Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 25

  Our favourite Melaka City cafe is a secret oasis tucked behind an otherwise identikit souvenir shop in Chinatown. Soy milk for coffees and shakes is a great plus and you won't want to miss out on the delicious gua melaka (brown palm sugar) cake. There's a fab range of other things to eat too, but it's the tranquil atmosphere here that's the draw.

  oCalanthe Art CafeCOFFEE

  (13 States Coffee; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-292 2960; www.facebook.com/calanthe.melaka; 11 Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-11pm Fri-Wed; W)

  Full-bodied Johor or classic Perak white? Choose a Malaysian state's favourite coffee and this perky place will have it blended with ice and jelly cubes for a refreshing caffeine kick. Breakfasts are served here too (10am to 11.45am) and it's worth dropping by just to admire the creative decor.

  oBacklane CoffeeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 0542; www.facebook.com/Backlane-Coffee-574343952693116; 129 Jln Hang Jebat; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, until 1am Fri & Sat; W)

  Ace chill-out space that's an ideal retreat from all the tourist and karaoke craziness at this end of the Jonker Walk Night Market. There's a good range of coffee, tea and other beverages as well as a tempting range of professionally made cakes.

  oGeographér CafeBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 6813; www.geographer.com.my; 83 Jln Hang Jebat; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, until 2am Fri & Sat; W)

  A swinging soundtrack of Eurotrash, jazz and classic pop keeps the beers flowing at this traveller magnet. It's a well-ventilated cafe-bar, strewn with greenery and feeling like a haven despite bordering busy Jonker St. Monday nights have live jazz while Fridays and Saturdays bring a father-daughter vocal-keyboard duet (both 8.30pm).

  Geographér also serves decent food (mains RM15); watch out for the chilli kick of the kampung fried rice.

  oPampas Sky BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-707 2731; www.pampas.com.my; Level 41, The Shore Shopping Gallery, 193 Pinggiran @ Sungai Melaka, Jln Persisiran Bunga Raya; h4pm-1am Sun-Thu, until 2am Fri & Sat)

  The views of Melaka from the 41st floor of the Shore complex are impressive, but this bar and restaurant goes one further with a leafy outdoor area to relax in and enjoy a cocktail or beer.

  Discovery Cafe & Guest HouseCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-292 5606, 012-683 5606; www.discovery-malacca.com; 3 Jln Bunga Raya; i)

  Owner Bob Teng offers nearly everything that caters to travellers' needs here, from budget rooms, bicycle and scooter rental to bus tickets, tours and cafe food. At the very least drop by for a beer – they get cheaper the more of them you drink, with the best deals being for the party-sized 3L towers (RM75.90).

  There's live music most nights and the nearby riverside setting is pleasant.

  Idlers CornerCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 1748; www.facebook.com/malaccaidlerscorner; Lg Hang Jebat; hnoon-midnight)

  Snap open a beer or sip on soft drinks away from the Chinatown chaos at this simple but friendly bar with cane chairs and tables overlooking the water. Enter either through the clothing store on Lg Hang Jebat or find it along the riverside walkway.

  Kaya Kaya CafeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 4089; www.facebook.com/kayakayacafelol; 32 Jln Tukang Besi; h8am-6pm; W)

  Good spot if you're hankering for an early morning coffee or a spot of breakfast: try the yummy Melaka Elvis banana pancakes with peanut butter and chocolate sauce. The bare brick walls, street art and retro, mismatched furniture all add to the hipster vibe.

  Me & Mrs JonesPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-234 4292; 3 Jln Hang Kasturi; h7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)

  This cosy pub is staunchly unhip and all the more enjoyable for it. At weekends there is live blues and rock, often with retired co-owner Mr Tan leading a jam session. Relax into the atmosphere and grab a beer or juice (long menus are not the Jones' style).

  Sid's Pub @ JonkersPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 7437; www.sidspubs.com; 2 Lrg Hang Jebat; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, until 1am Fri & Sat)

  Sid's has been a fixture on the KL bar scene for years. He's now set up a branch in Melaka City, bagging a convivial, multilevel spot in a prime riverside position. Happy hour runs until 8pm and all day Sunday.

