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  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  CHERRY BLOSSOM SPOT

  The Chidori-ga-fuchi moat surrounding Kitanomaru-kōen explodes with cherry blossoms in spring, making it a prime hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) spot. You can also rent pedal boats here to view the blossoms from the water.

  1Marunouchi

  oIntermediathequeMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5777-8600; www.intermediatheque.jp; 2nd & 3rd fl, JP Tower, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-6pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat; dJR Yamanote line to Tokyo, Marunouchi exit)F

  Dedicated to interdisciplinary experimentation, Intermediatheque cherry picks from the vast collection of the University of Tokyo (Tōdai) to craft a fascinating, contemporary museum experience. Go from viewing the best ornithological taxidermy collection in Japan to a giant pop-art print or the beautifully encased skeleton of a dinosaur. A handsome Tōdai lecture hall is reconstituted as a forum for events, including the playing of 1920s jazz recordings on a gramophone or old movie screenings.

  Tokyo StationLANDMARK

  (東京駅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tokyostationcity.com/en; 1-9 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; dJR lines to Tokyo Station)

  Tokyo Station celebrated its centenary in 2014 with a major renovation and expansion. Kingo Tatsuno's original elegant brick building on the Marunouchi side has been expertly restored to include domes faithful to the original design, decorated inside with relief sculptures. It's best viewed straight on from the plaza on Miyuki-dōri, the rooftop garden of the KITTE shopping mall, or the terrace on the 7th floor of the Shin-Maru Building.

  Tokyo International ForumARCHITECTURE

  (東京国際フォーラム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5221-9000; www.t-i-forum.co.jp; 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Yūrakuchō, central exit)F

  This architectural marvel designed by Rafael Viñoly houses a convention and arts centre, with eight auditoriums and a spacious courtyard in which concerts and events are held. The eastern wing looks like a glass ship plying the urban waters; take the lift to the 7th floor and look down on the tiny people below. Also look out for the statue of Ōta Dōkan, the samurai who first built the Edo Castle in 1457.

  Tokyo International Forum | WORLDPICTURES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  THE GREENING OF MARUNOUCHI

  The ongoing rejuvenation of the Marunouchi, Ōtemachi and Yūrakuchō districts by Mitsubishi Estates incorporates a fair amount of greenery in the form of rooftop lawns at KITTE, vertical gardens (at Marunouchi Brick Square) and trees (along Naka-dōri).

  The greenest of the green, though, is local recruitment firm Pasona (パソナ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6734-1260; 2-6-4 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda-ku; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; bTōzai line to Ōtemachi, exit B6). The exterior of its nine-storey office is clad in plants, while inside around 200 species of fruits, vegetables, rice and herbs make up its urban farm. Staff take meetings beneath trellises from which tomato plants and grape vines dangle, sitting on benches under which bean sprouts germinate. The company canteen, surrounded by water grasses and flowers, hosts classical-music miniconcerts each day at noon that are open to the public.

  1Nihombashi

  Nihombashi (Nihonbashi)BRIDGE

  (日本橋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nihonbashi-tokyo.jp; 1 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exits B5 & B6)

  Guarded by bronze lions and dragons, this handsome 1911-vintage granite bridge over Nihombashi-gawa is partly obscured by the overhead expressway. It's notable as the point from which all distances were measured during the Edo period and as the beginning of the great trunk roads (the Tōkaidō, the Nikkō Kaidō etc) that took daimyō (feudal lords) between Edo and their home provinces.

  Nihombashi lion | KPG_PAYLESS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Mitsui Memorial MuseumMUSEUM

  (三井記念美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mitsui-museum.jp; 7th fl, Mitsui Main Bldg, 2-1-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; adult/student ¥1000/500; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A7)

  Stately wood panelling surrounds a small collection of traditional Japanese art and artefacts, including ceramics, paintings and nō (stylised Japanese dance-drama) masks, amassed over three centuries by the families behind today’s Mitsui conglomerate.

  On permanent display is a reconstruction of the interior of the Jo-an tea-ceremony room; the original National Treasure is in Inuyama.

