Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  Bukit ChinaCEMETERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Puteri Hang Li Poh)

  More than 12,500 graves, including about 20 Muslim tombs, cover the 25 grassy hectares of serene 'Chinese Hill'. In the middle of the 15th century, the sultan of Melaka imported the Ming emperor's daughter from China as his bride in a move to seal relations between the two countries. She brought with her a vast retinue, including 500 handmaidens, who settled around Bukit China. It has been a Chinese area ever since.

  Since the times of British rule, there have been several attempts to acquire Bukit China for road widening, land reclamation or development purposes. Fortunately, Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, with strong community support, has thwarted these attempts.

  At the base of the hill is the Poh San Teng Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Puteri Hang Li Poh). 'Precious Hill Temple' was built around 1795 and is dedicated to the guardian deity Tua Pek Kong. To the right of the temple is the King's Well, a 15th-century well built by Sultan Mansur Shah.

  St Peter's ChurchCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 2950; 166 Jln Bendahara)F

  This is the oldest functioning Catholic church in Malaysia, built in 1710 by descendants of early Portuguese settlers. It has recently been given a repaint in cream and green and houses some colourful statues.

  1Kampung Chetti

  As well as the Peranakan community, Melaka City also has a small contingent of Chetti – Straits-born Indians, offspring of the Indian traders who intermarried with Malay women. Arriving in the 1400s, the Chetties are regarded as older than the Chinese-Malay Peranakan community.

  Their traditional village, Kampung Chetti, lies west of Jln Gajah Berang, about 1km northwest of Chinatown; look for the archway with elephant sculptures opposite where Jln Gajah Berang meets Jln Kampong Empat. The best time to visit this colourful neighbourhood is during Hindu festivals such as the Mariamman Festival (Pesta Datuk Charchar) in late April or early May.

  Chetti MuseumMUSEUM

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 1289; Jln Gajah Berang; adult/child RM2/1; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)

  This small museum is a community effort with a collection of artefacts, including antique cendol (shaved ice) makers and embroidered wedding garb. There are excellent English-language explanations about the Chetti language and rites of passage, plus news clippings about local efforts to preserve Chetti heritage.

  Sri Subramaniam Thuropathai Amman AlayamTEMPLE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Gajah Berang, Kampung Chetti; h7.30am-10pm)F

  A huge gopuram (tower), as elaborate and pink as a tiered wedding cake, erupts from this temple. Few visitors come here, but if you shed your shoes you can marvel at exterior statues of Surya with his chariot pulled by seven horses, and at a rainbow of enamelled decorations inside.

  1Southeast of the City Centre

  Masjid Selat MelakaMOSQUE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Jln Baiduri 8; h7am-7pm)

  Especially beautiful during morning or dusk light, this gold-domed mosque gazes dreamily at the Strait of Melaka from its shoreside perch on an artificial island a short taxi ride or bicycle pedal from central Melaka City. Completed in 2006, the mosque's grand archways are panelled with stained glass. When water levels are high, it appears to float.

  Non-Muslim visitors are permitted provided they dress modestly and heed the 'no shoe' signs around different parts of this large complex. Women must bring a scarf or use a rental shawl to cover their head.

  There are few attractions nearby and taxis don't always ply this part of town. If you don't have your own wheels, ask a taxi driver for a return trip (RM15 each way) plus waiting time.

  Medan PortugisSQUARE

  (Portuguese Square; GOOGLE MAP )

  Roughly 4km east of the city centre, this seaside square populated by seafood restaurants is the focal point of Melaka City’s Eurasian community. Many of the residents are descended from marriages between the colonial Portuguese and Malays some 400 years ago and many of them speak Kristang, a Creole language that mixes Malay with archaic Portuguese. The square, styled after a typical Portuguese mercado, wasn’t completed until the late 1980s.

  The kampung (village) is unexceptional and the square is often empty, except in the evenings when people come here to down a beer and scoff seafood. The sea breeze is lovely even if the views are being marred by construction of the new Harbour City development. Bus 17 from Dutch Sq will get you here.

