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  A block south, the 8Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires offers cutting-edge exhibitions, along with works by well-known Argentine artists. Next door is the 9Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Buenos Aires, great for abstract art.

  The freeway location of the aClub Atlético Memorial is simply awful – but so is its history. This is one of the secret detention centers where thousands of 'disappeared' people were tortured and killed during the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983. There isn’t much left beyond an excavated basement where a three-story building used to be.

  Amid San Telmo's European-style buildings, it's something of a surprise to see the bIglesia Ortodoxa Rusa (Russian Orthodox Church) – a reminder of the importance of European immigration in the neighborhood's history.

  Stroll through the large cParque Lezama to the dMuseo Histórico Nacional for an insight into Argentina's history. And finally, rest your tired feet at the atmospheric corner eBar Británico. Snag a prized window seat and order a drink – you deserve it.

  1Sights

  The central thoroughfares of this neighborhood are Balcarce and Defensa; they're where you'll find most of the sights. As well as visiting the museums, take some time to wander around the neighborhoods streets, parks and squares.

  Plaza Dorrego Top Sight

  MAP GOOGLE MAP

  oFeria de San TelmoMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Defensa; h10am-6pm Sun; g10, 22, 29, 45, 86)

  On Sundays, San Telmo’s main drag is closed to traffic and the street is a sea of both locals and tourists browsing craft stalls, waiting at vendors’ carts for freshly squeezed orange juice, poking through the antique glass ornaments on display on Plaza Dorrego, and listening to street performances by myriad music groups. Runs from Av San Juan to Plaza de Mayo. It’s a tight and crowded scene, so be prepared to bump into people and watch your bag carefully.

  Decorative bottles at a market in San Telmo | PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET ©

  oMercado de San TelmoMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; btwn Defensa & Bolívar, Carlos Calvo & Estados Unidos block; h8:30am-8pm; bLínea C Independencia)

  This market was built in 1897 by Juan Antonio Buschiazzo, the same Italian-born Argentine architect who designed Cementerio de la Recoleta. It occupies the inside of an entire city block, though you wouldn’t be able to tell just by looking at the modest sidewalk entrances. The wrought-iron interior (note the beautiful original ceiling) makes it one of BA’s most atmospheric markets; locals shop here for fresh produce and meat. Peripheral antique stalls offer old treasures.

  El Zanjón de GranadosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-3002; www.elzanjon.com.ar; Defensa 755; 1hr tour Mon-Fri AR$200, 40min Sun AR$160; htours noon, 2pm & 3pm Mon-Fri, every 30min 11am-6pm Sun; bLínea C Independencia)

  One of the more unique places in BA is this amazing urban architectural site. A series of old tunnels, sewers and cisterns (built from 1730 onwards) were constructed above a river tributary and provided the base for one of BA’s oldest settlements, which later became a family mansion and then tenement housing and some shops.

  The Zanjón is the realized dream of Jorge Eckstein, who found these ruins in 1986 after purchasing land for a business project and then spent years renovating them into what you see today. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s history; meticulously reconstructed brick by brick and very attractively lit, this site also contains several courtyards and even a watchtower. There are a few relics on display in the various halls and rooms, but the highlights are the spaces themselves.

  Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Buenos AiresMUSEUM

  (MACBA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5263-9988; www.macba.com.ar; Av San Juan 328; AR$60, Wed AR$40; hnoon-7pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 11am-7:30pm Sat & Sun; g24, 29, 111)

  Art lovers shouldn’t miss this fine museum, which specializes in geometric abstraction drawn from the technology-driven world that surrounds us today (think architecture, maps and computers). So rather than traditional paintings, you’ll see large, colorful and minimalist pieces meant to inspire reflection.

  Museo Histórico NacionalMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-7540; www.cultura.gob.ar/museos/museo-historico-nacional/; Defensa 1600; AR$20; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun, tours in English noon Wed, Thu & Fri; g29)

  Located in Parque Lezama is the city’s national historical museum. It’s dedicated to Argentina’s revolution of May 25, 1810, though there is some coverage of precolonial times too. There are several portraits of presidents and other major figures of the time, along with a beautifully lit generals’ room. Peek into the re-created version of José de San Martín’s bedroom – military hero and liberator of Argentina (along with other South American countries).

