Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Read online

  This, one of BA's classic heladerías (ice-cream parlors), was founded by the Italian Olivotti family in 1957 and gets busy with the post-theater crowds late into the night. Try the dulce de leche, made using a process which involves boiling dulce leche (sweetened milk) for 14 to 16 hours.

  El CuartitoPIZZA$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4816-1758; Talcahuano 937; slices AR$25-31, pizzas AR$135-200; h12:30pm-1am Sun & Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; bLínea D Tribunales)

  In a hurry? Order your slice of pizza and eat it at the counter (el mostrador) standing up. Not only is it cheaper and quicker this way, but you get a good view of the old sports posters and soccer shirts on the walls of this traditional, local restaurant. The empanadas are great here, too – try the atún (tuna).

  Take a seat at a table to order from the full menu.

  Aramburu BisMODERN ARGENTINE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4304-5697; www.aramburubis.com.ar; Humberto Primero 1207; mains AR$195-210, tasting menu AR$650; h12:30-3pm & 8:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat; bLínea E San José)

  Just around the corner from Aramburu is this casual bistro (or Bis), serving a delectable menu of steaks, fish, risotto, lamb and the like, all exquisitely executed. The pulpería (country store) style interior is nice, too. Afterwards head downstairs to Aramburu Ünder for a cocktail.

  Parrilla PeñaPARRILLA$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4371-5643; www.parrillapenia.url.ph; Rodríguez Peña 682; mains AR$150-370; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat; bLínea D Callao)

  This simple, traditional, long-running parrilla is well-known for its excellent quality meats and generous portions. The service is fast and efficient and it’s great value. Also on offer are homemade pastas, salads and milanesas (breaded steaks), along with several tasty desserts and a good wine list.

  ChiquínPARRILLA$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4373-5163; www.chiquin.com.ar; Sarmiento 1599; mains AR$142-245; hnoon-3am; bLínea B Callao)

  A local mainstay for 90 years, Chiquín is an excellent place to safely take, say, your parents. It’s a large, comfortable restaurant with a cozy and classic atmosphere (including hanging hams). Dressed-up staff are efficient, which is great because this place can bustle – even at 1am on a Saturday night. The best choices here are steak and pasta.

  Plaza AsturiasSPANISH$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4382-7334; Av de Mayo 1199; mains AR$120-350; h11:30am-5pm & 7pm-1am Sun & Tue-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat; bLínea A Lima)

  This old-fashioned Spanish restaurant draws in a regular midday crowd with its set lunch (AR$195), which includes a main dish, coffee and a glass of wine. Otherwise, the regular menu features staples such as chorizo, ham and potato casserole, and pasta, as well as more adventurous dishes like cazuela de mariscos, a seafood stew rich with mussels, garlic and herbs.

  oAramburuMODERN ARGENTINE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4305-0439; www.arambururesto.com.ar; Salta 1050; 18-course menu AR$1800; h8:30-11pm Tue-Sat; bLínea E San Jose)

  Chef Gonzalo Aramburu’s 18-course ‘molecular’ meal is astounding; each artistically created plate is just a few bites of gastronomic delight. Expect enlightening tastes, textures and smells, plus unique presentations – all will translate into a highly memorable dining experience. Located in the edgy but up-and-coming neighborhood of Montserrat.

  BUENOS AIRES' CARTONEROS

  You'll see them mostly at night, hunched over at the curb, picking through the garbage and pushing loaded-down carts. These are some of Buenos Aires' poorest citizens, the cartoneros (cardboard collectors).

  It's estimated that around 20,000 cartoneros rummage through Buenos Aires' trash heaps; some are even accredited by the city and wear uniforms. They sort through the city's 5000 daily tonnes of waste, collecting cardboard, paper, metal, plastic, glass – anything they can sell by the kilo to the depositos (recycling companies). They stake out their territory, perhaps about 15 city blocks, and are occasionally forced to pay police bribes.