  Kite MuseumMUSEUM

  (凧の博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3275-2704; www.tako.gr.jp/eng/museums_e/tokyo_e.html; 5th fl, 1-12-10 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; adult/child ¥200/100; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat; bGinza line to Nihombashi, exit C5)

  There are 300 or so kites in this small but fascinating museum, located above the restaurant Taimeiken, including brilliantly painted ones based on folk characters, woodblock prints or samurai armour. None are particularly old (they’re made of paper, after all), but they’re amazing to admire nonetheless. Ask for an English booklet at reception.

  Kite Museum | MARK BASSETT / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

  WORTH A DETOUR

  NINGYōCHō & BAKUROCHō

  East of Nihombashi, towards the Sumida-gawa, are Ningyōchō and Bakurochō, two Shitamachi (low city) areas that are worth exploring, if you have more time in Tokyo.

  Ningyō means doll – these and puppets were once made here when Ningyōchō was a base for performing arts, including kabuki and bunraku. Kabuki is still performed at the neighbourhood's Meiji-za theatre. Zone in on the charming shopping street Amazake Yokochō lined with age-old businesses and named after the sweet, milky sake drink amazake; you can sample it at Futaba (双葉 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.futaba-tofu.jp; 2-4-9 Nihombashi-ningyōchō, Chūō-ku; h7am-7pm; bHibiya line to Ningyōchō, exit A1), along with various sweet and savoury eats made from tofu.

  There are also plenty of craft shops and food stalls, selling freshly made rice crackers and taiyaki (fish-shaped hot cakes stuffed with sweet azuki bean paste), another tasty local speciality. West across Ningyōchō-dōri from Amazake Yokochō (甘酒横丁 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bHibiya line to Ningyōchō, exit A1), you'll easily spot Tamahide ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3668-7651; www.tamahide.co.jp; 1-17-1 Nihombashi-Ningyōchō, Chūō-ku; oyakodon from ¥1500, dinner set-course menu from ¥6800; h11.30am-1pm daily, 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 4-10pm Sat & Sun; bHibiya line to Ningyōchō, exit A1) by the line of customers waiting for a space inside the restaurant; it has been serving up its signature oyakodon (chicken cooked in a sweet soy sauce with egg and served over a bowl of rice) since 1760.

  Further north, the wholesale district of Bakurochō has morphed into a mini-hub for small galleries and craft shops. Standouts include the various businesses in the Agata Takezawa Building such as the gallery-cafe Art + Eat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6413-8049; www.art-eat.com; 2nd fl, Agata Takezawa Bldg, 1-2-11 Higashi-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-7pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; dJR Sobu line to Bakurochō, exit 2), and the elegant craft shop Starnet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5809-3336; www.starnet-bkds.com; 1-3-9 Higashi-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; dJR Sobu line to Bakurochō, exit 2).

  5Eating

  oDhaba IndiaSOUTH INDIAN¥

  (ダバ インディア MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3272-7160; http://dhabaindia.com/dhaba/index.html; 2-7-9 Yaesu, Chūō-ku; lunch from ¥850, mains from ¥1370; h11.15am-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm & 5-10pm Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Kyōbashi, exit 5)

  Indian meals in Tokyo don't come much better than those served at this long-established restaurant with deep-indigo plaster walls. The food is very authentic, particularly the curries served with basmati rice, naan or crispy dosa (giant lentil-flour pancakes). Set lunches are spectacularly good value.

  oTaimeikenJAPANESE¥

  (たいめいけん MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3271-2464; www.taimeiken.co.jp; 1-12-10 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; lunch from ¥800, omelette ¥1950; h11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; bGinza line to Nihombashi, exit C5)

  Yoshoku, Western cuisine adapted to Japanese tastes, has been the draw here since 1931, in particular its borscht and coleslaw (a bargain ¥50 each). For the food movie Tampopo
(1985), directed by Itami Jūzō, it created Tampopo omuraisu (an omelette wrapped around tomato-flavoured rice) and it's been a signature dish ever since.

  oHōnen ManpukuJAPANESE¥

  (豊年萬福 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3277-3330; www.hounenmanpuku.jp; 1-8-16 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; mains ¥1280-1850; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A1)

  Hōnen Manpuku's interior is dominated by giant washi (Japanese handmade paper) lanterns, beneath which patrons tuck into bargain-priced beef or pork sukiyaki and other traditional dishes. Ingredients are sourced from gourmet retailers in Nihombashi. Lunchtime set menus are great value, and there's a riverside terrace in the warmer months.

