Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 7

  Sek Yuen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9222 0903; 315 Jln Pudu; mains RM30-45; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm Tue-Sun; LRT Pudu) Occupying the same beautiful, time-worn, art deco building for the past 60 years, Sek Yuen serves up meals that offer an experience of KL food history. There’s no written menu but you can trust the aged chefs toiling in the wood-fired kitchen to make something delicious. Their kau yoke (pork belly), char siu (barbecued pork), village chicken and crispy-skin roast duck are all classics.

  Fei Por ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2143 4798; 211 Jln Pudu; mains RM7-14; h6.30pm-4am Fri-Wed; LRT Pudu) Famous for its chicken rice served into the early hours, this long-running operation in an art deco shophouse also serves congee (rice porridge) and char siu that's worth the journey.

  Wong Kee ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 2512; 30 Lg Baba, Jln Nyonya; pork plates RM17; h12.30-2.30pm Mon-Sat; DImbi) Get here early as there's only a two-hour window of opportunity to sample chef Wong Peng Hui’s famous roasted pork. Chicken rice is also on the menu.

  Shopping

  Eu Yan Sang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.euyansang.com.my; Shaw Parade, Jln Changkat Thambi Dollah; h9.30am-6.30pm; DImbi) Eu Kong opened his first Yang Sang (meaning ‘caring for mankind’) Chinese medicine shop in 1879 in Malaysia. There are now scores of outlets carrying the company’s herbal remedies across the globe, including this impressive one.

  Purple Cane Tea Square ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 1200; www.purplecane.my; 1st fl, Shaw Parade, Jln Changkat Thambi Dollah; h11am-9pm; DImbi) All things to do with tea are catered for at the main branch of this tea retailer.

  KWC Fashion Mall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kenangacity.com.my; 28 Jln Gelugor, off Jln Kenanga; h10am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat; LRT Hang Tuah) This complex in a strikingly modern high-rise block offers head-to-toe fashion items from some 800 wholesale dealers. The Kenanga Food Court on level 7 has some good outlets and an outdoor seating area with awesome views across the train tracks back to Bukit Bintang.

  5Eating

  5Bukit Bintang

  oTong Shin Hokkien MeeHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tengkat Tong Shin, near cnr Jln Tong Shin; mains RM7; h7.30pm-midnight Wed-Mon; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This unassuming stall has been serving up its satisfyingly thick, slippery noodles for more than 20 years. The Hokkien mee here is prepared in the traditional style with pork lard, soy sauce, lardons and prawns, cooked over a charcoal flame to add a smoky flavour. It's a popular place, but once you tuck in you'll be glad you waited.

  Blue Boy Vegetarian Food CentreCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6695 0498; Jln Tong Shin; mains RM5-10; h8am-6pm; v; DImbi)

  Run by Chung Ching Thye and his son for the last 40 years, this remarkable hawker-style cafe at the base of a backstreet apartment block serves only vegetarian dishes. If you bypass a couple of stalls that use egg, it's also vegan. Try the char kway teow (noodles fried in chilli and black-bean sauce).

  Jalan Imbi Hawker StallsHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Imbi & Jln Barat; dishes RM6; h5pm-midnight; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  A car park by day turns into a great open-air hawker stall area by night. All the usual hawker favourites are here, as well as stalls selling fresh amra (a local, sweet, plumlike fruit) and star-fruit juice and coconut water. Try the dried chilli lajoia pan mee (chilli noodles) topped with mushrooms and anchovies.

  Restoran Win Heng SengHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 183 Jln Imbi; dishes RM5-10; h6.30am-midnight; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This street-side kopitiam is a popular spot for a local breakfast. Try the famous Jln Imbi Pork Noodle stall (open 6.30am to 3pm). Come evening time, the Fatt Kee Hokkien Mee stall (open 5pm to midnight) is considered one of KL's top purveyors of the filling, fried noodle dish.

  Lot 10 HutongHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; basement, lot 10, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; dishes RM9-18; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Lot 10 Hutong was the first mall to encourage top hawkers to open branches in a basement food court. In its well-designed space it has pulled in names such as Soong Kee, which has served beef noodles since 1945. Look also for Kong Tai's oyster omelettes, Hon Kee's Cantonese porridge, Kim Lian Kee's Hokkien mee and Penang Famous Fried Koay Teow.

