremonies at mosques, shrines and temples, this often means special things to eat and drink.

  Securing a reservation at popular restaurants in the weeks leading to Chinese New Year can be tricky, as friends, colleagues and family gather over endless banquets. Ramadan bazaars (special afternoon food markets) and buffets are reason enough to visit KL during the Muslim holy month. For weeks before Deepavali, KL’s Little Indias are awash in stalls selling clothing, textiles, household goods and special sweets and savoury snacks.

  Drinking & Nightlife

  KL's traditional kopitiam (coffee shops) now sit side by side with hip new venues where coffee-making is a scientific process involving beakers and tubes, performed by baristas who compete in latte-art contests.

  Come nightfall, join KLites in their quest to find the city's best cocktail, sampling the wares of mixologists at rooftop bars and a growing number of speakeasy-style joints as you go.

  5Eating

  KL is a nonstop feast. You can dine in incredible elegance or mingle with locals at street stalls, taking your pick from a global array of cuisines. Ingredients are fresh, cooking is high quality and hygiene standards are excellent. Most vendors speak English, and the final bill is seldom heavy on the pocket.

  Beef and chicken satay skewers | KEVIN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Where to Eat

  Hawker Stalls, Markets & Food Courts

  The tastiest and best-value food is found at hawker stalls, and locals are fiercely loyal to their favourite vendors. Many hawkers have been in business for decades or operate a business inherited from parents or even grandparents; the best enjoy reputations that exceed geographical reach. To sample Malaysian hawker food, simply head to a stand-alone streetside kitchen-on-wheels, a kopitiam (coffee shop) or food court. Place your order with one or multiple vendors, find a seat (shared tables are common) and pay for each dish as it’s delivered to your table. You’ll be approached by someone taking drink orders after you’ve sat down – pay for these separately as well.

  Intrepid eaters shouldn’t overlook pasar (markets). Morning markets include stalls selling coffee and other beverages, as well as vendors preparing foods such as freshly griddled roti and curry and chee cheong fun (rice-noodle roll). Ta pao (takeaway) or eat in – most can offer at least a stool. Pasar malam (night markets) are also excellent places to graze.

  There’s little to fear about eating from outdoor hawker stalls or food markets, but if you want some air-conditioning and a little more comfort, there’s no shortage of indoor food courts in KL's malls.

  Hawker stalls | JEMBANTOLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Coffee Shops & Restaurants

  While some kopitiam operate like food courts, with different vendors under one roof, others are single-owner establishments. Expect to be served noodle and rice dishes, strong coffee and other drinks, and all-day breakfast fare such as half-hard-boiled eggs and toast spread with kaya (coconut cream jam).

  Restoran (restaurants) range from casual, decades-old Chinese or Malay restaurants to upscale establishments boasting international fare, slick decor and a full bar.

  Vegetarians & Vegans

  Given the inclusion of prawn paste and fish in many dishes, vegetarians and vegans will find it difficult to negotiate their way around most menus. Chinese vegetarian restaurants and hawker stalls (signage will include the words 'sayur-sayuran') are safe bets – they are especially busy on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, when many Buddhists adopt a vegetarian diet for 24 hours.

  Indian vegetarian restaurants are another haven for snacks such as steamed idli (rice cakes) served with dhal and dosa, as well as thali (full set meals consisting of rice or bread with numerous side dishes). Look also for Chinese eateries displaying rows of stainless-steel pans and advertising 'economy rice'; this type of restaurant will have several purely vegetarian dishes.

  What to Eat

  Chinese

  Thanks to generations of immigrants from all parts of China, KL boasts a notable range of regional Chinese cuisines, including Cantonese, Sichuanese, Teochew, Hokkien and Hakka.

  Homegrown Chinese dishes that the city is famous for include pan mee. Literally ‘board noodles’, these are substantial hand-cut or hand-torn wheat noodles tossed with dark soy sauce and garlic oil, garnished with chopped pork and crispy ikan bilis (dried sardines or anchovies), and served with soup on the side. Some versions include a poached egg.

  More expensive than your average noodle dish but well worth it are sang har mee (literally ‘fresh sea noodles’): huge freshwater prawns in gravy flavoured with Chinese rice wine and the fat from the shellfish heads, served over yee mee (crispy fried noodles).

  Hainanese immigrants were the private cooks of the British during colonial rule, which has led to a hybrid style of Western cuisine still served in old-school places such as Yut Kee, the Coliseum Cafe and, in a much more fancy version, the Colonial Cafe at the Majestic Hotel.

  Malay & Peranakan

  Head to Kampung Baru to sample the specialities of Malaysia’s eastern states, such as Kelantanese nasi kerabu and ayam percik (barbecued chicken smothered in chilli-coconut sauce) and, from Terengganu, nasi dagang (nutty, coconut milk–cooked red rice).

  Also look out across the city for restaurants serving Peranakan (or Nonya/Nyonya) cuisine, a fusion of Chinese and Malay ingredients and cooking techniques.

  Indian

  KL's two Little Indias – the official one in Brickfields and the other around Masjid India – are the places to sample Indian cooking, although you'll find the cuisine of the subcontinent served right across the city. Further afield, Klang's Little India also has an excellent array of Indian eateries.

  A very KL experience is taking supper late at night at a Muslim Indian-Malay eatery known as a mamak; these typically run 24 hours, serve comfort-food dishes such as roti canai (flaky, flat bread), mee goreng (fried noodles) and murtabak (roti stuffed with meat).

  Other Cuisines

  KL's dining scene is fully international and – thanks to Malaysia’s huge immigrant workforce – you needn’t look far to find inexpensive Thai, Burmese, Nepalese, Indonesian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani fare. Among the more upmarket dining options are restaurants serving Italian, French, fusion, Japanese and pan-Asian cuisine, ranging in style from casual chic to white tablecloth.

  Top Tastes

  Don’t even think about leaving KL without sampling these much-loved specialities:

  ANasi lemak – rice steamed in coconut milk and served with ikan bilis (small, dried sardines or anchovies), fried peanuts, half a hard-boiled egg, sambal (chilli sauce) and a selection of curries; often eaten for breakfast.

  AChar kway teow – wide rice noodles stir-fried with prawns, cockles, bean sprouts and egg; it vies with nasi lemak for the title of ‘national
dish’.

  ARoti canai – flaky unleavened bread griddled with ghee until crisp and eaten with curry or dhal; it's another breakfast favourite.

  AAsam laksa – hailing from Penang, this is a sour and chilli-hot bowlful of round rice noodles in a fish-based soup, garnished with slivered torch ginger flower, chopped pineapple and mint.

  ACendol – a wonderfully refreshing sweet of shaved ice mounded over toothsome mung-bean noodles, all doused in fresh coconut milk and luscious palm-sugar syrup.

  When to Eat

  To those used to ‘three square meals’, it might seem as if Malays are always eating. In fact, five or six meals or snacks is more the order of the day than strict adherence to the breakfast-lunch-dinner trilogy. Breakfast is often something that can be grabbed on the run: nasi lemak wrapped to go (bungkus) in a banana leaf or brown waxed paper, a quick bowl of noodles, toast and eggs, or roti canai.