Lonely Planet China Read online

  Potala Palace | HFZIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Top Experiences

  Cycling Hǎinán

  The same blue skies and balmy weather that make China’s only tropical island ideal for a do-nothing holiday, make it superb for exploring on a bicycle. Hit the east for picturesque rice-growing valleys, spectacular bays and China's finest beaches. And don’t miss the sparsely populated central highlands, a densely forested region that’s home to the island’s original settlers, the Li and the Miao. Here, even the road more frequently taken is still not taken by many at all.

  Sānyà, Hǎinán | SHAN.SHIHAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Need to Know

  Currency

  yuán (元; ¥)

  Language

  Mandarin, Cantonese

  Visas

  Needed for all visits to China except Hong Kong, Macau and 72-hour-and-under trips to Shànghǎi, Běijīng, Chángshā, Chéngdū, Chóngqìng, Dàlián, Guǎngzhōu, Guìlín, Harbin, Kūnmíng, Qīngdǎo, Shěnyáng, Tiānjīn, Wǔhàn, Xiàmén and Xī’ān.

  Money

  ATMs in big cities and towns. Credit cards less widely used; always carry cash.

  Mobile Phones

  A mobile phone should be the first choice for calls, but ensure your mobile is unlocked for use in China if taking your own. SIM cards can be bought at the arrivals area at major airports.

  Time

  GMT/UTC plus eight hours

  When to Go

  High Season (May–Aug)

  APrepare for summer downpours and crowds at traveller hot spots.

  AAccommodation prices peak during the first week of the May holiday period.

  Shoulder (Feb–Apr, Sep & Oct)

  AExpect warmer days in spring, cooler days in autumn.

  AIn the north this is the optimal season, with fresh weather and clear skies.

  AAccommodation prices peak during holidays in early October.

  Low Season (Nov–Feb)

  ADomestic tourism is at a low ebb, but things are busy and expensive for Chinese New Year.

  AWeather is bitterly cold in the north and at altitude, and only warm in the far south.

  Useful Websites

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/china) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Ctrip (www.english.ctrip.com) Hotel booking, air and train ticketing.

  Chinasmack (www.chinasmack.com) Human-interest stories and videos.

  Popupchinese (www.popupchinese.com) Excellent podcasts (great for learning Chinese).

  Far West China (www.farwestchina.com) Indispensable resource for Silk Roaders.

  Important Numbers

  Ambulance 120

  Fire 119

  Police 110

  Country code (China/Hong Kong/Macau) 86/852/853

  International access code 00

  Directory assistance 114

  Exchange Rates

  Australia A$1 ¥4.90

  Canada C$1 ¥5.10

  Euro zone €1 ¥7.40

  Hong Kong HK$1 ¥0.80

  Japan ¥100 ¥6.30

  New Zealand NZ$1 ¥4.70

  UK UK£1 ¥9.70

  US US$1 ¥6.60

  For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

  Daily Costs

  Budget: Less than ¥200

  ADorm bed: ¥40–60

  AFood markets, street food: ¥40

  ABike hire or other transport: ¥20

  AFree museums

  Midrange: ¥200–1000

  ADouble room in a midrange hotel: ¥200–600

  ALunch and dinner in local restaurants: ¥80–100

  ADrinks in a bar: ¥60

  ATaxis: ¥60

  Top end: More than ¥1000

  ADouble room in a top-end hotel: ¥600 and up

  ALunch and dinner in excellent local or hotel restaurants: ¥300

  AShopping at top-end shops: ¥300

  ATwo tickets to Chinese opera: ¥300

  Opening Hours

  China officially has a five-day working week; Saturday and Sunday are public holidays.

  Banks Open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm (or 6pm); may close for two hours in the afternoon. Many also open Saturday and maybe Sunday. Same for offices and government departments.

  Post offices Generally open daily.

  Restaurants Open from around 10.30am to 11pm; some shut at around 2pm and reopen at 5pm or 6pm.

  Bars Open in the late afternoon, shutting around midnight or later.

  Shops Open daily 10am to 10pm. Same for department stores and shopping malls.

  Arriving in China

  Běijīng Capital Airport (北京首都国际机场; Běijīng Shǒudū Guójì Jīchǎng, PEK %010 6454 1100; www.en.bcia.com.cn) Airport Express train services run every 10 minutes. The airport bus runs to central Běijīng every 10 to 20 minutes. A taxi will cost ¥90 to ¥120.

  Shànghǎi Pǔdōng International Airport Maglev trains run every 20 minutes. Metro Line 2 links the airport with Hóngqiáo Airport. Airport buses run every 15 to 30 minutes. A taxi to central Shànghǎi will cost ¥160.

  Hong Kong International Airport Airport Express trains run every 10 minutes. A taxi to Central will cost about HK$300.

  Getting Around

  Despite being a land of vast distances, it’s quite straightforward to navigate your way terrestrially around China by rail and bus if you have time. Transport in China needs considerable pre-planning due to the distances involved and periodic shortages of tickets.

