Lonely Planet Morocco Page 5

  Choosing a Guide

  A flash-looking, English-speaking faux guide from Marrakesh is no substitute for a gnarled, old, local mountain guide who knows the area like the back of his hand.

  Official guides carry photo-identity cards. Guides should be authorised by the Fédération Royale Marocaine de Ski et Montagne or l’Association Nationale des Guides et Accompagnateurs en Montagne du Maroc. They should be credited as guides de montagne (mountain guides), which requires study for at least six months at the Centre de Formation aux Métiers de Montagne, a school for mountain guides at Tabant in the Aït Bougomez valley.

  Accompagnateurs (escorts) will have had only one week’s training, and will not be insured to lead mountain trips; guides de tourisme (tourist guides) are not qualified to lead treks.

  Official mountain guides, who can always show an identity card as proof of their status, have been trained in mountain craft, including first aid. In times of uncertain weather or in an emergency, they will be infinitely more efficient than a cheaper guide lacking proper training. If a guide is reluctant to show a photo card, it probably means they either don't have one or it has expired (they should be renewed every three years).

  Some guides de montagne have additional training in rock climbing, canyoning and mountaineering. All guides speak French, and some also speak English, Spanish or German. Several young Moroccan female guides, who have succeeded in breaking into the previously all-male world of mountain guiding, are in high demand.

  Hiring a Guide

  There are more than 400 accredited mountain guides in Morocco, and many can be found through the bureaux des guides in Imlil, Setti Fatma, Chefchaouen, and Maroc Profond in Tabant (Aït Bougomez Valley).

  At the time of writing, the minimum rate for official guides was Dh350 per day (per group, not per person). This rate can vary according to season and location. The rates do not include food and accommodation expenses.

  Guides generally get free accommodation in refuges and gîtes, but you may be asked to cover their meals. If you walk a linear route, you’ll also be expected to pay for their return journey.

  Negotiate all fees before departure and count on giving at least a 10% tip at the end, unless you have been unhappy with the service.

  If your guide is organising your trip (rather than a tour operator), be sure to go through all aspects of the trek ahead of time. Discuss where each day will start and end; whether tents will be shared (most guides have a tent and/or sleeping bag); how many mules will be hired; who will be cooking (if there are enough of you, the guide may insist on hiring a cook, usually for about Dh100 a day); food preferences; water provision; and the division of food and equipment among the group.

  Mules

  Mules (and the odd donkey) are widely used in Morocco for transporting goods through the mountains, and you can easily hire one to carry your gear.

  If you are relying on heavy local supplies, or are in a large group, hiring a mule makes especially good sense. As a rough guide, mules can carry up to 120kg – or up to four sets of gear. If the route is very steep or demanding, the muleteer may insist upon carrying less. He will have the wellbeing of his meal ticket in mind, although Moroccans are generally unsentimental about their pack animals.

  Some trekking routes are not suitable for mules, although detours (for the mule) are often possible. If high passes are covered in snow, porters may have to be used instead of mules (one porter can carry up to 18kg).

  There is usually a standard charge for a mule and muleteer of about Dh100 per day. As with guides, if you trek a linear route, you’ll also be expected to pay for the muleteer’s return journey.

  On the Trek

  Accommodation

  If you would rather not carry a tent, you can often stay in refuges and in villages at either gîtes d’étape (basic homestays or hostels) or chez l’habitant (in someone’s home). Especially in remote areas, village rooms may not even have a mattress on the floor, although in places such as Imlil they often come with the luxury of a bed.

  The bulk of trekking accommodation options in the High and Middle Atlas are gîtes. In the Rif and Anti Atlas, gîtes are uncommon, and accommodation is more often in local homes or in tents.

  Gîtes d'Étape

  Gîtes provide basic accommodation, often offering little more than a foam mattress in an empty room, or on a roof terrace or balcony. They have basic bathrooms and toilets, although the better ones have hot showers. Given notice, the proprietor can rustle up a tajine.

  At the time of writing, the standard rate was Dh50 per person per night, although prices can vary according to season and location. Meals are extra (usually Dh30 to Dh50 per person), as are hot showers (usually Dh10 to Dh15 per shower).

  The more upscale, privately owned gîtes typically charge up to Dh200 per person for half-board, while rooms at one luxury kasbah in Imlil cost up to Dh280.

  Refuges

  CAF operates refuges in Imlil, Oukaïmeden, Tazaghart, Tacheddirt and on Toubkal. Officially, bookings should be made in advance through the Oukaïmeden refuge. However, in practice you can usually find out if space is available at the other refuges in the Toubkal region by asking in Oukaïmeden or Imlil. Refuges are often packed in July and August.

  CAF members and HI members get the cheapest price for a bed. Members of affiliated and recognised alpine organisations (eg the UK’s Alpine Club) and children aged under 16 years are also eligible for discounts.

