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30DhammadaC6

  Green DiscoveryD3

  31Lao Red CrossD6

  32Luang Prabang LibraryC4

  33Luang Prabang YogaD5

  34Luang Say CruiseD3

  35Mekong River CruisesF1

  MotolaoC3

  36Off Road LaosD6

  37Shompoo CruiseD2

  TamarindE2

  38Tiger TrailC4

  39White ElephantC3

  4Sleeping

  401989 GuesthouseE6

  41AmantakaC6

  42Ammata Guest HouseE2

  43Auberge les 3 NagasE2

  44Bel Air Boutique ResortF6

  45Bou Pha GuesthouseD3

  46Boungnasouk GuesthouseD2

  47Chang InnE2

  48En Provence GuesthouseE2

  49Khong Kham VillaC3

  50Khounsavanh GuesthouseB6

  51Kongsavath GuesthouseE2

  52Luang Prabang River LodgeB4

  53Magic M GuesthouseF1

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  56Meune Na Backpacker HostelE6

  57Muang Lao Riverside VillaD2

  58Oui GuesthouseF2

  59Pack Luck VillaD2

  60Paphai Guest HouseD3

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  65Sayo Naga GuesthouseA5

  66The ApsaraE2

  67Victoria Khoum Xiengthong GuesthouseF1

  68Villa ChampaD2

  69Villa ChitdaraD2

  70Villa PumalinA4

  71Villa SantiE2

  72Villa SayadaD5

  73Villa SenesoukE2

  74Xiengthong PalaceF1

  5Eating

  75Baguette StallsB5

  76Big Tree CafeD2

  77Blue LagoonC3

  78Café TouiD3

  79Coconut GardenD3

  80Couleur CafeD3

  81Dyen SabaiE3

  82Joma Bakery CafeB5

  83Joma Bakery CafeE3

  84Le BannetonF2

  85Le Café Ban Vat SeneE3

  86L'Elephant RestaurantD2

  87Morning MarketB4

  88Night Food StallsB4

  89Riverside Barbecue RestaurantB4

  90Rosella FusionE2

  91TamarindE2

  92TangorD3

  The ApsaraE2

  93Xieng Thong Noodle-ShopF1

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  94Chez MattD3

  95Icon KlubD3

  96Lao Lao GardenD4

  UtopiaD5

  3Entertainment

  97Garavek StorytellingE2

  L'Etranger Books & TeaD5

  7Shopping

  Big Tree GalleryD2

  98Handicraft Night MarketB4

  99KopnoiD5

  100Luang Prabang ArtisansD3

  101Ma Te SaiD5

  Monument BooksD2

  102Ock Pop TokE2

  Orange TreeD2

  103Pathana Boupha Antique HouseE6

  104Queen Design LaoF1

  105TAEC ShopE2

  8Information

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  107Immigration OfficeD6

  108Jewel Travel LaosC4

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  112Provincial Tourism DepartmentB5

  113Treasure TravelD3

  The Upper Peninsula

  The northern tip of the peninsula formed by the Mekong River and the Nam Khan is jam-packed with glittering palm-fronded monasteries. Well before dawn they resonate mysteriously with drumbeats and as the morning mists swirl they disgorge a silent procession of saffron-clad monks. The most celebrated monastery is Wat Xieng Thong, but several others are quieter, less touristy, and intriguing in their own right.

  A fine viewpoint overlooks the river junction from outside Hotel Mekong Riverside. At the peninsula's far tip, a bamboo bridge (toll 5000K return) that's rebuilt each dry season crosses the Nam Khan, allowing access to a 'beach' and basic sunset-watching bar and offering a shortcut to Ban Xang Khong, 1km northeast.

  oWat Xieng ThongBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດຊຽງທອງ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Th Sakkarin; 20,000K; h8am-5pm)

  Luang Prabang's best-known monastery is centred on a 1560 sǐm (ordination hall). Its roofs sweep low to the ground and there's a stunning 'tree of life' mosaic set on its western exterior wall. Close by are several stupas and three compact little chapel halls called hŏr. Hŏr Ɖąi, shaped like a tall tomb, now houses a standing Buddha. The Hŏr Ɖąi Pha Sai-nyàat, dubbed La Chapelle Rouge – Red Chapel – by the French, contains a rare reclining Buddha.