  Prison MuseumMUSEUM

  (FIB Muzium Penjara Malaysia; GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 3548; cnr Jln Parameswara & Jln Melati; adult/child RM6/3; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  Fixing an unflinching gaze on Malaysian prisons, past and present, this museum occupies – naturally enough – a former prison. There is interesting detail on the 18th-century beginnings of the Malaysian prison system, how it was shaped under British rule, and on famous jails like Pulau Jerjak, Malaysia's version of Alcatraz. Things get more disturbing with interactive displays on corporal punishment and the insides of lonely prison cells. Definitely not one for the kids.

  The museum is isolated 2.5km east of Chinatown; a taxi should cost around RM10.

  5Eating

  Peranakan cuisine is Melaka City's most famous type of cooking. It's also known as Nonya (or Nyonya), an affectionate term for a Peranakan wife (often the family chef). You'll also find Portuguese Eurasian food, Indian, Chinese and more.

  5Chinatown & Around

  oNancy's KitchenMALAYSIAN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 6099; www.eatatnancyskit.com; 13 Jln KL 3/8, Taman Kota Laksamana; mains RM10; h11am-5pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, 11am-9pm Fri & Sat)

  The mouth-watering meals stirred up in this Peranakan (Nonya) restaurant are revered in Melaka and Nancy's Kitchen lives up to the hype. Local diners crowd this small restaurant, especially at weekends, their bellies rumbling for a taste of signature dishes like candlenut chicken (succulent meat simmered in a nutty sauce, fragrant with lemongrass).

  If you want to take some Peranakan home-cooking flair away with you, call to arrange cooking courses with Nancy herself.

  oPak Putra RestaurantPAKISTANI$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-601 5876; 58 Jln Kota Laksmana 4; mains RM9-12; h5.30pm-1am, closed alternate Mon; v)

  Scarlet tikka chickens rotate hypnotically on skewers, luring diners to this excellent Pakistani restaurant. With aromatic vegetarian dishes, seafood and piquant curries, there's no shortage of choice (try the masala fish). The unchallenged highlights are oven-puffed naan bread and chicken fresh from the clay tandoor. Portions are generous and service is speedy.

  Low Yong MohCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 1235; 32 Jln Tukang Emas; dim sum RM2.40-3.70; h5.30am-noon Wed-Mon)

  Famous across Melaka for its large and delectably well-stuffed pao (steamed pork buns), this place is Chinatown's biggest breakfast treat. With high ceilings, plenty of fans running and a view of Masjid Kampung Kling, the atmosphere oozes charm. It's usually packed with talkative, newspaper-reading locals by around 7am. Food offerings thin out by 11am, so arrive early.

  Poh Piah LweeMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 14 Jln Kubu; mains RM3-5; h9am-5pm)

  This lively hole in the wall has one specialist cook preparing delicious Hokkien-style popiah (lettuce, bean sprouts, egg and chilli paste in a soft sleeve), another making near-perfect rojak (fruit and vegetable salad in a shrimp paste, lime juice, sugar and peanut dressing), while the third whips up laksa.

  Jonker 88DESSERTS$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 88 Jln Hang Jebat; mains RM6-10.50; h11am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)

  Slurp-worthy laksa and decent Peranakan fare are served up at this efficient and busy canteen. But the highlight is its cendol, which comes in a fabulous selection of flavours and toppings. This frosty dessert, a mountain of shaved ice, coconut, pandan noodles, red beans and jaggery syrup, is as rainbow-coloured (and wacky) as it sounds.

  Shui Xian VegetarianCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-635 8052; 43 Jln Hang Lekiu; mains RM2.8
0-6; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat; v)

  In a city where vegetable dishes so often arrive strewn with shrimp or pork, vegetarians can breathe a sigh of relief here. This no-frills canteen whips up meat-free versions of nasi lemak (rice boiled in coconut milk, served with fried ikan bilis, peanuts and a curry dish), laksa and even 'chicken' rice balls.

  Green House Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-1073 1188; www.facebook.com/greenhousemalacca; 4 Jln Kota Laksamana 1; mains RM10; h11.30am-3.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm; v)

  Serving decent veggie versions of classic Malay dishes such as the fragrant soup bah-kut-teh (usually made with pork) and sweet-and-sour assam fish. If you don't fancy these mock-meat dishes, there are plenty of vegetables that can be cooked just to your liking.

