Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  Coley Tiny cocktail bar serving expertly mixed drinks.

  Ril's Bar Sophisticated assignation spot with inventive mixologists.

  Best for Views

  Heli Lounge Bar Thrilling rooftop drinks in the heart of Bukit Bintang.

  Marini's on 57 Book a seat for a bird's-eye view of the KLCC.

  Mantra Bar KL Look across the suburbs to the KL skyline from the rooftop of Bangsar Village II mall.

  Mai Bar Fun poolside bar overlooking KL Sentral.

  Best LGBT Friendly

  DivineBliss Saturday-night rooftop party with renowned guest DJs.

  Marketplace Sweat it out on the dance floor, cool off on the roof.

  Moontree House Come here to tap into KL's discreet lesbian scene.

  3Entertainment

  KL has plenty of entertainment options, but you have to keep your ear to the ground to discover the best of what's going on. Conservative tastes and censorship mean that quite a lot of what is on offer can be bland and inoffensive, but occasionally controversial and boundary-pushing performances and events are staged.

  Theatre & Traditional Performing Arts

  If you want to see and hear traditional Malaysian dance and music, there are regular shows at Malaysia Tourism Centre during the day, as well as every night at the nearby restaurant Saloma. Central Market's Kasturi Walk is the stage for free music and dance events at the weekends. The beautifully renovated Panggung Bandaraya theatre is the venue for Mud, a light-hearted musical telling the story of Kuala Lumpur.

  The NGO Pusaka (www.senipusaka.com) works to keep traditional Malaysian arts alive by introducing them to the general public with free shows and exhibitions, and by training a new generation in such forms as wayang kulit (shadow puppetry), mak yong (dance-theatre) and various Chinese performing arts. Shows are by donation and often feature some outstanding older performers and the occasional young phenom.

  Live Music

  Major international popular-music artists often add KL to their Asia tours, but they sometimes have to adapt their shows to accommodate devout Muslim sensibilities.

  Various restaurants and bars, including Pisco Bar, have live music, and Live House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-372 2374; www.facebook.com/livehousekl; TREC, 436 Jln Tun Razak; RM30; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-3am Mon-Wed, to 5am Thu & Fri, 6pm-5am Sat, to 3am Sun; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) at the new entertainment complex TREC hosts regular live comedy and music. Jazz is also popular (check out the line-up at No Black Tie), and the accomplished Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra is well worth catching in concert at the Dewan Filharmonik Petronas.

  At the Movies

  KL's many multiplexes screen major international and local movies. The venues are generally top class. Tickets, which range from RM15 to RM30, can be booked online and are cheaper for screenings earlier in the day.

  Cultural centres including Alliance Française ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2694 7880; http://alliancefrancaise.org.my/en; 15 Lg Gurney; h9am-7pm Tue-Thu, to 6pm Fri, to 5pm Sat; LRT Ampang Park) and Goethe Institut ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2164 2011; www.goethe.de; 6th fl Menara See Hoy Chan, 374 Jln Tun Razak; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; jAmpang Park) screen foreign movies with subtitles; check the websites for details.

  Spectator Sports

  KLites are fans of football (soccer) – for details of upcoming games, check the website of the Football Association of Malaysia (www.fam.org.my). Basketball games take place at the MABA Stadium. The city also gets caught up in the Formula 1 Malaysian Grand Prix, held at the Sepang International Circuit.

  Need to Know

  Tickets

  Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.com.my)

  TicketCharge (www.ticketcharge.com.my)

  Information

  KL Dance Watch (http://kldancewatch.wordpress.com) Blog with info and reviews on local contemporary-dance scene.

  Kakiseni (http://kakiseni.com) Event listings and more.

  Courses

  Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre Acting, dance and courses in traditional instruments such as the gamelan (traditional Malay orchestra).

  Sutra Dance Theatre Courses in Odissi and other forms of classical Indian dance.

  Temple of Fine Arts Courses in classical Indian dance, song and music.

