Lonely Planet Portugal Read online

  ATaxis Not expected, but it's polite to round up to the nearest euro.

  AHotels One euro per bag is standard; gratuity for cleaning staff is at your discretion.

  Etiquette

  AGreetings When greeting females or mixed company, an air kiss on both cheeks is common courtesy. Men give each other a handshake.

  AVisiting churches It is considered disrespectful to visit churches as a tourist during Mass. Taking photos at such a time is definitely inappropriate.

  A'Free' appetisers Whatever you eat, you must pay for, whether or not you ordered it. It's common practice for restaurants to bring bread, olives, cheese and other goodies to the table, but these are never free and will be added to your bill at the end. If you don't want them, a polite 'No, thank you' will see them returned to the kitchen.

  Language

  English is spoken in larger cities and in popular tourist areas (especially the Algarve), but is less common in rural areas and among older Portuguese. Many restaurants have English-language menus, though smaller family-run places typically do not (but may have English-speaking staff on hand to help out). Smaller museums are likely to have signs in Portuguese only. The Portuguese always appreciate the effort: a few key words, such as 'bom dia', 'boa tarde', 'obrigado/obrigada' and 'por favor', can go a long way.

  If You Like…

  Food

  Renowned for its seafood, hearty country cooking and many regional specialities, Portugal offers plenty of temptation for the food-minded traveller. Celebrated new chefs have brought attention to a host of dining rooms, while those who enjoy the simple things – olives, cheeses, roast meats, fish sizzling on the grill, freshly baked bread – will enjoy memorable meals in traditional restaurants all across the country.

  Belcanto Serving up some of Lisbon's best dishes in the foodie-loving neighbourhood of Chiado.

  Food festivals The Algarve elevates its seafood and regional delicacies to high art in these food-minded celebrations.

  Vila Joya Overlooking the beach, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant is one of Portugal’s finest.

  Cataplana This decadent seafood stew is a south-coast speciality; it’s available across the Algarve and almost always feeds two.

  DOC Serves delectable haute cuisine in a beautiful setting on the Douro.

  Wine & Port

  Home to some of the oldest vineyards on earth, Portugal has some fantastic (and deliciously affordable) wines. Each region has its enticements, from full-bodied Alentejan reds to Minho’s refreshing vinho verde (young wine), along with the famous ports from the Douro. Stylish wine bars and bucolic vineyards provide memorable settings in which to taste Portugal’s great fruits of the vine.

  BA Wine Bar do Bairro Alto Sample the country’s finest quaffs at this atmospheric spot in Lisbon.

  Herdade do Esporão An acclaimed winery outside Reguengos de Monsaraz, with vineyards dating back hundreds of years.

  Casa de Mateus At this shop inside a palace, drink in the grandeur while sipping distinctive and rare Alvarelhão.

  Solar do Vinho do Porto With views over the Douro, this elegant garden bar serves an astounding variety of ports.

  Douro Vineyards Breathtaking views from 18th-century manors and velvety rich wines make the Douro a requisite stop for wine lovers.

  Graham's Port wine lodges are two a penny in Gaia, but Graham’s stands out with its stellar cellar tours, tastings and big views.

  Douro vineyards | Danita Delimont / Getty Images ©

  Beaches

  With 830km of coastline, Portugal has sun-kissed shores of every type, from festive, people-packed coves to remote, windswept shores that invite endless wandering.

  Ilha de Tavira This sandy island off the southern coast is a remarkable getaway.

  São Jacinto To escape the crowds, head to this wild beach backed by dunes west of Aveiro.

  Vila Nova de Milfontes Star of the Alentejo coastline is this lovely and vibrant village overlooking several pretty beaches.

  Costa da Caparica Just across the Tejo from Lisbon is 8km of pretty coastline with stylish beach bars sprinkled along it.

  Lagos This popular Algarve resort town offers a mix of lively surfing beaches and secluded sandstone-backed shorelines further out of town.

  Architecture

  Taking in Portugal’s wildly varied architecture involves delving into the past as you gaze upon medieval monasteries, imposing hilltop castles and ancient ruins.

  Fortaleza de Sagres Contemplate Portugal’s seafaring past from this clifftop perch over the Atlantic.

  Casa da Música Rem Koolhaas’ stunning music hall, completed in 2005, is an architectural gem.

  Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Dom Manuel I’s fantastical tribute to the great explorers of the 15th century.

  Convento de Cristo Former headquarters of the Knights Templar, this Unesco World Heritage Site is stunning to behold.

  Conímbriga The best-preserved Roman ruins on the Iberian Peninsula provide a window into the rise and fall of the once great empire.

  Palácio Nacional de Mafra The construction of this exuberant palace with its 1200 rooms nearly bankrupted the nation.

  Convento de Cristo | Kim Walker / Robertharding / Getty Images ©

  Music

  The national music of Portugal is undoubtedly fado, that stirring, melancholic sound that’s so prevalent in Lisbon (its birthplace) and Coimbra. Other genres also have their followers, and you can catch live rock, jazz and a wide range of world sounds.

