Lonely Planet Morocco Page 8
Badi PalaceHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Behind Pl des Ferblantiers; adult/child Dh10/3, Koutoubia minbar extra Dh10; h9am-5pm)
As 16th-century sultan Ahmed al-Mansour was paving the Badi Palace with gold, turquoise and crystal, his court jester wisecracked, ‘It’ll make a beautiful ruin.’ That jester was no fool: 75 years later the place was looted and today only remnants remain. El-Badi's vast courtyard, with its four sunken gardens and reflecting pools, give a hint of the palace's former majesty and the views from the pisé ramparts, where storks nest, are magnificent.
The building just west of the Khaysuran Pavilion holds the 12th-century Koutoubia minbar (prayer pulpit); a masterwork by Cordoban artisans.
The entire Badi Palace complex was closed to the public for a long-overdue and ambitious restoration project. Be aware that the complex, or parts of the complex, may not be fully open when you visit.
To reach the entrance, head through Pl des Ferblantiers and turn right along the ramparts.
Lazama SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Derb Manchoura; Dh10; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri, closed on Jewish holidays)
In the mellah (Jewish quarter), the Lazama Synagogue is still used by Marrakesh's dwindling Jewish community. A nondescript door leads into a pretty blue-and-white courtyard with the synagogue on the right-hand side. Inside the austere worship area, note the zellij tilework's Star of David motif. The courtyard's surrounding ground-floor rooms have exhibits of Moroccan Jewish life.
Miaâra Jewish CemeteryCEMETERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue el-Miaâra; entry by donation Dh10; hSun-Thu 9am-5pm, Fri 8am-1pm, closed Jewish holidays)
In this sprawling walled cemetery, the exceptionally helpful gatekeeper admits visitors who wish to pay their respects to whitewashed tombs topped with rocks for remembrance.
Your donation towards the cemetery's upkeep gets you a map of the mellah, so it's well worth visiting the Miaâra first before diving into the Jewish quarter's back streets.
oSaadian TombsHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de la Kasbah; adult/child Dh10/3; h9am-4.45pm)
Anyone who says you can’t take it with you hasn’t seen the Saadian Tombs, near the Kasbah Mosque. Saadian Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour ed-Dahbi spared no expense on his tomb, importing Italian Carrara marble and gilding honeycomb muqarnas (decorative plasterwork) with pure gold to make the Chamber of the 12 Pillars a suitably glorious mausoleum.
Al-Mansour played favourites even in death, keeping alpha-male princes handy in the Chamber of the Three Niches, and relegating to garden plots some 170 chancellors and wives – though some trusted Jewish advisors earned pride of place, literally closer to the king’s heart than his wives or sons. All tombs are overshadowed by his mother’s mausoleum in the courtyard, carved with poetic, weathered blessings and vigilantly guarded by stray cats.
Al-Mansour died in splendour in 1603, but a few decades later Alawite Sultan Moulay Ismail walled up the Saadian Tombs to keep his predecessors out of sight and mind. Accessible only through a small passage in the Kasbah Mosque, the tombs were neglected by all except the storks, until aerial photography exposed them in 1917.
DON'T MISS
MEDINA PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Within the looping derbs (alleyways) of the medina you'll find a clutch of newly opened private museums, which allow a window on Marrakshi culture and history. Here are three of our favourites:
Le Jardin SecretMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 39 00 40; www.lejardinsecretmarrakech.com; 121 Rue Mouassine; adult/child Dh50/free, tower Dh30/20; h10.30am-7pm)
Take a souq time-out to enjoy a traditional medina garden revived for the 21st century. This historic riad was once owned by powerful caid (local chief) U-Bihi, who was poisoned by Mohammed IV. The palatial grounds comprise both an exotic and traditional Islamic garden fed by a restored original khettara (underground irrigation system), a pavilion with exhibits on the riad's history (including a fascinating documentary on the restoration process), a cafe, and a tower with views across the medina.
