Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  Central MarketMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.centralmarket.com.my; Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-10pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  This 1930s art deco building (a former wet market) was rescued from demolition in the 1980s and transformed into a tourist-oriented arts-and-crafts centre. Nonetheless, there are some excellent shops, good restaurants, and the fascinating private Museum of Ethnic Arts ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2301 1468; 2nd fl, the Annexe, 10 Jln Hang Kasturi; h11am-7pm; LRT Pasar Seni) in the Annexe. The adjacent Kasturi Walk – the arch is a series of wau bulan (moon kites) – is bordered by handsome restored shophouses.

  Check the website for details of events that happen around the market.

  Chinatown Wet MarketMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Jln Tun HS Lee; h7am-1pm; LRT Pasir Seni)

  If you want your chicken freshly plucked, this is where to get it. The market is squished in darkened alleys between Jln Petaling and Jln Tun HS Lee and it's where locals shop for their groceries.

  Medan PasarSQUARE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  Pedestrianised Medan Pasar (which translates as Market Square) was once the heart of Chinatown. Kapitan Yap Ah Loy lived here, and in addition to holding the city's wet market, it was a place of brothels and illegal gambling dens (now long gone). In the centre stands an art deco clock tower built in 1937 to commemorate the coronation of King George VI.

  2Neighbourhood Walk

  Chinatown Architecture

  Start Masjid Jamek LRT Station

  End Petaling Street Market

  Length 1.6km; 1½ hours

  From the station head south down the new river embankment path running parallel to Jln Benteng; look back for a great view of 1Masjid Jamek with its newly uncovered steps down to the river. At the junction with Lr Ampang is 2Medan Pasar, site of KL’s original market square. In the southwestern corner of the square, stop to look at 3Cafe Old Market Square. Note the fine Dutch gables, yellow shutters and glassless windows of the building, one of three shophouses built by tin magnate Loke Yew in 1906.

  Where Medan Pasar meets Lr Pasar Besar you’ll see the 4OCBC Building, a graceful art deco structure built in 1938 for the Overseas Chinese Banking Company. Around the corner with Jln Tun HS Lee is 5MS Ally Company, a pharmacy in business since 1909.

  Cross Lr Pudu, turn right and, after 25m, duck left into an alley leading to the atmospheric 6Sin Sze Si Ya Temple. Exit the way you came in, cross the street and walk two blocks up to 7Central Market.

  Exit the market, turn left on to Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock, then right on to Jln Tun HS Lee. The shophouses along here are among Chinatown’s oldest; note the unique feature of a five-foot way (pavement) lower than the road level. On the south corner is the pale-yellow-painted art deco 8Lee Rubber Building.

  Opposite, next to the bright-red, incense-wreathed 9Guandi Temple, is Jln Sang Guna, a covered arcade housing Chinatown’s atmospheric awet market. Back on Jln Tun HS Lee pause to admire the bSri Mahamariamman Temple and to breathe in the sweet jasmine of the flower sellers outside.

  At the junction with Jln Sultan turn left, then right on to Jln Petaling. Further south, around the busy traffic roundabout of Bulatan Merdeka, you find the ornate ancestral cChan She Shu Yuen Clan Association Temple and, across Jln Stadium, the dGuan Yin Temple, dedicated to the goddess of mercy.

  Finish at eMaharajalela MRT station or return to Jln Petaling to browse the fPetaling Street Market.

  1Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

  Menara Kuala Lumpur Top Sight

  MAP GOOGLE MAP

  Merdeka Square Top Sight

  MAP GOOGLE MAP

  oKL Forest Eco ParkNATURE RESERVE

  (Taman Eko Rimba KL; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2026 4741; www.forestry.gov.my; h7am-6pm; gKL Tower)F

  Don't miss traversing the lofty canopy walkway set in this thick lowland dipterocarp forest covering 9.37 hectares in the heart of the city. The oldest protected jungle in Malaysia (gazetted in 1906), the park is commonly known as Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill), and is threaded through with short trails up from either Jln Ampang or Jln Raja Chulan. Pick up a basic map to the trails from the Forest Information Centre on Jln Raja Chulan.

  oMasjid JamekMOSQUE

  (Friday Mosque; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Jln Tun Perak; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-4pm Sat-Thu; LRT Masjid Jamek)F

  Gracefully designed in Mogul style by British architect AB Hubback, this onion-domed mosque is situated at the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers. At the time of research the surroundings were being landscaped as part of the River of Life project and the original steps down to the river reinstated, but by the time you read this, the renovations should be complete. You can visit the inside of the mosque, outside of prayer times; robes are available to borrow.