  Alfama The birthplace of fado has many authentic places in which to hear it live – as well as tourist traps to avoid.

  Á Capella Coimbra also has a fado-loving heart; this converted 14th-century chapel is the best place to hear it live.

  Festival do Sudoeste One of Portugal’s biggest music fests erupts each August in the seaside town of Zambujeira do Mar.

  Casa da Música Rem Koolhaas' concert hall is both an architectural masterpiece and a vibrant set piece for year-round music events.

  Musicbox This long-standing Lisbon space hosts an eclectic line-up of rock, folk, funk and more.

  Art

  In the Portuguese art world, quality trumps quantity. You may not find massive art institutions here, but you will find galleries showcasing unique works from the past and present – including home-grown Portuguese legends.

  Museu Calouste Gulbenkian One of Lisbon’s finest museums houses an epic collection of magnificent artwork from East and West.

  Museu Colecção Berardo In Belém, this free museum hosts some of Portugal’s most daring exhibits.

  Casa das Histórias Paula Rego Cascais’ best exhibition space celebrates the artwork of Paula Rego, one of Portugal’s finest living painters.

  Casa de Serralves Porto’s art lovers never miss the cutting-edge exhibits inside this art-deco mansion in the park.

  Museu da Tapeçaria de Portalegre Guy Fino Be dazzled by colour at this fine tapestry museum in the Alentejo.

  Museu de Lamego This museum houses a superb collection of works by 16th-century luminary Grão Vasco.

  Nightlife

  When the sun goes down, things start to get interesting. Whether you want to party like a rock star or sip cocktails with a more laid-back, bohemian crowd, you’ll find these and dozens of other scenes in Portugal.

  Lagos Packed with music-filled bars and lounges, Lagos is the nightlife centre of the Algarve.

  Forte São João Baptista In a striking 17th-century fort, this hotel, restaurant and nightclub throws some of the best summer parties in the north.

  Cais do Sodré Lisbon’s newish nightlife epicentre has colourful bars, tapas joints and DJ-spinning clubs that stay open till the early morning.

  Porto Nightlife has exploded in recent years, with revellers packing the bar- and gallery-lined streets near Rua das Carmelitas.

  Historic Villages

  Portugal is home to many enchanting villages, where a stroll along peaceful cobblestone lanes is like a trip back in time.
br />   Óbidos Medieval architecture, lively festivals and charming guest houses await in this fortified town an hour north of Lisbon.

  Mértola Set high above the Rio Guadiana, this remarkably well-preserved Alentejo town is considered an open-air museum.

  Monsanto A forlorn village surrounding an age-old, boulder-strewn castle, Monsanto has great walking trails through the rolling countryside nearby.

  Miranda do Douro This remote fortress town on the edge of Spain has an imposing 16th-century castle and street signs in the ancient language of Mirandês.

  Castelo de Vide Wander the medieval Jewish quarter and take in sweeping views over the surrounding cork and olive groves.

  Month by Month

  Top Events

  Semana Santa, April

  Serralves em Festa, May

  Festa de Santo António, June

  Festa de São João, June

  Romaria de Nossa Senhora d'Agonia, August

  February

  Winter sees fewer crowds and lower prices along with abundant rainfall, particularly in the north. Coastal temperatures are cool but mild, while inland there are frigid days. Many resorts remain shuttered until spring.

  zCarnaval

  Portugal’s Carnaval features much merrymaking in the pre-Lenten celebrations. Loulé boasts the best parades, but Lisbon, Nazaré and Viana do Castelo all throw a respectable bash.

  3Fantasporto

  Porto's world-renowned two-week international festival (www.fantasporto.com) celebrates fantasy, horror and just plain weird films.

  6Essência do Vinho

  Oenophiles are in their element at this wine gathering (www.essenciadovinhoporto.com), held in late February in the sublime setting of Palácio da Bolsa. Some 3000 wines from 350 producers are available for tasting.

  March

  March days are rainy and chilly in much of Portugal, though the south sees more sunshine. Prices remain low, and travellers are few and far between.

  5Festival Internacional do Chocolate

  For several days early in the month Óbidos celebrates the sweet temptation of the cacao bean (www.festivalchocolate.cm-obidos.pt).

  April

  Spring arrives, bringing warmer temperatures and abundant sunshine in both the north and the south. Late April sees a profusion of wild flowers in the south.

  zSemana Santa

  The build-up to Easter is magnificent in the Minho’s saintly Braga. During Holy Week, barefoot penitents process through the streets, past rows of makeshift altars, with an explosion of jubilation at the cathedral on the eve of Easter.

  zOvibeja

  This huge five-day agricultural fair in Beja features concerts every night, with handicrafts booths and abundant food stalls.

  May

  Lovely sunny weather and the lack of peak-season crowds make May an ideal time to visit. The beaches of the Algarve awake from their slumber and see a smattering of travellers passing through.