Heritage MuseumMUSEUM
(Musée du Patrimoine; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.heritagemuseummarrakech.com; 25 Zinkat Rahba; Dh30; h9am-5pm)
The Alouani Bibi family have thrown open the doors of this old riad to display their eclectic and fascinating collection of Moroccan artefacts. From Berber costumes and jewellery to Roman amphorae, the exhibits (all labelled in English and French) cover the arc of Moroccan history and culture. The rooftop cafe is a tranquil spot to hang out in amid the souq hustle.
Musée BoucharouiteMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 38 87; Derb El Cadi; adult/child Dh40/free; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug)
Berber boucharouites (rag rugs made from recycled cloth) may be a poor cousin to the famous jewel-toned Moroccan carpets, but this beautifully collated gallery housed in an 18th-century riad displays the artistry of this lesser-known craft. The museum is the work of avid collector Patrick de Maillard and,in addition to boucharouites, the rooms are scattered with a lovely jumble of Moroccan popular art, from agricultural implements to painted doors. The terrace upstairs serves refreshments.
Ville Nouvelle
oJardin MajorelleGARDENS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 31 30 47; www.jardinmajorelle.com; cnr Aves Yacoub el-Mansour & Moulay Abdullah; adult/child Dh70/free; h8am-6pm, to 5.30pm Oct-Apr)
Other guests bring flowers, but Yves Saint Laurent gifted the Jardin Majorelle to Marrakesh, the city that adopted him in 1964. Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé bought the electric-blue villa and its garden to preserve the vision of its original owner, landscape painter Jacques Majorelle, and keep it open to the public. The garden began cultivating in 1924 and thanks to Marrakshi ethnobotanist Abderrazak Benchaâbane, the psychedelic desert mirage of 300 plant species from five continents continues to be preserved.
Even if you're not that into plants, come here to visit Majorelle’s art deco studio, home to the Musée Berbère ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jardin Majorelle; adult/child Dh30/free; h8am-6pm, to 5.30pm Oct-Apr), which showcases the rich panorama of Morocco's indigenous inhabitants through displays of some 600 artefacts. By far one of the country's most beautifully curated museums, the collection includes wood, leather and metalwork, textiles, musical instruments, religious trappings, and a display of the various regional traditional dress. Best of all is the mirrored, midnight-black octagonal chamber displaying a sumptuous collection of chiselled, filigreed and enamelled jewellery that reflect into infinity beneath a starry desert sky.
From the museum you exit into the boutique with its handsome coffee-table books and pricey souvenirs: Majorelle blue slippers, perfume and pillows embroidered with YSL.
Another museum, dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent, is due to open within the gardens in late 2017.
MACMAGALLERY
(Musee d'Art et de Culture de Marrakech; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 44 83 26; 61 Passage Ghandouri, Rue de Yougoslavie; adult/student Dh40/20; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
It may be small but the big guns of Orientalist painting are all on display at this suave gallery, opened in early 2016. The impressive collection of 19th- and 20th-century European artists who fell for Morocco's landscapes and peoples include Henri Le Riche, Edy Legrand, Roger Marcel Limouse and, of course, Jacques Majorelle – he of garden fame.
Menara GardensGARDENS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de la Menara, Hivernage; garden free, picnic pavilion Dh20; h9am-5pm)
Local lore tells of a sultan who seduced guests over dinner, then lovingly chucked them in the Menara’s reflecting pools to drown. Nowadays dunking seems the furthest thing from the minds of couples canoodling amid these royal olive groves, or families picnicking in the stately 19th-century pavilion. The vast olive groves themselves hold little interest, but on clear days come for dromedary rides and photo ops of the pavilion and reflecting pool against the Atlas Mountain backdrop.
