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  Day 3: Igli To Tajalajt

  Duration seven to 7½ hours / Distance 24km / Ascent 350m / Descent 400m

  Looming on the right-hand side as you walk is the peak of Jebel Amlal, sacred to the Aït Atta and the site of August pilgrimages. The morning’s walk is gentler than the previous day’s, leading through wide, rocky valleys. After 1½ hours, beneath the village of Taouginte, the path curves around an Aït Atta cemetery, where graves are marked with piles of stone. The path then leads below the Needles of Saghro, a long, dramatic cliff that slopes down after another 1½ hours to the Amguis River. Several valleys meet at a beautiful camping spot, amid palms and oleander. Half an hour southwards down the valley is Irhazzoun n'Imlas, a village above well-tended fields with a riverside lunch spot.

  At Irhazzoun n'Imlas the path joins a piste that runs left to N’Kob and right towards the Dadès. Take the right track (northwest) towards a sheer cliff on the left, with the rocky path leading beneath it and up to a broadening valley. The piste loops around the north side of Jebel Tassigdelt Si el-Haj (1722m) and then south again towards Tiguiza, where there is a basic gîte (%0671 72 80 06; per person Dh60). Before Tiguiza, another piste leads right (west) to Akerkour village, into a narrowing valley dotted with palms, and up an incline to Tajalajt, where you can arrange a homestay (per person Dh60) and maybe obtain basic meals.

  Day 4: Tajalajt To Achmrah

  Duration Eight to 8½ hours / Distance 26km / Ascent 200m / Descent 300m

  Take the valley piste from Tajalajt, above splendid terraced palm and almond groves. Less than 1½ hours brings you to Assaka n’Aït Ouzzine (1584m), its ruined kasbah teetering above the beautiful valley. Next, the piste leads out of the valley into a rocky, windy steppe.

  After 1½ hours from Assaka spent wedged between 2000m ridges, you’ll arrive at Tagmout (also called Amgroud after one of the mountains overlooking the village) and a well-kept gîte (per person Dh60) with electricity, mattresses, blankets and possibly lunch (around Dh30).

  From Tagmout the piste leads northwest to Kelaâ M’Gouna and south to N’Kob, with transport headed to N’Kob’s Sunday souq. The trek heads due north, climbing over an hour to Tizi n’Tagmout (1754m) for stunning views to the M’Goun Massif. Another hour leads to El-Mersse, where shade and a year-round spring facilitate camping.

  The track continues due north, mostly in gentle descent, but with occasional climbs. Less than 1½ hours after El-Mersse, there’s a riverside camp siteunder shade trees at Tidkit and it may be possible to sleep chez l’habitant here or in Achmrah, another hour down the track. However, the Berbers on this side of Jebel Saghro are seminomadic and may be absent April to May. If the houses are empty, the animal shelters will be too – a less glamorous but practical place to sleep.

  Day 5: Achmrah To Kelaâ M'Gouna

  Duration four hours / Distance 14km / Ascent 150m / Descent 450m

  The best parts of this morning walk are the beginning and end. The track north of Achmrah makes a short climb, suddenly revealing M’Goun and Siroua vistas. Less than half an hour later, it crosses a piste that leads to an anthracite mine and should not be followed. Instead continue north, occasionally northwest, on a well-worn track that leads down a gully towards the Dadès Valley. As you get closer, you will see the villages of Aït Youl on your left, Aït Haroun on the right, and a valley studded with old kasbahs. Head for Aït Haroun, where there is a bridge over the Dadès River. The Boumalne–Kelaâ M’Gouna road is nearby, but long after you return to the modern world, Saghro’s seminomadic spirit stays with you.

  BEFORE YOU GO: JEBEL SAGHRO CHECKLIST

  Maps The 1:100,000 Boumalne and Tazzarine maps cover the region, but a more detailed trekking map with history and information on the back is 1:100,000 Randonnée culturelle dans le Djebel Sarhro, by Mohamed Aït Hamza and Herbert Popp, published in Germany, written in French and available in Morocco, including at hotels in Boumalne and N’Kob.

  Guide Several foreign tour operators run good-value trips here, but many of them subcontract to local guides. You can find a licensed local guide directly through a bureau des guides in any of the three Saghro trekking centres: Kelaâ M'Gouna, Boumalne and N'Kob. Expect to pay Dh350 a day for a guide and Dh150 for a mule.

  Water Dehydration is common any time of the year, so pack extra water.