  Air Affordable and excellent for long distances, but delays are common.

  Train Very reasonably priced – apart from high-speed rail, which is more expensive – and very efficient.

  Bus Cheaper and slower than trains but crucial for remote destinations.

  Car China is too large and there are too many restrictions to make this a viable option.

  First Time China

  Checklist

  ACheck the validity of your passport

  AMake any necessary bookings (for accommodation and travel)

  ASecure your visa and additional permits well in advance

  ACheck what clothing you will need

  ACheck the airline baggage restrictions

  AOrganise travel insurance

  ACheck if you can use your mobile/cell phone

  AWork out your itinerary

  AInform your credit/debit-card company

  What to Pack

  APassport

  ACredit card

  APhrasebook

  AMoney belt

  ATravel plug

  AMedical kit

  AInsect repellent

  AMobile-phone charger

  ASunscreen

  ASunhat and shades

  AWaterproof clothing

  ATorch

  APocketknife

  AEarplugs

  Top Tips for Your Trip

  ABe patient and understand that many things you may take for granted – orderly queues, international levels of English ability, personal space – may not exist.

  AAlthough they are not that user friendly, choosing to take local buses instead of taxis could mean you're the only foreigner on board and a local could well strike up a conversation with you.

  ASightseeing on foot is also an excellent way to get under the skin of Chinese cities and towns.

  ATreat China as an adventure and learning curve, rather than purely as a holiday.

  ADining in local street markets is a great way to eat out of your comfort zone and discover the full, flavoursome variety of Chinese cooking.

  What to Wear

  You can pretty much wear casual clothes throughout your entire journey in China, unless dining in a smart restaurant in Shànghǎi, Běijīng or Hong Kong, when you may need to dress less casually. In general, trousers (pants) and shirts or tees for guys, and dresses, skirts or trousers for women will serve you well nationwide; shorts and short sleeves are generally fine in summer, but don long trousers and long sleeves in the evenin
gs to keep mosquitoes at bay. A sunhat can be invaluable. A thin waterproof coat and sturdy shoes are a good idea for all-weather hiking and sightseeing. Winter is a different ball game up north and especially at altitude: you’ll need several layers, thick shirts, jerseys and warm coats, jackets, gloves, socks and a hat.

  Sleeping

  China’s accommodation choices are enormously varied, even though most hotels still do not accept foreigners. Top-tier cities have a rich variety of sleeping options; other towns can have a poor supply, despite being inundated with visitors. Rural destinations are largely a patchwork of homesteads and hostels, with the occasional boutique-style choice in big-ticket villages.

  AHotels From two-star affairs with very limited English and simple rooms to international-level, five-star towers and heritage hotels.

  AHostels Exist across China in growing numbers, usually offering dorm beds and double rooms and dispensing useful travel advice.

  AHomestays In rural locations, you can often find double rooms in converted houses, with meals provided.

  Money

  ACredit cards Credit and debit cards are increasingly accepted in tourist towns and big cities, particularly Visa and MasterCard. Ask if bars and restaurants take cards before ordering.

  AATMs There are 24-hour ATMs available at Bank of China and ICBC branches.

  AChanging money You can change money at hotels, large branches of Bank of China, some department stores and international airports. Some towns don’t have any money-changing facilities, so make sure you carry enough cash.

  Bargaining

  Haggling is standard procedure in markets and shops (outside of department stores and malls) where prices are not clearly marked. There's no harm in coming in really low, but remain polite at all times. In touristy markets in Shànghǎi and Běijīng, vendors can drop as low as 25% of the original price.

  Tipping

  Tipping is never done at cheap restaurants in mainland China. Smart, international restaurants will encourage tipping, but it is not obligatory and it’s uncertain whether wait staff receive their tips at the end of the night.

  Hotel restaurants automatically add a 15% service charge; some high-end restaurants may do the same.

  Etiquette

  China is a pretty relaxed country regarding etiquette, but be aware of a few things:

  AGreetings and goodbyes Shake hands, but never kiss someone’s cheek. Say ‘Nihǎo’ for hello and ‘Zàijiàn’ (or increasingly just 'Bye bye') for goodbye

  AAsking for help To ask for directions start with ‘Qǐng wèn….’ (‘Can I ask…’); say ‘Duìbuqǐ’ ('Sorry') to apologise.

  AReligion Dress sensitively when visiting Buddhist (especially in Tibet) and Taoist temples, churches and mosques.

  AEating and drinking Help fill your neighbour’s plate at the dinner table; toast the host and others at the table; at the start of dinner, wait till toasting starts before drinking from your glass; offer your cigarettes around if you smoke; always offer to buy drinks in a bar but never fight over the drink/food tab if someone else wants to pay (but do offer at least once).

  AGestures Don’t use too many hand movements or excessive body language.

  Booking Ahead

  Reserving a room, even if only for the first night of your stay, is the best way to ensure a smooth start to your trip. These phrases should see you through a call if English isn’t spoken.

