Lonely Planet Morocco Page 9

  AFor family-friendly activities such as a task-filled medina hunt and henna-art workshops, try Creative Interactions.

  Alternative Sightseeing

  Calèche rides When kids' legs and parents' backs start to give out, do what Moroccan parents do: hire a horse carriage in the Djemaa el-Fna and take a grand tour.

  Dromedary rides Head out to the palmeraie (palm grove) where dromedaries await in the parking lot of the Café le Palmier d'Or. About Dh50 to Dh70 should cover a 15- to 30-minute guided ride (bargaining required).

  Horse riding For professional lessons and horse treks in the palmeraie and Atlas Mountains, look no further than the stables at Les Cavaliers de L'Atlas.

  Biking Explore Marrakesh or the Atlas Mountains beyond, on a family-friendly bike tour with AXS.

  When The City Gets Too Much...

  Beldi Country Club A 15-hectare country retreat designed with families in mind; includes a children’s pool and child-focused activities ranging from bread baking to horse riding.

  Terres d’Amanar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 81 03; www.terresdamanar.com; Douar Akli, Tahanaoute; activities from Dh100; c) Adrenaline-packed activities to balance out all that souq strolling. This outdoor centre, 36km south of Marrakesh, offers zip lines, a forest adventure course, mountain biking and horse riding.

  Oasiria ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 04 38; www.oasiria.com; Rte d'Amizmiz, Km4; adult/child Dh210/130; h10am-6pm; c) Beat the heat with nine pools, a kamikaze slide and a pirate lagoon, all tucked within lush gardens.

  Need To Know

  AAdmission The majority of museums have reduced rates for under-12s.

  AChallenges Strollers are impractical in the medina, baby-changing facilities are scarce – and restaurants make few dietary concessions.

  APractical shopping Nappies, infant formula and other necessities can be found at Carrefour in Guéliz.

  CCourses

  Cafe Clock is a one-stop shop for a fascinating range of courses from oud lessons to calligraphy to language classes.

  Many riads in the medina organise cooking sessions with their chef. The Amal Center also offers highly recommended cooking courses.

  oAteliers d'AilleursART

  (%0672 81 20 46; www.ateliersdailleurs.com; workshops €35-69)

  Engaging a select network of professional craftsmen with robust businesses in pottery, tadelakt, woodwork, zellij tiling, embroidery and much more, these ateliers (studios) offer a unique insight into traditional-craft techniques. During the two- to five-hour workshops, you work alongside craftsmen utilising traditional materials, with enough time to practice several techniques and to realise your own objects.

  Souk CuisineCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0673 80 49 55; www.soukcuisine.com; Zniquat Rahba, 5 Derb Tahtah; class incl meal & wine €50)

  Learn to cook as the dadas (chefs) do: shop in the souq for ingredients with English-speaking Dutch hostess Gemma van de Burgt, work alongside two Moroccan dadas, then enjoy the four-course lunch you helped cook. Courses run for two to 12 participants; vegetarian courses possible.

  Bled Al FassiaCOOKING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 43 34 26; www.bledalfassia.com; Rte de Ouarzazate, Km9; per person Dh600)

  Learn the secrets of the chefs behind Al Fassia restaurant in this spotless luxury villa kitchen on the outskirts of Marrakesh. Rates include transfers from central Marrakesh. Minimum of two participants.

  Study Arabic in MarrakechLANGUAGE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0672 86 90 36; www.studyarabicmarrakech.com; off Rte de Casablanca; private/group lessons per hr Dh100/70; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri)

  Has both short-term programs for travellers wanting to pick up some Darija (Moroccan Arabic) and long-term courses in both Darija and modern standard Arabic. Private classes available.

  Creative InteractionsLANGUAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 16 87; www.creative-interactions.com; Apt 47, Immeuble El Khalil Bldg, Ave des Nations Unies; 1½hr private/group €40/35, 3hr €65/60)

  Moroccan Arabic classes designed for short-term travellers. These fun and friendly workshops allow even travellers on a very short stay a chance to learn the basics they'll most need on their visit. A fantastic idea for those who want to dive a little further into Marrakshi culture. Three-hour sessions include a cooking demonstration and lunch.