  WoodsCAFE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %016 622 7770; www.facebook.com/thewoodsbookstore; 35 Jln Gajah Berang; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue; W)

  Over near Kampung Chetti, this charmingly rustic cafe and secondhand bookshop is worth searching out. The owner takes his time making his hand-dripped coffee and herbal teas.

  MixxCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, Mahkota Arcade, Jln Syed Abdul Aziz; h10pm-late Tue-Sat)

  In a city where nightclubs are thin on the ground, Mixx dominates the scene with Paradox, a laser-lit, warehouse-style venue where international DJs spin techno and electronica; and Arris, which has a garden area and live bands. It's definitely Melaka's best place to pound a dance floor. Cover (RM10) is charged on Friday and Saturday nights and includes one drink.

  7Shopping

  oJonker Walk Night MarketMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Hang Jebat; h6-11pm Fri-Sun)

  Melaka City's weekly shopping extravaganza keeps the shops along Jln Hang Jebat open late, while trinket sellers, food hawkers and the occasional fortune teller close the street to traffic. Unashamedly commercial and attracting hordes of tourists, it is nevertheless an undeniably colourful way to spend an evening shopping and grazing.

  oOrangutan HouseART

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 6872; www.absolutearts.com/charlescham; 59 Lg Hang Jebat; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue)

  It's impossible to miss the giant orangutan mural above artist Charles Cham's gallery and T-shirt store. His colourful, primitive-style paintings sell for US$525 upwards, while his cheeky range of T-shirts (RM39) are a more affordable, wearable art for all. Designs range from Chinese astrology animals to uplifting slogans and 'play safe' banners above condoms.

  There are two smaller branches elsewhere in Chinatown on Jln Hang Jebat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/THE-ORANGUTAN-HOUSE-270362069913; 10 Jln Hang Jebat; h10am-6pm) and Jln Tokong Emas ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/theorangutanhouse/; 22 Jln Tokong; h10am-6pm).

  oTham Siew Inn Artist GalleryART

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 2112; www.thamsiewinn.com; 49 Jln Tun Tan Teng Lock; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue)

  Vibrant watercolours of sunsets, street scenes and temples fill this lovely art gallery spanning the entire length of a shophouse along with its inner courtyard garden. Also here, the artist's son carves traditional Chinese stone seals to your choice of design and is a very able artist in his own right.

  oTrash & TreasureMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-298 3834; 3 Jln Bunga Raya; h10am-5pm Sat & Sun)

  It's great fun rooting around this excellent new flea market in a riverside warehouse behind Discovery Cafe. All kinds of gifts and collectables are on offer, from vintage signs and bicycles to handmade jewellery, art and old magazines. The vibe is very relaxed.

  Red HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 30C Jln Hang Kasturi; h11am-6pm Thu-Tue)

  Ray Tan draws Japanese- and Chinese-inspired designs that range from flowing organic patterns to quirky cartoons. Watch him hand-print your favourite onto a 100% cotton T-shirt or peruse his intricate paper-cutting art. Also for sale are colourful Chinese baby toys.

  Hueman StudioART

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-288 1795; 9 Jln Tokong; h10.30am-6pm)

  Woodblock prints, many with themes such as astrology and calligraphy, take centre stage in this art studio-gift shop. Portable souvenirs include hand-painted rosewood jewellery (from RM16), buffalo-horn pendants (RM45) and more.

  Clay HouseARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-292 6916; 18 Jln Tukang Besi; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue)

  Perforated pottery tea-light holders, bowls and ornaments are made here by the clay craftsman, Leong Chee Hsiung. For RM60 he will also teach you how to make your own pot and post the finished product back to you
in a month's time.

  Puri PadiHOMEWARES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 2116; http://puripadi.blogspot.co.uk; 16 Jln Hang Kasturi)

  One of the more sophisticated gift shops in Chinatown, Puri Padi stocks everything you could need to turn your home into an old-world Asian oasis, from stone buddha heads and batik wall hangings to carved wood and pottery ornaments.

