Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  It's also a great place for dessert – try the banana brownies or the ondeh-ondeh (pandan-flavoured cake).

  Moghul MahalINDIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2070 8288; www.moghulmahal.com.my; ground fl, Menara Kuala Lumpur; mains RM20-48; h10am-11pm; gKL Tower)

  At the foot of Menara KL is this Punjabi restaurant dishing up tasty tandoori platters, curries and naans as well as teh tarik, masala tea and traditional north Indian sweets.

  Antara RestaurantFUSION$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2078 8881; www.antararestaurant.com; lot 2 Old Malaya, 66-68 Jln Raja Chula; mains RM25-115; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm; gKL Tower)

  Chef Isadora Chai's new venture is Antara at Old Malaya, a row of 100-year-old colonial buildings that have been immaculately renovated to accommodate a cluster of upscale restaurants and bars. The menu is modern Malaysian with French inflections and features creative dishes such as scallop popiah rolled at the table using pancake wraps and tiffin tins of tasty fillings.

  Atmosphere 360MALAYSIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2020 2121; www.atmosphere360.com.my; Menara Kuala Lumpur, 2 Jln Punchak; buffet lunch/afternoon tea/dinner RM92/60/208; h11.30am-1pm, 3.30-5.30pm & 6.30-11pm; gKL Tower)

  There are 360-degree views from this tower-top revolving restaurant. The lunch and dinner buffets offer an ample choice of Malay dishes, though they can be hit and miss. Book ahead (you can do this online) for meals, especially sunset dining, but you can usually just drop in for high tea.

  Note there's a smart-casual dress code in the evening and it costs extra to sit by the window (per table RM25 at lunch and RM50 at dinner).

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  KL'S STREET ART

  Following in the wake of Penang's street-art revolution, a number of KL's buildings have been brightened with large-scale paintings, including one by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic. His mural of a boy in a canoe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wisma Allianz, 33 Jln Gereja; LRT Masjid Jamek) can be seen on the wall of Wisma Allianz, next to a car park on Jln Gereja. On the end of a terrace of shophouses on Jln Panggong in Chinatown, Russian artist Julia Volchkova has painted an evocative mural of a goldsmith ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Panggong; LRT Pasar Seni).

  Other murals to look out for are the huge painting of a boy in a tiger hat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Raja Chulan; gMuzium Telekom) opposite the Muzium Telekom, artist Kenji Chai's giant cockerel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; LRT Plaza Rakyat) on the side of the Nando's building on Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock, and the #distinctive creative art for life ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Imbi; DImbi) explosion of colour overlooking a car park on Jln Imbi opposite the Park Royal Hotel.

  As part of the River of Life project, a number of sculptures have been commissioned, including red-painted metal sculptures by Kuen Stephanie ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kuenstephanie.com; Bangkok Bank Sq, Lebuh Pudu; LRT Masjid Jamek) depicting scenes from Malaysian life in the style of paper cuttings. These can be seen on Bangkok Bank Sq and Lebuh Pudu. Fun, life-size sculptures based on cartoonist Lat's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Melaka; LRT Masjid Jamek) humorous characters are dotted along the trail from Jln Melaka to the KL Forest Eco Park on Jln Raja Chulan.

  If the city's public art leaves you feeling inspired, you can join the Kuala Lumpur Urban Sketchers (www.facebook.com/KLUrbanSketchers) at one of their monthly sketching sessions. Run by artist KC Lee and his daughter, the group meets every third Sunday of the month to draw on location. Before sketching, KC Lee usually gives a short talk on the history of the spot, which is often a heritage building. Check the group's Facebook page to find out what's planned.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Chinatown is home to a couple of pricey, speakeasy-style cocktail bars as well as a cluster of stylish coffee joints. Sinking cold beers at the open-air restaurants around Jln Petaling night market is what many visitors quite rightly prefer to do. Many of the backpacker lodges also have bars, some, such as Reggae Mansion, on their roofs.