  Arts & Music Festivals

  AUrbanscapes (www.urbanscapes.com.my; hApr-May) User-generated arts festival that brings together art, music and design.

  AKL International Jazz & Arts Festival (www.klinternationaljazz.com; hSep) Held in September at the University of Malaya.

  ACooler Lumpur Festival (www.coolerlumpur.com; hSep) Publika is the venue for this cultural fest that focuses on a different artistic genre each year.

  Entertainment by Neighbourhood

  ABukit Bintang & KLCC Orchestral classical music, intimate jazz and pop performances all get a showing at venues in these central areas.

  AChinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas Free dance and martial-arts performances at Central Market on the weekend.

  AMasjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL Istana Budaya and Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre are two of the city's major performing-arts venues.

  ALake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar Performing-arts events at Publika or classical Indian dance shows in Brickfields.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  No Black Tie Intimate space hosting jazz and classical-music concerts.

  Dewan Filharmonik Petronas Gorgeous classical concert hall at the foot of the Petronas Towers.

  Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre Progressive theatre and dance venue set in a beautiful park.

  Publika Events at the MAP performance spaces; free movies in the central courtyard.

  Live House Comedy and live music at the new entertainment complex TREC.

  Panggung Bandaraya The old City Hall has transformed into an elegant theatrical venue for the musical Mud.

  Best for Movies

  GSC Pavilion KL Treat yourself to the Gold Class section.

  TGV Cineplex Get your Hollywood fix at this multiplex.

  Coliseum Theatre Go Bollywood at this historic Masjid India theatre.

  Best Spectator Sports Venues

  Selangor Turf Club Lay your bets at the racecourse.

  MABA Stadium Catch a basketball game.

  Sepang International Circuit Hosts the Formula 1 Malaysian Grand Prix.

  Best Dance Venues

  Temple of Fine Arts Brickfields home of classical Indian dance.

  Sutra Dance Theatre Shows choreographed by a Malaysian dance legend.

  Istana Budaya Major venue for dance and theatre performances.

  Best for Jazz

  No Black Tie Discover some of the best talents on the local scene.

  Sino The Bar Upstairs First Monday of the month is a jazz jamming event.

  Forbidden City Hear jazz and blues at this new live-music venue on Changkat Bukit Bintang.

  7Shopping

  Kuala Lumpur is a prizefighter on the Asian shopping parade, a serious rival to retail heavyweights Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong. On offer are appealing handicrafts, major international brands (both legit and fake versions), masses of malls and decent sale prices. The city's traditional markets are hugely enjoyable and atmospheric experiences, regardless of whether you have a purchase in mind.

  Textiles stall | JOHAN DESIGN ASSOCIATES/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Where to Shop

  Malls & Department Stores

  KL and the Klang Valley are liberally peppered with air-conditioned malls, some so big it would take several days to do them justice – Mid Valley Megamall and Sunway Pyramid, for example, are communities unto themselves, with hotels, entertainment facilities and, in the former, a 100-year-old Hindu temple!

  Anchoring the malls are department stores:

  AEON At Mid Valley Megamall.

  Metrojaya At Mid Valley Megamall.

  Parkson At Pavilion KL.

  Isetan At Suria KLCC and the Gardens Mall.

  Markets

  Day markets focused on fresh
produce include Pudu, Chow Kit and Chinatown. Vendors at pasar malam (night markets) sell prepared food, clothing, accessories, DVDs and CDs and the like. Some occur daily, such as the one along Jln Petaling in KL’s Chinatown; others are once or twice a week.

  Look out for flea, fashion and craft markets, such as the monthly events at Publika and Bangsar Shopping Centre.

  What to Buy

  Skilled artisans may be a dying breed, but you can still find great handmade craft items for sale in KL. Fashion, contemporary-art galleries, antique stores and interior-design shops are also worth a look.

  There are bargain buys, but Malaysia is too affluent to offer dirt-cheap prices. Counterfeit goods are a problem – not just Prada handbags and Rolex watches but also software and electronics. Buyer beware!