Marrakesh Ville Nouvelle
1
Sights
1David Bloch GalleryB1
2Galerie Noir sur BlancB2
3Galerie RêC2
4Gallery 127B2
5MACMAB2
6Theatre RoyalA3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
7Centre for Language and CultureD1
8Creative InteractionsD2
9Inside Morocco TravelA1
10Marrakech Bike ActionC2
11Mountain VoyageA1
4Sleeping
12Blue Sea Le PrintempsA2
13Hôtel du PachaC1
14Hôtel ToulousainC2
5Eating
15Al FassiaB1
16Amal CenterB1
17AzarB3
18Café 16C2
19CarrefourB2
20CatanzaroC2
21Chez MadoB1
22LoftB2
23Mamma MiaB2
24Patisserie al-JawdaB2
25Pâtisserie AmandineA2
26Snack al-BahriyaB3
6Drinking & Nightlife
2768 Bar à VinC1
Café du LivreC2
28Grand Café de la PosteC2
29KechmaraB2
30L'auberge EspagnoleB1
31PointbarA1
3Entertainment
32Le ColiséeA2
7Shopping
33AtikaB2
8Information
34BCMI BankB2
35DHLA1
36FedExA1
37Main Post OfficeC2
38Office National Marocain du TourismeB2
39Pharmacie CentraleB2
40Pharmacie de l'UnitéD2
41Polyclinique du SudB1
42Société GénéraleD3
43Voyages SchwartzB1
Transport
44KATB1
45La Plaza CarA1
46Royal Air MarocC2
2Activities
Cycling
oAXSCYCLING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 40 02 07; www.argansports.com; Rue Fatima al Fihria; half-day city tours from Dh350; c)
Get on a bike and discover Marrakesh's sights on a classic city ride, or munch through street stalls between rides on the tasting tour. Those up for more adventure can mountain bike in the Atlas or cycle to Essaouira. High-quality Giant road bikes, mountain bikes (including kid's bikes) and helmets provided. Solo explorers can also rent bikes here for single and multiday trips.
Marrakech Bike ActionCYCLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 24 01 45; www.marrakechbikeaction.com; 1st fl, 212 Ave Mohammed V; city or palmeraie tour Dh250)
Organises city and palmeraie (palm grove) tour circuits as well as mountain-biking day trips and longer excursions into the Atlas region. They also have electric-assisted mountain bikes for travellers worried about their ability to keep up with the rest of the group.
Horse Riding
Les Cavaliers de L'AtlasHORSE RIDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0611 81 68 06; www.lescavaliersdelatlas.com; Rte de Casablanca; half/full day €50/90)
Run by passionate horsewoman Sophie Chauvat, this is a professional stable with a mix of Arab, Anglo-Arab and Berber horses and Welsh and Shetland ponies. Options range from half-day rides through the palmeraie to multiday horse treks in the Atlas.
All equipment is provided, including riding caps, half-chaps and body protectors for children.
The centre is located five-minutes north of Marrakesh, just off the Rte de Casablanca (N9) and is clearly signposted on the road. For those that want to make their holiday all about riding, their guesthouse Dar Guerris (double/suites including breakfast €90/150) is onsite.
Public Hammams
For an authentic Moroccan spa experience, head to your local neighbourhood hammam. Entry costs about Dh10 with optional massage Dh50 to Dh100. All public hammams are single sex (or have separate hours for women and men). It's best to ask for public hammam recommendations from locals as a few don't accept non-Muslims.
BYO hammam kit: towel, flip-flops, plastic mat and a change of underwear (you’ll be expected to wear yours). You can also bring your own black soap and hammam mitt (buy them from the many stalls around town).
Hammam MouassineHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Derb el-Hammam; hammam & gommage Dh100; h5am-midnight)
A proper public hammam that also caters for travellers looking for an authentic experience. In business since 1562, Hammam Mouassine has charming and professional staff who will wash and then scrub you down (gommage) with Morocco's famed rhassoul clay until you're squeaky clean. As with other public hammams, you could also DIY it here and pay just the entrance fee Dh10.
Men enter the hammam the marked archway on the east side of the Mouassine fountain. The women's entrance is through the signposted alleyway on the west side.
Hammam Dar el-BachaHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 20 Rue Fatima Zohra; Dh10; hmen 7am-1pm, women 1-9pm)
The city’s largest traditional hammam, with star-shaped vents in the vast domed ceiling. It’s the public hammam of choice for women, who get prime afternoon and evening hours here.
Hammam Bab DoukkalaHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Bab Doukkala; Dh10; hwomen noon-7pm, men from 8pm)
A historic hammam in the southeast corner of Bab Doukkala Mosque, dating from the 17th century. It has heated tadelakt (polished plaster) floors in good repair and a mellow atmosphere during men’s hours.