  Wat PakkhanBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດປາກຄານ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sakkarin)F

  Dated 1737 but rebuilt a century ago, Wat Pakkhan has a simple, appealingly archaic look with angled support struts holding up the lower of its two superposed roofs. Across the road, the ochre colonial-era villa that now forms Unesco offices ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sakkarin) was once the city's customs office.

  Wat SouvannakhiliBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດສຸວັນນະຄີລີ, Wat Khili MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Th Sakkarin)F

  The most prominent building of Wat Souvannakhili looks more like a colonial-era mansion than a monastery, but the small sǐm (ordination hall) is a classic of now-rare Xieng Khuang style.

  Wat SensoukaramBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດແສນສຸກອາຮາມ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sakkarin)F

  Rich ruby-red walls with intricate gold overlay give Wat Sensoukaram one of the most dazzling facades of all of Luang Prabang's temples. The name reportedly refers to the initial donation of 100,000K made to build it, a handsome sum back in 1718.

  2City Walk

  Old Luang Prabang

  Start Morning Market

  End Utopia

  Length 4.5km; four to five hours

  This walk meanders through the heart of the historic city in a leisurely half-day, assuming plenty of stops. We suggest starting bright and early to miss the afternoon heat on Phu Si, and avoiding Tuesday to fit in with museum opening times. But if you accept that it's the overall atmosphere and cafe scene that makes Luang Prabang special rather than any particular sights, the walk can work any time.

  After an early stroll through the 1Morning Market and a local breakfast, arrive at 2TAEC where you can peruse the excellent little exhibition on northern Laos' ethnic mosaic. Suitably fuelled, try to weave your way through the untouristed little maze of residential homes to reach the southern flank of 3Phu Si. Climb to 4That Chomsi before the day gets too hot. Or, if the air looks too hazy for city views, continue instead around the hill via Buddha's oversized 5footprint and descend to the main commercial street through 6Wat Siphoutthabat Thippharam. If you can arrive by 11am, visit the 7Royal Palace Museum to see how Lao royalty lived until 1975 and the Pha Bang Buddha statue. Afterwards meander through the palm-shaded footpaths of 8Xieng Mouane area to reach the 9Mekong waterfront with its inviting cafes and Lao-French colonial-era houses. If you didn't already explore them at dawn after the monks' alms procession, dip into a selection of atmospheric wats as you wander up the spine of the peninsula. Don't miss the most famous monastery of all, aWat Xieng Thong. Stroll back, taking in a stretch of the lovely bNam Khan waterfront and, in the dry season, cross the bamboo bridge for a well-deserved lunch at delightful cDyen Sabai. If the bridge isn't there (June to November), or you are walking in the afternoon, seek the winding path to dUtopia for a drink and peaceful views of the Nam Khan.

  Wat Wisunarat (Wat Visoun) Area

  Two of Luang Prabang's most historically important temples lie amid palms in pleasant if traffic-buzzed grounds offering glimpses towards Phu Si.

  Wat WisunaratBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດວິຊຸ�
�ຸນ, Wat Visoun MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Wisunarat; admission 20,000K; h8am-5pm)

  Though touted as one of Luang Prabang's oldest operating temples, it's actually an 1898 reconstruction built following the Black Flag raids. Peruse a sizeable collection of old gilded 'Calling for Rain' buddhas with long sinuous arms held to each side. These were placed here, along with some medieval ordination stones, for their protection, having been rescued from various abandoned or ravaged temples.

  That MakmoBUDDHIST SHRINE

  (ທາດໝາກໂມ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Phommatha)

  This lumpy hemispherical stupa is commonly nicknamed That Makmo, which translates as 'Watermelon Stupa'. Originally constructed in 1503, it was pillaged for hidden treasures during the 1887 destruction and the latest renovation in 1932 coated the stupa in drab grey concrete.