  Exhibit highlights include an Argentine flag taken by General Belgrano to Alto Perú (now Bolivia) in 1812 and, best of all, a sword belonging to San Martín himself, now guarded by grenadiers; you'll need to walk through a tunnel displaying other revolutionary heroes' swords, lit up like a nightclub with piped-in music, to reach it.

  Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos AiresMUSEUM

  (MAMBA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-6919; www.museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gob.ar; Av San Juan 350; AR$20, Tue free; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; g29, 24, 111)

  Housed in a former tobacco warehouse, this spacious, multistory museum shows off the works of (mostly) Argentine contemporary artists. Expect exhibitions showcasing everything from photography to industrial design, and from figurative to conceptual art. There’s also an auditorium and gift shop.

  Basílica de Nuestra Señora del RosarioCHURCH

  (Santo Domingo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Defensa 422; h7am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 6am-7:30pm Sat, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sun; bLínea E Bolívar)F

  Marking the approach into San Telmo, this 18th-century Dominican church and monastery has a long and colorful history. On the left tower you’ll see replicas of cannons launched against British troops holed up here during the invasion of 1807; the basilica displays flags that were captured from the British. In front of the church is the mausoleum of General Belgrano, the independence hero best known as the creator of the Argentinian flag.

  Pasaje de la DefensaNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Defensa 1179; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sun; g29, 24, 111)

  Originally built for the Ezeiza family in around 1880, this building later became a conventillo (tenement house) that was home to 32 families. These days, it’s a charmingly worn building with antique shops clustered around atmospheric leafy patios.

  Parque LezamaPARK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Defensa & Av Brasil; g29, 24, 111)

  Scruffy Parque Lezama was once thought to be the site of Buenos Aires’ founding in 1536, but archaeological teams have refuted the hypothesis. Today’s green park hosts old chess-playing gentlemen, bookworms toting mate (traditional Argentine tea) gourds and teenagers kissing on park benches.

  Iglesia Ortodoxa RusaCHURCH

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.iglesiarusa.org.ar; Av Brasil 315; guided tours AR$30; g29)

  The striking late-19th-century Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa (Russian Orthodox Church) on the north side of Parque Lezama is the work of architect Alejandro Christophersen and was built from materials shipped over from St Petersburg. Stop by to admire the church from outside; the doors are closed to the public except for once a month (usually the second Sunday) when guided tours are given at 3:30pm – call ahead.

  Museo Nacional de la Historia del TrajeMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-8427; https://museodeltraje.cultura.gob.ar/; Chile 832; h3-7pm Tue-Sun; bLínea C Independencia)F

  This small clothing museum is always changing its wardrobe. You can hit upon wedding outfits from the late 1800s, popular fashions from the early 1900s or even clothing worn by travelers on the Silk Road. If you’re lucky, accessories such as elaborate hair combs, top hats, antique eyeglasses and elegant canes might be on display.

  Museo Argentino del TítereMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;
%011-4307-6917; www.facebook.com/museoargentinodeltitere/; Estados Unidos 802; hvary widely, call ahead; c; bLínea C Independencia)F

  This puppet museum has inexpensive weekend shows that will amuse the little ones.

  Facultad de IngenieríaNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Paseo Colón 850; g29, 24, 111)

  This neoclassical building is the engineering school for the Universidad de Buenos Aires. It was originally built for the Fundación Eva Perón and is an oddball landmark once described by Gerald Durrell as ‘a cross between the Parthenon and the Reichstag.’ In front of the building and in the middle of Av Paseo Colón is Plazoleta Olazábal, a tiny park which features Rogelio Yrurtia’s masterful sculpture Canto al Trabajo.