  This was the first brick mosque in Malaysia when completed in 1907 and the city's centre of Islamic worship until the opening of the National Mosque in 1965.

  Telekom MuseumLANDMARK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.muziumtelekom.com.my; Jln Raja Chulan; adult/child RM11/5; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  Housed in the beautifully renovated former telephone exchange building, this interesting museum has creatively designed displays on the history of communications in Malaysia, from the earliest stone carvings through the use of messenger elephants and carrier pigeons to the latest digital technology. Highlights include a section of the original switchboard from the 1920s with wires that had to be manually connected and photographs of the glamorous telephone operators of the 1950s who competed in the Miss Golden Voice contest.

  TOP SIGHT

  Sri Mahamariamman Temple

  This venerable Hindu shrine – the oldest in Malaysia and rumoured to be the richest – was founded by the Pillai family from the Indian state of Tamil Nadu in 1873. For 50 years it was their private shrine until opening to the public in the 1920s.

  Flower-garland vendors crowd the entrance and the temple is crowned by a five-tiered gopuram (temple tower), built in 1972 and covered in riotously colourful statues of Hindu deities. Passing through the gate symbolises the move from the material to the spiritual world.

  The main prayer hall has several shrines to different Hindu deities. The main shrine, found at the rear of the complex, is for Mariamman, the South Indian mother goddess, an incarnation of Durga, also known as Parvati. On the left side of the complex is a shrine to Ganesh, the elephant-headed god, and on the right is the shrine where Lord Murugan is worshipped.

  The temple also houses the silver chariot in which statuettes of Lord Murugan and his consorts are transported to Batu Caves during the Thaipusam festival in January or February each year. Non-Hindus are welcome to visit; leave your shoes at the entrance.

  Don't Miss...

  AGopuram

  AMain prayer hall

  Practicalities

  Sri Mahamariamman Temple

  5Eating

  5Chinatown & Around

  oMadras Lane HawkersHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Madras Lane; noodles RM5-6; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Enter beside the Guandi Temple to find this alley of hawker stalls. It’s best visited for breakfast or lunch, with standout operators including the one offering 10 types of yong tau fu (vegetables stuffed with tofu and a fish and pork paste). The bak kut teh (pork and medicinal herbs stew) and curry laksa stalls are also good.

  Cafe Old Market SquareCAFE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 2338; www.cafeoldmarketsquare.com; 2 Medan Pasar; mains RM2-14; h7am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  Come for a local breakfast of Hainanese coffee, soft-boiled eggs and kaya toast at this newly restored kopitiam serving the same dishes as it did over 80 years ago. The original wall tiles and mosaic floors have been scrubbed clean, historical photographs hung on the walls and the 2nd floor turned into a gallery space.

  Note the fine Dutch gables, yellow shutters and glassless windows of the building, one of three shophouses built by tin
magnate Loke Yew in 1906.

  Restoran SantaINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %019-269 9771; 11 Jln Tun HS Lee; chapatis RM1.50; h6.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  You won't find Christmas presents at this no-frills cafe but freshly made chapatis, well loved by the surrounding Indian community. Paired with a side dish of curried chickpeas or dhal, they are the perfect fast, cheap snack if you need a break any time of day.

  Bunn ChoonBAKERY$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/bunnchoonmy; 153 Jln Petaling; pastries RM1.40-2.50; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; DMaharajalela)

  It's worth coming early to Bunn Choon to sample their egg tarts warm from the oven. Fourth generation owner-baker Wong Kok Tong and his wife use the family's original egg-tart recipe, and have branched out to create charcoal-black-sesame and green-tea versions. If the egg tarts are sold out the pineapple sticks are pretty good, too.