  Nihonbashi Dashi BarJAPANESE¥

  (日本橋だし場 はなれ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5205-8704; www.ninben.co.jp; 1st fl, Coredo Muromachi 2-3-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; mains from ¥840, lunch/dinner set course from ¥950/1500; h11am-10pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A4)

  A key ingredient of the stock dashi is flakes of katsuobushi (dried bonito), which the Nihombashi-based Ninben has been making and selling since the Edo period. In this restaurant the company showcases its product in myriad delicious ways, including soups, salads and rice dishes.

  Tokyo Rāmen StreetRAMEN¥

  (東京ラーメンストリート MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tokyoeki-1bangai.co.jp/ramenstreet; B1 First Avenue Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; ramen from ¥800; h7.30am-10.30pm; dJR lines to Tokyo Station, Yaesu south exit)

  Eight hand-picked rāmen-ya operate branches in this basement arcade on the Yaesu side of Tokyo Station. All the major styles are covered – from shōyu (soy-sauce base) to tsukemen (cold noodles served on the side). Long lines form outside the most popular shops, but they tend to move quickly.

  2Neighbourhood Walk

  Imperial Palace Grounds

  Start Kudanshita subway station, exit 2

  End Tokyo Station

  Length 1.5km; two to three hours

  From the subway exit, walk uphill and across the Ushiga-fuchi moat to 1Tayasu-mon. Dating from 1635, the northern gate to Kitanomaru-kōen was once part of the castle Edo-jō. Just inside the park is the 2Nippon Budōkan, a concert and martial-arts hall originally built for the 1964 Olympics.

  Follow the road south branching off to the right to find the 3Crafts Gallery, a handsome recreation of a red-brick building that was once the headquarters of the imperial guards. Next, view some exceptional artworks at the 4National Museum of Modern Art (MOMAT); on the 4th floor, the ‘Room with a View’ provides a beautiful multi-layered panorama of your next destination: the Imperial Palace East Garden.

  Cross the Ōte Moat and enter the palace gardens via 5Kitahanebashi-mon, a drawbridge gate that was the principal entrance to Edo Castle's north side. Beyond the gate is 6Tenshudai, all that remains of the castle's donjon (main keep). Climb the stone base for views across the lawn towards the octagonal 7Tōkagakudō Concert Hall, built in 1966 for the 60th birthday of Empress Kojun.

  Meander down the Bairin-zaka, a slope lined with more than 50 plum trees to the 8Ninomaru Grove, one of the prettiest parts of the garden with a pond and the elegant Suwano-chaya teahouse.

  Exit the gardens via the Ōte-mon, the old main gate to the castle. Across the road, next to the Palace Hotel is 9Wadakura Fountain Park; and next door the pedestrianised central reservation of ginko-tree-lined aGyoko-dōri. It provides the perfect frame from which to admire the elegant brick facade and twin domes of bTokyo Station.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  oNihombashi ToyamaBAR

  (日本橋とやま館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6262-2723; http://toyamakan.jp; 1-2-6 Nihombashi-muromachi, Chūō-ku; h11am-9pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit B5)

  Scattered around central Tokyo you'll find many places like this that promote the products of a region of Japan. At this slickly designed outlet, there's a a great bar offering a selection of Toyama's best sakes from 17 different breweries. A set of three 30mL cups costs a bargain ¥700 (90mL cups from ¥600 each). English tasting notes are available.

  Manpuku ShokudōPUB

  (まんぷく食堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3211-6001; www.manpukushokudo.com; 2-4-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; cover charge ¥300; h24hr; dJR Yamanote line to Yūrakuchō, central exit)

  Down your beer or sake as trains rattle overhead on the tracks that span Harumi-dōri at Yūrakuchō. This convivial izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery), plastered with old movie posters, is open round the clock and has bags of atmosphere.

  Happy hour, when beers are ¥280, runs from 11am to 8pm Monday to Friday and 3pm to 8pm Saturday.

