Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 8

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.greateasternmall.com.my; 303 Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; jAmpang Park)

  This compact, upscale mall houses the flagship branch of British India ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.britishindia.com.my; Great Eastern Mall, 303 Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; LRT Ampang Park), Malaysian fashion and accessories store Pedlars and local shoemaker Thomas Chan, as well as Alexis Ampang ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4260 2288; www.alexis.com.my; ground fl, Great Eastern Mall, 303 Jln Ampang; LRT Ampang Park), a bistro by day and at weekends one of the city's top venues for live jazz music.

  5KLCC & Around

  Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery CanteenCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 161 Jln Ampang; mains RM6-10; h11am-2.30pm Mon-Fri; v; LRT Ampang Park)

  Join office workers for a tasty vegetarian lunch of various fried rice and noodle dishes, dumplings and delicious yong taofu (vegetables stuffed with a tofu paste) in this airy canteen behind the monastery. The food contains no onions or garlic, and there are drinks and fruit available. For the best selection of dishes try to get here before noon.

  WondermamaMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wondermama.my; ground flr, Ave K, 156 Jln Ampang; mains RM13-27; h10am-9.30pm; c; LRT KLCC)

  A good choice for a modern take on classic Malaysian dishes such as nasi lemak and Nonya laksa in a fun, contemporary setting.

  Melur & ThymeFUSION$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2181 8001; www.melurandthyme.com; ground fl, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; mains RM14-59; h8am-9.30pm; LRT KLCC)

  This appealingly designed restaurant's name, conjoining Malay and Western ingredients, hints at its game plan: offering Malay and Western tapas-sized portions to be mixed and shared. For breakfast (8am to 11am) the coconut pancakes with caramelised honeydew melon is a very tasty precursor to a day's shopping in Suria KLCC.

  There is also a branch at Nu Sentral.

  Little Penang KaféMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2163 0215; level 4, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; mains RM14-22; h11.30am-9.30pm; LRT KLCC)

  At peak meal times expect a long line outside this mall joint serving authentic food from Penang, including specialities such as curry mee (spicy soup noodles with prawns).

  Nasi Kandar PelitaFOOD HALL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 5532; www.pelita.com.my; 149 Jln Ampang; mains RM10-25; h24hr; LRT KLCC)

  There's round-the-clock eating at the Jln Ampang branch of this chain of excellent mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food courts. Among the scores of dishes available from the various stalls are magnificent roti canai (flat, flaky bread) and spiced chicken cooked in the tandoor.

  Mama SanINDONESIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %019-787 5810; www.mamasankualalumpur.com; lot 46, ground fl, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; mains RM42-75; h8.30am-10.30pm; W; LRT KLCC)

  A KL offshoot of the original Bali Mama San, this stylish joint at Suria KLCC occupies a prime position overlooking the park's fountains. The menu is peppered with appealing Asian ingredients such as ginger flowers, lime leaves, tamarind and chilli. The dishes are a bit hit and miss, though, so choose carefully and don't over-order as portions are large.

  Acme Bar & CoffeeINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 2288; www.acmebarcoffee.com; unit G1, The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC; mains RM44-99; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 9.30am-1am Sat, to midnight Sun; LRT Ampang Park)

  Blink and you might be in a chic bistro in New York, Paris or Melbourne. The menu changes seasonally so there's always something new to try, from tasty nibbles such as salted, egg yolk–battered chicken strips to bigger dishes like chargrilled cod steak with ABC kicap (a type of soy sauce), chickpea ratatouille and papaya-pineapple salsa.