  Food

  The choice of dry rations is limited in rural Morocco. You cannot be sure of finding much beyond powdered milk, a range of dried fruit and sachets of soup, biscuits, some tinned fish and dates. Supermarkets in larger towns and cities are a much better option, and if you take a mule, you will be able to plan a more varied diet.

  Bread, eggs, vegetables and some basic supplies (eg tea and tinned tuna) may be available in some mountain villages, but you cannot count on it. Meals can also be arranged in some villages (Dh30 to Dh50 per person is standard), especially at gîtes and refuges, although they usually need to be ordered in advance. Again, do not rely on local suppliers as your only source of food unless you have made previous arrangements.

  Change money in the nearest major town and ensure that you have plenty of small notes. If you do get stuck, euro notes may be accepted.

  Transport

  Many trailheads are off the beaten path as far as public transport goes. You might need to factor in the cost of hiring a grand taxi to get you to where you can start walking.

  WORDS TO TREK BY

  Even just a few words in a foreign language can make a big difference to your experience. The following words may be helpful on these treks. ‘(A)’ indicates Arabic, ‘(B)’ indicates Berber; other useful Arabic and Berber words can be found in the Glossary.

  adfel (B) – snow

  adrar (B) – mountain (plural idraren)

  afella (B) – summit

  agdal (B) – pasture (also aougdal)

  aghbalu (B) – water spring

  ain (A) – water spring

  aman (B) – water

  anzar (B) – rain

  argaz (B) – man

  asserdoun (B) – mule

  assif (B) – watercourse, river

  azaghar (B) – plane, plateau (also izwghar)

  azib (B) – seasonal shelter for shepherds

  brhel (A) – mule

  châba (B) – ravine

  iferd (B) – lake

  ifri (B) – cave

  jebel (A) – mountain or hill

  kerkour (B) – cairn

  taddart (B) – house

  talat (B) – dried-up ravine or watercourse

  tamada (B) – lake

  tigm (B) – house

  tizi (B) – mountain pass

  Responsible Trekking

  Morocco is being developed as a walking destination, but many regions are still remote – and susceptible to the cultural and environmental impact of tourism. Many travellers return home warmed and hea
rtened by Berber hospitality, but as visitor numbers increase so too does the pressure on locals. In response, travellers should adopt an appropriate code of behaviour.

  Cross-Cultural Considerations

  Dress

  The way you dress is important, especially among remote mountain people, who remain conservative. In villages, wear buttoned shirts or T-shirts and not sleeveless vests, which villagers use as underwear. Above all, trousers should be worn rather than shorts. This applies equally to men and women.

  The importance of dress in the villages cannot be overemphasised (as many a frustrated and embarrassed trekking tour leader will affirm). However much you might disagree with this conservatism, respecting local traditions will bring great rewards, not least by way of contact, hospitality and assistance.

  Hospitality

  Invitations for tea and offers of food are common in the mountains. By taking a guide, who may have friends in many villages, you'll open yourself up to even more offers of genuine hospitality.

  While these offers are unconditional, it is worth bearing in mind that the mountain economy is one of basic subsistence farming. No one has large supplies, and in outlying villages there may be no surplus food. Offering your hosts some Chinese gunpowder tea and some sugar (preferably in cones) is a very welcome gesture. Dried fruits are also appreciated, as is a taste of any imported food you may have.

  For this reason, it is important to be generous when buying provisions for yourself and guides.

  Medicine

  In remote areas, people along the way will often ask for medicine, from disinfectant and bandages to painkillers or cream for dry skin (which many children have). Always make sure the guide explains what to do with what you offer – how often to take it and so on.

  Environmental Considerations

  Rubbish

  Carry out all your rubbish; never bury it or burn it (Western-style packaging never burns well) or allow your guide to hurl it over a cliff.

  Don’t rely on bought water in plastic bottles, as disposal of these bottles is creating a major problem in Morocco. Instead purify locally sourced water.

  Human Waste Disposal

  It's important to avoid contamination of water sources. Where there is a toilet, use it; where there is none, bury your waste. Dig a small hole 15cm (6in) deep and at least 60m from any watercourse – an important point to remember, given how many trekking routes follow rivers and streams. Consider carrying a lightweight trowel: in the arid Atlas Mountains, digging without one can be difficult. In snow, dig down to the soil; otherwise, your waste will be exposed when the snow melts.

  Use toilet paper sparingly, burn it when possible or bury it with the waste. Cover the waste with soil and a rock.

  Washing

  Don’t use detergents or toothpaste in or near watercourses, even if they are biodegradable. For personal washing use biodegradable soap and wash at least 50m away from any watercourse. Disperse the waste water widely to allow the soil to filter it fully before it makes its way back to the watercourse. Use a scourer, sand or snow to wash cooking utensils rather than detergent. Again, make sure you’re at least 50m from any watercourse.

  Camping

  Vegetation at high altitude is highly sensitive. When camping, minimise your impact on the environment by not removing or disturbing the vegetation around your campsite. Sufficient fodder (barley) for all baggage mules and donkeys should be brought in.