  Also runs four-week intensive Arabic courses.

  Centre for Language and CultureLANGUAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 76 91; www.clcmorocco.org; off Rue Sourya, Guéliz)

  American and Moroccan teachers with years of experience offer summer language courses with homestay hook-ups. Lessons are immersive and the school applies the Communicative Language Learning (CLL) technique in its Arabic language classes, the only school in Morocco to do so.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  CARAVANSERAI HERITAGE

  From loaded-down camel caravans coming in from the desert to the carpet shops and souvenir stalls of today, Marrakesh is first and foremost a magnificent caravanserai city. Since medieval times, fondouqs (rooming houses) provided ground-floor stables and workshops downstairs, and rented rooms for desert traders and travelling merchants upstairs. As trading communities became more stable and affluent though, the need for fondouqs declined.

  Today only 140 remain in the medina, many of them now converted into artisan complexes, and although you'll find them in various states of disrepair, many retain fragments of fine woodcarving and even stucco work. The best to poke your head into and admire their shop-worn glory are found on Rue Dar el-Bacha and Rue Mouassine. Our two favourites are:

  Fondouq el-AmirHISTORIC BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Dar el-Bacha)

  This well-preserved fondouq would have once been the staging post for medieval merchants, here to do business in the city, but today the courtyard chambers are filled with small artisan shops. It's particularly noteworthy for the red-ochre geometric decoration of diamonds, hexagons and stars that border its internal stone arches.

  Fondouq KharbouchHISTORIC BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Dar el-Bacha)

  The inner courtyard of this fondouq may now be home to a ramshackle collection of workshops, with power lines strung precariously between windows, but the spacious grace and pleasing proportions of this old merchant inn haven't been lost. The upper balconies still cling to threads of wooden ceilings now supported by plain white plaster pillars.

  TTours

  Guided tours of the medina will help you cover specific landmarks in an hour or two. Just don’t expect sweet souq deals: guides get commissions on whatever you buy. Hotels, riads and travel agencies can arrange guides, or you can book official guides directly via the tourist office for Dh250/400 for a half/full day.

  oTawada TrekkingTREKKING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0618 24 44 31; www.tawadatrekking.com; Hay Ezzaitoun)

  Trekking tours into the Atlas Mountains, rafting trips and cultural immersion experiences are the speciality of this small, professional company run by Hafida H’doubane, one of the first Moroccan women to be licensed as a mountain guide. They can also organise 4x4 trips into the Atlas region and desert beyond.

  Morocco Adventure & RaftingRAFTING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 77 52 51; www.rafting.ma; Rue Beni Marine; half-day rafting trip €95)

  This local company has been leading rafting expeditions (February to May) in the Atlas for over 12 years, with a team of local and international guides all with a minimum of five years' guiding experience. Excursions range from a half-day whitewater rafting trip to Ourika to a three-day or week-long rafting excursion in the Ahansel Valley.

  In addition, it organises city tours of Marrakesh as well as desert trips and excursions into the Atlas. Every April it runs a seasonal kayak school for beginners at Bin el-Ouidane, and kayak clinics for the more experienced. Groups are limited to 12 to 16 people.

  Inside Morocco TravelTOURS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 00 20; www.insidemoroccotravel.com; 4th
fl, 29 Rue de Yougoslavie; h8.30am-4.30pm)

  Get to know Morocco on bespoke adventures designed by multilingual Mohamed Nour and his team. Specialises in trekking trips into the High Atlas and combined 4x4 excursions exploring the desert and mountains. Their day trip visiting the Agafay Desert, Lalla Takerkoust and hiking around Imlil (from €60 per person) is worthwhile if you're short of time.

  Mountain VoyageTOURS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 19 96; www.mountain-voyage.com; 2nd fl, Immeuble El Batoul, 5 Ave Mohammed V; h9am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat)

  This British-owned, Marrakesh-based company provides licensed, English-speaking guides for tailor-made Marrakesh tours, sustainable tourism excursions in the Middle Atlas, and High Atlas excursions with stays at its own property, the Kasbah du Toubkal.