  While most cartoneros work independently, some work for neighborhood cooperatives that pay them a regular wage and organize vaccinations. Some cooperatives even provide child care for parents who go off on their nightly rounds. In the poorest families, however, even the young children have to work, and some cartoneros are in their 50s and 60s.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  This neighborhood is not known for its drinking holes, but there are a few atmospheric spots where you can toast the town while the politicos scurry past on the sidewalks.

  oLos GalgosBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4371-3561; www.facebook.com/LosGalgosBarNotable/; Av Callao 501; mains AR$170-250; h7am-7pm Mon, to 1am Tue-Sat; bLínea B Callao)

  This classic neighborhood bar – formerly frequented by the neighborhood's elderly señores – has been immaculately restored and transformed into a sophisticated bar and restaurant serving modern Argentine food. It's open all day, for breakfast, lunch, merienda (afternoon tea) and dinner. Come from 6pm for an expertly mixed cocktail in the candlelight accompanied by a picada (shared appetizer plate) of meats, olives and cheeses.

  El Gato NegroTEAHOUSE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4374-1730; Av Corrientes 1669; h9am-10pm Mon, to 11pm Tue, to midnight Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 3-11pm Sun; bLínea B Callao)

  Tea-lined wooden cabinets and a spicy aroma welcome you to this pleasant little sipping paradise. Enjoy imported cups of coffee or tea, along with breakfast and dainty sandwiches de miga (thin, crustless sandwiches, traditionally eaten at tea time). Imported teas and coffees are sold in bulk, and a range of exotic herbs and spices are also on offer.

  Los 36 BillaresBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4122-1500; www.los36billares.com.ar; Av de Mayo 1271; portion pizza AR$18-32, empanadas AR$23-28; h7am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, to 4am Sat, to 1am Sun; bLínea A Lima)

  Dating from 1894, this is one of the city’s most historic cafe-bars and serves a good selection of pizzas and empanadas. As its name implies, it’s big on billiard tables (check out the basement). Also hosts tango shows (both music-only concerts and dance performances) in the 60-seat back theater.

  3Entertainment

  Café de los AngelitosTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4952-2320; www.cafedelosangelitos.com; Av Rivadavia 2100; show from US$90, show & dinner from US$130; hcafe 8am-midnight; bLínea A Congreso)

  Originally called Bar Rivadavia, this cafe was once the haunt of poets, musicians and even criminals, which is why a police commissioner jokingly called it los angelitos (the angels) in the early 1900s. As well as being an elegant hangout for a coffee or tea, come evening time Los Angelitos puts on one of the best tango shows in Buenos Aires.

  The performers dress in top-notch costumes and use interesting props, such as drapes and moving walls. They also dance to modern tunes, including those by local band Bajofondo, and despite a nightclub feel at times – especially due to the lighting – it’s all tastefully and creatively done. The stage is well set up (the musicians are on a different level, out of the way but well in sight) and everyone gets a good view.

  El BesoTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4953-2794; http://elbeso.com.ar/; Riobamba 416, 1st fl; bLínea B Callao)

  This small, intimate dance salon hosts various different milongas (tango events); the most popular is Milonga Cachirulo on Tuesdays from 9pm to 3am. The Cachirulo attracts some very good dancers – you should be confident of your skills if you plan to take to the floor. On Friday nights, El Beso hosts La Marshall Milonga Gay (https://lamarshallmilonga.com.ar) from 10:30pm to 4am.

  Centro Cultural Ricardo RojasARTS CENTER

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4954-5521; www.rojas.uba.ar; Av Corrientes 2038; bLínea B Callao)

  Part of the Universidad de Buenos Aires (UBA), this exceptionally good cultural center has a wide range of affordable classes (in Spanish), including in dance, music, photography, theater and film, as well as language courses and a program of concerts, theater and dance performances.

>   Teatro San MartínTHEATER

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4375-5018; www.complejoteatral.gob.ar; Av Corrientes 1530; bLínea B Uruguay)

  This major venue has several auditoriums (the largest seats over 1000 people) and showcases international cinema, theater, dance and classical music, covering conventional and more unusual events. Recent renovations saw the theater close in 2016; check the website for updates on the progress of the works and future performance schedules.