  Food Stock up in Ouarzazate or Boumalne de Dadès. The three Saghro departure towns all have tea, tinned fish, biscuits and bread, and you may find eggs, dates, almonds, bread and tinned sardines in some villages.

  Mule Given the amount of water you must carry, mules are a worthwhile investment. Your guide can organise mules and muleteers.

  Gear Bring a sleeping bag. You won’t need a tent, unless you’d rather camp than stay at refuges.

  Dadès Gorge مخنف ا مفيق ا دادس

  As the local saying goes, the wind has a son who lives in Boumalne, which is why he rips down this valley to visit him in winter. Sitting in the rain shadow of the Central Atlas, the Dadès Gorge presents a dramatic landscape: ancient rust-red and mauve mountains stripped back to zigzagging layers of strata and knobbly rock formations reminiscent of Utah. A rush of springtime water puddles in the valley where irrigation channels siphon it off to fields of wheat and orchards of fig, almond and olive trees. A series of crumbling kasbahs and ksour line the valley in the Berber villages of Aït Youl, Aït Arbi, Aït Oudinar, Aït Ouffi and Aït Toukhsine.

  1Sights

  Nomads still live in the surrounding mountains with their herds (you can see some of their troglodyte caves from the Berbere de la Montagne campground) and use the valley as a seasonal livestock between their High Atlas summer pastures and their winter home in Jebel Saghro. In spring and autumn, if you’re lucky, you’ll see them on the move with laden camels and mules.

  The R704 road is sealed all the way to Msemrir, 63km north of Boumalne de Dadès, but you’ll need a 4WD beyond that – especially for the piste that leads southeast into Todra Gorge. If you’re up for a challenge, you could travel north from Msemrir over the High Atlas to Imilchil. Lots of transport heads up the valley on Saturday for the Msemrir market. There's also a market in Aït Oudinar on Sunday.

  The most dramatic gorge scenery commences 26km up the gorge where the road crosses the river and starts to climb through an extraordinary series of hairpin bends (see www.dangerousroads.org). When the road flattens out again, you might take that as your cue to turn around: you’ve covered the best gorge scenery you can see without a 4WD or good hiking shoes.

  Tamlalt ValleyVALLEY

  Eighteen kilometres from Boumalne brings you to extraordinary red rock formations that look like wax, melting right into the green carpet of the palmeraie below Aït Arbi. They’re known locally as Les Doigts de Singes (‘Monkey’s Fingers’) given their bizarre wind-worn shapes. A little further on is the more colourfully named ‘Valley of Human Bodies’, where famished travellers are said to have died of hunger and been turned to stone.

  Aït YoulMEDINA

  Those art-deco tourism posters you’ll see all over Morocco showing a red-and-white kasbah in a rocky oasis aren’t exaggerating: just 6.5km into the gorge the old Glaoui kasbah of Aït Youl is set against a lush backdrop of almond and fig trees. A couple of kilometres past Aït Youl, the road crosses an oued; this river valley offers a sneaky back way to Kelaâ M’Gouna on foot.

  Gorge de MiguirneGORGE

  (Sidi Boubar Gorge)

  Cresting over a small pass, 14km from Boumalne, is the hidden Gorge de Miguirne, which joins the Dadès Gorge from the south. It offers a pleasant half-day hike amid its springs and rock pools. Ask at your guesthouse for a guide.

  Association Gorge du DadèsARTS & CRAFTS

  (%0677 90 96 70, 0666 39 69 49; Km 24, Aït Oudinar; h2-5pm Mon-Sat)

  Tufted carpets are made at this weaving cooperative, but soft kilim blankets made with undyed, extra-fluffy lambswool are signature pieces. The women are introducing nonchemical dyes made from local walnuts shells (brown), o
nion skins (yellow) and poppies (black). Items are sold at fixed prices and the weaver is paid directly.

  From the roadside sign, follow arrows to the western bank to find the converted stable currently housing the cooperative.

  IMILCHIL: MOROCCO'S MEET MARKET

  Just another striking Middle Atlas Berber village most of the year, Imilchil is flooded with visitors during its three-day marriage moussem (Imilchil; hSep) in September. At this huge festival, local Berbers scope the scene for marriage material. Women strut their stuff in striped woollen cloaks and elaborate jewellery, and boys preen in flowing white jellabas (garments).