  Joe's DesignJEWELLERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 2960; www.facebook.com/joedesignhandcrafted; 6 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; h10am-5pm)

  Owl-shaped ornaments, iridescent floral necklaces and beautifully curled copper-wire creations are some of the stock at this lovely craft-jewellery shop.

  Malaqa HouseANTIQUES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 4770; 70 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; h10am-6pm)

  A huge museum-like shop in an elegant building stuffed to the gills with antiques and replicas – it's not cheap, but it bursts with character.

  Umyang BatikCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-292 6569; 6 Jln Hang Kasturi)

  The cat-and-mouse designs on Ha Mi Seon's hand-painted, batik-print T-shirts and other clothing are undeniably cute. It's a great place to pick up something for a child to wear. She uses all natural colours for her dyes.

  Wah Aik ShoemakerSHOES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-284 9726; http://wahaikshoemakermelaka.webs.com; 92 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock)

  The three Yeo brothers continue the shoemaking tradition begun by their grandfather. Their beaded Peranakan shoes are considered Melaka's finest and begin at a steep but merited RM350. The most unusual souvenirs are tiny bound-feet shoes (from RM95).

  This minute footwear harks back to China's now-defunct tradition of foot binding, where women endured lifelong pain and deformity to attain the 'golden lotus' ideal of feet no longer than 4in.

  Shore Shopping GalleryMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theshoreshoppinggallery.com; 193 Pinggiran @ Sungai Melaka, Jln Persisran Bunga Raya; h10am-10pm)

  Anchored by upmarket Singaporean department store Tangs, this is Melaka City's newest mall. It's a pleasant spot for a browse of around 100 shops if you're in this part of town, and it houses several other attractions, including an aquarium and the Sky Tower viewing platform.

  Dataran PahlawanMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 2898; www.dataranpahlawan.com; Jln Merdeka; h10am-10pm)

  Melaka's largest mall has a collection of upscale designer shops and restaurants in the western half and an underground craft-and-souvenir market in the eastern portion, which is beneath a grassy square where events are held.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  MELAKA'S ART GALLERIES

  With its potent cocktail of cultures and pretty urbanscapes, Melaka City inspires many an artist. Chinatown has an impressive concentration of independent galleries and craft workshops. Some are a delight for serious art collectors, such as Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery and Zheng He Duo Yun Zuan, with paintings and sculptures to browse and buy. Others, like Orangutan House and Hueman Studio, place their unique designs on handmade souvenirs and T-shirts.

  2Activities

  Reflexology centres are plentiful in Chinatown. A half-hour foot massage costs around RM25, but it's often worth paying a few extra ringgit for a quality experience.

  Kampung Morten Walking TourWALKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kampung Morten; h4pm Mon, Wed & Fri)F

  Protected by a bend in the Melaka River, Kampung Morten is a charming village of 85 homes, including 52 in traditional Melakan style. These free guided tours leave from Villa Sentosa; as long as you don't arrive at the same time as a tour bus, walking around is a relaxing experience and you'll meet plenty of welcoming people.

  Melaka River CruiseCRUISE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 4322, 06-286 5468; www.melakarivercruise.com; Jln Laksamana; adult/child RM15/7; h9am-11.30pm)

  The most convenient place to board this 40-minute riverboat cruise along Sungai Melaka is at the quay near the Maritime Museum. Cruises go 9km upriver past Kampung Morten and old godown (river warehouses) with a recorded narration explaining the riverfront's history.

  Old Melaka Heritage TourWALKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tourism Malaysia, Jln Kota; h9am Tue, Thu & Sat)F

  Lasting around 2½ hours, this guided walk sets off from Tourism Malaysia's office beside Dutch Sq and takes in the key sights of the Unesco Heritage area, including Bukit St Paul and Chinatown.

  Nancy’s KitchenCOOKING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 6099; www.eatatnancyskit.com; 13 Jln KL 3/8,, Taman Kota Laksamana Seksyen 3; per person RM180)

  Nancy of this near-legendary Peranakan restaurant teaches cookery classes by request. Reserve well in advance.

