Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  Language

  Bahasa Malaysia, English

  Visas

  Generally not required for stays of up to 60 days.

  Money

  ATMs widely available; credit cards accepted in most hotels and restaurants.

  Mobile Phones

  Local SIM cards can be used in most phones; if not, set your phone to roaming.

  Time

  Malaysia Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours)

  Tourist Information

  Visit KL

  Malaysia Tourism Centre

  When to Go

  It's hot and humid year-round. The city can be busy during Chinese New Year (January/February) and Ramadan. In July and August there's a chance of haze caused by smoke from field-clearing fires in Indonesia.

  Daily Costs

  Budget: Less than RM100

  ADorm bed: RM17–50

  AHawker stalls and food courts for meals

  AUse public transport; plan sightseeing around walking tours, free museums and galleries

  Midrange: RM100–500

  ADouble room in a comfortable hotel: RM100–400

  ATwo-course meal in a neighbourhood restaurant: RM40–60

  ATake taxis and guided tours

  Top end: More than RM500

  ALuxury double room: RM450–1000

  AMeal in top restaurant plus bottle of wine: RM200

  Advance Planning

  Two months before Book tickets for a concert at the Dewan Filharmonik Petronas.

  One month before Plan your itinerary, checking to see if there are any events or festivals you may be able to attend.

  One week before Book online for a tour of Petronas Towers and for a foodie walking tour. Make reservations at any top-end restaurants.

  Useful Websites

  Visit KL (www.visitkl.gov.my) Official city tourism site.

  Time Out KL (www.timeoutkl.com) Monthly listings magazine with an excellent website.

  Zafigo (http://zafigo.com) Founded by Marina Mahathir (daughter of the former prime minister), this online travel guide specialises in advice for women travellers in the region.

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/malaysia/kuala-lumpur) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Arriving in Kuala Lumpur

  Most likely you'll arrive at Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA), although a handful of flights land at SkyPark Subang Terminal. Coming overland, arrival points include KL Sentral for trains and Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) for buses. Ferries from Sumatra (Indonesia) dock at Pelabuhan Klang, which is connected by rail with KL Sentral.

  Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) Trains RM55; every 15 minutes from 5am to 1am; 30 minutes to KL Sentral. Buses RM10; every hour from 5am to 1am; one hour to KL Sentral. Taxis from RM75; one hour to central KL.

  KL Sentral Transport hub with train, light rail (LRT), monorail, bus and taxi links to rest of city.

  Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) Long-distance buses from most destinations now arrive here. It's connected to KL by LRT.

  Getting Around

  KL Sentral is the hub of a rail-based urban network consisting of the KTM Komuter, KLIA Ekspres, KLIA Transit, light rail (LRT) and monorail systems. Though the systems are poorly integrated, you can happily get around much of central KL on a combination of rail and monorail services. Buy the MyRapid card (www.myrapid.com.my; RM10) at monorail and LRT stations; it can also be used on Rapid KL buses.

  AMonorail Stops in mostly convenient locations; gets very crowded during evening rush hour.

  ALight Rail Transit (LRT) Handy for Chinatown, Kampung Baru and KLCC, but network is poorly integrated.

  ABus The GOKL City Bus has four free loop services connecting many city-centre destinations.

  ATaxi Can be flagged down with metered fares. Some designated taxi ranks operate a prepaid coupon system for journeys.

  Sleeping

  There are plenty of budget hostels, hotels and five-star properties, but reserve in advance, especially if visiting during busy Asian travel seasons such as Chinese New Year and the end of Ramadan. You can often snag great online deals for top-end accommodation, which compensates for the dearth of characterful midrange options. Serviced apartments are also well worth considering, especially for longer stays. Rates at the cheaper places usually include all taxes and service charges, but many midrange and all top-end options quote prices without these added, so count on an extra 16% on the bill.

  Useful Websites

  iBilik (www.ibilik.my) Room rentals in Malaysia.

  Asia Homestay (http://asiahomestay.com) Malaysian homestay booking site.

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/malaysia/kuala-lumpur/hotels) Recommendations and bookings.

  Top Itineraries

  Day One

  Bukit Bintang & KLCC

  MHead to the Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), where you've prebooked tickets up the Petronas Towers. Afterwards, browse the shops in Suria KLCC and see a free art exhibition at the excellent Galeri Petronas.

  5

  Lunch Join local office workers for a vegetarian lunch at the Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery Canteen, or eat at one of the restaurants at Suria KLCC or Avenue K.

  Bukit Bintang & KLCC

  RTake a postlunch stroll around KLCC Park, admiring the view of the towers, then take a look at contemporary Malaysian art at the ILHAM in the Foster + Partners–designed tower. Join the 3pm tour of the Malay-style wooden house Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman next to Badan Warisan Malaysia, or learn about sea life at Aquaria KLCC.

  5

  Dinner Feast on chicken wings and grilled fish at Wong Ah Wah on Jln Alor.