  The festival usually runs Friday to Sunday in the third or fourth week of September; dates are posted at tourist offices throughout the country. Organised tours to the event are available from cities throughout Morocco, and newly paved roads from Rich and Aït Haini to Imilchil have brought busloads of tourists to see romance blossom. With hustlers, faux guides and souvenir stalls eyeing the tourists, onlookers are beginning to outnumber the young lovers – but there’s no denying the voyeuristic fascination of the event.

  During the festival, the area is covered in tented accommodation. Otherwise, there is basic hotel accommodation at Chez Bassou and Hotel Izlane.

  2Activities

  There’s a good trekking trail heading northwest, beginning just across the river, 28km from Boumalne du Dadès. The energetic could cover the distance from Dadès and Todra Gorges on foot (a two- to three-day walk). Most hotels in the gorge and Boumalne du Dadès can arrange hiking guides (around Dh300 per day), 4WD trips to the Todra Gorge (Dh1500 per day) and bicycle hire (around Dh100).

  Bureau des GuidesTREKKING

  (0671 31 09 23; Km 3)

  Monyr Hammdu runs this small outfit some 3km north of Boumalne, and leads a wide range of treks from one-day outings (around €50) to weeklong excursions. He speaks English, German, French and Dutch.

  4Sleeping

  Most accommodation in the gorge is within 28km of Boumalne du Dadès, and the kilometre markings refer to the distance from Boumalne. Most will let you sleep in the salon or on the terrace (even in summer you may need a sleeping bag) for around Dh30, or camp by the river for around the same price.

  Chez L'Habitant AmazighGUESTHOUSE€

  (%0670 71 45 51; [email protected]; Km 20, Aït Arbi; d Dh200-300, s/d incl half-board Dh300/500; W)

  Spend a night at the Tair family home and you'll get a warm introduction to Berber life, with nightly discussions of history and culture, followed by family music jams (from 8pm to 9pm). Cheerfully decorated pink pisé rooms and exuberantly furnished salons can't compete with first-class terrace views over the river and valley rock formations.

  It's also a good place to arrange treks to visit nomad camps, abandoned kasbahs and intriguing rock formations.

  Le Berbère de la MontagneCAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE€

  (%0524 83 02 28; www.berbere-montagne.com; Km 34; per person incl half-board Dh250-300, campsite for 2 Dh80; paW#)

  With tent pitches overlooking the river, and the hotel within a few metres of the narrowest point of the gorge, this friendly place offers peaceful accommodation far from the madding crowds. It's also perfectly located for hikes into the Petit Gorge and up into the hills to visit nomad encampments and secret caves hung with stalactites.

  The 10 pleasant rooms come with tataoui ceilings, terracotta tiled floors and pine beds heaped with warm blankets. Laundry facilities/electricity are an additional Dh50/20, and guides Dh200 per day.

  Auberge des Gorges du DadèsINN€

  (%0524 83 02 21; www.aubergeaitoudinar.com; Km 25, Aït Oudinar; camping per person/tent/car Dh10/20/20, s/d per person incl half-board Dh260/200; pa)

  Bubbly with personality and overlooking the river, the Auberge has 30 rooms that cover the waterfront with Moroccan motifs: pisé Amazigh designs in one wing, ornate stucco and eye-catching tiles in another. Some have balconies and all have basic en suites and tiled floors. Guided hikes and 4WD trips are available.

  Chez BassouHOTEL€

  (%0523 44 24 02; www.chezbassou.com; Imilchil; s/d incl breakfast from Dh250/300; W)

  This 20-room guesthouse has a fine location in the mountains. Rooms are small but clean and comfortable, with adequate blankets for cold Atlas nights. Meals are available at the good on-site restaurant.

  Hotel IzlaneHOTEL€

  (%0661 22 48 82; www.hotelizlane.com; Imilchil; s/d incl half-board from Dh250/400)

  Offers clean, fairly priced rooms and decent meals. Staff are helpful and you can also arrange excursions.

  Chez PierreINN€€

  (%0524 83 02 67; www.chezpierre.org; Km 27, Aït Ouffi; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast Dh475/620/800/900; Ws)

  Eight light-filled rooms and one apartment are notched right into the gorge wall, with tasteful, minimalist decor, flowering terraces and poolside sun decks. A rosy gorge sunset is the prelude to spectacular five-course dinners (Dh230) featuring inventive appetisers, delicately cooked duck in red wine jus and impeccable tarte Tatin served beside the snug wood-burning stove.

  Brothers Ismael and Lahcen Sibiri run the inn with great pride and passion and offer guided day trips in English, French and Spanish. There are also several apartments accommodating six to eight people.