  7Feira das Cantarinhas

  This huge three-day street fair of traditional handicrafts takes place in Bragança.

  zQueima das Fitas

  Join the mayhem of the Burning of the Ribbons at the University of Coimbra (Portugal’s Oxford), as students celebrate the end of the academic year with concerts, a parade and copious amounts of drinking (www.queimadasfitas.org).

  zFesta das Cruzes

  Barcelos turns into a fairground of flags, flowers, coloured lights and open-air concerts at the Festival of the Crosses. The biggest days are 1 to 3 May. Monsanto, in the Beiras, also celebrates, with singing and dancing beside a medieval castle.

  zFesta do Mar

  Celebrating the age-old love of the sea (and the patron saints of fishers), this lively festival brings a flotilla of fishing boats to Nazaré’s harbour, as well as a colourful parade of elaborately decorated floats. There’s plenty of eating and drinking.

  zFátima Romaris

  Hundreds of thousands make the pilgrimage to Fátima each year to commemorate the apparitions of the Virgin that occurred on 13 May 1917. The pilgrimage also happens on 12 and 13 October.

  zSerralves em Festa

  This huge cultural event (www.serralvesemfesta.com) runs for 40 hours non-stop over one weekend in late May. Parque de Serralves hosts the main events, with concerts, avant-garde theatre and kids' activities. Other open-air events happen all over town.

  June

  Early summer is one of the liveliest times to visit, as the festival calendar is packed. Warm, sunny days are the norm, and while tourism picks up, the hordes have yet to arrive.

  3Fado no Castelo

  Lisbon’s love affair with fado reaches a high point at this annual songfest held at the cinematic Castelo de São Jorge over three evenings in June.

  zFesta do Corpo de Deus

  This religious fest happens all across northern Portugal on Corpus Christi but is liveliest in Monção, with an old-fashioned medieval fair, theatrical shows and over-the-top processions.

  3Festival Med

  Loulé’s world-music festival (www.festivalmed.pt), held over three days, brings more than 50 bands playing an incredible variety of music. World cuisine accompanies the global beats.

  zVaca das Cordas & Corpus Christi

  Ponte de Lima gets rowdy during this unusual event, which features a bull on a rope let loose on the streets. A more solemn event follows, with religious processions along flower-strewn streets.

  zFestas de Junho

  Amarante goes wild for its favourite saint and patron of lovers, São Gonçalo. All-night music, fireworks, markets and processions mark the occasion.

  zFesta de Santo António

  The lively Festival of St Anthony is celebrated with fervour in Lisbon’s Alfama and Madragoa districts, with feasting, drinking and dancing in some 50 arraiais (street parties).

  zFesta de São João

  St John is the favourite up north, where Porto, Braga and Vila do Conde celebrate with elaborate processions, music and feasting, while folks go around whacking each other with plastic hammers.

  zFeira Nacional da Agricultura

  One of Portugal’s biggest country fairs, this family-fun event (www.cnema.pt) turns Santarém into an oversized playground for horse racing, bullfights, live music, feasting and dancing; there’s loads of entertainment for kids.

  zFestas Populares

  Celebrating the feast days of São João and São Pedro, Évora hosts a lively 12-day event that kicks off in late June. There’s a traditional fairground, art exhibitions, gourmet food and drink, cultural events and sporting competitions.

  July

  The summer heat arrives, bringing sunseekers who pack the resorts of the Algarve. Lisbon and Porto also swell with crowds and prices peak in July and August.

  3Festival Internacional de Folclore

  The week-long International Folk Festival in late July brings costumed dancers and traditional groups to Porto.

  zMercado Medieval

  Don your armour and head to the castle grounds for this lively two-week medieval fair (www.mercadomedievalobidos.pt) in Óbidos. Attractions include wandering minstrels, jousting matches and plenty of grog. Other medieval fairs are held in Silves and other castle towns.

  3Marés Vivas

  Over a weekend in mid-July, Afurada dusts off its party clothes to host the Marés Vivas (http://maresvivas.meo.pt), which welcomes big rock and pop names to the stage. Headliners in recent years have included the Prodigy, Lenny Kravitz, Skrillex and fadista Ana Moura.

  August

  The mercury shoots up in August, with sweltering days best spent at the beach. This is Portugal’s busiest tourist month, and reserving ahead is essential.

  zFestas de Cidade e Gualterianas

  The old city of Guimarães brings revellers from across the region to its colourful processions, with allegorical floats, folk dancing, fireworks and bands (www.aoficina.pt).

  3Festival do Sudoeste

  The Alentejan Glastonbury, in Zambujeira do Mar, at
tracts a young, surfy crowd with huge parties and big-name bands headlining (www.meosudoeste.pt).

  5Festival do Marisco

  Seafood-lovers should not miss this grand culinary fest (www.festivaldomarisco.com) in Olhão. Highlights include regional specialities like chargrilled fish, caldeirada (fish stew) and cataplana (a kind of Portuguese paella); there’s also live music.

  zRomaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia

  The Minho’s most spectacular festival (www.festas-agonia.com), in Viana do Castelo, has elaborate street paintings, folk costume parades, drumming, giant puppets and much merrymaking.