  TAK BAT: THE MONKS' CALL TO ALMS

  Daily at dawn, saffron-clad monks pad barefoot through the streets while pious townsfolk place tiny balls of sticky rice in their begging bowls. It's a quiet, meditative ceremony through which monks demonstrate their vows of poverty and humility while lay Buddhists gain spiritual merit by the act of respectful giving.

  Although such processions occur all over Laos, old Luang Prabang's peaceful atmosphere and extraordinary concentration of mist-shrouded temples mean that the morning's perambulations along Th Sakkarin and Th Kamal create an especially romantic scene. Sadly, as a result, tourists are progressively coming to outnumber participants. Despite constant campaigns begging visitors not to poke cameras in the monks' faces, the amateur paparazzi seem incapable of keeping a decent distance. Sensitive, non-participating observers should follow these guidelines:

  AStand across the road from the procession or better still watch inconspicuously from the window of your hotel (where possible).

  ARefrain from taking photos or at best do so from a considerable distance with a long zoom. Never use flash.

  AMaintain the silence (arrive by bicycle or on foot; don't chatter).

  If it's genuinely meaningful to you, you may take part in the ceremony – meaningful in this case implies not wanting to be photographed in the process. Joining in takes some preparation and knowledge to avoid causing unspoken offence. Don't be pushed into half-hearted participation by sales-folk along the route. Such vendors contribute to the procession's commercialisation and many sell overpriced, low-grade rice that is worse than giving nothing at all. Instead, organise some kao kai noi (the best grade sticky rice) to be cooked to order by your guesthouse. Or buy it fresh-cooked from the morning market before the procession. Carry it in a decent rice-basket, not a plastic bag. Before arriving, dress respectfully as you would for a temple (covered upper arms and chest, skirts for women, long trousers for men). Wash your hands and don't use perfumes or lotions that might flavour the rice as you're handing it out.

  Once in situ, remove your shoes and put a sash or scarf across your left shoulder. Women should kneel with their feet folded behind them (don't sit) while men may stand. Avoid making eye contact with the monks.

  South of the Centre

  oUXO Laos Information CentreMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252073, 020-22575123; www.uxolao.gov.la; off Th Naviengkham; admission by donation; h8-11.45am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)

  The sobering UXO Laos Information Centre helps you get a grip on the devastation Laos suffered in the Second Indochina War and how nearly 40 years later death or injury from unexploded ordnance (UXO) remains an everyday reality in several provinces. If you miss it here, there's a similar centre in Phonsavan. In September 2016 President Obama announced that the US would provide an additional US$90 million to address the problem of UXO in Laos over the next three years.

  Wat ManoromBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດມະໂນລົມ, Wat Mano, Wat Manolom MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Pha Mahapatsaman)F

  Winding lanes to the west lead to Wat Manorom, set amid frangipani trees just outside what were once the city walls (now invisible). This is possibly the oldest temple site in Luang Prabang and the sǐm (ordination hall) contains a sitting 6m-tall bronze Buddha originally cast in 1372. During the 1887 devastation the statue was hacked apart, but surviving elements were reconstituted in 1919; the missing limbs were replaced with concrete falsies covered in gold leaf in 1971.

  Wat That LuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດທາດຫຼວງ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10,000K; h8am-6pm)

  Traditionally the cremation site for Lao royalty, legend has it that Wat That Luang was originally established by Ashokan missionaries in the 3rd century BC. However, the current large sǐm (ordination hall) is an 1818 rebuild whose leafy column-capitals look more Corinthian than Indian. The sǐm is bracketed by two stupas, the larger of which reputedly contains the ashes of King Sisavang Vong, even though it was built in 1910, 50 years before his death.

  Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts CentreARTS CENTRE

  (OPT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212597; www.ockpoptok.com; h9am-5pm)S

  Set serenely close to the Mekong, this beautiful, traditionally styled workshop, where weavers, spinners and batik makers produce top-quality fabrics, offers free tours every half-hour. There's also a great riverside cafe serving drinks and excellent Lao food. Or try a cup of the surprisingly pleasant worm-poo tea – yes, a unique infusion made from silk-worm droppings. Better still, why not try a bamboo weaving course.