  Nonya Culinary JourneyCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Hotel Equatorial 06-282 8333; Hotel Equatorial, Jln Parameswara; per person RM115)

  These two-hour cooking classes include a set lunch and a certificate of completion. You'll cook three Peranakan (Nonya) dishes, including specialities such as ayam pong teh (miso soy chicken) and udang lemak nenas (prawns with pineapple and spicy coconut), hands-on with the chef. Advanced booking required.

  Peranakan Culinary JourneyCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-289 8000; www.majesticmalacca.com; Majestic Malacca Hotel, 188 Jln Bunga Raya; per person RM290)

  Learn about each ingredient and the history of each dish with a master Peranakan chef who does most of the cooking at the Majestic Malacca Hotel. Book one week in advance. A minimum of two people and a maximum of four keeps things intimate.

  Malacca Night CyclingCYCLING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-668 8898; 46A Jln Portugis; per person RM35)

  Operating out of Ringo's Foyer hostel, these guided cycling tours through Melaka City will test your trishaw-dodging skills. Evening, when the temperature drops, is the most pleasant time to tour the city. Tours leave by arrangement at 8.30pm and last 90 minutes (or longer, if you like). Call a day or two in advance to book.

  Eco Bike TourCYCLING

  (%019-652 5029; www.melakaonbike.com; per person RM100)

  Explore the fascinating landscape around Melaka City with Alias on his three-hour bike tour (minimum two people) through 20km of oil-palm and rubber-tree plantations and delightful kampung communities surrounding town. Flag your level of fitness when you book. Pickups are from your accommodation.

  Biossentials Puri SpaSPA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 5588; www.hotelpuri.com/spa.html; Hotel Puri, 118 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; h10am-7pm)

  This spa in a sensual garden isn't a walk-in like Jonker St's casual reflexology outlets. The reward for booking ahead is the delicious menu of treatments, including steams, scrubs, facials and milk baths. Aromatherapy foot treatments (45 minutes) start at RM65, while body wraps and deep-tissue massages (one hour) cost around RM145.

  Huolong Foot Reflexology & MassageMASSAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-602 5717; 5 Jln Hang Lekir; h11am-11pm)

  This centrally located massage place offers good value to have your toes reset with a satisfying snap. A half-hour reflexology session costs RM30, while a full hour treating your shoulders and feet is RM45.

  4Sleeping

  Melaka City has a dynamic accommodation scene with new places frequently popping up. The quality is the best it's been in years and there's a good range of rental properties in characterful heritage buildings should you wish to have your private Melaka City space. Chinatown is the best area to be based in or near, although it can get both busy and noisy, particularly at weekends.

  4Chinatown

  oNomapsHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 8311; www.thenomaps.com; 11 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; dm/r incl breakfast from RM80/270; aiW)

  A real step up for Melaka's hostel options. The attractive street art of Kenji Chai decorates the walls of this otherwise minimalist flashpackers in a key Chinatown location. Six- and four-bed dorms are tiny but have colourful duvets and quality mattresses. A laundry and comfy TV ro
om are other pluses.

  Ringo's FoyerGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 6393, 016-668 8898; www.ringosfoyer.com; 46A Jln Portugis; s/d/q incl breakfast from RM25/60/100; aW)

  Travellers will find a warm welcome at this super convivial hostel. The friendly owners do a great job of keeping the atmosphere sociable, particularly in the rooftop cafe and hang-out area. With bike rental, laundry (RM8) and guitars, this place has everything a weary backpacker could want.

  Howard, the owner, also runs Malacca Night Cycling.

  Cafe 1511 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-286 0150; 52 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; s/d incl breakfast from RM60/90; iW)

  As well as operating a cafe, this old Peranakan mansion has six small, simple, spotless rooms for overnight stays. The place has an old-style feeling accompanied by the music of a water fountain in the light well that extends from the restaurant below.

  Rooftop GuesthouseHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-327 7746, 012-380 7211; rooftopguesthouse@yahoo.com; 39 Jln Kampung Pantai; d RM93, dm/d/tr with shared bathroom RM28/63/84; a)