Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 26

  This hostel is simple but hits the spot with decent air-con, a choice of dorm room or private accommodation, and a bird's-eye view from the roof terrace. Minimum two nights' stay.

  GingerflowerBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-288 1331; www.gingerflowerboutiquehotel.com; 13 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; d from RM210; aW)

  Rooms are small, but period fittings and immaculate housekeeping make this restored Peranakan townhouse a very pleasant place to stay. It's a few paces from the Jonker St hubbub and well placed for gallery and museum visits along Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock.

  Heeren HouseGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 4241; www.heerenhouse.com; 1 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; s/d/q incl breakfast from RM139/159/269; aW)

  The traditional furnishings of this prime-location hotel have a nostalgic air, while the family-run vibe and hearty breakfasts infuse the place with a homely feel. The six airy and clean rooms in this former warehouse largely overlook the river. Not all rooms pick up the wi-fi signal from the lobby.

  The hotel also has a good cafe.

  Courtyard@HeerenBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 0088; www.courtyardatheeren.com; 91 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; d or tw/ste incl breakfast from RM200/300; aW)

  Each room here is decorated with an individual touch, with light and bright decor paired with antique wood furniture. Some rooms have minimalist stained-glass details, modern takes on Chinese latticework or luxuriant drapes, but not all have windows. It's professionally run with great service.

  Hangout@JonkerHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 8318; www.hangouthotels.com; 19-21 Jln Hang Jebat; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from RM90/120/150/180; aiW)

  While its sparse contemporary decor is at odds with the glitzy Peranakan mansions elsewhere in Chinatown, rooms here are surgically clean. There's also a roof terrace from which to ogle Chinatown's skyline.

  Hotel PuriHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 5588; www.hotelpuri.com; 118 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; d/tr/q/ste incl breakfast from RM188/310/380/408; aiW)

  One of Chinatown's gems, Hotel Puri is an elegant creation in a superbly renovated Peranakan mansion dating to 1822. Its elaborate lobby, decked out with beautiful old cane and inlaid furniture, opens to a gorgeous courtyard garden where breakfast is served. Standard rooms have butter-yellow walls, crisp sheets, wi-fi and shuttered windows.

  There's also an on-site spa.

  o45 LekiuRENTAL HOUSE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-274 9686, 012-698 4917; www.45lekiu.com; 45 Jln Hang Lekiu; weekdays/weekends RM1299/1499; aWs)

  Sleeping four, this gorgeous restoration project of a shophouse has kept the big old beams and original exposed brickwork but has updated with stylish contemporary decor. There are cooking facilities. Highlights include a bougainvillea-filled courtyard with a dipping pool and a roof terrace overlooking the city.

  The same company also rents out the similar luxe restorations Stables ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-698 4917, 016-274 9686; http://thestablemalacca.com; No D Jln Hang Kasturi; r weekdays/weekends RM380/480; aW) and Opposite Place ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-698 4917, 016-274 9686; http://opposite-place.com; 18 Jln Hang Lekiu; r weekday/weekend incl breakfast from RM499/599; aW).

  Calanthe Artisan LoftRENTAL HOUSE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 2960; http://calantheartisanloft.wixsite.com/calantheartisanloft; 16 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; house RM500; aW)

  You won't fail to miss the technicolour entrance to this rental house run by the owners of Calanthe Art Cafe. It's not the fanciest home in Chinatown, but it has plenty of charm and comfortably sleeps four with a maximum of seven (RM50 for each extra person) if you use the beanbags in the TV room downstairs.

  Casa Del RioHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-289 6888; www.casadelrio-melaka.com; 88 Jln Kota Laksmana; r/ste incl breakfast from RM665/1574; aiWs)

  With a fabulous location right on the river and steps from Chinatown, Case Del Rio has palatial architecture that blends Portuguese/Mediterranean with Malaysian for a result that's airy and grand. Rooms are massive, with bathrooms fit for a Portuguese princess, and river-view rooms capture the feel of Asia and Venice combined.

  There's a rooftop infinity pool that overlooks the river and common areas are strewn with loungable couches and tons of cushions.

