Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  TateCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2161 2368; www.thebiggroup.co/tate; ground fl, Intermark, 182 Jln Tun Razak; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat; W; LRT Ampang Park)

  It's bordering on self-mockery to have a 'secret' speakeasy cocktail bar in a shopping mall, but once you get past that, Tate's sophisticated atmosphere, complete with cushy leather armchairs and a great cocktail menu, is perfect for a relaxing late-night drink.

  MarketplaceGAY & LESBIAN

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2166 0750; www.facebook.com/love.mpkl; 4a Lg Yap Kwan Seng; RM40; h10pm-3am Fri & Sat; LRT KLCC)

  As Saturday night turns into Sunday morning DJs take to the decks for Lovemachine at Marketplace and KL's gay community dances and drinks like there's no tomorrow. Friday nights are also gay friendly. The rooftop has a superb view of the Petronas Towers.

  Sky BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2332 9888; www.skybar.com.my; level 33, Traders Hotel, KLCC, off Jln Kia Peng; h10.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; LRT KLCC)

  Head to the rooftop pool area of this hotel for a grand circle view across to the Petronas Towers – it’s a great spot for sundowner cocktails or late-night flutes of bubbly. There's a happy hour from 6pm to 9pm.

  Apartment DowntownBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.atheapartment.com; ground fl, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h11.45am-11.45pm; W; LRT KLCC)

  With outdoor seating facing the fountains of KLCC Park, the Apartment, styled to resemble an upmarket condo, is a pleasant spot to revive after a hard day's shopping.

  KUALA LUMPUR PUB CRAWL

  Kuala Lumpur Pub CrawlBEER

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-394 1191; www.facebook.com/KualaLumpurpubcrawl; RM70; h8.45pm-1am Thu & Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  KL's only pub crawl starts at 8.45pm every Thursday and Saturday. Includes five drinks and discounts on others. Meet at Nagaba on the corner of Jln Nagasari and Jln Mesui in the Changkat Bukit Bintang area.

  3Entertainment

  oNo Black TieLIVE MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 3737; www.noblacktie.com.my; 17 Jln Mesui; live music RM30-70; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  Blink and you’d miss this small live-music venue, bar and bistro as it’s hidden behind a grove of bamboo. NBT, as it's known to its faithful patrons, is owned by Malaysian concert pianist Evelyn Hii, who has a knack for finding the talented singer-songwriters, jazz bands and classical-music ensembles who play here from around 9pm.

  Dewan Filharmonik PetronasCONCERT VENUE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2051 7007; www.dfp.com.my; box office, Tower 2, Petronas Towers, KLCC; hbox office 10.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sat; LRT KLCC)

  Don’t miss the chance to attend a show at this gorgeous concert hall at the base of the Petronas Towers. The polished Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra plays here (usually Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday matinees, but also other times), as do other local and international ensembles. There is a smart-casual dress code.

  Forbidden CityLIVE MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 2088; www.forbiddencitykl.com; 50a Changkat Bukit Bintang; h9pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This new live-music venue on Changkat Bukit Bintang hosts mostly jazz and blues musicians in a classy, intimate setting.

  KL LiveLIVE MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 2570; www.kl-live.com.my; 1st fl, Life Centre, 20 Jln Sultan Ismail; DRaja Chulan)

  A boon to KL’s live-music scene, this spacious venue packs in rock and pop fans with an impressive lineup of overseas and local big-name artists and DJs.

  Kuala Lumpur Convention CentreCONCERT VENUE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2333 2888; www.klccconventioncentre.com; Jln Pinang; LRT KLCC)

  The largest of the convention centre's conference rooms and events spaces is Plenary Hall, which is sometimes used for concerts and seats up to 3000.

  TGV CineplexCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tgv.com.my; 3rd fl, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; adult/child RM14/9; LRT KLCC)

  Take your pick from the mainstream offerings at this 12-screen multiplex. Book in advance or be prepared to queue, particularly at weekends.

  GSC Pavilion KLCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gsc.com.my; level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; tickets RM11-20; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Expect queues for hit movies at this multiplex in the popular Pavilion mall. This is one of the few multiplexes in the GSC chain that has an International Screens program showing art-house and foreign movies.

  GSC Berjaya Times SquareCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8312 3456; www.gsc.com.my; 3rd fl, Berjaya Times Square, 1 Jln Imbi; tickets RM9-22; DImbi)

  Among the screens at the Berjaya Times Square branch of the GSC chain is the 3D Maxx, the largest of its kind in Malaysia.

  Hard Rock CaféLIVE MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2715 5555; www.hardrock.com/cafes/kuala-lumpur; ground fl, Wisma Concorde, 2 Jln Sultan Ismail; h11.30am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; DBukit Nanas)

  The KL branch of the cheesy international chain has nightly live performances by local rock bands, with musicians hitting the stage from 10pm. There is cover charge of RM40 (includes a drink) on Friday and Saturday.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  DANCE & CULTURAL SHOWS

  If you'd like to see and hear traditional Malaysian dances and music, there are good shows at the Malaysia Tourism Centre at 3pm Monday to Thursday and Saturday, and 3.30pm Friday. There's also an evening dance show at 8.30pm daily in the attached restaurant Saloma ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2161 0122; www.saloma.com.my; 139 Jln Ampang, Malaysia Tourism Centre; show only RM60, buffet & show RM100; hshow 8.30-9.30pm, buffet 7-10pm; DBukit Nanas).