  CilantroFRENCH, JAPANESE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2179 8082; www.cilantrokl.com; MiCasa All Suite Hotel, 68b Jln Tun Razak; mains RM188-218, set lunches/dinners from RM150/298; hnoon-2pm Fri, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W; LRT Ampang Park)

  Takashi Kimura is often lauded as one of KL’s most accomplished chefs. The eclectic range of Japanese–French-inspired dishes might include the likes of unagi (eel) paired with foie gras and mesclun, Japanese sole with noisette butter, with a vintage rum baba for dessert.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  TROIKA SKY DINING

  Sophisticated dining with outstanding views of KLCC's glittering high rises are the highlights of the Troika complex of restaurants and bars. Try Cantaloupe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com; level 23a, tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; set lunches RM120, 4-/6-/8-course dinners RM250/360/450; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, 6.30-10.30pm daily; LRT Ampang Park) for modern French, and Strato ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com; level 23a, tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; mains RM45-120; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm; LRT Ampang Park) for Italian that aims for homely authenticity. Troika's bars include Latin-themed Fuego ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com; level 23a, Tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; h6pm-midnight; LRT Ampang Park), wine bar Claret and cocktail bar Coppersmith.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  JALAN ALOR

  The collection of roadside restaurants and stalls lining Jln Alor ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h24hrs; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) is the great common denominator of KL’s food scene, hauling in everyone from sequinned society babes to penny-strapped backpackers. From around 5pm till late every evening, the street transforms into a continuous open-air dining space with hundreds of plastic tables and chairs and rival caterers shouting out to passers-by to drum up business (avoid the pushiest ones!). Most places serve alcohol and you can sample pretty much every Malay Chinese dish imaginable, from grilled fish and satay to kai-lan (Chinese greens) in oyster sauce and fried noodles with frogs’ legs. Thai food is also popular.

  Recommended options:

  AKedai Makanan Dan Minuman TKS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 32 Jln Alor; small mains RM15-35; h6pm-4am; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) for mouth-tingling Sichuan dishes.

  ARestoran Beh Brothers ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21a Jln Alor; dishes RM5-10; h24hr; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang), one of the few places open from 7am for breakfast, where Sisters Noodle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21a Jln Alor; noodles RM6; h7am-4pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) serve delicious 'drunken' chicken mee (noodles) with rice wine, and there's also a good Hong Kong–style dim sum stall.

  AWong Ah Wah (WAW; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-9 Jln Alor; chicken wings per piece RM3.20; h5pm-4am; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) is unbeatable for addictive spicy chicken wings, as well as grilled seafood, tofu and satay.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  6Bukit Bintang

  oHeli Lounge BarCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 5034; www.facebook.com/Heliloungebar; level 34, Menara KH, Jln Sultan Ishmail; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 11am Sun; W; DRaja Chulan)

  If the weather's behaving, this is easily the best place for sundowners in KL. Nothing besides your lychee martini and the cocktail waiter stands between you, the edge of the helipad and amazing 360-degree views. Steady your hands as you have to buy your first drink at the somewhat cheesy bar below and carry it up yourself.

  Go early to catch the sunset shortly after 7pm and for the 6pm to 9pm happy hour prices. After 9pm a dress code applies and your group will need to stump up for a bottle in order to enter.

  oPisco BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 2900; www.piscobarkl.com; 29 Jln Mesui; h5pm-1am Tue, Thu & Sun, to 2am Wed, to 3am Fri & Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  Take your pisco sour in the cosy, exposed-brick interior or the plant-filled courtyard of this slick tapas joint. The chef is half Peruvian, so naturally the ceviche here is good. DJs regularly spin the decks at the upstairs dance space on Friday and Saturday nights.

  Zion ClubCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/theZionKL; 31 Changkat Bukit Bintang; cover charge RM50; h5pm-3am Sun-Tue, to 5am Wed-Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This slick new club smack in the middle of the Changkat Bukit Bintang strip has three separate spaces where DJs pump out dance a
nd house, hip-hop and reggae until 5am. There's a happy hour in the reggae bar from 5pm until the club opens at 10pm, after which drink prices skyrocket and a RM50 cover charge applies.

  Rabbit HoleBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010-899 3535; www.rabbithole.com.my; lot 14 & 16, Changkat Bukit Bintang; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  Not much evidence of Alice or a Wonderland here but it is one of the more convivial bars at the head of KL's rowdiest nightlife strip. There's plenty of seating and a variety of differently themed areas as well as a long bar and pool tables.

