Lonely Planet Morocco Page 4
Desert
Hotfoot it to the Sahara to take part in camel treks, moonlight dune hikes and sandboarding, and to watch wildlife – including desert warblers and the bat-eared fennec fox – and sleep in a Berber tent.
Coast
Hit the beach for surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, kayaking and canoeing; and for marine mammals and birdlife such as the endangered bald ibis.
Birdwatching
Morocco is a birdwatcher’s paradise. A startling array of species inhabits the country’s diverse ecosystems and environments, especially the coastal wetlands.
Around 460 species have been recorded in the country, many of them migrants passing through in spring and autumn, when Morocco becomes a way station between sub-Saharan Africa and breeding grounds in Scandinavia, Greenland and northern Russia. Other birds fly to Morocco to avoid the harsh northern European winters. The lagoon at Merja Zerga National Park, near Moulay Bousselham, is the best site in the country for migratory birds.
A pleasant time for birdwatching is March through May, when the weather is comfortable and a wide variety of species is usually present. The winter is also a particularly active time in the wetlands and lagoons.
Guides & Tours
In addition to local birdwatching guides, the following UK-based companies offer Moroccan tours:
Birdfinders (www.birdfinders.co.uk)
Naturetrek (www.naturetrek.co.uk)
Wild Insights (www.wildinsights.co.uk)
Camel Treks
Exploring the Sahara by camel – whether on an overnight excursion or a longer desert safari – is one of Morocco’s signature activities and most rewarding wilderness experiences.
Morocco’s most evocative stretches of Saharan sand are Erg Chebbi, near Merzouga, and Erg Chigaga, near M’Hamid and Zagora, and past the more accessible Tinfou Dunes.
Only consider doing your camel trek in autumn (September and October) or winter (November to early March). Outside these months, the desert experiences gruelling extremes of heat, plus sandstorms in the spring.
Prices start at around Dh300 per person per day, but vary depending on the number of people, the length of the trek and your negotiating skills.
The agency will organise the bivouac (temporary camp), which may be a permanent camp for shorter trips, and may offer Berber music and mechoui (whole roast).
Organising a Camel Trek
Travellers with lots of time can organise a guide and provisions in situ. This benefits the local community and counters the trend towards young guides leaving home to look for work in the more popular tourist centres.
M’Hamid is probably the most hassle-free of the main desert gateways, although the choice is wider at Zagora and Merzouga. Try to get recommendations from other travellers.
It’s quicker and easier, involving less negotiations and waiting, to organise a trip in advance – either through an international tour operator or a company based in Ouarzazate or Marrakesh.
Horse Riding
Southern Morocco is popular for horse riding, from beaches such as Diabat to hills, mountains, valleys, gorges and the desert.
Specialist travel companies offer guided horse-riding tours:
Club Farah (www.clubfarah.com) Based near Mèknes.
Unicorn Trails (www.unicorntrails.com)
Mountain Biking
Ordinary cycling is possible in Morocco, but mountain biking opens up the options considerably.
For the very fit, the vast networks of pistes (dirt tracks) and footpaths in the High Atlas offer the most rewarding biking. The Anti Atlas, the Jebel Saghro plateau and the Drâa Valley also offer excellent trails.
Travel agencies, hotels and shops hire out mountain bikes, for example in Tafraoute, but the quality isn’t really high enough for an extended trip. Adventure-tour companies cater to serious cyclists.
The following operators offer mountain-bike tours in Morocco:
Biking Morocco (www.mountain-bike-morocco.com)
Freeride Morocco (www.freeridemorocco.com)
Saddle Skedaddle (www.skedaddle.co.uk)
Rock Climbing
There is a growing climbing scene in Morocco, with some sublime routes. Anyone contemplating climbing should have plenty of experience and be prepared to bring all their own equipment.
The Anti Atlas and High Atlas offer everything from bouldering to very demanding mountaineering routes that shouldn’t be attempted unless you have a great deal of experience.
The Dadès and Todra Gorges are prime climbing territory.
Des Clark’s guidebook Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas (2011), subtitled ‘walks, climbs and scrambles over 3000m’, is destined to become a classic. It covers some 50 routes and 30 peaks in handy pocket-sized, plastic-covered form, with plenty of maps, photos and practical information. Another excellent guide is Morocco Rock (www.moroccorock.com), which is particularly good on the Anti Atlas. The authors run an active Facebook community.
The Royal Moroccan Ski & Mountaineering Federation (www.frmsm.ma) has lists of climbing routes. A good local climbing tour operator is Climb Morocco (http://climbmorocco.com).
Skiing
Skiing is viable from November to April, although Morocco’s ski stations are somewhat ramshackle. For more information, including local ski clubs, contact the Royal Moroccan Ski & Mountaineering Federation (www.frmsm.ma).
Downhill Skiing
Popular resort Oukaïmeden, about 70km south of Marrakesh, has North Africa’s highest ski lift, and equipment for hire. There are other spots dotted around the Middle Atlas, most notably Mischliffen, near Fez, although some seasons the snow is thin on the ground. There's ad hoc equipment hire, but no ski-lift.