  7Shopping

  7Bukit Bintang

  oPavilion KLMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pavilion-kl.com; 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Pavilion sets the gold standard in KL's shopping scene. Amid the many familiar international brands, there are some good local options, including British India for fashion, offering well-made linen, silk and cotton clothing for men and women; and the more affordable Padini Concept Store. For a quick trip to Japan, head to the Tokyo Street of stalls on the 6th floor.

  There's also an excellent food court in the basement. Note that when you enter the mall from Jln Bukit Bintang, you are already on level 3.

  Royal SelangorARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.royalselangor.com; level 3, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This well-regarded chain of handcrafted pewter claims origins in 1885 when a Chinese pewtersmith arrived during KL's tin-mining boom. You can still find old pieces in Central Market antique shops but the newer works on sale here are outstanding. If you have time, visit the factory and visitor centre, located 8km northeast of the city centre.

  Khoon HooiFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.khoonhooi.com; Explore Fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Interesting fabric textures are a signature of this Malaysian designer’s work. What sets his clothes apart is attention to detail, such as pleated belts made from zips or shifts sewn from lace.

  Sungei Wang PlazaMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sungeiwang.com; Jln Sultan Ismail; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  A little confusing to navigate but jam-packed with youth-oriented fashion and accessories, this is one of KL's more interesting malls with a focus on street fashion and bargains rather than glitzy international brands. You'll find vintage pieces at Gallery 80s and unique, customised items at MODO. There's also a hawker centre on the 4th floor.

  Fahrenheit88MALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fahrenheit88.com; 179 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This youth-orientated mall houses a large branch of Japanese clothes store Uniqlo. Shoe lovers should check out Shoes Gallery by Parkson and South Korean footwear emporium Sho
open. Local fashion legend Bernard Chandran also has a boutique here on the 1st floor.

  Starhill GalleryMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.starhillgallery.com; 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  With its design crossing Louis Vuitton with Louis XIV, and a basement restaurant 'village' that's a maze of dark cobbled alleys, grey slate walls and bamboo partitioning, this upscale mall is worth popping into just for a look. Fashion outlets such as Alexander McQueen are also here, as well as an excellent culinary school, and a ‘Pamper’ floor for spas.

  Plaza Low YatELECTRONICS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://plazalowyat.com; 7 Jln Bintang, off Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DImbi)

  This is Malaysia's largest IT mall, with six floors of electronic goods and services. Head to the top-floor shops for repairs. There have been reports of credit-card details being recorded after transactions, so it's best to use cash here.

  House of Suzie WongANTIQUES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.houseofsuziewong.com; unit 9, 4th fl, lot 10 Shopping Centre, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; h10am-10pm; DBukit Bintang)

  Antiques from across Asia, from Chinese furniture to textiles, paintings and rugs, are gathered together for sale at this eclectic shop.

  British IndiaCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.britishindia.com.my; level 2, Pavilion KL, Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Branch of the local clothing and home furnishing chain selling high-quality pieces made with gorgeous, Indian-style fabrics.

  Cocoa BoutiqueCHOCOLATE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cocoaboutique.com.my; 139 Jln Ampang; h10am-8pm; DBukit Nanas)

  Brave the tour groups being pushed through this chocolate emporium and small-scale production line to sample unusual local variations such as durian-filled chocolates.

  Jadi Batek CentreARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 1133; www.jadibatek.com; 30 Jln Inai; h9am-5.30pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  On the tour-bus circuit, this batik goods and Malaysian handicrafts showroom and workshop offers plenty of handmade pieces – colourful and pretty things, but no extraordinary designs.

  Berjaya Times SquareMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.berjayatimessquarekl.com; 1 Jln Imbi; h10am-10pm; DImbi)

  Lacking the glitz of rival malls, Berjaya's mammoth effort is best visited for its entertainment options – which include a bowling alley, karaoke, multiplex cinema and giant indoor theme park – rather than for any original shopping.

  Lot 10MALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lot10.com.my; 50 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Fronted by branches of fashion retailers H&M and Zara, Lot 10 is yet another of the Bukit Bintang malls that's worth a browse. Lot 10 Hutong, the mall's fine basement food court, has stalls run by some of the city's most famous hawkers.

  7KLCC & Around

  Suria KLCCMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2382 2828; www.suriaklcc.com.my; KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; LRT KLCC)

  Even if shopping bores you to tears, you’re sure to find something to interest you at this fine shopping complex at the foot of the Petronas Towers. It's mainly international brands but you'll find some local retailers here too, including Royal Selangor for pewter, Vincci for shoes and accessories and Aseana for designer fashion.

  AseanaFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.melium.com; ground level, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; LRT KLCC)

  Billed as Malaysia's 'largest luxury multibrand boutique', Aseana is noted for accessories, bags and jewellery. It also boasts an extensive selection from international and local fashion luminaries, such as Malaysian Farah Khan (www.farahkhan.com), who specialises in beaded and sequinned glamour wear.

  KinokuniyaBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kinokuniya.com; level 4, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; LRT KLCC)

  Kinokuniya is the kind of bookshop where you can lose hours browsing the covetable stationery supplies and excellent selection of English-language titles, as well as books in all the other major languages of Malaysia. The upper-floor cafe has great views.

  Prototype GalleryART

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/prototypegallery; level 2, Wisma Central, Jln Ampang; h10am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sat; LRT KLCC)

  Search out this small gallery of local arts products, ranging from 3D-printed items to prints and magazines, for the chance to see the awesome murals painted on the ceilings of this old-school mall.

  On the same floor is the KL outpost of Ipoh-based indie publishers and arts collective Projek Rabak.

  Kompleks Kraf Kuala LumpurARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 7533; www.kraftangan.gov.my/en/craft-complex-2; Jln Conlay; h9am-8pm; DRaja Chulan)

  A government enterprise, this huge complex caters mainly to coach tours, but it’s worth a visit to browse the shops and stalls selling batik prints and fashion, wood carvings, pewter, basket ware, glassware and ceramics. You can also watch artists and craftspeople at work in the surrounding Craft Village or take a look around the attached Muzium Kraf.

  Avenue KMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.avenuek.com.my; 156 Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; LRT KLCC)

  Anchored by a huge branch of fast-fashion retailer H&M, Avenue K has undergone a serious revamp in recent years and is now packed with shops and appealing places to eat, as well entertainment such as a branch of the escape game Breakout and the interactive prehistoric exhibition Discoveria.

  IsetanDEPARTMENT STORE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.isetankl.com.my; Suria KLCC; h10am-10pm; LRT KLCC)

  At this vast department store spread over five floors you'll find cosmetics and beauty products, children's wear, menswear and womenswear, including labels such as Anya Hindmarch, Dior, Celine and Ralph Lauren.

  WORTH A DETOUR

  TAMAN CONNAUGHT NIGHT MARKET

  Taman Connaught Night MarketMARKET

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7pm-1am Wed)

  In the southeast of the city, stretching along Jln Cerdas, is the longest pasar malam (night market) in Malaysia. It stretches for around 2km, with over 500 stalls selling mainly clothing, household goods and food. At the western end near Jln Pantas, fuel up on kway teow mee goreng (noodles), fresh juices and baked birds' eggs on a stick.

  To reach the market, take the LRT or Komuter Train to Bandar Tasik Selatan, then hop in a taxi (around RM10).

  2Sports & Activities

  Starhill Culinary StudioCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2782 3810; www.starhillculinarystudio.com; Starhill Gallery, Muse Fl, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; public classes RM188; h10am-9.30pm Tue-Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Sign up for a two- to three-hour class (usually focusing on a single dish) and you'll not only get top instruction in this gleaming, well-designed culinary art studio, but you'll also be well fed. Classes vary daily and include Malay and Nonya (Peranakan) dishes, Japanese cuisine, baking and Asian and Western desserts. Private classes can also be arranged.

  Berjaya Times Square Theme ParkAMUSEMENT PARK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2117 3118; www.berjayatimessquarethemeparkkl.com; Berjaya Times Sq, 1 Jln Imbi; adult/child RM51/41; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat & Sun; DImbi)

  Despite the mall location, there’s a full-sized looping coaster here, plus a good selection of thrill rides for teenagers and gentler rides for families. (Avoid the DNA Mixer unless you want to see your nasi lemak a second time.)

  Ampang SuperbowlBOWLING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2144 8323; www.ampangsuperbowl.com; 5th fl, Berjaya Times Square, 1 Jln Imbi; RM6-9; h10am-midnight; DImbi)

  Forty-eight lane ten-pin bowling alley. Shoe rental costs RM3.30.

  Royal Selangor Golf CourseGOLF

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9206 3333; www.rsgc.com; Jln Kelab Golf, off Jln Tun Razak; 18 holes RM450; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  KL offers more than 40 courses in and around the city, including the Royal Selangor Go
lf Course. You'll need to be invited by a member to play or be staying at the associated hotel.

  Take a taxi from AirAsia-Bukit Bintang.

  Celebrity FitnessGYM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 1000; www.celebrityfitness.com.my; rooftop, lot 10, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; day passes RM75; h6.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Fully equipped gym with classes on the rooftop of Lot 10.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  SPAS & REFLEXOLOGY

  Bukit Bintang is stacked with spas and massage parlours offering all manner of pampering, from luxurious treatments with exotic potions to simple salons for foot reflexology.

  Practically all KL's five-star hotels offer a luxurious spa experience. One of the best is the Ritz Carlton's Spa Village ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2782 9090; www.spavillage.com; Ritz-Carlton, 168 Jln Imbi; treatments RM410-995; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang), with its resortlike atmosphere and wide-ranging menu of Chinese, Indian and Southeast Asian healing and toning therapies.