  oPS150COCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 2888; www.ps150.my; ground fl, 150 Jln Petaling; h6pm-2am Tue-Sat, 3-10pm Sun; DMaharajalela)

  The southern end of Petaling St's evolution into a hip hood is helped along by PS150, a cocktail bar concealed behind a fake toyshop in a building that was once a brothel. Inside, the dim red lights and vintage-style booths bring to mind the films of Wong Kar-Wai; the open-air courtyard and back bar are more-modern spaces.

  oOmakase + AppreciateCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/OmakaseAppreciate; basement, Bangunan Ming Annexe, 9 Jln Ampang; h5pm-1am Tue-Fri, 9pm-1am Sat; W; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  This cosy, retro cocktail bar is one of KL's top-secret drinking spots. The expert mixologists here each have their own menu of speciality cocktails or, if nothing appeals, ask them to create a drink tailored to your tastes. Part of the fun is finding the entrance: look for the sign saying 'no admittance'.

  oVCRCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 2330; www.vcr.my; 2 Jln Galloway; h8.30am-11pm; W; DHang Tuah)

  Set in an airy prewar shophouse, VCR serves first-rate coffee, excellent all-day breakfasts (RM19 to RM35) and desserts. The crowd is young and diverse, but anyone will feel welcome here. Behind the shop, check out Jln Sin Chew Kee, a photogenic row of colourful shophouses.

  oAku Cafe & GalleryCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2857 6887; www.oldchina.com.my; 1st fl, 8 Jln Panggong; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun; W; LRT Pasar Seni)

  This relaxed coffee haunt serves good hand-drip brews starting at RM10. There are also flavoured cold drinks such as orange, ginger and mint, plus iced coffee, cakes, desserts (try the pandan panna cotta), and light kopitiam-style meals. Exhibitions change on a monthly basis and there are some nice local craft souvenirs for sale.

  Keep climbing the stairs to find the contemporary-arts space Lostgens' ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/lostgens; 3rd fl, 8c Jln Panggong; h1-7pm Tue-Sun; LRT Pasar Seni) and, a floor above, the edgy performance space Findars.

  Chocha FoodstoreCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 1100; www.facebook.com/chocha.foodstore; 156 Jln Petaling; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun; DMaharajalela)

  The abandoned Mah Lian Hotel has been transformed into a multifunctional hipster's paradise. Behind the building's raw concrete and timber facade is a ground-floor cafe and events space with a sunny plant-filled courtyard and the original hotel tiles, where Chocha's 'tea sommelier' Youn serves an extensive selection of speciality brews. Coffee is handled by in-house coffee bar @addicted.

  There's also a menu of Malaysian-inspired dishes made with ingredients bought directly from farmers. Upstairs there's a wine bar and architect's office and there are plans to open a bike workshop and design bookshop in the coming months.

  BarlaiCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 7850; http://thebiggroup.co; 3 Jln Sin Chew Kee; h5pm-3am Mon-Fri, 3pm-3am Sat & Sun; W; DHang Tuah)

  Occupying the ground floor of a beautifully restored heritage building – the fab rental apartment Sekeping Sin Chew Kee is upstairs – this chilled bar is a sophisticated place to sip a lemongrass G&T or a bacon bourbon Bloody Mary. There are cosy nooks inside and a leafy courtyard garden outside.

  Moontree HouseCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.moontree-house.blogspot.com; 1st fl, 6 Jln Panggong; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon; W; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Apart from being a quiet space for a well-prepared hand-drip or siphon coffee in an old Chinatown shophouse, Moontree also sells cute handicrafts and feminist literature and is probably the best central place to make enquiries about KL's discreet lesbian scene.

  Coffee beans are mostly directly sourced and include the local Johor-grown Liberica and Peabody Liberica. The latter makes for a sweet and slightly pungent ice-dripped coffee.