  Food RepublicFOOD HALL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 8006; www.foodrepublic.com.my; level 1, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; mains RM5-17; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  An excellent choice of meals and snacks and slick design make this one of the best shopping mall food courts in KL. It’s also surrounded by scores of proper restaurants.

  RococoCAFE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-974 0192; www.facebook.com/RococoCafeMY; 7th fl, Melange Boutique Hotel, 14 Jln Rembia; mains RM14-30; h11am-10.30pm Wed-Mon; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This atmospheric cafe with views across the rooftops of Jln Alor and Tengkat Tong Shin has a tempting central display of freshly baked bread and homemade pastries, cookies and cakes. Also serves brunch from 11am to 3pm and an all-day menu of salads, sandwiches, pasta and rice dishes. Opens for dinner from 6pm to 10.30pm by reservation only.

  Lima BlasPERANAKAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 1681; www.facebook.com/limablas25; 25 Jln Mesui; mains RM19-33; hkitchen 11am-3pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, bar to midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; DRaja Chulan)

  With a hip, bric-a-brac design that channels old Malaysia to a T, this restaurant and open-air bar is a top spot for a casual night out of exotic food and postdinner drinks. Try the Nonya fried chicken, aubergine in sambal sauce and the sago gula melaka (sago pearls in a brown-sugar sauce).

  Ben'sINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 5290; www.thebiggroup.co/bens; level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; mains RM25-78; h11am-11pm; W; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  The flagship brand of the BIG group of dining outlets delivers on both style and substance. There's a tempting range of Eastern and Western comfort foods, appealing living-room design and nice touches such as a box of cards with recipes and talk topics on each table. Other branches are in Suria KLCC, Publika and Bangsar Shopping Centre.

  Pinchos Tapas BarTAPAS$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 8482; www.pinchos.com.my; 18 Changat Bukit Bintang; tapas RM18-66; hfood 5-11pm, bar to 3am, Tue-Sun; DRaja Chulan)

  This is the real deal for tapas, run by a Spaniard and packed with KL's approving Spanish-speaking community. A great place for a solo meal and drink or fun with a group while you munch your way through the wide-ranging menu.

  LevainCAFE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 6611; www.levain.com.my; 7 Jln Delima; pastries from RM5, mains RM17-24; h7.30am-10.30pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  You can see the fresh bread being taken out of the oven at this appealing bakery, cake shop and cafe in a quiet part of the city centre. The outdoor patio is a pleasant spot for a lunch of homemade pizza or a pastry with a local inflection, like a curry chicken doughnut or seaweed, ham and chicken-floss roll.

  SantoukaJAPANESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2143 8878; www.santouka.co.jp/en; level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; ramen sets RM30-40; h11am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Slurp tasty ramen noodles in a rich pork broth at this joint in Pavilion's Tokyo Street, an outlet of a famous stall originating from the Japanese island of Hokkaido.

  Sao NamVIETNAMESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2144 1225; www.saonam.com.my; 25 Tengkat Tong Shin; mains RM30-70; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  This reliable place is decorated with colourful communist propaganda posters and has a courtyard for dining outside. The kitchen turns out huge plates of delicious Vietnamese food, garnished with basil, mint, lettuce and sweet dips. The starter banh xeo (a huge Vietnamese pancake with meat, seafood or vegetables) is a meal in itself.

  Al-Amar Lebanese CuisineLEBANESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2166 1011; www.al-amar.com; level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit
Bintang; mains RM25-63; hnoon-12.30am; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  There's no shortage of restaurants in Bukit Bintang serving Middle Eastern food, but few are as consistently good as Al-Amar. Choose from a tasty range of meze and grilled meats or go simple with a shawarma sandwich. If you've got a big appetite, feast on the Sunday lunch buffet (RM80).

  Restaurant MuarMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2144 2072; 6g Tengkat Tong Shin; mains RM10-20; h11am-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Ever-reliable home cooking at an unpretentious place with some outdoor tables. Try the petai squid and prawns, crispy fried eggs and cendol (shaved ice, coconut milk and jelly noodle dessert).

  NerotecaITALIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2070 0530; www.neroteca.com; ground fl, Seri Bukit Ceylon, 8 Lg Ceylon; mains RM22-119; h11.30am-11.30pm; DRaja Chulan)

  This stylish Italian joint will satisfy your cravings for authentic pizza and pasta.

  Twenty One Kitchen & BarINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 0021; www.drbar.asia; 20-1 Changkat Bukit Bintang; mains RM18-46; hnoon-3am; W; DRaja Chulan)

  Plenty of choice on the menu here, including snacks like pandan chicken skewers and reasonably priced mains (think burgers, risotto and pasta as well as a number of local dishes). The bar upstairs, with a deck overlooking the street, gets cranking at weekends when a DJ spins chill and dance tunes.

  Sahara TentMIDDLE EASTERN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2144 8310; 41 Jln Sultan Ismail; mains RM27-52; h11am-3pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  A long-established Middle Eastern restaurant serving meaty kebabs, couscous and Turkish coffee.

  oSushi HinataJAPANESE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 1349; www.shin-hinata.com; St Mary Residence, 1 Jln Tengah; lunch/dinner set meals from RM77/154; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat; DRaja Chulan)

  It's quite acceptable to use your fingers to savour the sublime sushi served at the counter, one piece at a time, by expert Japanese chefs from Nagoya. There are also private booths for more intimate dinners. The kaiseki-style full course meals are edible works of art.

  oBijanMALAYSIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2031 3575; www.bijanrestaurant.com; 3 Jln Ceylon; mains RM30-90; h4.30-11pm; DRaja Chulan)

  One of KL’s best Malaysian restaurants, Bijan offers skilfully cooked traditional dishes in a sophisticated dining room that spills out into a tropical garden. Must-try dishes include rendang daging (dry beef curry with lemongrass), masak lemak ikan (Penang-style fish curry with turmeric) and ikan panggang (grilled skate with tamarind).

  French FeastFRENCH$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 6283; www.frenchfeast.com.my; 20 Tengkat Tong Shin; mains RM52-159; h6.30-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-10.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Occupying a beautifully restored old family home, French Feast is the new venture from the team behind former KL eatery La Vie En Rose. Classic French-bistro style dishes here include cassoulet, house-smoked sausages with puy lentils and imported cheeses and wines, as well as an indulgent weekend brunch menu accompanied by freshly baked pastries and breads.

  NerovivoITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2070 3120; www.nerovivo.com; 3a Jln Ceylon; mains RM74-165, pizzas RM28-68; hnoon-3pm Sun-Fri, 6-11.30pm daily; DRaja Chulan)

  This long-standing Italian joint serves a range of solid appetisers, pastas, risottos and of course pizzas in a chic, partly open-air dining room.

  EnakMALAYSIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 8973; www.enakkl.com; feast fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; mains RM26-95; hnoon-11pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Hidden at the back of Starhill's Feast floor, Enak is worth searching out for its finely presented Malay cuisine with a sophisticated twist.

  FukuyaJAPANESE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2144 1022; www.fukuya.com.my; 9 Jln Delima; set lunches/dinners from RM40/92; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 6-10pm Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  The quality of Chef Takao Ando's beautifully presented sushi, sashimi and tempura dishes more than lives up to this restaurant's elegant setting in a Zen-style bungalow surrounded by bamboo.

  PregoITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2773 8338; www.westindining.com.my; Westin Kuala Lumpur, 199 Jln Bukit Bintang; mains RM50-90, 4-course set menus RM190; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; vc; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  Quality Italian pasta and pizzas in family-friendly surroundings.

  Marco PoloCHINESE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 2233; http://marcopolo.com.my; 1st fl, Wisma Lim Foo Yong, 86 Jln Raja Chulan; mains RM30-118; h11am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-10.30pm Sun; W; DRaja Chulan)

  At lunch, pick from the steamed baskets of dim sum being wheeled in carts at this classy, old-fashioned Chinese joint. It also offers a dim sum buffet on Sunday. The extensive menu includes traditional Chinese dishes as well as more inventive items such as venison with dragon fruit.