  Hello 你好 Nǐhǎo

  I would like to book a room 我想订房间 Wǒ xiǎng dìng fángjiān

  a single room 单人间 dānrén jiān

  a double room 双人间 shuāngrén jiān

  My name is… 我叫… Wǒ jiào…

  from… to… (date) 从…到… cóng… dào…

  How much is it per night/person? 每天/个人多少钱？ Měi tiān/gè rén duōshǎo qián?

  Thank you 谢谢你 Xièxie nǐ

  Language

  It is entirely possible to travel around China hardly hearing any English at all. Tourist-industry employees across the land are more likely to speak English; in the big cities such as Shànghǎi, Běijīng and, of course, Hong Kong, English is more widely spoken and understood, but generally only among educated Chinese. In smaller towns and the countryside, English is often of little or no use: the vast majority of Chinese do not speak the language at all.

  If You Like…

  Imperial Architecture

  Crumbling dynasties have deposited an imposing trail of antiquity across north China, from vast imperial palaces to the noble ruins of the Great Wall and altars reserved for the emperor.

  Forbidden City China’s standout imperial residence in Běijīng, home to two dynasties of emperors and their concubines.

  Summer Palace An epic display of traditional Chinese aesthetics with crucial ingredients: hills, lakes, bridges, pavilions, temples and tantalising sunsets.

  Imperial Palace Manchu splendour in Shěnyáng within the former Manchurian heartland of Liáoníng province.

  Xī’ān Shaanxi home of the Terracotta Warriors, an imposing Ming city wall and traces of the city’s astonishing Tang apogee.

  Chéngdé Summer bolt-hole of the Qing emperors, with palatial remains and a riveting brood of Tibetan-style temples.

  Summer Palace, Běijīng | HUNG CHUNG CHIH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  The Great Wall

  The Wall most famously belongs to Běijīng, but fragments leave a ragged band across much of north China, trailing from the North Korean border to the wind-scoured deserts of China’s wild northwest.

  Jiànkòu Běijīng’s prime chunk of ruin, a sublime portrait of disintegrating brickwork, overgrown with saplings and immersed in a magnificent mountain panorama.

  Gǔběikǒu Trekking options galore at this Great Wall crossroads accessible from Běijīng.

  Zhuàngdàokǒu Little-visited length of wall near Běijīng packing supreme views and hiking opportunities.

  Huánghuā Chéng Excellent hiking opportunities along some of the most authentic sections of wall to be found around Běijīng.

  Jiāyùguān Fort Confront weathered slogans from Mao’s Cultural Revolution lashed by the Gānsù desert winds.

  Bā Táizi Sublime Gothic church tower ruin alongside a similarly dilapidated length of the Great Wall, outside Dàtóng.

  Extremes

  China has more than enough extremes to satisfy thrill-seekers, or just the plain inquisitive. From the world's highest mountain to its fastest trains and the world's furthest city from the sea, take your pick from China's extremes.

  Běihóngcūn China's northernmost village in Hēilóngjiāng, where winter temperatures are glacial.

  Turpan China's hottest spot and the world's second-lowest depression, where the thermometer has topped 48°C.

  Shànghǎi Maglev The world's fastest commercially operating Maglev system train has a top operational speed of 431 km/h (268 mph).

  Everest Base Camp Rise early for dramatic images of the world's highest mountain in the morning sun.

  Ürümqi Journey along the Silk Road and stop by the world's most remote city from the sea.

  Ancient Settlements

  Traditional China can be glimpsed in its picturesque, ancient villages and towns. Ming and Qing dynasty architecture, narrow lanes and superlative feng shui combine in a pastoral aesthetic complemented by a relaxed rural tempo.

  Píngyáo China’s best-looking, best-preserved walled town – by a long shot – warrants thorough exploration.

  Fènghuáng Make sure you overnight in this fantastic historic town on the Tuó River for its beautiful evening lights.

  Wùyuán Take time off to village-hop in the gorgeous Jiāngxī countryside and dream of abandoning urban China for good.

  Fújiàn Tǔlóu Explore the fortress-like earthen ‘roundhouses’ of Fújiàn, distinctive for their imposing enormity.

  Xīnyè This effortlessly charming village is designed with an eye for traditional Chinese harmony and balance.

  Urban Extravaganzasr />
  Among China’s most dynamic cities is Shànghǎi, where glittering skyscrapers overlook Maglev trains, and cashed-up consumers shop in chic malls, drink at elegant cocktail bars and dine at fashionable restaurants.

  Shànghǎi The city that everyone – architects, fashionistas, cocktail connoisseurs, foodies, urban travellers, interior designers – is talking about.

  Hong Kong Poised between China and the West, the ex-British colony continues to plough its own distinctive furrow.

  Běijīng China's leading city: a riveting blend of ancient capital and modern metropolis.

  Hángzhōu One of China’s most attractive cities with the sublime and romantic West Lake at its heart.

  Boat Trips

  China is cut by some dramatic and breathtaking rivers, including the mighty Yangzi. Hop on a riverboat and ease into a totally different experience of China’s landscapes.