  4Jalan Merdeka & Around

  oRucksack CaratelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-292 2107; http://therucksackgroup.com/caratel; 107 Jln Banda Kaba; r incl breakfast from RM90; pWs)

  There's a fun flashpacker vibe at this great addition to central Melaka City's budget options. The cheapest rooms are in mock 'caravans' on the ground floor, each given a famous star's name and decorated with their portrait. More-pricey rooms offer heavenly king-sized beds and views of the neighbouring lush gardens of Sultanate Palace.

  oApa Kaba Home & StayGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 8196, 012-798 1232; www.apa-kaba.com; 28 Kg Banda Kaba; d/tr with shared bathroom from RM45/60, tw/tr RM85/95; aW)

  This tranquil homestay has rooms as low-key and relaxing as its kampung (village) setting, despite being within walking distance of central Melaka City. Rooms are simple (the more expensive have air-con) and there’s a large garden to lounge in, complete with chickens and dangling mango trees. The 1912 building is a mishmash of Malay and Chinese styles.

  The owners are long-term residents who treat guests like family. They are more than happy to impart the secrets of perfect chicken rice and where to find the best cendol (shaved-ice dessert with green noodles, syrups, fruit and coconut milk) in town.

  Quayside HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-284 1001; www.quaysidehotel.com.my; 1 Jln Merdeka; r/ste inc breakfast from RM195/230; aiW)

  Occupying an airy, warehouse-like building in a key location, the Quay combines contemporary style with great value. Rooms are spacious and modern, with wooden floors and big beds. The best ones have riverside balconies. Breakfast is served in the attached Halia Inc restaurant.

  Hotel EquatorialHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 8333; http://melaka.equatorial.com; Jln Bandar Hilir; r/ste from RM237/611; paiWs)

  The Equatorial has a refined air, elegantly decorated rooms, quality on-site restaurants and a decent-sized swimming pool. Good discounts are available online. Service is well mannered and the overall presentation is crisp.

  4Little India to Bukit China

  o1825 Gallery HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-288 2868; http://1825galleryhotel.com; 27-31 Jln Bunga Raya; r from RM151; aW)

  Three 1825 vintage shophouses have been combined to create this classy boutique hotel. Original features such as lofty ceilings, brick walls and wood beams harmonise with contemporary art, reclaimed-wood furniture and a waterfall splashing into a fish-filled pond in the lobby. Opt for a river suite with balcony overlooking the Melaka River.

  Bridge LoftRENTAL HOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-681 2719; www.thebridgeloft.com; 5 Lrg Jambatan; house RM180-380; aiW)

  One of the more affordable house-rental options in Melaka City is the Bridge Loft, which rents out rooms in three cosy shophouses steps from the Melaka River. Each are simply but tastefully furnished and sleep between two and six people. You can grab breakfast in the cute cafe beneath the unit at number 5.

  oMajestic MalaccaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-289 8000; www.majesticmalacca.com; 188 Jln Bunga Raya; r incl breakfast from RM568; aiWs)

  Claw-foot tubs and polished four-poster beds are just some of the trappings at this regal modern hotel. The bar, library and dining areas groan with nostalgia (think ornate Peranakan screens and gleaming teak furniture), while a small pool and richly endowed spa area add to the opulent feel.

  Majestic Malacca is mere steps away from Kampung Morten and a five-minute walk takes you to Little India.

  Swiss-Garden Hotel & ResidencesHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOO
GLE MAP ; %06-288 3131; www.swissgarden.com; T2, The Shore @ Melaka River, Jln Persisiran Bunga Raya; r from RM218; aiWs)

  The Swiss-Garden occupies part of the swanky new Shore development. Rooms are slickly designed and spacious with all the amenities you could wish for. It also manages some of the residency units in the attached apartment block; both the hotel and the units have access to a large central pool and gym facilities.

  WORTH A DETOUR

  AYER KEROH

  Ayer Keroh (also spelt Air Keroh) has a handful of kid-friendly attractions that are largely deserted on weekdays. Some feel a little contrived, but there's no denying this area, about 13km northeast of Melaka City, is a fine family day trip.

  Ayer Keroh's attractions are all clustered either side of a main highway. Bus 19 from Melaka Sentral (RM2, 30 minutes) stops at both the zoo and Taman Mini Malaysia. A taxi to the area will cost around RM45.