  Limau-Limau CafeINTERNATIONAL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Jln Hang Lekiu; mains from RM7; h9am-5pm Thu-Mon; Wv)

  Choose from healthy granolas or towering sandwiches and wash it all down with tempting smoothies like dragonfruit or a papaya-lime blend (RM10 to RM12).

  Seeds GardenVEGETARIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-363 9626; www.seedsgarden.com.my; 60 Jln Tokong; mains RM13-15; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6-9pm Thu-Tue; v)

  Among the spate of veggie restaurants that appear to be blooming across Melaka, this one is certainly the trendiest looking. It's also probably the only one that's inspired by the principles of phytotherapy – eating healthily to improve personal, social and environmental wellness.

  Chung WahSOUTHEAST ASIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 18 Jln Hang Jebat; chicken half/whole RM22.30/44.60; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, until 4pm Sat & Sun)

  As you'll see from the queue outside, this is one of Melaka City's top spots for juicy poached chicken served with wadded balls of rice, themselves sticky with chicken stock. That's the only dish on offer, but it's done perfectly and served with cooling beakers of freshly squeezed lime juice.

  Hoe Kee Chicken Rice BallCHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 Jln Hang Jebat; mains from RM14; h9.30am-4.30pm)

  A popular pilgrimage place for Hainanese chicken rice; don't expect a menu or deferential service. The queue allows plenty of time to decide if you're hungry enough for a quarter chicken (RM14) or a whole one (RM42).

  oKocik KitchenPERANAKAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-929 6605; 100 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; mains RM20-30; h11am-6.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 11am-5pm & 6-9pm Fri & Sat, 11am-7.30pm Sun)

  This unassuming little restaurant is hot on the heels of Melaka City's other Peranakan (Nonya) specialists; try the creamy lemak nenas prawns, swimming in fragrant coconut milk with fresh chunks of pineapple. The set lunch (RM12 to RM15) is a bargain.

  oSalud TapasSPANISH$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 9881; www.facebook.com/SALUDTAPAS; 94 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; tapas/mains from RM12/46; h12.30pm-1am Wed-Mon; W)

  'Small bites, big flavours' is the tag line for this sophisticated new tapas bar that really delivers. It helps that the chef is Spanish and that the ingredients and recipes are authentic. It's a lovely spot for a glass of wine and a few appetisers but equally tempting for a full meal such as paella.

  Baboon HouseBURGERS$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-938 6013; 89 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; burgers RM15; h10am-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 7pm Fri-Sun; W)

  If gourmet burgers, such as Greek-style spicy lamb or the signature Baboon pork belly, sound like a pleasant change from tastebud-searing Indian or Peranakan cuisine, settle in for a meal here. The setting in a time-worn shophouse with a plant-filled courtyard is delightful, though the signs forbidding photography and urging quiet somewhat tarnish the mood.

  Street KitchenFUSION$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-329 8331; www.facebook.com/thestreetkitchenmlk; 47 Jln Laksamana; mains RM9-22; h5pm-2am Wed-Mon)

  Dishes such as sweet-and-sour pomfret, homemade popcorn chicken and Thai-style spaghetti are among the Asian-fusion dishes that this youthful and friendly operation turns out. With seats beside the Melaka River, it's also a great spot to sip one of the tropical mocktails and juices.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  JONKER WALK'S HAWKER CRAWL

  The best reason for elbowing your way through the crowds that descend on the Jonker Walk Night Market is to graze on its lip-smacking range of local hawker food treats. Look out for the following items.

  Kuih nonya Coconut milk and sticky-rice sweets, too colourful to resist.

  Dodol Jellies made from the seaweed agar agar in gua melaka (palm sugar), pandan and durian flavours.

  Pineapple tarts Buttery pastries with a chewy jam filling.

  Popiah Spring rolls without the crunch, stuffed with shredded veggies, prawns, garlic and more.

  Watermelon slushies Whole watermelons are punctured with two big holes, the contents mushed up with an electric whisk and ice added for a portable refresher.

