Lonely Planet Laos Read online

  Laos' country code 856

  International access code 00

  Ambulance 195

  Fire 190

  Police 191

  Exchange Rates

  Australia A$1 6152K

  Canada C$1 6110K

  Euro zone €1 8788K

  Japan ¥100 7729K

  Thailand 10B 2289K

  UK UK£1 9838K

  US US$1 8005K

  Vietnam 10,000d 3524K

  For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

  Daily Costs

  Budget: Less than US$50

  ACheap guesthouse room: US$3–10

  ALocal meals and street eats: US$1–2

  ALocal buses: US$2–3 per 100km

  Midrange: US$50–US$150

  AAir-con hotel room: US$15–50

  ADecent local restaurant meal: US$5–10

  ALocal tour guide per day: US$25

  Top End: More than US$150

  ABoutique hotel or resort: US$50–500

  AGastronomic meal with drinks: US$15–50

  A4WD rental per day: US$60–120

  Opening Hours

  Bars and clubs 5pm–11.30pm (later in Vientiane)

  Government offices 8am–noon and 1pm–5pm Monday to Friday

  Noodle shops 7am–1pm

  Restaurants 10am–10pm

  Shops 9am–6pm

  Arriving in Laos

  Wattay International Airport Buses and jumbos run to/from Vientiane's airport. Taxis/minibuses cost a flat fare of US$7/8.

  Luang Prabang International Airport (%071-212173; W) Taxis to/from the airport cost a standardised 50,000K.

  Savannakhet International Airport Jumbos cost 30,000K from the airport, but drivers may start higher.

  Pakse International Airport A săhm-lór or tuk-tuk to the airport will cost about 50,000K.

  Getting Around

  Transport in Laos is generally very good value, but journeys can take a lot longer than distances on a map might suggest.

  Air Laos has an extensive domestic flight network and this can save considerable time on a short visit.

  Boat Rivers are the lifeblood of Laos, making boat journeys an important element of the transport network.

  Bus Laos has some smart buses operating on major routes out of Vientiane, but venture into remote areas and vehicles are as old as the hills.

  Car For those with a more flexible budget, a rented car with driver is the smoothest way to cover a lot of ground in a limited amount of time.

  If You Like…

  Outdoor Activities

  Vang Vieng An adventure playground for river tubing, kayaking, caving, climbing and cycling.

  Tha Khaek The karst limestone peaks are home to deep caves and soaring overhangs.

  Bolaven Plateau Impressive waterfalls, motorcycle trips and the Treetop Explorer zipline adventure.

  Luang Namtha Gateway to northwest adventures, Luang Namtha offers trekking, cycling, kayaking and, further down the jungle trail, the Gibbon Experience.

  Culinary Experiences

  Vientiane The culinary capital of the country, with Laotian home cooking, Gallic gastronomy and flavours as diverse as Indian and Italian.

  Luang Prabang Dine on the Mekong side of the peninsula for sunsets or on the Nam Khan for sophisticated set menus.

  Luang Namtha Luang Namtha has several excellent restaurants that specialise in ethnic minority cuisine.

  Si Phan Don Skip the tourist menus and dig into a variety of fresh Mekong River fish dishes.

  Noodle dish, Luang Prabang | PINNEE.COM/GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR OPEN ©

  River Trips

  Huay Xai to Luang Prabang One of the more conveniently accessed river trips in Laos, with an overnight stop at the dramatically situated town of Pak Beng.

  Si Phan Don With a name that means 'Four Thousand Islands', it's not surprising that boat trips feature strongly in this beautiful southern stretch of the Mekong in Laos.

  Tham Kong Lor A river trip with a difference, passing through a 7km cave that is straight out of Greek mythology.

  Vang Vieng River tubing on the Nam Song is a young backpacker rite of passage, but there are kayaking trips here too.

  Sunrise at Si Phan Don | PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGELICA ANDREA CRUZ/GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR RF ©

  Old Temples

  Luang Prabang The royal city is home to more than 30 gilded wats, including the soaring roofs of Wat Xieng Thong.

  Wat Phu Champasak The ancient Khmers once held sway over much of the Mekong region and Wat Phu was one of their hilltop temples.

  Vientiane The Lao capital is home to some fine temples, including Pha That Luang, the golden stupa that is the symbol of a nation, and Wat Si Saket, which houses thousands of revered buddha images.

  Savannakhet Home to That Ing Hang, one of the holiest temples in all of Laos, plus the ancient Khmer ruin of Heuan Hin.

  Off the Beaten Track

  Vieng Xai Caves These underground caves were the Pathet Lao's base during the US bombing campaign.

  Phongsali Province The remote far north of Laos is the location for some of the most authentic hill-tribe village treks in the country.

  Khammuan Province This rugged central province is peppered with karst limestone peaks and rewards two-wheeled adventurers prepared to head off-piste on the Loop.

  Nam Nern Night Safari A night-time boat tour through Nam Et/Phou Louey National Protected Area (NPA) spotlighting for wildlife and tigers – fingers crossed!