Ski Trekking
Ski randonnée is increasingly popular, especially from late December to February, when the Aït Bougomez Valley has prime routes.
Surfing, Windsurfing & Kitesurfing
With thousands of kilometres of coastline, the Moroccan Atlantic is a fine, if underrated, destination for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Lessons, equipment hire and surf holidays are available.
Northern & Central Morocco
North of Rabat, Mehdiya Plage has strong currents, but reliable year-round breaks. Moving south, Plage des Nations and Temara Plage, both within 20km of Rabat, are also good for surfing. Sidi Bouzid and the beaches around El-Jadida also attract surfers.
Oualidia is known for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. En route to Safi, the Lalla Fatna area has some of Morocco’s best breaks: one of the world’s longest tubular right-handers has drawn some of the biggest names in surfing.
Southern Morocco
Essaouira has been singled out by some surfers, although the ‘Windy City of Africa’ is a better windsurfing and kitesurfing destination year-round. Nearby Sidi Kaouki is an upcoming destination for all three sports.
Near Agadir, the Taghazout area has some of Morocco’s best surfing beaches and numerous businesses catering to surfers.
Other destinations to consider in southern Morocco are Agadir, Aglou Plage, Mirleft and Sidi Ifni.
White-Water Rafting & Kayaking
Although white-water rafting and kayaking are underdeveloped in Morocco, the rivers in the High Atlas near Bin el-Ouidane have stunning scenery. Water By Nature (www.waterbynature.com) is a specialist rafting operator running tours in Morocco.
Plan Your Trip
Trekking in Morocco
Morocco is blessed with some of the world’s most beautiful mountains, and is a year-round trekking destination. In summer, head to Jebel Toubkal (North Africa’s highest peak). In winter, when snow closes the High Atlas, there’s Jebel Saghro to explore, while the Rif Mountains are ideal for the seasons in between.
Trekking Regions
High Atlas
Tackle North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal, and meet the Berbers on the longer Toubkal Circuit.
Escape the crowds and be inspired by the remote M’Goun Massif’s spectacular vall
eys and beautiful villages.
Jebel Saghro
Head southeast to some of Morocco’s most rugged and stunning scenery, perfect for winter walking.
The Rif
Take a gentler path through little-visited cedar forests in the Talassemtane National Park, near Chefchaouen.
Anti Atlas
Visit a few of the Ameln Valley’s 26 villages, en route to an ascent of the ‘amethyst mountain’, Jebel L’Kest.
Enjoy serious trekking and stark beauty among the remote villages and tremendous gorges beneath volcanic Jebel Siroua.
Getting Started
Where to Trek
Toubkal Summit & Circuit
An ascent of Jebel Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak (4167m), is Morocco’s most iconic trek. The two-day hike starts at Imlil near Marrakesh; those wanting more can hire mules to make a Toubkal Circuit trek of up to 10 days.
M'Goun Traverse
Despite the sometime fearsome reputation of the M’Goun Massif, this four-day trek is suitable for most levels of fitness. The landscape is both varied and spectacular, from dry gorges to lush valleys, but be prepared to get your feet wet hopping or wading across shallow rivers.
Rif Mountains
Morocco’s lowest mountain range is ideal for springtime trekking, when the Rif’s oak forests are in their greenest leaf and the slopes carpeted with wildflowers. Trek through the Talassemtane National Park, past Berber villages to arrive at the audacious natural rock formation of God’s Bridge.
Jebel Sarhro
This trek of five to six days threads a path between the High Atlas and the Dadès Valley. The traverse of Jebel Saghro is arid but starkly beautiful, and is a prime winter trek when other mountain trails are closed due to snow.
Anti Atlas
The Anti Atlas is where Morocco's ripple of mountains finally peter out into the Sahara. In these much-overlooked mountains hardcore trekkers can take a week to tackle the volcanic peak of Jebel Siroua, or hike for five days through the villages of the Ameln Valley to Jebel L'Kest.
Maps
Morocco is covered by a 1:100,000 and also a 1:50,000 topographical map series.
Some of the 1:50,000 series are unavailable to the public; travellers exploring wide areas are advised to stick to the 1:100,000 series.
Although marked in Cyrillic script, 1:100,000 maps of Morocco made by the Soviet military are as topographically accurate as any available.
The best place in Morocco to buy maps is Direction de la Cartographie (%0660 10 26 83; www.ancfcc.gov.ma; cnr Aves My Youssef & My Hassan I) in Rabat, which lists the maps it sells online.
Maps and photocopies are also available at other bookshops around Morocco, as well as at stalls around the Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh and, as a last resort, on the approaches to the Atlas trekking routes.
Websites, including Amazon (www.amazon.com), sell maps such as West Col Productions maps of the Toubkal and M’Goun Massifs.
INTERNATIONAL SPECIALIST TRAVEL MAP & BOOKSHOPS
Australia
Melbourne Map Centre http://www.melbmap.com.au Australia’s largest map shop stocks half-a-dozen Morocco maps.