  Having your own wheels – either a car or scooter – will make it far easier to travel between each attraction as they are fairly spread out. Bicycles (RM5 per hour) can be rented at the entrance to Melaka Botanical Garden.

  Melaka Botanical GardenPARK

  (Taman Botanikal Melaka; GOOGLE MAP ; %06-231 4343; Lebuh Ayer Keroh)F

  A good place for an easy ramble, this lush green enclave is part jungle and part landscaped park with paved trails along which you can walk, cycle or ride an electric buggy – both the buggies and bikes can be rented at the entrance.

  Skytrex MelakaAMUSEMENT PARK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %018-909 5679; www.skytrex-adventure.com; Melaka Botanical Garden, Lebuh Ayer Keroh; RM55-65; h9am-3pm)

  There are two adventurous circuits strung between the trees to be tackled here – you'll get to do some climbing, zip-lining and general making out like Tarzan. Bookings for time slots between 9am and 3pm should be made online and it's a good idea to pay the extra RM20 for gloves and water.

  Melaka Bird ParkAVIARY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-233 0330; www.melakabirdpark.com; off Lebuh Ayer Keroh; adult/child RM23.70/17.80, with Melaka Wonderland RM65.20/53.30; h9am-6pm)

  At this well-set-up bird park, a short drive from the Melaka Botanical Garden, you can view around 450 local and international species and get a bird's-eye view from along a canopy walkway.

  Melaka WonderlandWATER PARK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-231 3333; www.melakawonderland.com.my; off Lebuh Ayer Keroh; adult/child RM45/37.90, with Melaka Bird Park RM65.20/53.30; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun)

  When it gets too steamy in Melaka, this water park, close to the Melaka Bird Park, is a great spot to head to cool off and have some fun. There are plenty of different slides to slosh down and pools to splash about in.

  Melaka Butterfly & Reptile SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE

  (Taman Rama Rama; GOOGLE MAP ; %06-232 0033; www.butterflyreptile.com; Lebuh Ayer Keroh; adult/child RM22/16; h8.30am-5.30pm)

  Your chance to get up close and personal with more than 20 species of butterflies as well as a collection of exotic creepy-crawlies, snakes and some crocodiles.

  Melaka ZooZOO

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-232 4054; www.melakazoo.com; Lebuh Ayer Keroh; adult/child RM23.70/17.80; h9am-6pm, night zoo 8-11pm Fri & Sat; p)

  Melaka's zoo has been going for more than 50 years and is home to more than 200 species of animal, from tigers and lions to less ferocious critters like capybaras, monkeys and mouse deer. The zoo takes pride in its conservation focus and most enclosures are large, though cages for some birds and smaller animals are still rather poky.

  The night safari allows visitors the chance to spot nocturnal animals at their most active but gets mixed reviews about the wildlife-spotting and live shows during this time.

  Taman Mini MalaysiaCULTURAL CENTRE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-234 9988; www.pknm.gov.my; Lebuh Ayer Keroh; adult/child RM24/18; h9am-6pm; p)

  This open-air museum exhibits traditional houses from all 13 Malaysian states. Visitors can tiptoe through a long-roofed fishing house from Perlis and peruse rice-pounding equipment from Langkawi at numerous re-creations across the site. It's family-focused and a little twee, but the houses are beautifully decorated with plenty of explanations about local traditions, foods and languages.

  Giant BFOOD

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Leboh Ayer Keroh; h9am-6pm)

  While visiting the Botanical Garden, it's worth dropping by this showroom for a local bee-breeding and honey-making demonstration. In the showroom, which is surrounded outside by stingless and Italian beehives, you can learn all about bees and sample various delicious honeys before you buy.

  Penang

  George Town

  Exploring the World Heritage Zone, staying in a boutique heritage hotel and digging into delicious hawker food.

  Penang National Park

  Hiking through rainforest to beaches where monkeys scamper.

  Tropical Spice Garden

  Becoming familiar with the contents of your spice rack at this wonderful hillside garden.

  The Habitat

  Encountering nature and enjoying cool breezes and fantastic views of the island from atop Penang Hill.

  Art & Garden by Fuan Wong

  Marvelling at this outdoor gallery of incredible plants, glass sculptures and contemporary art.