  Memorable Markets

  Handicraft Night Market Night markets, day markets, they come in every flavour in Luang Prabang, including the handicraft night market on the main street and an affordable food market.

  Vientiane's Talat Sao The Talat Sao (Morning Market) is more like a department store or shopping centre in parts, but it is still one of the best places in Laos to shop for handicrafts and textiles.

  Sam Neua's Main Market This huge market has some interesting textiles from this remote region, as well as proving a crossroads for imported goods from China and Vietnam.

  Savannakhet Plaza Food Market The central square comes alive by night, as local street stalls cook up a storm.

  Talat Dao Heuang The largest market in Pakse, and the country, is packed to the gunnels with goods.

  Wellness Centres

  Luang Prabang The spiritual home of wellness in Laos, there are lots of impressive spas at the leading hotels and resorts in town.

  Vientiane The capital is home to many sumptuous spas, some international standard fitness centres and a yoga school.

  Champasak Home to the eponymous Champasak Spa which helps create a sustainable living for young women in this small town.

  Nong Khiaw Get in shape with a yoga session at Mandala Ou Spa or a scrub at Sabai Sabai Spa.

  Month by Month

  Top Events

  Bun Pi Mai, April

  Makha Busa, February

  Bun Bang Fai, May

  Bun Awk Phansa, October or November

  Bun Nam, October or November

  January

  Peak season in much of Laos. It's a pleasantly chilled time to be in the main centres and downright cold at higher altitude.

  zInternational New Year

  A public holiday in sync with embassy and aid workers resident in Laos.

  3Bun Khun Khao

  The annual harvest festival in mid-January sees villagers perform ceremonies offering thanks to the land spirits for their crops.

  February

  The weather is usually still relatively cool and dry at this time, when Chinese and Vietnamese New Year often fall.

  zMakha Busa

  Also known as Magha Puja or Bun Khao Chi, this full-moon festival commemorates a speech given by Buddha to 1250 enlightened monks. Chanting and offerings mark the festival, and celebrations are most fervent in Vientiane and at Wat Phu Champasak.

  zVietnamese Tet & Chinese New Year

  Celebrated in Vientiane, Pakse and Savannakhet with parties, fi
reworks and visits to Vietnamese and Chinese temples. Chinese- and Vietnamese-run businesses usually close for several days.

  March

  Things are starting to warm up and this can be a good time to step up to the higher altitudes of Xieng Khuang and Phongsali.

  zBun Pha Wet

  This is a temple-centred festival in which the Jataka (birth tale) of Prince Vessantara, the Buddha's penultimate life, is recited. This is also a favoured time for Lao males to be ordained into the monkhood.

  April

  April is the hottest month of the year when the thermometer hits 40°C.

  zBun Pi Mai

  Lao new year is the most important holiday of the year. Houses are cleaned, people put on new clothes and Buddha images are washed with lustral water. Locals douse one another, and sometimes random tourists, with water, which is an appropriate activity as April is usually the hottest month of the year. This festival is particularly memorable in Luang Prabang, where it includes processions and lots of traditional costumes. There are public holidays on 14, 15 and 16 April, and the vast majority of shops and restaurants are closed.

  May

  Events go off with a bang this month, as rockets are fired into the sky. 'Green' (low) season kicks in and prices drop accordingly.

  zVisakha Busa

  Visakha Busa (also known as Visakha Puja) falls on the 15th day of the sixth lunar month, which is considered the day of the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and parinibbana (passing away). Countrywide celebrations are centred on the wat, with beautiful candlelit processions by night.

  zBun Bang Fai

  The Rocket Festival is a pre-Buddhist rain ceremony now celebrated alongside Visakha Busa in Laos and northeastern Thailand. It can be one of the wildest festivals in the whole country, with music, dance and folk theatre, processions and general merrymaking, all culminating in the firing of bamboo rockets into the sky. The firing of the rockets is supposed to prompt the heavens to initiate the rainy season and bring much-needed water to the rice fields.

  July

  The wet season is winding up with some heavy rains, but it only pours for a short time each day, making this a lush time to explore.

  zBun Khao Phansa

  Also known as Khao Watsa, this full-moon festival is the beginning of the traditional three-month 'rains retreat', during which Buddhist monks are expected to base themselves in a single monastery. This is also the traditional time of year for men to enter the monkhood temporarily, hence many ordinations take place.

  August

  Summer holidays in Europe see a mini peak during the off season, which brings French, Italian and Spanish tourists, as well as university students to the country.

  zHaw Khao Padap Din

  This sombre full-moon festival sees the living pay respect to the dead. Many cremations take place – bones being exhumed for the purpose – and gifts are presented to the Buddhist order (Sangha) so monks will chant on behalf of the deceased.