  Lai FoongHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kedai Kopi Lai Foong, 138 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; noodles RM8; h7am-3.30pm; LRT Plaza Rakyat)

  The stall that lends its name to this old-school hawker cafe has been dishing up beef ball noodles since 1956; on Mondays you can ask for its special 'steak and balls' soup made with beef penis and testicles.

  Other stalls in the complex keep longer hours.

  Chee Cheong Fun StallCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Petaling & Jln Hang Lekir; noodles RM3-6; h7am-4pm Thu-Tue; v; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Just off Jln Petaling on Jln Hang Lekir, in the heart of the pedestrian area, this stall has been soothing early morning appetites for decades with melt-in-the-mouth chee cheong fun (rice noodles) doused with sweet and spicy sauces and a sprinkle of sesame seeds.

  Hon KeeCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 93 Jln Hang Lekir; congee RM6.50; h4am-3pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  A great Cantonese porridge place – frogs' leg porridge is their speciality.

  SangeethaINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2032 3333; 65 Lg Ampang; mains RM13.50-18; h8am-11pm; v; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  This well-run vegetarian restaurant serves lots of North Indian delights such as idli (savoury, soft, fermented-rice-and-lentil cakes) and masala dosa (rice-and-lentil crepes stuffed with spiced potatoes). From 4pm try the Punjabi chaat (snacks) including vegetable samosas and pani puri (stuffed dough balls) – perfect for afternoon munchies.

  Tang CityFOOD HALL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21-27 Jln Hang Lekir; mains RM5-12; h6am-11pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Set back from the open-air tables on the main drag of Jln Hang Lekir, this food court serves a good variety of inexpensive Chinese, Indian and Malay dishes and cold beers.

  KhukriNEPALI$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2072 0663; 1st fl, 26 Jln Tun Tan Siew Sin; mains RM9-13; h9am-9pm; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  A gathering point for Nepalis in KL, this simple restaurant serves authentic Nepalese cuisine including great momos (dumplings), steamed or fried, and spicy chicken and mutton dishes.

  Restoran Yusoof dan ZakhirINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2026 8685; Jln Hang Kasturi; mains RM3.50-8; h6am-11pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  This huge banana-yellow and palm-tree-green canteen opposite Central Market on the pedestrian street serves delicious mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food, and is perfect for a roti or dosa and curry sauce snack. The fresh fruit drinks are also good here.

  oMerchant's LaneFUSION$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 1736; www.facebook.com/merchantslane/home; level 1, 150 Jln Petaling; mains RM20-30; h11.30am-10pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9.30am-10pm Sat & Sun; W; DMaharajalela)

  Look for the narrow doorway at the end of the block for the stairs leading up to this high-ceilinged charmer of a cafe with a gorgeous, plant-filled outdoor terrace. The vibe is relaxed, the staff young, hip and friendly and the food a very tasty mash-up of Eastern and Western dishes, such as Italian chow mein.

  Kim Lian KeeCHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2032 4984; www.facebook.com/KimLianKee; 49 Jln Petaling; mains RM15-35; h11am-11pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Kim Lian Kee has been serving some of the city's best Hokkien mee since 1927, when Ong Kim Lian arrived in KL from Fujian, China, and opened his first noodle stall in the city. Choose a table upstairs for aircon and a view of Petaling Street Market, or sit downstairs, alley-side. There is also a stall at Lot 10 Hutong.

  LOKL Coffee CoINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://loklcoffee.com; 30 Jln Tun HS Lee; mains RM16-30; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun; W; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  From its clever name and slick design to its tasty twists on comfort foods such as deep-fried Hainanese meatloaf sandwiches and dessert toasties, LOKL ticks all the right boxes. Also does great breakfasts (8am to 11am).

  There's an internal courtyard with outdoor seating at the back – part of the hostel BackHome, to which the cafe is attached.