Private Hammams
Heritage SpaHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 43 33; www.heritagespamarrakech.com; 40 Derb Arset Aouzal; hammam & gommage from Dh290; h10am-8pm)
Forget any illusions of authentically local hammams and bliss out in this private spa-hammam with a deep-cleansing sea-salt exfoliation (Dh300) or a detoxing black-soap and bitter-orange scrub (Dh290). Afterwards, stressed travellers can soothe jet-lagged skin with a pampering massage using essential oils (from Dh450).
Le Bain BleuHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 38 04; www.lebainbleu.com; 32 Derb Chorfa Lakbir; hammam & gommage Dh200, with massage from Dh600; h10am-11pm)
Top-notch pampering awaits. Follow signs for Dar Cherifa off Rue el-Mouassine onto Derb Chorfa Lakbir, where this riad spa-hammam features secluded patios, sleek subterranean steam rooms and professional treatments to soothe the souq-weary. Couples hammam packages, plus facials, manicures and pedicures available.
Sultana SpaHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 80 08; www.lasultanamarrakech.com; Rue de la Kasbah; hammam & gommage Dh400)
An opulent, all-marble spa near the Saadian Tombs offering services from a basic hammam experience to pampering massages (Dh600 to Dh1400), signature cinnamon body scrubs and facial treatments using argan and prickly-pear oils.
Swimming
oBeldi Country ClubSWIMMING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 38 39 50; www.beldicountryclub.com; Rte de Barrage 'Cherifa', Km6; adult/child pool day-pass Dh200/100, incl lunch Dh370/250; c)
Located just 6km south of the city centre, the Beldi feels a million miles away from the dust and chaos of the medina. Lie back and smell the 15,000 roses at Dominique Leymarie's eco-chic paradise with its pools, spa, hammam, tennis courts and plenty of family-friendly activities on offer.
Riad BlednaSWIMMING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 18 20 90; www.riadbledna.com; off Rte de Ouarzazate, Km19, 31°35’46.8″N 7°52’28.5″W; per person, incl lunch & transfer €25)
This 1.5-hectare organic garden retreat is in a quiet Marrakesh suburb east of the city centre. Day rates offer superb value, covering use of the oxygen-filtered pool, tasty homemade lunches and transfers to and from Djemaa el-Fna.
Ferme BerbèreSWIMMING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 92 09 41; www.fermeberbere.com; Rte d’Ourika, Km9; lunch with pool access Dh165, lunch, pool & hammam package Dh450; c)
We can think of a better way to spend a lazy afternoon than lolling on a sun-lounger at this rustic adobe-walled retreat. A great escape from the medina hustle, with good getaway deals for families: lunch for two
adults and two children, pool access, family hammam, and donkey rides for the kids cost Dh750.
You'll find it 9km south on Rte d'Ourika.
MARRAKESH FOR CHILDREN
The mutual admiration between kids and Marrakesh is obvious. Kids will gaze in wonderment at fairytale souq scenes, herbalists trading concoctions straight out of Harry Potter, cupboard-sized shops chock-a-block with spangled Cinderella-style slippers, and the chaotic, thrumming spectacle of Djemaa el-Fna lit up at night.
The key to a successful trip is child-friendly accommodation. Fair warning: riad plunge pools and steep stairs aren’t exactly childproof, and sound reverberates through riad courtyards. Most riad owners and staff, however, dote on babies and will provide cots and high chairs, and prepare special meals on request.
Entertainment That Costs Nothing
Marrakesh museums are a poor substitute for the live theatre of the souqs and the Djemaa el-Fna.
AEarly mornings are quieter in the souqs, meaning less hassle and a better view of craftspeople at work.
AEarly evenings (6pm to 8pm) are best for Djemaa dance troupes and musicians, and offer chance encounters with Moroccan families also doing the rounds.
Discover Marrakshi Culture
Let the kids dig a bit deeper into Marrakshi culture.
AThey'll be souq-ready with Cafe Clock's 'Kech Download, a 90-minute crash course in Moroccan culture and common phrases.