  SAN TELMO: A BRIEF HISTORY

  San Telmo is known for the violent street fighting that took place when British troops, at war with Spain, invaded the city in 1806. They occupied it until the following year, when covert porteño resistance became open counter-attack. British forces advanced up narrow Defensa, but the impromptu militia drove the British back to their ships. Victory gave porteños confidence in their ability to stand apart from Spain, even though the city’s independence had to wait another three years.

  After this San Telmo became a fashionable, classy neighborhood, but in the late 19th century a yellow-fever epidemic hit and drove the rich onto higher ground, west and north of the present-day Microcentro. As European immigrants began to pour into the city, many older mansions in San Telmo became conventillos (tenements) to house poor families. It was in the shared patios of these conventillos that tango music first emerged, a blend of the musical traditions of the immigrant neighborhood.

  5Eating

  San Telmo has a wide range of eateries to choose from. Get a good-value meat fix at an old-school parrilla (steakhouse), soak in the atmosphere at a traditional neighborhood bar or splash out at one of the barrio's fine-dining spots.

  Lo de FreddyPARRILLA$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Carlos Calvo 471; choripan AR$35, vaciopan AR$80; h1:30-5:30pm & 8-11:30pm Mon-Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat & Sun; g29)

  Near the entrance to San Telmo market is this hole-in-the wall parrilla serving some of the best-value choripanes (sausage sandwiches) and vaciopanes (beef sandwiches) in town. It's a rustic joint with just one bench and a few sidewalk stools (which are likely to be occupied by the regulars), but for a filling feed it can't be beat.

  El Banco RojoINTERNATIONAL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4040-2411; https://elbancorojo.wordpress.com/; Bolívar 866; mains AR$70-85; hnoon-12:30am Tue-Sat, to 11:30pm Sun; bLínea C Independencia)

  A San Telmo youth magnet, this trendy joint serves up sandwiches, falafels, burgers and tacos, as well as a range of beers and spirits. Try the empanada de cordero (lamb turnover) if they have it. This place, Banco Rojo's new digs (one block over from the old one), has more space to eat-in but the same grungy vibe.

  La PoesiaARGENTINE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-7340; Chile 502; mains AR$57-200; h8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; bLínea C Independencia)

  Step back in time at this traditional cafe. Originally a gathering place for artists and poets, this small corner spot still retains its bohemian atmosphere with live music recitals on Thursday and Friday. Snack on a turkey sandwich or milanesa (beef cutlet) and relive the past.

  Bar El FederalARGENTINE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-7328; Carlos Calvo 599; mains AR$57-200; h8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; bLínea C Independencia)

  Dating from 1864, this historical bar is a classic, with original wooden features, black-and-white floor tiles, and an eye-catching antique bar and cash register. The specialties here are sandwiches (especially turkey) and picadas (shared appetizer plates), but there are also lots of pastas, salads, desserts and tall mugs of icy beer.

  Abuela PanVEGETARIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-4936; http://abuelapan.com/; Chile 518; mains AR$100; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sun; v; bLínea C Independencia)

  Tiny but atmospheric spot with just a handful of tables serving vegetarian and vegan food. The specials change daily – expect things like aubergine milanesas, stuffed cannelloni, tacos and lentils.

  oEl Refuerzo Bar AlmacenARGENTINE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-3013; www.facebook.com/elrefuerzobaralmacen/; Chacabuco 872; mains AR$150-200; h10am-2am Tue-Sun; bLínea C Independencia)

  The small dining room fills up quickly at this almacén-style restaurant. There's an excellent wine list to match the menu of top-notch dishes written on blackboards on the walls – think cured meats, cheeses, homemade pastas and bistro-style casseroles. It's a casual, friendly place that's popular with locals.

  If you can't get in for dinner, try El Refuerzo Provisiones ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-0023; www.facebook.com/RefuerzoProvisiones/; Estados Unidos 758; mains AR$150-200; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; bLínea C Independencia) around the corner, which serves the same menu.

  El DesnivelPARRILLA$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-9081; Defensa 855; mains AR$120-280; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun, 7pm-midnight Mon; bLínea C Independencia)

  This long-running, low-key parrilla joint packs in both locals and tourists, serving them treats such as chorizo sandwiches and bife de lomo (tenderloin steak). The delicious smells from the sizzling grill out front are torturous as you wait for a table – get here early, especially on weekends.