  El CerdoEUROPEAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 0511; http://elcerdokl.com/; 43-45 Changkat Bukit Bintang; mains RM38-108; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

  If you're craving pork, this ‘nose-to-tail eating’ joint specialising in ham, sausages and all things piggy is the place to go. The Sunday beer brunch special includes all-you-can-eat pork dishes and free-flowing cava, wine or beer for RM168.

  WORTH A DETOUR

  AMPANG

  Ampang means 'dam', a reference to the miners' dams created during KL's heyday as a boom town for tin mining. Jln Ampang is one of KL's most historic streets, once leading from the mansions of the tin tycoons to the mines themselves – this is why the area to the northwest of the city is called Ampang. Only a handful of the old mansions remain, including the one used for the Malaysia Tourism Centre.

  Further west of the KLCC along and around Jln Ampang are a few places worth searching out; these are best accessed by taxi.

  Sights & Activities

  Ruang PemulaGALLERY

  (RuPé; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4279 7720; www.rupe.com.my; Block 1, Pusat Perdagangan Taman Dagang, Jln Dagang Besar, Ampang; hby appointment; LRT Ampang)F

  Pakhruddin Sulaiman and his wife, Fatimah, have been amassing one of Malaysia's top private art collections since around 1996, when they bought two major works, Brothers and Does History Change?, in the first solo exhibition of Bayu Utmo Radjikin. These works by the now-prominent contemporary Malaysian artist are among hundreds displayed and stored in the must-see private gallery nicknamed RuPé and meaning 'beginner's space'. Call to arrange a time to visit and get directions from Ampang LRT station.

  Other established and up-and-coming artists with works here include many from the art collective Matahati, Fuad Osman, Shukri Mohammed, Amron Omar and Fadilah Karim. Figurative forged-metal sculptures by Raja Shahrima that are a cross between ancient Malay warriors and manga robots, are dotted among the gallery spaces, which are arranged to resemble living rooms, with designer chairs and Pakhruddin's extensive art and design library.

  My Batik Visitor CentreFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4251 5154, 016-220 3190; www.mybatik.org.my; 333 Persiaran Ritchie, off Jln Ritchie; h8am-5pm; LRT Ampang Park)

  Founded by artist Emilia Tan and set in a pretty compound with frangipani trees, My Batik sells colourful batik-print fashions and offers demonstration sessions and DIY batik-painting classes for adults and children (weekends are popular with families). The outdoor Green Tomato Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/greentomatocafe.com.my; 333 Persiaran Ritchie, off Jln Ritchie; mains RM15-20; h8am-5pm; c; LRT Ampang Park) serves all-day Western breakfasts. Call to arrange workshop bookings.

  Eating

  oZaini SatayMALAYSIAN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %013-369 3934; www.zainisatay.com; Naan Corner, Jln Kerja Ayer Lama; satay sticks RM1-1.50; h6-11.30pm; LRT Ampang LRT)

  Mohamed Zaini comes from a long line of satay-stall o
wners – his grandfather was known as the 'King of Satay' in the 1960s – and these days KLites regularly make the trip to Ampang to satisfy their craving for the best satay in town. Come early, as the stall (find it opposite a 7-Eleven) closes once the meat sells out.

  Tamarind SpringsINDONESIAN$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4256 9300; www.tamarindrestaurants.com; Jln 1, Taman TAR, Selangor; mains RM42-110; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-midnight)

  With an open-sided, Balinese-style wooden dining room, backed by jungle and overlooking a golf course, Tamarind Springs makes for a romantic setting for a special occasion. The extensive cocktail list and Indochinese dishes served here more than live up to the lush surroundings. Make reservations.

  Mei Keng Fatt Seafood RestaurantCHINESE$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4256 6491; www.meikengfatt.com; 1 Lg Awan 6, Kuala Ampang; fresh seafood per person approx RM60-100; h11.30am-2.30pm & 4pm-midnight)

  This long-running seafood restaurant, famous for its chilli crab, is great for group dining, but check the prices before ordering.

  Shopping

  Great Eastern MallMALL