  Low-Impact Cooking

  Don’t depend on open fires for cooking: cutting wood for fires has caused widespread deforestation in Morocco. Ideally, cook on a lightweight multifuel or kerosene stove and avoid those powered by disposable butane gas canisters. If you do make a fire, ensure it is fully extinguished after use.

  Erosion

  Hillsides and mountain slopes, especially at high altitudes, are prone to erosion. Stick to existing tracks and avoid short cuts that bypass a switchback. If you blaze a new trail straight down a slope, it will turn into a watercourse with the next heavy rainfall, eventually causing soil loss and deep scarring.

  Plan Your Trip

  Travel with Children

  Morocco has plenty to capture a child’s imagination. The souqs of Marrakesh and Fez are an endlessly fascinating sensory explosion, and nights around a campfire or camel rides on the beach are equally memorable – but factor in some time by the hotel pool at the end of a hot day.

  Best Regions for Kids

  Marrakesh

  All generations can retire to pool, park, horse-drawn calèche or camel back. The Djemaa el-Fna is Morocco’s carnival capital.

  Atlantic Coast

  The Atlantic Coast offers plenty of beaches and water and wind sports. Agadir’s long, sandy beach is popular; mix it with somewhere more colourful such as Essaouira, with its fun-to-explore ramparts and medina.

  Drâa Valley

  Tour Ouarzazate’s film studios and kasbah, then head down the valley for dunes and dromedary rides.

  Rabat

  With souqs, ruins and gardens, this is a relatively mellow slice of urban Morocco. Attractions include the beach, amusement park and pony rides.

  Middle Atlas

  For mountain scenery, waterfalls, forest walks and less hair-raising passes than the High Atlas. Easily visited from spots such as Azrou and Fez.

  Morocco for Kids

  Morocco is ideal for parents who once travelled to intrepid destinations, and don’t necessarily fancy a Western poolside now they have knee-high travelling companions. Compared with Asia, Morocco is easily accessed from Europe and North America; Marrakesh is less than four hours from London. And when you touch down, you’ll find that children open numerous doors, getting you closer to the heart of this family-oriented country.

  Meeting the Locals

  Moroccans love children so much that you may even want to bring a backpack to carry smaller kids, in case they grow tired of the kissing, hugging, gifts and general adulation. Locals have grown up in large families, so children help break the ice and encourage contact with Moroccans, who are generally very friendly, helpful and protective towards families.

  As you travel the countryside, women may pick up their own child and wave from their doorway. Such moments emphasise your children’s great benefit: having yet to acquire any stereotypes about Africa and the Middle East, their enduring impression of Morocco is likely to be its people’s warmth and friendliness.

  Of course, this certainly doesn’t mean parents receive special treatment from the salesmen in the country’s souqs. However, even the grizzliest shopkeepers generally welcome Western women and children, as it gives their store the image of having a broad, family-friendly appeal. Letting your kids run amok in carpet shops can also be an excellent bargaining technique!

  Adapting to Morocco

  Morocco is a foreign environment and children will probably take a day or so to adapt, but it has plenty of familiar and fun aspects that kids can relate to. In the countryside, simple things like beehives and plants endlessly fascinate children. Dedicated play facilities in parks and public gardens are very rare.

  Taking Your Time

  A key to successful family travel in Morocco is to factor in lots of time to acclimatise at the beginning, and to just relax and muck about at the end. Trying to cram everything in, as you might if you were by yourself, will lead to tired, cranky kids. Distances are deceptive due to factors such as bad roads, and you need to build in contingency plans in case children become ill. However, having to slow your pace to that of your kids – for example, having to stay put in the hottest hours between noon and 4pm – is another way children draw you closer to the Moroccan landscape, people and pace of life.

  Eating Out

  Tajines contain many familiar elements, such as potatoes and carrots. Although you may want to encourage your child to try Moroccan food, you may struggle if they don’t like potatoes or bread; in which case Western foods, such as pasta, pizza and fries, are available. High chairs are not always availab
le in restaurants, although staff are almost universally accommodating with children.

  Be careful about choosing restaurants; steer clear of salads and stick to piping-hot tajines, couscous, omelettes and soups such as harira (lentil soup). Markets sell delicious fruit and veggies, but be sure to wash or peel them. Local fried doughnuts are a sweet sticky treat.

  To avoid stomach upsets, stick to purified or bottled water. Milk is widely available – UHT, pasteurised and powdered – but baked beans are not, and you should bring any special foods you require.

  Children’s Highlights

  Animal Encounters

  AMountain walk, High Atlas Travelling by road to a High Atlas trailhead such as Imlil, then taking a day walk in the mountains with a guide and mule.

  ACamel ride, Essaouira Camel or horse rides along the beaches around Essaouira or in the Sahara, with accessible dunes in the Drâa Valley and Merzouga.

  ACalèche ride, Marrakesh Calèche (horse-drawn carriage) rides around the ramparts of places such as Marrakesh, Meknès and Taroudannt.