  Pulpería QuilapánARGENTINE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4307-6288; pulperiaquilapan.com; Defensa 1344; set menu AR$120-220, mains AR$140-230; h9am-1am Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun; W; g29)

  Get a taste of life in the rural pampas without leaving the city at Pulpería Quilapán, a former colonial-era house that has been transformed into the kind of bar that's traditionally frequented by gauchos. Traditional Argentine meats, pastas and stews are served; at AR$120 for a main course, drink and dessert, the menú ejecutivo is a good deal.

  Check the social calendar online for the week's events, which might include all-you-can-eat gnocchi and bingo nights. There's also a great little almacén (grocery store) selling cheeses, jams, wines from small vineyards, mates and pingüinos (penguin-shaped wine jugs).

  Casal de CatalunyaCATALAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-0191; www.casal.org.ar; Chacabuco 863; mains AR$180-320; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu, till 1am Fri & Sat, noon-4pm Sun; bLínea C Independencia)

  Located in BA’s Catalan cultural center is this excellent Catalan restaurant. Big on seafood, its specialties run from garlic shrimp to fresh mussels and clams in tomato sauce to fish of the day with aioli. Other typical dishes include jamón serrano (prosciutto-like ham), seafood paella and suckling pig.

  Gran Parrilla del PlataPARRILLA$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-8858; www.parrilladelplata.com; Chile 594; mains AR$170-230; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; bLínea C Independencia)

  There’s nothing too fancy at this traditional corner parrilla (one of the best in San Telmo) – just old-time atmosphere and generous portions of tasty grilled meats at decent prices. There are also pastas for that unfortunate vegetarian who might get dragged along.

  Origen CaféINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4362-7979; Humberto Primo 599; mains AR$160-270; h8am-10pm Tue-Fri & Sun, to 9:30pm Mon & Sat; v; g29)

  Modern but unpretentious, this stylish corner bistro spills out onto the wide sidewalks; snag an outdoor table on a sunny afternoon. The creative menu features health-conscious dishes from stir-fries and whole-wheat pizzas to homemade soups and green salads. There's an emphasis on vegetarian food, and the cappuccinos are served in delightfully oversized mugs.

  oCafé San JuanINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-1112; www.facebook.com/CafeSanJuanrestaurant/; Av San Juan 450; mains AR$280-380; h12:30-4pm & 8pm-midnight Sun & Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; bLínea C San Juan)

  Having studied in Milan, Paris and Barcelona, TV-chef Leandro Cristóbal now runs the kit
chen at this renowned San Telmo bistro. Start with fabulous tapas, then delve into the grilled Spanish octopus (AR$780), molleja (sweetbreads) cannelloni and amazing pork bondiola (deliciously tender after nine hours’ roasting). Reserve ahead for lunch and dinner.

  oHierbabuenaVEGETARIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4362-2542; www.hierbabuena.com.ar; Av Caseros 454; mains AR$195-260; h9am-midnight Tue-Sun, to 5pm Mon; v; g29, 33, 159, 130)

  Offering a wide selection of healthy vegetarian dishes, smoothies and juices, Hierbabuena is a good option for those looking for a satisfying, non-meat–based meal. It's in a pretty spot, too, looking out onto Av Caseros. Brunch is served on weekends from 11am to 3pm.

  Cafe RivasARGENTINE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-5539; www.facebook.com/caferivas/; Estados Unidos 302; mains AR$220-275; h9:30am-1:30am Tue-Fri, 10am-1:30am Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; W; g29)

  On a picturesque San Telmo corner looking out onto cobblestone streets is this fabulous restaurant with an immaculate wooden interior that oozes timeless charm. Open all day, it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with a merienda (afternoon tea) menu of sandwiches and pastries in between. The menu focuses on Argentine classics such as pork milanesas (fried breaded cutlets), fish stews and beef steaks.