  Fashion

  The area around KWC Fashion Mall is home to KL's rag trade, importing the latest looks from factories and designers across Asia. Major labels:

  British India (http://britishindia.com.my) For high-quality linen and cotton pieces at Pavilion KL, Mid Valley Megamall, Bangsar Shopping Centre and Publika; its cheaper brand JustB has outlets in Publika and Gardens Mall.

  Padini (www.padini.com) Offering many brands, several of which – such as Seed, Padini Authentics and Vincci (for shoes and accessories) – can be spotted at all the major malls.

  Bonia (www.bonia.com) Quality Italian-style leather fashions and accessories for men and women.

  If you're wanting to snap up some designer-brand bargains, visit Melium Outlet ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://meliumoutlet.com; 63 Jln Tasik Utama 3, Lake Fields, Sungai Besi; h10am-7.30pm; LRT Sungai Besi), the end-of-line and bargain sale outlet for luxury brand retailer Melium; its 50-plus labels include D&G and Hugo Boss, as well as Malaysian and Asian designer ready-to-wear garments.

  Textiles

  Batik is produced by drawing or printing a pattern on fabric with wax, then dyeing the material. The wax resists the various colours and, when washed away, leaves the pattern. Batik can be made into clothes or homewares or simply displayed as works of art.

  Another textile to look out for is kain songket, a luxurious fabric with gold and silver threads woven throughout the material.

  Basketry & Mengkuang

  All sorts of useful household items are made using rattan, bamboo, swamp nipah grass and pandanus leaves. Mengkuang (a local form of weaving) uses pandanus leaves and strips of bamboo to make baskets, bags and mats. Look in the Central Market and around Chinatown for these items.

  Kites & Puppets

  Eye-catching wayang kulit (shadow puppets) are made from buffalo hide to portray characters from epic Hindu legends, while kites are made from paper and bamboo strips in a variety of traditional designs. The crescent-shaped wau bulan (moon kite) can reach 3m in length and breadth, while the wau kucing (cat kite) is the logo of Malaysia Airlines. You can find kites and puppets in Central Market.

  Metalwork

  Malaysia's skilled silversmiths specialise in filigree and repoussé work, where designs are hammered through the silver from the underside. Objects crafted out of pewter are synonymous with Selangor. Royal Selangor has several outlets in major malls, including Suria KLCC and Pavilion KL.

  Woodcarving

  The Mah Meri tribe from Pulau Carey off the coast of Selangor are particularly renowned for their sinuous carvings of animist spirits. You can find these Orang Asli crafts at a stall in Central Market.

  Need to Know

  Opening Hours

  Hours vary, but most places are open from around 9.30am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. Department stores and malls are open 10am to 10pm daily.

  Sales Times

  Malaysia Grand Prix Sale Coincides with the dates of the sporting event

  Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival June to August

  Malaysia Year-End Sale End November to early January

  Refunds

  Policies vary from shop to shop; as a rule, you’ll find more flexible, consumer-friendly service at international-brand stores.

  Shopping Festivals

  Hari Kraf Kebangsaan (www.kraftangan.gov.my; hlate Feb-early Mar) February-March

  Malaysian International Shoe Festival (www.misfshoe.com; hApr-May) April

  Malaysian Fashion Week (www.malaysiafashionweek.my; Matrade Exhibition Convention Centre; hNov) November

  Handicrafts Courses

  Aziz Ma'as Learn traditional and innovative batik from master artist Aziz Ma'as at his studio at the foot of Bukit Nanas.

  Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur Try your hand at traditional Malay crafts such as batik at the craft village in the grounds of this one-stop crafts complex.

  Royal Selangor Pewtersmithing Workshops Entertaining classes where you make your own pewter bowl or jewellery; bookings required.

  My Batik Visitor Centre Batik-painting classes for adults and children in an attractive compound with frangipani trees.

  Shopping by Neighbourhood

  ABukit Bintang & KLCC Best for malls and the traditional wet market at Pudu.

  AChinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas Jln Petaling's night market and interesting local stores from florists to funerary goods.

  AMasjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL Jln TAR's fabric shops, Chow Kit's wet market and the night market in Masjid India.

  ALake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar Bangsar Baru is packed with boutiques; go-to malls are Publika and Bangsar Village.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  Publika Innovative complex combining culture, art and great food with retail.

  Thisappear Independent, designer-owned boutique selling a range of local labels.

  Central Market Best selection of local arts and crafts.

  Wei-Ling Gallery Invest in a piece of contemporary art.

  Museum of Ethnic Arts Antique tribal pieces from Borneo and elsewhere.

  Best For Local Handicrafts

  Asli Craft Beautiful items handmade by indigneous groups from across Malaysia.

  Wau Tradisi Traditional paper and bamboo kites.

  Rhino Hand-painted clogs and other handicrafts.

  Best Bookshops

  Kinokuniya KL's best printed-matter pit stop.

  Silverfish Books Local publisher with its own small bookstore.

  Junk Bookstore Shelves piled high with secondhand books.

  Best Fashion Designers

  Khoon Hooi Luxury fashion with an edge from an award-winning designer.

  Comoddity Original pieces by local menswear designer Vincent Siow.

  d.d.collective Contemporary high-end fashion by Paris-based Malaysian designer Jonathan Liang.

  Mimpikita Local fashion made wih gorgeous printed fabrics.

  Aseana Plenty of bling-tastic frocks, including pieces by top designer Nurita Harith.

  Best Boutiques

  Thisappear Designer-owned boutique selling pieces by Joe Chia, Kozo and Alia Bastaman among others.

  Lonely Dream Offering own-label clothing and other designers' wares.

  Shoes Shoes Shoes A shoe- and accessory-lover's dream store, with branches in Bangsar and Publika.

  Fabspy Urban unisex fashion by a range of Malaysian designers.

  League of Captains Sells T-shirts and caps by local label Pestle & Mortar Clothing.

  Best Malls

  Publika Schedule a day to browse the shops, galleries and the many great places to eat.

  Pavilion KL Setting the gold standard for Bukit Bintang's gaggle of malls.

  Sungei Wang Plaza Who knows what you'll discover in this multilevel warren of youth cool and fashion.

  Suria KLCC A retail nirvana at the base of the Petronas Towers.

  Best Museum Shops

  Islamic Arts Museum Top-notch range of arts and crafts, plus design and art books.

  Gahara Galleria The National Textiles Museum shop sells quality batik and local designer goods.

  Museum of Ethnic Arts Nearly everything is for sale at this extraordinary private collection of local tribal arts.

&nb
sp; Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur The Karakenya section is stacked with all kinds of batik prints.

  Best Markets

  Pudu Market There's always plenty of activity at KL's biggest wet market.

  Bazaar Baru Chow Kit A heady sensory experience awaits at this long-established wet market.

  Bangsar Sunday Market Weekly fresh-produce market with plenty of hawker stalls for grazing.

  Petaling Street Market Piles of pirated goods alongside the real deal.

  Neighbourhoods at a Glance

  1Bukit Bintang & KLCC

  Bukit Bintang (Star Hill) – also known as the Golden Triangle – is home to a cluster of major shopping malls and many excellent places to eat and drink, not least of which is Jln Alor, KL's most famous food street. KLCC, which stands for Kuala Lumpur City Centre, is the vast development anchored by the Petronas Towers. East of here are places of interest along Jln Tun Razak and Jln Ampang. South of Bukit Bintang is the distinctly Chinese district of Pudu, home to an atmospheric wet market.

  2Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

  You don't have to look too hard to find traces of old KL in Chinatown's shophouse-lined streets, which border the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers. This is where the city was born, reached its teenage years with the development of Chinatown and celebrated its late 20s with the establishment of the British colonial ensemble around Merdeka Square. The Malay fort that once topped the jungle-clad hill Bukit Nanas has long gone, replaced by one of the city's most recognisable landmarks, the Menara KL telecommunications tower.