  Peter: the BarCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6270-2763; http://tokyo.peninsula.com/en/fine-dining/peter-lounge-bar; 24th fl, 1-8-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; hnoon-midnight, to 1am Fri & Sat; bHibiya line to Hibiya, exits A6 & A7)

  The Peninsula (ザ・ペニンシュラ東京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6270-2288; www.peninsula.com/tokyo; 1-8-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; r from ¥61,000; naiWs; dJR lines to Yūrakuchō, Hibiya exit) hotel's Peter: the Bar distinguishes itself with dress-circle views across the Imperial Palace, Hibiya Park and Ginza as well as a generous happy hour (5pm to 8pm Sunday to Thursday), when drinks and snacks are all ¥800. You can also sample the Peninsula's famous afternoon tea up here.

  100% Chocolate CafeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3273-3184; www.meiji.co.jp/sweets/choco-cafe; 2-4-16 Kyōbashi, Chūō-ku; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Kyōbashi, exit 5)

  Meiji is one of Japan's top confectionery companies and this cafe, at its Tokyo headquarters, showcases the brand's range of chocolate. Fittingly, the interior sports a ceiling that mimics a slab of chocolate. Sample three types of drinking chocolate for ¥500, then peruse the scores of different flavoured bars that you can take away.

  Craft Beer Market MitsukoshimaeBEER HALL

  (Craft Beer Market三越前店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6262-3145; www.craftbeermarket.jp; Coredo Muromachi 3, 1-5-5 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; cover ¥300, beer small/large ¥480/780; h11am-2pm & 5-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11.30pm Sat & Sun; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A4)

  If trawling Nihombashi's shops has given you a thirst, this craft-beer pub has some 30 kinds of ales and Japanese snacks such as fried chicken. It has some outdoor seating.

  3Entertainment

  Cotton ClubJAZZ

  (コットンクラブ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3215-1555; www.cottonclubjapan.co.jp; 2F Tokia, Tokyo Building, 2-7-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; hshows 7pm & 9.30pm Mon-Sat, 5pm & 8pm Sun; dJR lines to Tokyo Station, Marunouchi south exit)

  You’re more likely to hear contemporary international jazz stars here than musicians harking back to the 1920s New York club it honours. Also on the roster is a medley of interesting Japanese artists such as saxophonist Itō Takeshi. Check the website for schedules.

  Nippon BudōkanLIVE MUSIC

  (日本武道館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3216-5100; www.nipponbudokan.or.jp; 2-3 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; bHanzōmon line to Kudanshita, exit 2)

  The 14,000-plus-seat Budōkan, a legendary concert hall for big acts from the Beatles to Beck, was originally built for the martial-arts championships (judo, karate, kendō, aikidō) of the 1964 Olympics (budō means 'martial arts') and will be pressed into service again for the 2020 event.

  Meiji-zaTHEATRE

  (明治座 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3666-6666; www.meijiza.co.jp; 2-31-1 Nihonbashi-Hamachō, Chūō-ku; bShinjuku line to Hamachō, exit A2)

  There's been a kabuki theatre here since the late 19th century. Concerts are also held here, along with the dance, music and animation show Sakura – Japan in the Box (http://sakura-meijiza.com/en).

  7Shopping

  oCoredo MuromachiMALL

  (コレド室町 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://31urban.jp/lng/eng/muromachi.html; 2-2-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; hmost shops 11am-7pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A4)

  Spread over three buildings, this sty
lish development hits its stride at Coredo Muromachi 3. This section houses several well-curated floors of top-class, Japanese-crafted goods including cosmetics, fashion, homewares, eyeglasses and speciality food.

  oMitsukoshiDEPARTMENT STORE

  (三越 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3241-3311; www.mitsukoshi.co.jp; 1-4-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; h10am-7pm; bGinza line to Mitsukoshimae, exit A2)

  Mitsukoshi's venerable Nihombashi branch was Japan’s first department store. It's a grand affair with an entrance guarded by bronze lions and a magnificent statue of Magokoro, the Goddess of Sincerity, rising up from the centre of the ground floor. For the full effect, arrive at 10am for the bells and bows that accompany each day’s opening.

  oKITTEMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://jptower-kitte.jp/en; 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; dJR lines to Tokyo, Marunouchi south exit)

  This well-designed shopping mall at the foot of JP Tower incorporates the restored facade of the former Tokyo Central Post Office. It is notable for its atrium, around which is arrayed a quality selection of craft-oriented Japanese-brand shops selling homewares, fashion, accessories and lifestyle goods.