  Across the Mekong River

  For a very different 'village' atmosphere, cross the Mekong to Muang Chomphet. To get there, take a cross-river boat (local/foreigner 2000/5000K) from the navigation office ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8-11am & 2-4pm) behind the Royal Palace. Boats depart once they have a handful of passengers. Alternatively, boatmen at various other points on the Luang Prabang waterfront will run you across to virtually any point on the north bank for around 20,000K per boat. If water levels allow, a good excursion idea is to hire such a boat to the Wat Longkhun jetty then walk back via Ban Xieng Maen to the main crossing point. However, reaching Wat Longkhun by boat isn't always practicable due to seasonally changing sandbanks.

  Above the ferry landing on the other side, a branch of Jewel Travel Laos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55687663; www.jeweltravellaos.com; Sisavangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Muane; h8am-4pm; W) rents mountain bikes (per day 50,000K). However, you'll need neither bike nor map to visit the series of attractive monasteries that are scattered east along the riverbank from the traffic-free village of Ban Xieng Maen.

  Wat Xieng MaenBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດຊຽງແມນ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Xieng Maen; 10,000K)

  First founded in 1592, Wat Xieng Maen gained a hallowed air in 1867 by housing the Pha Bang for seven nights while on its way back to Luang Prabang after 40 years in Thai hands. The monastery's current, colourful sǐm (ordination hall) contains an attractive 'family' of buddhas and has stencilled columns conspicuously inscribed with the names of US donors who paid for their renovation.

  Wat ChomphetBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດຈອມເພັດ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Xieng Maen; h8am-5pm)

  Ban Xieng Maen's long, narrow, brick-edged 'street' slowly degrades into a rough track, eventually becoming little more than a rocky footpath. At about this point, climb an obvious 123-step stairway to find the 1888 Wat Chomphet fronted by greying twin pagodas. The hilltop temple is little more than a shell, but the site offers undisturbed views of the town and river.

  Wat LongkhunBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດລ່ອງຄຸນ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Xieng Maen; 10,000K; h8am-5pm)

  When the coronation of a Luang Prabang king was pending, he spent three days in retreat at Wat Longkhun before ascending the throne. The central sǐm (ordination hall) features old murals, one of which depicts giant fish attacking shipwrecked sailors. Ask at the ticket desk for the key required to visit Tham Sakkalin (admission incl with Wat Longkhun), a humid, slippery 100m-long limestone cave. It's a three-minute walk further east then up a few stairs. A few Buddha fragments are kept here. Bring your own torch (flashlight).


  Across the Nam Khan

  In the dry season, once water levels have dropped significantly, a pair of bamboo footbridges (2000K) are constructed, making for easy access to the Nam Khan's east bank and its semi-rural neighbourhoods. When the river is high (June to November), the bridges disappear.

  Crossing the southern bamboo bridge, climb steps past the highly recommended garden cafe Dyen Sabai, emerging beside Wat Punluang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Phan Luang). The road to the left leads to Watpakha Xaingaram ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) with its ruined shell of a temple, and Wat Xiengleck ( GOOGLE MAP ), in an Angkorian-style state of atmospheric dilapidation. Half a kilometre beyond, Ban Xang Khong has a 400m-strip of old houses and craft boutiques where you can watch weavers and papermakers at work and buy their work. The most striking gallery-workshop is Artisans du Mekong ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Xang Khong; h9am-4pm), behind a giant 'tusk' gateway, with its pleasant cafe.

  WORTH A TRIP

  LIVING LAND FARM

  Living Land (%020-77778335, 020-55199208; www.livinglandlao.com; Ban Phong Van; tour per person 344,000K; h8.30am-noon) is about five clicks out of Luang Prabang, on the road to Tat Kuang Si. It's a brilliant rice farm co-operative, where you can spend half a day learning how to plant and grow sticky rice, the ubiquitous dish of Laos. This includes prepping the paddy with gregarious water buffalo Rudolph – expect to be knee-deep in glorious mud! You'll never taste rice in the same way. Kids love it.

  Living Land helps educate children in disadvantaged families in the local community.

  2Activities

  Some of the most popular activities are based further outside of the city, but in Luang Prabang itself, it's all about yoga, massages and cookery classes.