  Ikan PanggangHAWKER$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %019-315 9448; Jln Hang Lekir; mains RM15; h5-11pm Tue-Sun; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Tuck into spicy fish and seafood dishes and luscious chicken wings from this stall labelled only Ikan Panggang (which means grilled fish) outside Hong Leong Bank. Order ahead: it generally takes 20 minutes for your foil-wrapped pouch of seafood to cook, allowing time to explore the market.

  Old China CaféMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2072 5915; www.oldchina.com.my; 11 Jln Balai Polis; mains RM10-43; h11.30am-10.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Housed in an old guild hall of a laundry association, this long-running restaurant continues to not only conjure retro charm but also serve good-value Peranakan food. Try the beef rendang, the succulent Nonya fried chicken, and tasty appetisers such as the top hats (small pastries shaped like a hat and stuffed with veggies).

  Precious Old ChinaMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2273 7372; www.oldchina.com.my; mezzanine fl, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; mains RM13-46; h11am-10pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Run by the owners of Old China Café, this restaurant inside Central Market has an upscale, Shanghai-1930s look, with lacquered chairs and pricey porcelain on display, and serves similar, excellent Southeast Asian and Nonya dishes. Try the bitter gourd soup for something different. The restaurant also functions as a bar, if you just want a drink.

  WINS BoulangerieBAKERY$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 2288; www.facebook.com/winsboulangerie; 9 Jln Tun HS Lee; breakfasts & sandwiches RM18; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  The smell of freshly baked bread wafts into the street. The vast array of loaves, baguettes, cakes and pastries, artfully arranged on shelves and in crates, are a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. A good place for a baked-goods based breakfast or a satisfyingly 'giant' lunchtime sandwich.

  Cha Bou KitchenCHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2272 3090; www.purplecane.com.my; 1 Jln Maharajalela; mains RM23-69; h11am-10pm; DMaharajalela)

  Tucked behind the Chinese Assembly Hall, Cha Bou uses tea as an ingredient in most of its dishes – it's part of the Purple Cane family of tea shops and restaurants. Intriguing specials include green tea curry chicken, vegetables with oolong tea and beef simmered in lychee tea.

  Malaya HainanMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %019-329 7899; lot 16, section 24, Jln Panggong; mains RM9-13; h10am-10pm; LRT Pasar Seni)

  It's good to see this long-shuttered mock-Tudor-meets-the-tropics post office revamped as an appealing restaurant with a choice of breezy open-air and retro-themed indoor dining areas. Pick from a good range of colonial Hainanese and Nonya dishes such as roast chicken, sambal prawns and sweet-sour fish.

  TOP SIGHT

  Masjid Jamek

  Chinatown’s Muslim population prays at this beautiful onion-domed mosque designed by British architect AB Hubback, who sought inspiration from the Moghul mosques of northern India. Constructed in 1907 at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers, it was the first brick mosque in Malaysia and the cit
y's centre of Islamic worship until the opening of the National Mosque in 1965.

  An extensive relandscaping of the mosque's surroundings is under way as part of the River of Life project. The original steps at the back of the mosque, once used to access the building by boat, have been uncovered and reinstated. They form an elegant addition to the view of the mosque from the adjoining riverbank, which has also been done-up as part of the project. A pedestrian bridge will link Masjid Jamek with Merdeka Square, while the entrance to the mosque will be fronted by a landscaped plaza with shaded areas and fountains.

  Visitors are welcome outside prayer times, but shoes should be removed and women should cover their heads, legs and shoulders; robes are available to borrow.

  Don't Miss

  APrayer hall

  ASteps down to the river

  Practicalities

  Masjid Jamek

  5Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

  Canteen By Chef AduMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chefaduamran.com; National Textiles Museum, Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; mains RM13-25; h9am-6pm; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  You'll be happy to linger over coffee in this serene space, styled with mismatched antique furniture, wood-cut screens and fabulous textiles. MasterChef Malaysia judge Chef Adu's new cafe specialises in dishes from his native state of Johor, such as laksa Johor and soto ayam Johor (a yellow spicy chicken soup), and also does a mean rendang cottage pie.