  Bukit Bintang & KLCC

  NGo mall hopping to Pavilion KL, Starhill Gallery, Lot 10 and Sungei Wang Plaza along Jln Bukit Bintang until 10pm, then head to Changkat Bukit Bintang and Jln Mesui for the bars; Pisco Bar is a good choice. Also check out No Black Tie for jazz and classical concerts.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Two

  Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

  MAdmire the historic buildings of Merdeka Square (if you can, sign up for one of Visit KL's free tours), then either cycle on a hired bike or take a taxi to the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park. Start at the National Monument, then walk through the Perdana Botanical Garden to the National Museum; if you're there by 10am you can take the free guided tour.

  5

  Lunch Feast on a buffet of traditional Malay dishes at Rebung or eat at the hawker stalls at Kompleks Makan Tanglin.

  Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar

  RContinue to enjoy the leafy surrounds of the park at the KL Bird Park or KL Butterfly Park. Save a couple of hours for the splendid Islamic Arts Museum, then admire the architecture of Masjid Negara and KL Railway Station.

  5

  Dinner Sample the modern mash-up of Malaysian and Western food at Merchant's Lane.

  Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

  NGo souvenir shopping at the Central Market, then push your way through the crowds at Chinatown's Petaling Street Market. Finish up with a cocktail at speakeasy-style bars PS150 or Omakase + Appreciate.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Three

  Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL

  MHave breakfast at Bazaar Baru Chow Kit, one of KL's most atmospheric wet markets, then amble through the Malay area of Kampung Baru admiring the traditional wooden houses and flower gardens.

  5

  Lunch Go old school at the Hainanese kopitiam Yut Kee.

  Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

  RWalk from Masjid India to Bukit Nanas, where you can traverse the canopy walkway of KL Forest Eco Park and then go much higher up the Menara Kuala Lumpur, to get your bearings in the city from the observation deck, and, weather permitting, the new outdoor deck.

  5

  Dinner Chinese at Robson Heights Seafood Restaurant, oysters at Southern Rock Seafood or Indian food in Brickfields.


  Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar

  NFor another panoramic perspective of KL, stand on the upper terraces of the gloriously decorative Thean Hou Temple. Walk around the many religious sites of Brickfields in the cool of the evening and enjoy a cocktail at the rooftop Mai Bar overlooking KL Sentral.

  Kampung Baru | TOM BRYAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Top Itineraries

  Day Four

  Batu Caves

  MClimb the 272 steps at Batu Caves to pay your respects at the Hindu Temple Cave and learn about bats and other cave dwellers in the Dark Cave, then take a taxi up to the Muzium Orang Asli in Gombak.

  5

  Lunch Tuck into Thai at Samira in Sentul Park.

  Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL

  RView the city skyline from Titiwangsa Lake Gardens, where you can hire a bike, take a boat out on the lake or even take a spin in a helicopter. Nearby is the National Visual Arts Gallery.

  5

  Dinner Splash out on dinner at Antara Restaurant at Old Malaya or Strato or Cantaloupe at Troika.

  Bukit Bintang & KLCC

  NSink a sunset cocktail at Heli Lounge Bar. If your budget doesn't stretch to fine dining, a meal at Jalan Imbi Hawker Stalls or Glutton Street will be equally memorable and delicious. End the night at the new entertainment complex TREC: see some stand-up comedy or live music at Live House or club until the early hours at Zouk.

  If You Like...

  Historic Buildings

  Sultan Abdul Samad Building Glorious brick structure with Moorish architectural influences and 43m clock tower.

  Old KL Train Station A Mogul fantasy, once the rail hub of the peninsula.

  Stadium Merdeka Sporting venue where independence of the Federation of Malaya was declared in 1957.

  Loke Mansion Restored home of tin tycoon Loke Yew, now a law firm's office.

  Sultan Sulaiman Club City's oldest Malay club, in the heart of Kampung Baru.

  Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman Traditional wooden stilt house from Kedah in the grounds of Badan Warisan Malaysia.

  Loke Chow Kit Mansion Visit KL's new office is in the beautifully restored building once owned by the tin-mining magnate.

  Malayan Railway Administration Building Mirrors the Mogul style of the Old KL Train Station.

  Old KL Train Station | VINCENT JARY/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Modern Architecture

  Petronas Towers Iconic twin towers that lord it over the city.

  Putrajaya Showcase of modern urban planning and vaulting architectural ambition.

  Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery Hijjas Kasturi–designed complex.

  Istana Budaya Traditional Malay design is applied to this performing-arts hall.

  Animal Encounters

  KL Bird Park Giant aviary that's home to some 200 mostly Asian species.

  Aquaria KLCC Pools swimming with everything from starfish to sand tiger sharks.

  KL Butterfly Park Hundreds of species of fluttering insect and other critters.

  Zoo Negara Feed elephants, camels and deer; watch orangutans and tigers.

  Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) Macaques and langurs (leaf monkeys) hang out in this jungle-like reserve.