  Marrakech Food ToursFOOD & DRINK

  (www.marrakechfoodtours.com; US$65; h1pm & 6pm Sat-Thu)

  Munch your way through the medina: weave through the souqs tucking into tanjia (slow-cooked stew), sampling Marrakshi street food and slurping down avocado milkshakes. Hosts Youssef and Amanda take groups (up to six participants) on a whirlwind tour of Marrakshi flavours. Bring your appetite.

  Desir du MarocTOURS

  (%0661 16 35 85; www.desirdumaroc.com)

  Marrakshi Abdelhay Sadouk has 30 years’ experience introducing visitors to Moroccan culture, leading history and culture tours around Marrakesh's lesser-known sites and further afield to the coast, desert and mountains.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  THE UBIQUITOUS OURIKA VALLEY DAY TRIP

  Every travel agency in town touts day trips to the Ourika Valley. Be aware that although the trip does offer a quick taste of the Moroccan countryside, it isn't for everyone. Expect a long drive, few actual stops and crowds at Setti Fatma. The typical trip stops first at a lookout (with an optional, very quick camel ride), a shopping stop at an argan oil workshop, and then onwards to Setti Fatma for what is usually a very crowded hike up to the cascades (with local guides pulling less-able hikers up the rocks), and then lunch.

  zFestivals & Events

  Marrakesh MarathonSPORTS

  (www.marathon-marrakech.com; half-/full-marathon fee €50/70; hJan)

  Run like there’s a carpet salesman after you from the Djemaa to the palmeraie and back for this annual marathon.

  Marrakech BiennaleART

  (www.marrakechbiennale.org; hFeb-May)

  Promoting debate and dialogue through artistic exchange, this major trilingual (Arabic, French and English) festival invites local and international artists to create literary, artistic, architectural and digital works throughout the city. Held every other year (even years).

  Marrakech Festival of Popular ArtsPERFORMING ARTS

  (hJul)

  The only thing hotter than Marrakesh in July is this free-form folk fest. Berber musicians, dancers and street performers from around the country pour into Marrakesh to thrill the masses.

  Oasis FestivalMUSIC

  (www.oasisfest.com; hSep)

  Oasis brings together Morocco's best electronica talent with DJs from Europe for a music festival with a distinctly Moroccan twist. In the afternoon there's swimming, a souq, yoga and henna art; once dusk sets in the DJs hit the decks. In 2016 the festival was held at the Source hotel, 10km from the city, with shuttle transport available from the centre.

  Advance booking essential. Tickets available on the website.

  MadJazzMUSIC

  (www.madjazz-festival.com; hMay)

  Marrakesh invents new sounds nightly with Gnaoua castanets, jazz riffs and Jimi Hendrix guitar licks.

  Marrakesh International Film FestivalFILM

  (www.festivalmarrakech.info/en; hDec)

  Stars from Hollywood to Bollywood strut the Berber red carpet at this week-long festival, culminating in wildly unpredictable awards shows. There are also movie screenings at Djemaa el-Fna.

  MARRAKESH MODERN ART SCENE

  While the tourist market still trades in harem girls, men with muskets and other Orientalist clichés, these galleries offer original talent.

  Musée Farid BelkahiaMUSEUM

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 32 89 59; off Rte de Fez; adult/child Dh50/30; h10am-7pm)

  Farid Belkahia (1934–2014) was one of the most well-known figures in 20th-century Moroccan art. This museum, housed in the artist's old villa, exhibits a selection of his work, including some of the multimedia pieces that he was known for.

  To get here, follow the signs from Musée de la Palmeraie.

  Galerie RêGALLERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 22 58; www.galeriere.com; Résidence Al Andalous III, cnr Rues de la Mosquée & Ibn Toumert; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat)

  Head across Ave Mohammed V and down Rue ibn Toumert to check out next-generation art stars at Galerie Ré. Keep an eye out for Amina Benbouchta’s hieroglyphically minimalist paintings, Mauoal Bouchaïb’s petroglyph-inspired etchings, editions of poetry illustrated by gallery artists, and gallery opening soirees (always packed, always fabulous).