  Tango PorteñoTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4124-9400; www.tangoporteno.com.ar; Cerrito 570; show from US$28, show & dinner from US$120; bLínea D Tribunales)

  Staged in a renovated art-deco theater, this tango show features snippets of old footage interspersed with plenty of athletic (and at times sensual) dancing. There’s an interesting blindfold number and the orchestra is excellent. There's a complimentary tango class before the show.

  Teatro Paseo la PlazaTHEATER

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6320-5300; www.paseolaplaza.com.ar; Av Corrientes 1660; bLínea B Callao)

  Located in a small and pleasant outdoor shopping mall, this complex features several theater halls that run both classic and contemporary productions, including tango, theater and comedy.

  Teatro AvenidaCLASSICAL MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4812-6369; www.balirica.org.ar; Av de Mayo 1222; bLínea A Lima)

  This historic theater dating from 1908 originally staged mostly Spanish plays, including Federico Garcia Lorca's Bodas de Sangre in 1933. Today the Avenida's biggest strength is opera, particularly productions by the Buenos Aires Lirica.

  Espacio INCAA GaumontCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4371-3050; www.facebook.com/EspacioIncaa/; Av Rivadavia 1635; tickets AR$30; bLínea A Congreso)

  Screens mostly Argentinian and other South American films.

  Cosmos-UBACINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4953-5405; www.cosmos.uba.ar; Av Corrientes 2046; bLínea B Pasteur)

  Often shows retrospectives, documentaries, foreign film cycles and art-house movies.

  7Shopping

  Av Corrientes has a number of discount bookstores and although most of the publications are in Spanish, it’s fun to wander around and sift through the bargain bins. You'll also find a few well-stocked record stores on Av Corrientes, so if you're keen to take home a tango CD this is the place to look.

  ZivalsMUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Zivals/; Av Callao 395; h9:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat; bLínea B Callao)

  This is one of the better music stores in town, especially when it comes to tango, folk, jazz and classical music. Listening stations are a big plus, and there are also books for sale.

  San Telmo

  Sights

  Eating

  Drinking & Nightlife

  Entertainment

  Shopping

  Sports & Activities

  San Telmo

  Neighborhood Top Five

  1Feria de San Telmo Jostling with fellow shoppers at the Sunday fair, where vendors sell all manner of goods, and buskers and tango dancers compete for your spare change.

  2Plaza Dorrego Taking a break at this atmospheric and historic square – when it's not Sunday.

  3El Zanjón de Granados Exploring the reconstructed tunnels at this unique site.

  4Museo Histórico Nacional Getting up to speed on the history of Argentina's fight for independence at this museum in Parque Lezama.

  5Pasaje de la Defensa Strolling cobbled streets and taking in the old-time atmosphere at places such as this former conventillo (tenement house).

  Explore: San Telmo

  Everyone is drawn to Plaza Dorrego, the heart and soul of San Telmo. It's a nice leafy place to snag an outdoor table under an umbrella and have a coffee or full meal (though on Sundays the feria takes over and tables disappear). Sometimes tango dancers provide entertainment for a few pesos. Keep a good hold of your bag, just in case.

  Generally everything of interest is reachable by walking in this neighborhood; keep a look out for street art as you go. From Plaza Dorrego you can stroll up or down the main drag of Defensa, window-shopping for pricey antiques or trendy new trinkets along the way. Several museums are also on or just off this street. If you head south, you'll hit Parque Lezama, a local park where families hang out at the playground and lovers smooch on benches. Be sure to take a stroll down elegant Av Caseros to admire the architecture of the buildings lining the block between Defensa and Bolívar; you could stop here for a meal or a drink.

  Heading north, you can be in the Plaza de Mayo area in 15 minutes, or take a bus south down busy Av Almirante Brown to La Boca.

  Local Life

  AMarkets Explore the Mercado de San Telmo to get a dose of history and a feel for how the locals buy their meats and vegetables.

  AHangouts Classic cafes such as Bar Plaza Dorrego, Bar El Federal and La Poesia drip with traditional atmosphere and old-time locals taking in their morning medialunas (croissants) or afternoon coffee breaks.