  Art Galleries

  National Visual Arts Gallery KL's top public gallery, with permanent and temporary collections.

  ILHAM Hosts changing exhibitions that showcase modern and contemporary Malaysian art.

  Sekeping Tenggiri Outstanding private collection worth making an appointment to view.

  Ruang Pemula Appointment-only private gallery with excellent contemporary collection.

  Publika Mall stacked with commercial art galleries and the MAP exhibition space.

  Religious Sites

  Masjid Negara The National Mosque is a classic piece of modern architecture.

  Temple Cave A 42m statue of Lord Murugan guards the entrance to the Hindu shrine at Batu Caves.

  Sri Mahamariamman Temple Venerable Hindu shrine in Chinatown.

  Masjid Jamek Recently restored mosque sporting elegant Mogul-influenced design.

  Sin Sze Si Ya Temple Atmospheric Chinese temple dedicated to one of KL's founding fathers.

  Thean Hou Temple Fabulous Buddhist temple on a leafy hill overlooking the city.

  Buddhist Maha Vihara Historic Sinhalese Buddhist temple in Brickfields.

  Museums

  Islamic Arts Museum Marvel at gorgeous works of art inspired by the Muslim faith.

  National Museum Covering the region's history from prehistoric times to the present day.

  National Textiles Museum Admire skilful weaving, embroidery, knitting and batik printing.

  Petrosains Science-focused discovery centre at Suria KLCC.

  Royal Museum A look inside the former Istana Negara (National Palace).

  Royal Malaysian Police Museum Excellent small museum that explores the history of Malaysia through the story of policing.

  Parks & Gardens

  KLCC Park Jogging track, great kids' playground, top views of Petronas Towers.

  Titiwangsa Lake Gardens Serene park surrounding a large lake in northern KL.

  KL Forest Eco Park Traverse the canopy walkway in this lowland dipterocarp forest in the heart of the city.

  Taman Botani Landscaped gardens beside the lake in Putrajaya.

  Perdana Botanical Garden KL's oldest park showcases a variety of native and introduced plants and trees.

  Viewpoints

  Menara KL Dine in the revolving restaurant atop this telecom tower.

  Petronas Towers Watch fearless window cleaners from the 86th-floor observation deck.

  Thean Hou Temple City panoramas and decorative dragons and phoenixes.

  Heli Lounge Bar Bottoms up at the cocktail bar on the helipad.

  Chin Woo Stadium Peaceful Chinatown spot to view sunset across the city.

  Month By Month

  Top Events

  Thaipusam, January/February

  Chinese New Year, January/February

  Urbanscapes, April/ May

  Wesak Day, May

  Petronas Malaysian Grand Prix, September

  January

  New Year is a busy travel period, so plan ahead. Both Chinese New Year and Thaipusam can fall in February in some years.

  zThaipusam

  Enormous crowds converge at Batu Caves north of KL and at Nattukottai Chettiar Temple in Penang for this dramatic Hindu festival involving body piercing.

  February

  zChinese New Year

  Dragon dances and pedestrian parades mark the start of the New Year. Families hold open house and everybody wishes you kong hee fatt choy (a happy and prosperous new year). Celebrated on 16 February 2018, 5 February 2019 and 25 January 2020.

  March

  One of KL's wettest months, so bring an umbrella and watch out for flash flooding.

  zBirthday of the Goddess of Mercy

  Offerings are made to the popular Chinese goddess Kuan Yin at temples across the region; a good one to visit is Thean Hou Temple in KL. The goddess is also honoured three times more during the year, in April/May, July/August and October/November.

  zPutrajaya International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

  Held over four days in Putrajaya, this festival (http://myballoonfiesta-putrajaya.com/; Sky Rides Festivals Park; hMar) has hosted hot-air-balloon pilots from as far afield as New Zealand and Switzerland, as well as attracting over 100,000 spectators.

  April

  The end of the light monsoon season on Malaysia’s west coast, but not the end of rain, for which you should always be prepared.

  3Urbanscapes

  Held in various venues across the city over three weekends in April and May, this long-running creative arts festival brings together art, music, film and design with a series of performances and events.

  May

  In 2018, 2019 and 2020 Ramadan will fall mostly in May, so look out for night food markets and buffets around the city. There are also a couple of
big parades this month.

  zWesak Day (Vesak Day)

  In celebration of Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death there's a major procession with illuminated floats and thousands of people carrying candles through KL, starting from the Buddhist Maha Vihara. Celebrated on 29 May 2018, 18 May 2019 and 6 May 2020.

  Lunar Calendar

  Hindu, Muslim and Chinese religious festivals all follow a lunar calendar, so the dates vary each year. Muslim holidays typically move forward 11 days each year, while Hindu and Chinese festivals change dates but fall roughly within the same months.

  June

  The first Saturday of the month is the official birthday of Malaysia's king, marked by a parade at the national palace, an address to the nation and an award ceremony.