  Feeka Coffee RoastersCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/feeka.coffeeroasters; 19 Jln Mesui; h9am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri-Sun; W; DRaja Chulan)

  Set in a minimally remodelled shophouse on hip Jln Mesui, Feeka delivers both on its premium coffee (choose from microlot beans or espresso-based drinks) and its food (breakfast items served from 10am to 6pm and a menu including omelettes and pulled-pork sandwiches served from noon to 10pm, as well as delicious cakes).

  There's a lovely tree-shaded patio area and a gallery space upstairs, making this a place to linger.

  TWG TeaTEAHOUSE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.twgtea.com; level 2, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Offering a mind-boggling range of more than 400 teas and infusions, this KL offshoot of the original Singaporean TWG is a luxurious place to refresh during your rounds of the mall. The teas are beautifully packaged for gifts, too. As well as afternoon tea (2pm to 6pm), it also serves brunch from 10am to 3pm and meals from noon to 10pm.

  Don't miss TWG's delectable tea-infused macarons, with flavours such as Moroccan mint tea and matcha, black tea and blackcurrant and Earl Grey and chocolate.

  NagabaBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 0858; www.facebook.com/nagaba.kualalumpur; 31 Jln Mesui; h4pm-1am Mon & Tue, to 2am Wed & Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  This three-level bar and club has a ground-floor industrial-style bar with comfy chairs, and a club on the next floor up. The Rooftop Mojito Bar, with fairy lights, big shared tables and benches, and a DJ deck, has a relaxed, urban vibe. Come from 8pm to 10pm for the all-you-can-drink mojito buffet, with free-flowing cocktails for RM60 per person.

  Taps Beer BarMICROBREWERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tapsbeerbar.my; One Residency, 1 Jln Nagasari; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; W; DRaja Chulan)

  Taps specialises in ale from around the world, with some 80 different microbrews on rotation, 14 of them on tap. There's live music Thursday to Saturday at 9.30pm and regular beer festivals and events. Taps also serves pub grub (mains RM15 to RM50) and a Sunday roast (RM35 to RM38).

  NewensTEAHOUSE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2719 8550; www.newensteahouse.com; Indulge fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Serving the Maids of Honour egg tarts made famous by the UK-based tea shop of the same name, Newens offers a genteel place to indulge in afternoon tea (RM60, 2.30pm to 5.30pm) that's a world away from the bustle of Bukit Bintang's malls.

  Neo TamarindBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2148 3700; www.tamarindrestaurants.com; 19 Jln Sultan Ismail; h6-11pm; DRaja Chulan)

  This sophisticated restaurant-bar feels like a slice of Bali smuggled into the heart of KL. Sip cocktails by flickering lights and a waterfall running the length of the long bar. The Thai and Indochinese food is also lovely, should you want to start with dinner.

  Luk Yu Tea HouseTEAHOUSE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2782 3850; www.starhillgallery.com; Feast fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h11am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  On the Feast Floor of Starhill Gallery but away from the heady Feast Village area, the secluded Luk Yu offers fine Chinese and Taiwanese teas along with dim sum and other dainty snacks.

  Village BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2782 3852; Feast fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h11am-11pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  The village in question is the Feast Village (a collection of bars and restaurants) in the basement of Starhill Gallery. Columns of glasses and bottles and cascades of dangling lanterns lend an Alice in Wonderland quality to this establishment, which is best visited for a pre- or postmeal evening drink. There's a happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

  Whisky Bar Kuala LumpurBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2143 2268; www.thewhiskybarkl.com; 46 Changkat Bukit Bintang; h3pm-1am Sun-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri & Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  This specialist bar stocks more than 500 different whiskies, including single malts, blends and bourbons. Also offers a good selection of cigars.

  SnowflakeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://snowflake.com.my; 4th fl, Pavilion KL; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  We’re prepared to believe the cute marketing blurb saying that Jimmy learned how to make these refreshing jelly-based drinks and desserts from his Taiwanese gran – they make you realise how much more there is to soft drinks in Asia than canned soda.

  WingsBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wingsmusicafe.com; 16 Lg 1/77a; h6pm-1.30am; W; DImbi)

  This youthful hang-out has regular live music, though most drinkers prefer to chill out on the front terrace.

  J Co Donuts & CoffeeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jcodonuts.com; basement, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  The wacky creations may have cheesy names (Tira Miss U or Copa Banana anyone?) but they look so damn tasty that it’s difficult to pass by this fried dough and coffee operation.

  Blueboy DiscothequeGAY & LESBIAN

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 1067; https://www.facebook.com/blueboydiscotheque/home; 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; h9pm-2am; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This two-decades-old bar is the dinosaur of the KL gay scene, with cabaret shows from Wednesday to Sunday. Friday and Saturday nights are most popular – expect a crowd of older expats, locals and drag divas.

  Ceylon BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://ceylonbar.com; 20-2 Changkat Bukit Bintang; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri, 2pm-3am Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  Big, comfy lounges and board games set the tone at one of the friendliest drinking holes in KL. It's noticeably more relaxed than others along this frantic strip. Come early to bag one of the terrace tables or one of the sofas inside. Tuesday is quiz night and there's live music on Thursday and Friday.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  The city's newest entertainment complex, TREC (www.trec.com.my), is located a short taxi ride east of Bukit Bintang on Jln Tun Razak.

  TREC's prime attraction is Zouk ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.zoukclub.com.my; TREC, 436 Jln Tun Razak; RM60; h10pm-3am Sun-Tue, to 4am Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang): if you're going to visit one club in KL, make it this one. The seven interlinked DJ spaces include the Main Room, which reverberates to trance, electro, techno and trance, Velvet Underground for commercial house music and Ace, a hip-hop and R & B club.

  Next to Zouk is Electic Blvd, a strip of food and beverage outlets. Along here you'll find the excellent new live music and comedy venue Live House hosting regular stand-up gigs by international comedians as well as bands and DJs. It also serves tasty Southern-style soul food (fried chicken, burgers and wraps) by the popular burger makers KGB.

  Supperclub ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 0866; www.supperclubkl.com; TREC, Jln Tun Razak; h5pm-3am; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) is so-called for its nightly transformation from gastro-bar to club. It's a polished place, pumping out house music from the early evening and set up for DJs and dancing later at night. Also check out COMO ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %014-711 2185; www.facebook.com/comokl/; TREC, 436 Jln Tun Razak; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang), a tunnel-like bar with curved, exposed brick walls and bright graffiti-style murals, which is a great spot for some Spanish tapas, expertly mixed cocktails and live music.

  6K
LCC & Around

  oMarini's on 57BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2386 6030; www.marinis57.com; level 57, Menara 3, Petronas KLCC; h5pm-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; LRT KLCC)

  This is about as close as you can get to eyeballing the upper levels of the Petronas Towers from a bar. The stellar views are complemented by sleek interior design and attentive service. When booking (advised), be aware that it's the lively bar not the laid-back whisky lounge that has the view of the towers. There's also a dress code.

  DivineBlissGAY & LESBIAN

  (G Tower Rooftop; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Divine.KL; rooftop, G Tower, 199 Jln Tun Razak; RM45; h10pm-3am Sat; LRT Ampang Park)

  On Saturday nights the swanky rooftop bar at the G Tower hotel hosts the popular gay night DivineBliss. International DJs and quality sound and light systems attract a young crowd, who pack the dance floor until the early hours. Bring photo ID for entry.

  RGB At The Bean HiveCAFE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2181 1329; www.rathergoodbeans.com; 35 Jln Damai; h9am-4pm Mon, 8.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat & Sun; W; LRT Ampang Park)

  This is what you get when a boutique coffee roaster teams with health-conscious cooks in a quiet green oasis. RBG serves excellent hand-drip coffees and espresso-based drinks as well as vegan and vegetarian breakfasts, sandwiches and pastas, all in a cute bungalow with an inner courtyard and big grassy yard.