  Explore

  If there's a better microcosm of the exotic east than Penang, we've yet to find it. Located at the intersection of Asia’s great kingdoms and Europe's powerful colonial empires, Penang has long served as the link between Asia’s two halves and an important outlet to the markets of Europe and the Middle East.

  This is one of Malaysia’s most diverse, cosmopolitan and exciting cultures. It culminates in George Town, Penang Island's main city and an urban centre that delivers old-world Asia in spades; think trishaws pedalling past watermarked Chinese shophouses and blue joss smoke perfuming the air.

  Yet it would be a shame to neglect the rest of the island's tropical abundance, its palm-fringed beaches and fishing villages, its mountainous jungle and farms growing exotic produce such as nutmeg and durian.

  The Best…

  ATemple Kek Lok Si Temple

  ABeach Pantai Pasir Panjang

  AOff the Beaten Track Pulau Aman

  Top Tip

  Penang is best visited during the major festivals and events such as Chinese New Year and the George Town Festival, but book accommodation well in advance.

  Getting There & Away

  AAir Penang International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-252 0252; www.malaysiaairports.com.my; 11900 Bayan Lepas; g401), 18km south of George Town.

  ABoat There are two daily ferries connecting George Town with the beach resort island of Langkawi in Kedah, 120km north of Penang.

  ABus There are plenty of long distance buses to both Butterworth on the mainland and Sungai Nibong Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-659 2099; www.rapidpg.com.my; Jln Sultan Azlan Shah, Kampung Dua Bukit; g401, 303) on Penang Island.

  ATrain Penang’s train station, next to the ferry terminal and bus and taxi station in Butterworth, has services to and from Kuala Lumpur and Hat Yai in Thailand. Check with www.ktmb.com.my for fares and schedules.

  PRACTICAL TIP

  GETTING TO & FROM BUTTERWORTH

  Butterworth, the city on the mainland bit of Penang state (known as Seberang Perai), is home to Penang’s main train station and is the departure point for ferries to Penang Island. Unless you’re taking the train or your bus has pulled into Butterworth’s busy bus station from elsewhere, you’ll probably not need to spend any time here.

  The cheapest way to get to George Town is via the ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; foot passenger/bicycle/motorbike/car RM1.20/1.40/2/7.70; h5.20am-0.40am); the Pangkalan Sultan Abdul Halim Ferry Terminal is linked by walkway to Butterworth’s bus and train stations. Ferries take passengers and cars every 10 minutes from 5.20am to 9.30pm, every 20 minutes until 11.15pm, and hourly after that. The journey takes 10 minutes and fares are charged only for the journey from Butterworth to Penang; retu
rning to the mainland is free.

  Taxis to/from Butterworth (approximately RM50) cross the 13km Penang Bridge. There’s a RM7 toll payable at the toll plaza on the mainland, but no charge to return.

  If self-driving to or from Kuala Lumpur, the 24km Sultan Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah Bridge, joining Batu Maung at the southeastern tip of Penang Island to Batu Kawan on the mainland, is a more convenient route. The toll here is RM8.50.

  Getting Around

  ATo/From the Airport Bus 401 runs to and from the airport (RM4) every half-hour between 6am and 11pm daily, and stops at KOMTAR and Weld Quay, taking at least an hour. The fixed taxi fare to central George Town is RM44.70; expect the journey to take around 30 minutes depending on traffic.

  ABus Rapid Penang (%04-238 1313; www.rapidpg.com.my) runs public transport buses around the state. Fares range from RM1.40 to RM4. Most routes originate at Weld Quay Bus Terminal and most also stop at KOMTAR and along Jln Chulia. There are no public bus services connecting Butterworth and Penang Island.

  ACar & Motorcycle Hawk ( GOOGLE MAP ; %016-207 6535; www.hawkrentacar.com; 53-01-A Mbf Tower, Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah) and La Belle car hire operate out of George Town. There are also several companies based at Penang International Airport, including Avis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-643 9633; www.avis.com; Penang International Airport; h7.30am-9.30pm) and Hertz ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-643 0208; www.hertz.com; Penang International Airport; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun). You can hire motorcycles and scooters from many places, including guesthouses and shops along Lebuh Chulia. Manual bikes start at about RM30 and automatic about RM40, for 24 hours. A good alternative are the electric scooters of DAE Motors.