  5Jalan Merdeka & Around

  Restaurants in the shopping mall district are mostly unexciting chains, but a lively food court just west of Mahkota Pde serves Malay and Chinese fare. East of the centre, Medan Portugis (Portuguese Sq) has food stalls serving seafood dishes beside the sea.

  Restoran Nyonya SuanMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-286 4252; 1336D Jln Merdeka; mains RM17-30; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm)

  Fiery Peranakan specialities are served up at this large and pleasant restaurant, with ikan gerang asam (fish in a spicy tamarind sauce) and chicken rendang the stand-out dishes. A couple of swaying lanterns and some stained-glass panelling give you something to admire while awaiting your towering cendol (shaved-ice dessert).

  Restoran de LisbonPORTUGUESE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Medan Portugis; mains RM16-50; h1pm-midnight)

  The main reason to head to the Portuguese Sq is the food that you can enjoy at outdoor tables with a sea view. This laid-back outlet to the rear of the complex, away from the throng of touts in the car park, serves delicious local specialities: chilli crab (RM50 for two crabs) or Eurasian chicken debal ('devil's curry', from RM25).

  5Little India to Bukit China

  oSelvamINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 9223; 2 Jln Temenggong; mains RM5-11; h7am-10pm; Wv)

  This classic banana-leaf restaurant is excellent value, with efficient and amiable staff. Generous servings of aromatic chicken biryani are eclipsed by the vegetarian offerings, in particular the Friday-afternoon veggie special.

  oBulldogMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-303 3970; www.facebook.com/bulldogmalacca; 145 Jln Bendahara; mains RM10-15; h11.30am-2pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat)

  Specialising in Peranakan cuisine, Bulldog is a contemporary, monochrome-decorated space that serves its excellent food with a spicy edge that's very appealing. Don't miss the chilli-paste-slavered aubergine or the otak otak (fish-paste patties). Live music sets toes tapping Friday and Saturday night from 9.30pm.

  13 Hibiscus Vintage Art CafeMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-1073 1188; www.facebook.com/13hibiscus; 13 Jln Bunga Raya; mains RM7; h9am-5pm Sat & Sun; W)

  For its quirky retro decor alone, which includes the giant letters from an old cinema hung on the wall plus engaging street art, this weekend-only cafe is well worth a visit. It serves simple dishes such as nasi lemak (rice boiled in coconut milk, served with fried ikan bilis, peanuts and a curry dish) and nonya laksa (noodles in spicy coconut broth).

  Upstairs is a wonderful rental apartment sleeping up to five people (weekdays/weekends RM380/550); it also has another very cute two-person apartment (weekdays/weekends RM280/400) for rent nearby with the perfect view over the Sungai Melaka.

  Capitol SatayMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 5508; 41 Lg Bukit China; sticks from RM1.10-10; h4pm-midnight Wed-Mon; v)

  Famous for its satay celup (a Melaka adaptation of steamboat with satay sauce), this place is usually packed and is one of the cheapest outfits in town. Stainless-steel tables have bubbling vats of soup in the middle where you dunk skewers of
okra stuffed with tofu, sausages, chicken, prawns, bok choy and the like.

  Purple Cane Tea RestaurantCHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 3090; www.tearestaurant.com.my; Lot 1F-06 Level 1, The Shore Shopping Gallery, 193 Pinggiran @ Sungai Melaka, Jln Persisiran Bunga Raya; meals RM27; h10am-10pm)

  Many of the dishes involve tea at this pleasant restaurant, one of the more interesting and, crucially, local chains in the new Shore shopping mall. The four-course set meal deals are a steal. It also sells all its teas and snacks in nice packaging, making it a good place for gifts.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Unlike much of Malaysia, there is no shortage of spots to cool down with a beer in Melaka City. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, Jonker Walk Night Market in Chinatown closes Jln Heng Lekir to traffic and the handful of bars along the lane become a mini street party with live music and tables spilling beyond the sidewalks. Karaoke enthusiasts take over the stage at the apex of Jln Hang Jebat and Jln Tokong.

  oDaily FixCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 4858; www.facebook.com/thedailyfixcafe; 55 Jln Hang Jebat; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30 Sat & Sun)