  AGames Like chess? Then head to Parque Lezama and find the cluster of chess tables there – and, if you dare, make a challenge.

  Getting There & Away

  ABus Take bus 59 from Recoleta and Palermo; bus 29 from La Boca, Plaza de Mayo and Palermo.

  ASubte Línea C connects the western edge of San Telmo with the Center, Congreso and Retiro.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  On Sundays the feria (street market) is full-on, which means tonnes of people are visiting and you'll need to watch for pickpockets. On the other hand, it's the liveliest time to be in the neighborhood and the museums and most stores are all open. For more peace, visit San Telmo from Tuesday to Saturday (many places close on Monday), especially to sit at one of Plaza Dorrego's outdoor tables.

  Best Museums

  A Museo de Arte Moderno

  A Museo Histórico Nacional

  A Museo de Arte Contemporáneo

  Best Places to Eat

  A Café San Juan

  A El Refuerzo Bar Almacen

  A Cafe Rivas

  A Hierbabuena

  Best Places to Drink

  A Bar Plaza Dorrego

  A Doppelgänger

  A Bar Británico

  TOP SIGHT

  Plaza Dorrego

  At the heart of San Telmo is Plaza Dorrego, normally a peaceful little plaza strewn with locals and tourists sitting at tables under their umbrellas. A few hippie street vendors hawk their wares on the sidewalks while tango dancers occasionally perform for a few pesos.

  Feria de San Telmo

  Come Sundays the plaza and Calle Defensa become packed with stalls at the weekly Feria de San Telmo. It's a bit of a crazy scene, but worth experiencing nonetheless.

  Originally started in 1970 as an antiques fair, the feria is now a craft market offering all manner of items – jewelry, souvenirs, quality artwork, vintage clothing, old collectibles, handmade crafts, leather items and much more. Defensa is closed to traffic from Plaza de Mayo to Av San Juan and lined with hundreds of stalls. Street performers, from metallic human statues to candombe drumming groups to professional tango dancers, entertain the crowds, while sidewalk tables provide welcome breaks.

  The feria is a tight and crowded scene, so be prepared to bump into people – and watch your bag carefully. Haggling isn't essential and most vendors won't budge much on price, but you can try your luck and attempt some friendly negotiation if you're buying several items.

  Historic Plaza

  Plaza Dorrego is the city's second-oldest plaza and was originally a pit stop for caravans bringing supplies into the city from around Argentina. At the turn of the 19th century it became a public square, surrounded by colonial buildings that survive to this day.

  Don't Miss

  AFeria de San Telmo

  ABar Plaza Dorrego

  AStreet performers

  AColonial buildings

  Practicalities

  A MAP GOOGLE MAP

  Ag24, 2
9, 111

  ALEXANDR VOROBEV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  2Neighborhood Walk

  Historical Saunter

  Start El Zanjón de Granados

  End Bar Británico

  Length 1.5km; 2½ hours

  Time your walk to tour the amazing series of tunnels and brick archways of 1El Zanjón de Granados, which formed the foundations of BA’s oldest homes.

  The decaying white-stucco-and-brick 2Casa Mínima at San Lorenzo 380 is a good example of the narrow-lot style known as casa chorizo (sausage house). Barely 2m wide, the lot was reportedly an emancipation gift from slave owners to their former bondsmen.

  Head south on Defensa and stop at the lively 3El Desnivel for a classic Argentinian steak feast. And don’t miss strolling through the covered 4Mercado de San Telmo, which has been running since 1897; look out for the butcher's stall where the meat is cut to order.

  Back on Defensa you’ll soon reach the heart of the barrio, 5Plaza Dorrego. From Monday to Saturday it’s a relatively peaceful place, but come Sunday the lively 6Feria de San Telmo sets up in the plaza and surrounding streets.

  Stop to have a look at the patios and rooms of 7Pasaje de la Defensa, a microcosm of San Telmo's history. Originally built for the wealthy Ezeiza family in around 1880, the building later became a conventillo (tenement house) that was home to 32 families.