  Koong Woh TongTEAHOUSE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kwt.my; 111 Jln Petaling; 8.45am-11pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  This little herbal drink shop is part of a Chinese chain that has spread into Southe
ast Asia. There are branches at either end of Petaling Street Market, with resplendent gold interiors and a range of jellies and refreshing traditional herbal drinks – try the Five Flower tea.

  Reggae BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/reggaechinatown; 158 Jln Tun HS Lee; h11am-3am; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Travellers gather in droves at this pumping bar in the thick of Chinatown, which has outdoor seats for those who’d like to catch the passing parade. There are beer promos, pool tables and pub grub served until late.

  3Entertainment

  MudTHEATRE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mudKL.com; Panggung Bandaraya, Jln Raja; tickets RM80; hperformances 3pm & 8.30pm; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  This lively musical show mixes a modern multicultural Malaysia theme with historical vignettes from KL's early days. The young, talented cast give it their all and there's some fun to be had with audience participation. It's staged in a beautiful historic theatre (DBKL City Theatre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Raja; LRT Masjid Jamek), the intimate auditorium based on the shape of a Malaysian kite.

  FindarsLIVE MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/FINDARS; 4th fl, 8c Jln Panggong; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Check the Facebook page of this edgy, graphic arts space for details of gigs by local and visiting musicians and performance artists – they often happen on the weekends. The quirky street-art-style cafe-bar is an installation in itself, complete with Darth Vader mask.

  MABA StadiumSTADIUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2078 0055; www.maba.com.my; 6 Jln Hang Jebat; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Check the MABA website to find out about matches held at the headquarters of the Malaysian Basketball Association. There's also a training court on the roof.

  7Shopping

  oGahara GalleriaCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ruzzgahara.com; National Textiles Museum, 26 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  This boutique at the National Textiles Museum sells pieces by the Malaysian label Ruzz Gahara. Batik artisans – many of them based in the villages of rural Kelantan – use traditional printing methods to create the textiles from which Ruzz Gahara's beautiful contemporary designs are made. And since the textiles are hand-printed, no two garments are exactly alike.

  Petaling Street MarketMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Petaling; h10am-10.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Malaysia’s relaxed attitude towards counterfeit goods is well illustrated at this heavily hyped night market bracketed by fake Chinese gateways. Traders start to fill Jln Petaling from midmorning until it is jam-packed with market stalls selling everything from fake Mulberry handbags to jackfruit. Visit in the afternoon if you want to take pictures or see the market without the crowds.

  Petaling Street Market | TOM BONAVENTURE/GETTY IMAGES ©

  House of RinpoANTIQUES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; C30, Dataran Underground, Merdeka Sq; h10am-6pm; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  In the underground mall at the southern end of Merdeka Sq is this small antique shop run as a hobby by affable Uncle Khoo. The quality of items varies but there are usually some good finds to be had among the ceramics, paintings, and daily-life items from the past.

  Junk BookstoreBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2078 3822; 78 Jln Tun HS Lee; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  One of KL's best secondhand bookshops, with thousands of titles piled high on a couple of jam-packed floors. Ask staff to show you their selection of antique local titles, but don't expect to get them for bargain prices!

  Chop Sang KeeARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 64 Jln Tun Perak; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  A photogenic rattan-cane and bamboo basket and furniture shop that has been in business since 1920. These days most items come from China.

  Kwong Yik SengARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2078 3620; 144 Jln Tun HS Lee; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Looking for traditional Chinese teapots, bowls or a kitsch ornament for your mantelpiece? Your search is over at this shop specialising in new and antique-style china and porcelain.

  Purple Cane Tea ArtsTEA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.purplecane.com.my; 11 Jln Sultan; h10am-9pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  One of several specialist tea shops in Chinatown where you can sample and buy Chinese teas (mostly Pu-erh) and all manner of tea-making paraphernalia.