  Maison 4 SaisonsGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0524 83 17 55; www.chambresdhotesdades.com; Km 24, Aït Oudinar; s/d incl half-board Dh330/500)

  Book early for one of the four 'seasonal' rooms at Youssef Azrarag's welcoming guesthouse, where Berber hospitality, vintage French furniture and bright local decor blend seamlessly. All the rooms overlook the lovely patio garden where numerous varieties of mountain mint and verveine perfume the air.

  oKasbah de MimiGUESTHOUSE€€€

  (%0671 52 38 55; http://kasbah-mimi.webliberte.net; Km 12, Aït Ibrine; per person incl half-board €50; aWs)

  Save yourself the trouble of cultivating friends with fabulous country houses, and book a weekend at one of four rooms at Kasbah de Mimi. At this painstakingly restored cliffside getaway, everything is in excellent taste: Berber baraka painted on living-room walls, pâté hors d’ouevres, water-conserving rose gardens tumbling to the valley floor, and a grand piano in the fully stocked library.

  The 500m cliffhanger of a driveway is harrowing, but village kids will cheer your arrival.

  5Eating

  The best dining in the valley is at Chez Pierre. Other than that there are a few casual eateries along the valley. To snap that iconic image of the road snaking up the valley, stop for coffee or a snack at Hotel Restaurant Timzzillite (mains Dh40-80; h10am-8pm).

  Le Jardin de SourceMOROCCAN€

  (%0670 01 90 30; Km 11, Aït Ibrirne; mains Dh40-100; h11am-9pm; W)

  Quick lunches at this garden restaurant near the mouth of the gorge include flavourful vegetarian options, omelettes and marinated turkey kebabs. Several good-value rooms (Dh250 per person, including half-board) are also available.

  8Getting There & Away

  Grands taxis and minibuses run up the gorge from Boumalne to the cluster of hotels in Aït Oudinar and Aït Ouffi (Dh10) and to Msemrir (Dh30, 1½ to two hours). To return, flag down a passing vehicle. You can also hire a taxi for a half-day trip (Dh250) into the gorge. Minibuses run up to Msemrir often; the last one back to Boumalne leaves around 4pm.

  OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

  GORGE YOURSELF: DADèS TO TODRA

  The 42km piste drive from Dadès Gorge to Tamtattouchte in the Todra Gorge is a tough five-hour journey through twisting hills and the boulder-strewn valley of Tizgui n'Ouadda. The crossing is prone to flash floods, so seek up-to-date advice on the state of the piste before setting off. The route starts with a bone-rattling ascent at Tilmi, 15km north of Msemrir, and then crests the 2639m-high Tizi n’Uguent Zegsaoun before descending through a long valley to emerge just north of Tamtattouchte.

  The trip should only be attempted by 4WD during the summer months (May to September), and a local guide is recommended. In M
ay, many nomadic Berbers with homes in Aït Haini head to this valley to pitch tents and graze large herds of sheep. If you stop, you may be invited into tents to sip tea and swap stories.

  Tinerhir تنرهير

  Pop 36,000

  Charm falls a distant third to dust and hustle in Tinerhir (aka Tinghir), a busy mining-town transit hub recently benefitting from a rash of expansion and construction thanks to an administrative upgrade to independent provincial capital. If you need a break after the 51km drive from Boumalne du Dadès, head to the eastern edge of town, where a palm oasis unfolds like a green umbrella. Under the canopy, you’ll discover crumbling kasbahs, the abandoned 19th-century Medersa Ikelane (look for the whitewashed mudbrick cupola) and, to the north of town, the ruins of Ksar Asfalou, where Muslim and Jewish students once studied under the same roof. An enormous souq is held 2.5km west of the centre on Monday, and there’s a Saturday livestock souq in town.

  Oasis guides are available at Hôtel Tomboctou.

  4Sleeping

  Kasbah Petit NomadeHERITAGE HOTEL€

  (%0668 49 58 38; http://kasbah-petitnomade.com; N 31°31.683, W 005°33.386, Douar Ichmarine; s/d incl half-board Dh400/660; paW)S

  North of town, Lahcen and Mouna's restored kasbah is a find amid Tinerhir's bleak hotel scene. Three simple rooms decked out in bold reds and mauve sit around an internal courtyard while terrace tables look out over a dense thicket of palmeraie. The food here is made with flair and features a bounty of fresh produce sourced from local farms.