  David Bloch GalleryGALLERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 45 75 95; www.davidblochgallery.com; 8 bis Rue des Vieux Marrakchis; h10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 3.30-7.30pm Mon)

  Artists from both sides of the Mediterranean strike fine lines between traditional calligraphy and urban graffiti in a series of temporary exhibitions. Catch the work of up-and-coming abstract artists.

  Galerie Noir sur BlancGALLERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 42 24 16; www.galerienoirsurblanc.com; 1st fl, 48 Rue de Yougoslavie; h3-7pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sat)

  The Galerie Noir sur Blanc showcases major Moroccan talent complemented by temporary exhibits focused on local artists.

  Gallery 127GALLERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 43 26 67; www.galerienathalielocatelli.com; 2nd fl, 127 Ave Mohammed V; h2-7pm Tue-Sat)

  Like any worthwhile Chelsea gallery, this one is up a dim, once-grand staircase, in an industrial-chic chamber with the obligatory exposed brick-and-concrete wall. It exhibits a range of new and vintage works by international photographers (mostly Mediterranean) with shows varying from straightforward travel photography to more interpretive works.

  Musée de la PalmeraieMUSEUM

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 09 53 52; off Rte de Fez; adult/child Dh40/free; h9am-6pm)

  Set in a collection of adobe houses, the Musée de la Palmeraie displays a collection of Moroccan modern art that includes calligraphy, photography, painting and sculpture. Some of the art is so-so, but outside, the museum's immaculate Andalusian and cacti gardens are a tranquil escape from the city.

  4Sleeping

  Marrakesh has it all: you can sleep anywhere from the funkiest fleapit to palaces straight out of some Orientalist Hollywood fantasy. Take your pick: authentic riads hidden in the heart of the medina; budget-friendly inns right off the Djemaa; ville nouvelle hotels, ranging from budget to business class; or palmeraie villas, with pools amid swaying palms.

  Booking ahead is crucial for medina riads due to limited rooms.

  Room rates in Marrakesh are the highest in Morocco. Many budget hotels keep the same rates all year round but with negotiable prices for longer stays or quiet periods. Some riads only raise their prices over the winter and Easter holiday period while others have various different pricing scales for low and high seasons.

  THE RIAD EXPERIENCE

  Paris has its cathedrals, New York its skyscrapers, but riads are what set Marrakesh apart. These spectacular mudbrick courtyard mansions are oases of calm in the bustling medina: push through the brass-studded ancient door and you’ll find yourself listening to songbirds, ice clinking in drinks and your own thoughts – suddenly, Marrakesh’s balance of extremes makes perfect sense.

  Over the past decade, hundreds of these historic family homes have been sold and reinvented as guesthouses, mainly by Europeans. The best are not just marvels of the Marrakshi tradition of craftsmanship – which guesthouses helped revive – but unforgettable experiences o
f Marrakshi hospitality, complete with insights into the local culture and shifting social mores, home-cooked meals and prime opportunities for relaxation and cultural immersion. Staying in a riad isn’t just about sleeping in posh digs; it’s about gaining an understanding of Marrakesh behind those studded doors.

  AHip Marrakech (www.hipmarrakech.com) Riad accommodation specialist with a good range of options.

  AMarrakech Riads (www.marrakech-riads.com) A selection of nine medina riads.

  AMarrakech Medina (www.marrakech-medina.com) Local riad booking agency.

  Medina

  oLe GalliaHOTEL€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 59 13; www.hotellegallia.com; 30 Rue de la Recette; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh350/550/850; aW)

  Madcap Djemaa el-Fna is around the corner, but Le Gallia maintains the calm and grace of another era with comfortable, neat-as-a-pin rooms, all with air-con, heating and reliable hot water, arranged around a courtyard trimmed with colourful beldi tiles and shaded by orange trees. Run by the French Galland family since 1929, it's often packed with repeat visitors.

  Note that prices are often cheaper than their official room rates.