  October

  It is all about river action this month. Choose between racing dragon boats in the capital or floating candles across the country.

  zBun Awk Phansa

  At the end of the three-month rains retreat, monks can leave the monasteries to travel and are presented with robes and alms bowls. The eve of Awk Phansa (Ok Watsa) is celebrated with parties and, near any river, with the release of small banana-leaf boats carrying candles and incense in a ceremony called Van Loi Heua Fai, similar to Loy Krathong in Thailand. Luang Prabang is a popular place to witness this festival.

  zBun Nam

  In many river towns, including Vientiane and Luang Prabang, boat races are held the day after Awk Phansa. In smaller towns the races are often postponed until National Day (2 December) so residents aren't saddled with two costly festivals in two months. Also called Bun Suang Heua.

  November

  Peak season begins in earnest and accommodation prices rise once more.

  zBun Pha That Luang

  The That Luang Festival, centred around Pha That Luang in Vientiane, lasts a week and includes fireworks, music and drinking across the capital. Early on the first morning hundreds of monks receive alms and floral offerings. The festival ends with a fantastic candlelit procession circling That Luang.

  December

  Christmas may not be a big Lao festival, but it certainly sees a lot of foreigners arrive in country. Book ahead and be prepared to pay top dollar.

  zLao National Day

  This public holiday on 2 December celebrates the 1975 victory over the monarchy with parades and speeches. Lao national and Communist hammer-and-sickle flags are flown all over the country.

  3Luang Prabang Film Festival

  This festival in early December sees free screenings at several venues around town. The focus is on the blossoming work of Southeast Asian production houses and all films have English subtitles.

  Itineraries

  A Week in Laos

  1 Week

  Start out your classic Laos adventure in Vientiane, the atmospheric Lao capital. There are few must-see sights beyond a handful of temples, but the Mekong riverside setting is dramatic and there are some excellent cafes, restaurants and bars to enjoy and some of the best shopping in the country.

  Head north to Vang Vieng. Once a sort of backpacker Xanadu where anything goes, it has reinvented itself as the adventure centre of Laos with caving, rock climbing, ziplining, kayaking, mountain biking and trekking, not forgetting the infamous river tubing that put this place on the map.

  Continue north on Rte 13, making a side trip to Phonsavan, gateway to the Plain of Jars and its mysterious vessels, one of the more popular destinations in Laos.

  The highlight of this trip is Luang Prabang, the historic capital of Lan Xang and a worthy Unesco World Heritage Site. Plan a few days here to soak up the timeless atmosphere of the old town, including the tak bat (dawn call to alms) for the city's many monks. Save some time for outdoor adventures, with waterfalls, mountain--*bike trails, kayaking trips and jungle treks all on offer.

  Patuxai monument, Vientiane | WUTTICHOK PANICHIWARAPUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Itineraries

  Hit the North

  3 Weeks

  Northern Laos is one of the most popular regions of the country for adventure activities, coupled with an authentic dose of ethnic-minority lifestyles. Right at the heart of the region lies Luang Prabang, the perfect place to start or finish a road trip through the remote north.

  Lovely Luang Prabang is a destination in itself. Spend your time exploring the old town and its myriad temples, traditional buildings and galleries, cafes and shops.

  Head southeast from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan, the base from which to see the impressive Plain of Jars. It is then time to leave the tourist trail and head to the Vieng Xai Caves. The setting is spectacular amid the karst caves and the historic audio tour is one of the most compelling experiences in Laos.

  Swinging west, head to the remote protected area of Nam Et/Phou Louey NPA for a night-time wildlife-watching safari. Continue to Nong Khiaw, a beautiful village on the banks of the Nam Ou (Ou River) with striking limestone crags looming all around. This is the embarkation point for an adventurous boat trip to Phongsali Province via the small villages of Muang Ngoi Neua and Muang Khua. Phongsali is considered the most authentic trekking destination in Laos and it is possible to experience homestays with Akha villagers.

  Head on to Luang Namtha, a friendly base for some northwesterly adventures. Trek into the Nam Ha NPA or try a cycling or kayaking trip in the countryside beyond.

  From Luang Namtha head down to Huay Xai, a Mekong River border town and gateway to the Gibbon Experience. If time is tight, bail out here, but it is better to continue the loop back to Luang Prabang by river. The two-day boat trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang via Pak Beng is one of the most conveniently accessed river trips in the country.

  Or take just a one-day boat trip to Pak Beng and then leave the river behind to head to Sainyabuli and t
he superb Elephant Conservation Center on the Nam Tien lake. This can also be visited out of Luang Prabang.

  Itineraries

  Central & Southern Laos

  2 Weeks

  This classic southern route takes you through the heartland of lowland Lao culture, a world of broad river plains planted with rice and homemade looms shaded by wooden houses on stilts.

  Start in Vientiane, the country's capital, and soak up the sights, shopping, cuisine and nightlife, as things get quieter from here. Make a side trip to the backpacker mecca of Vang Vieng, surrounded by craggy, cave-studded limestone peaks.

  Head south to Tha Khaek, the archetypal sleepy town on the Mekong, and then east on Rte 12 to explore the caves of the Khammuan limestone area, where some of the best rock climbing in the country is on offer. Alternatively, go full tilt and explore the Loop by motorcycle all the way around, stopping at the incredible river cave of Tham Kong Lor.