  Basket ShopARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebasketshop.com.my; 10 Jln Panggong; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; LRT Pasar Seni)

  All kinds of bamboo and woven straw baskets and decorative boxes are to be found here, many of them handmade.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  CENTRAL MARKET

  Based in a beautiful 1920s art deco building, Central Market offers KL’s best selection of souvenirs, gifts and traditional crafts such as batik clothing and hangings, songket (fine cloth woven with silver and gold thread), wau bulan (moon kites) and baskets, as well as vintage items from daily life.

  Don't miss the fascinating private Museum of Ethnic Arts in the Annexe where most items are for sale; even if you’re not interested in buying, it’s fascinating to browse this extraordinary private collection of tribal arts from Borneo and ethnographic arts from as far afield as Tibet. Other top shops include the following:

  Asli Craft ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; G23 ground fl, main building, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-9.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni) Handmade indigenous items.

  Rhino ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; KB17 ground fl, main bldg, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; h9am-10.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni) Hand-painted clogs and handicrafts.

  Songket Sutera Asli ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; M53 mezzanine fl, main bldg, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-9.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni) Weavings and embroidery.

  Tanamera ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tanamera.com.my; G25 ground fl, main bldg, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-9.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni) Natural spa products.

  Wau Tradisi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; M51 mezzanine fl, main bldg, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-9.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni) Striking traditional kites.

  7Sports & Activities

  Sarang CookeryCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-210 0218; http://sarangcookery.com; 8 Jln Galloway; 4hr classes RM250; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri; DHang Tuah)

  Learn to cook four different Peranakan (Nonya), Malay or Indian dishes at these fun, hands-on cooking classes run by B&B owners Christina and Michael at one of their properties. Ingredients from the herb garden such as lemongrass, turmeric and basil are incorporated into the dishes, which are consumed at the end of the class in a sit-down meal.

  Chin Woo StadiumSWIMMING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2072 4602; www.chinwoo.org.my; Jln Hang Jebat; swimming adult/child RM5/2; h2-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun; LRT Pasar Seni)

  This historic sports stadium sits atop a hill overlooking Chinatown. The highlight here is its 50m outdoor pool. Note that all swimsuits must be tight-fitting, ie no baggy shorts even with an inner mesh lining, and you need a cap as well.

  Aziz Ma'asART

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %012-314 0443; [email protected]; Wariseni, lot 231 Bukit Nanas, Jln Ampang; 3 session courses RM480; DBukit Nanas)

  This innovative artist has his studio in the Wariseni complex where he teaches courses (three sessions of around three hours each) in traditional and innovative batik, applying the designs to wood and glass as well as fabric. Call or email Aziz to arrange a course.

  Simply EnakFOOD & DRINK

  (%017-287 8929; www.simplyenak.com; tours RM200-250)

  Daily tours to places such as Chow Kit and Petaling St to experience authentic Malaysian food with resident experts.

  Food Tour MalaysiaFOOD & DRINK

  (www.foodtourmalaysia.com; walking/driving tours RM110/160)

  Expert guides lead these walking tours around some of KL's best street-food and dining destinations. They also offer a full day
tour out to the foodie destination of Ipoh, plus food tours in Penang.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  VISIT KL GUIDED WALKS

  Visit KL offers two free guided walks in the Chinatown and Merdeka Sq areas.

  AKuala Lumpur Night Walk ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; h6.30-9pm Sat; LRT Masjid Jamek) Starting in Chinatown at the Arch Cafe on Jln Hang Kasturi, this tour loops past Masjid Jamek and Masjid India and through the packed streets of the bustling night market, tasting and sampling along the way, popping into old-school tailor shops and retro barbers.

  AKuala Lumpur Heritage Trail (Dataran Merdeka Heritage Walk; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; Merdeka Sq; h9-11.30am Mon, Wed & Sat; LRT Masjid Jamek) around Merdeka Sq, runs from 9am to 11.45am every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, starting at the KL City Gallery in the square

  Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern Kuala Lumpur

  Sights

  Eating

  Drinking & Nightlife