France
Au Vieux Campeur (www.au-vieux-campeur.fr) French stockist of specialist travel maps.
UK
Stanford's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7836 1321; www.stanfords.co.uk; 12-14 Long Acre, WC2; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tLeicester Sq, Covent Garden) Sells maps including Editorial Piolet’s 1:40,000 map of the Jebel Toubkal area; and West Col’s series of 1:160,000 maps of the Atlas, based on the Soviet military survey maps.
USA
Omnimap (www.omnimap.com) Sells an excellent range of maps, including the West Col and Soviet military survey maps, some available digitally.
Books
Trailblazer's Moroccan Atlas – the Trekking Guide, by Alan Palmer, is an indispensable guide for serious trekkers to the High Atlas, Jebel Sahro and M'goun Massif.
The Mountains Look on Marrakech is Hamish Brown’s atmospheric account of a 96-day trek across the mountains.
If you can find it in Morocco, the old booklet Morocco: Mountain and Desert Tourism (2005), published by Office National Marocain du Tourisme (ONMT), is still a good introduction to trekking in Morocco, though some contact details in its listings sections are now out of date. You should be able to pick it up in ONMT offices overseas and in Marrakesh and other major cities, or at Imlil’s bureau des guides.
TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS
AGreat Atlas Traverse by Michael Peyron. The two-volume work by the Morocco-based British writer is the definitive text for the great traverse. Less useful for the casual trekker.
AThe Atlas Mountains: A Walking and Trekking Guide by Karl Smith. Published by the walking specialist Cicerone, this has route descriptions and information on subjects such as ski-touring, although it gets mixed reviews.
AMountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas by Des Clark. Also published by Cicerone, this guide – subtitled ‘walks, climbs and scrambles over 3000m’ – is destined to become a classic. It covers some 50 routes and 30 peaks in handy pocket-sized, plastic-covered form, with plenty of maps, photos and practical information.
ATrekking in the Moroccan Atlas by Richard Knight. Has 43 maps and information ranging from green hiking tips to language advice, although it also has both fans and detractors. Likely to be the most useful book for inexperienced trekkers, but also the bulkiest.
Clothing & Equipment
All year round you will need to pack strong, well-broken-in walking boots. You will also need a waterproof and windproof outer layer. It’s amazing how quickly the weather can change, so you'll also need a sunhat, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen.
In summer (June to August) light, baggy cotton trousers and long-sleeved shirts are musts, and because nights can still get cold even at lowish altitudes, you should also bring a fleece or jumper.
When trekking during winter (November to March) always pack warm clothing, including a woollen hat and gloves for High Atlas trekking. You should be prepared for very cold weather wherever you trek in the country.
Sleeping Bags
Whether you are camping or staying in houses, a four-season sleeping bag is essential for the High Atlas and Jebel Saghro from September to early April, when temperatures as low as –10°C are not unknown.
In lower ranges, even in high summer, a bag comfortable at 0°C is recommended. A thick sleeping mat or thin foam mattress is a good idea since the ground is extremely rocky. Guides can usually supply these.
Stoves
Many gîtes (hostels) have cooking facilities, but you may want to bring a stove if you are camping. Multifuel stoves that burn anything from aviation fuel to diesel are ideal.
Methylated spirits is hard to get hold of, but kerosene is available. Pierce-type butane gas canisters are also available, but not recommended for environmental reasons.
Your guide will be able to offer advice.
Tents
The key decision, when planning a route, is whether or not to sleep in a tent. A good tent opens up endless trekking possibilities and will get you away from the crowds.
You can hire tents from tour operators and guides, and at trailheads.
If you would rather not carry a tent, in most regions you can stay in the villages.
Other Equipment
Bring a basic medical kit as well as water-purification tablets or iodine drops or a mechanical purifier. All water should be treated unless you take it directly from the source.
To go above 3000m between November and May, as well as having experience in winter mountaineering, you will need essentials including crampons, ice axes and snow shovels. Again, this equipment is available for hire.
If you are combining trekking with visits to urban areas, consider storing extra luggage before your trek rather than lugging around unwanted gear. Most hotels will let you leave luggage, sometimes for a small fee. Train stations in larger cities have secure left-luggage facilit
ies.
Guides
However much trekking and map-reading experience you have, we strongly recommend that you hire a qualified guide – if for no other reason than to be your translator (how is your Tashelhit?), chaperone faux guides (unofficial guides) – they won’t come near you if you are with a guide, deal-getter and vocal guidebook.
A good guide will also enhance your cultural experience. They will know local people, which will undoubtedly result in invitations for tea and food, and richer experiences of Berber life.
If something goes wrong, a local guide will be the quickest route to getting help. Every year foreigners die in the Moroccan mountains. Whatever the cause – a freak storm, an unlucky slip, a rock slide – the presence of a guide would invariably have increased their chances of survival. So however confident you feel, we recommend that you never walk into the mountains unguided.