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  Nonguests can call ahead for delicious organic lunches (Dh176), and nap in hammocks by goldfish ponds afterwards.

  8Getting There & Away

  Turn left off the main road 4km past Agdz, then 2km east up a piste. There's no reliable public transport here.

  Timidarte

  If you want to (all together now) rock the kasbahs, turn west off N9 to check out prime specimens in Timidarte village. The finest example dates from the 17th century, recently converted by Timidarte’s tourism association into an authentic kasbah guesthouse, Kasbah Timidarte.

  4Sleeping

  Kasbah TimidarteHERITAGE HOTEL€

  (%0668 68 00 47; www.kasbahtimidarte.com; s/d incl half-board Dh300/460, with shared bathroom Dh260/320)

  Live much like kasbah inhabitants have for centuries. Seven mudbrick rooms are arranged around a central light well, with palm-frond mats and mattresses on floors. Instead of TV, there’s socialising under the stars on the roof terrace, next to a Berber bread oven. It’s 1km east of Rte de Zagora, 15km south of Agdz.

  Some improvements have been made since the 17th century – there’s electric light for reading, and several rooms have en suites. Timidarte’s tourism association members have taken to the task of cooking for guests with gusto, and home-style Berber meals are a point of pride.

  7Shopping

  Timarine TijaraFOOD

  (%0661 91 32 25; hby appointment)

  Timidarte is becoming a magnet for foodies with this artisan producer of date jam and syrup – call ahead for tastings and bargain purchases (Dh15 to Dh40).

  Zagora زاكورة

  Pop 36,000

  The original, iconic ‘Tombouctou, 52 jours’ (Timbuktu, 52 days) sign, featuring a nomad with a smirking camel, may have been swept away in an inexplicable government beautification scheme, but Zagora’s fame as a desert outpost remains indelible. The Saadians launched their expedition to conquer Timbuktu here in 1591, and desert caravans passing through Zagora gave this isolated spot cosmopolitan character. These days Zagora remains a trading post and meeting place, hosting a regional souq on Wednesday and Sunday and putting on a variety of lively festivals.

  Zagora

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  1Caravane Desert et MontagneA2

  2Caravane du SudB3

  3Caravane Hamada DrâaA2

  4Sleeping

  4Auberge Restaurant Chez AliA2

  5Camping Oasis PalmierB2

  6Hotel la Fibule du DraaB3

  7La Petite KasbahB3

  8Riad Dar SofianB2

  9Riad Soleil du MondeB3

  10Villa ZagoraB3

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  11African BarB3

  8Information

  12Banque PopulaireA2

  13BMCEA1

  14Pharmacy ZagoraA2

  Transport

  15Bus StationA1

  16CTM Bus StationA2

  Grands TaxisA1

  17SupratoursA2

  1Sights

  oMusée des Arts et Traditions de la Valleé du DrâaMUSEUM

  (%0667 69 06 02; Kasbah de Tissergat; Dh25; h8.30am-7pm)

  Eight kilometres north of town, below a spectacular view point over the palmeraie, follow ‘Musée’ signs to a triple-storey mudbrick home that houses this fascinating desert-culture museum. In the tea salon, you’ll find key equipment for desert entertaining c 1930: a vintage ham radio, a gramophone, and tea glasses believed to shatter on contact with poison.

  Artifacts are tagged with insightful explanations of their origins and purpose in French and English – very helpful for explaining otherwise mysterious tattooing implements, the intriguing birthing room and markedly different wedding garments from five local tribes. The people behind the museum also run a recommended guesthouse next door.

  AmezrouAREA

  Zagora’s desert-crossroads culture can be glimpsed in the adjacent village (south of downtown Zagora, across the Oued Drâa), where artisans in the historic mellah work good-luck charms from African, Berber, Jewish and Muslim traditions into their designs. In the 1930s, Amezrou had some 400 Jewish households, but almost all had left town by the 1960s.

  Ask an elderly resident to point you towards the tiny synagogue. The family opposite will let you into the prayer room (Dh20 tip customary).

  Jebel ZagoraMOUNTAIN

  This spectacular mountain rises over the Oued Drâa – worth climbing for the views, provided you have stamina, water and sunblock and set off in the early morning. The round trip to Jebel Zagora takes about three hours on foot, or 45 minutes by car along the piste to the right beyond Camping de la Montagne. Halfway up are the faint ruins of an 11th-century Almoravid fortress, but the military installation at the summit is off-limits.

  2Activities

  Nearly every tourist in Zagora is heading for the Sahara and many plan their trips here. That said, the desert gateway of M'Hamid is still a three-hour drive further south with the undulating dunes of Erg Chigaga an additional (and expensive) 56km off-road southwest from M'Hamid. When planning trips with local operators make sure you know where your trip is headed. The closest dunes to Zagora are Erg Nakhla (12km northeast of town), Tinfou (25km south beside the N9), El Messouira and Erg Lihoudi (both approximately 90km south near M'Hamid).

  For dromedary rides all-inclusive prices range from Dh350 to Dh600, depending on the campsite and the size of the group.

  TTours

  Wild MoroccoTOURS

  (%0655 77 81 73; www.wildmorocco.com)

  This Berber-British partnership run by M'Hamid native Yahya and corporate-escapee Emily distinguishes itself by its professionalism and passion. Abandoning the nomadic life after the damming of the Drâa made it unfeasible, Yahya put his immense knowledge of the desert, its customs, flora and fauna, to service in these well-planned itineraries.

  Adventurers can join three- to six-day desert treks following nomadic migration routes, musicians find guitars conjured from neighbours for impromptu desert jam sessions, and budding anthropologists break bread with Drâa Valley families or join Harratin inhabitants in M'Hamid's old ksar for tea and local gossip. Larger excursions combining Altas mountain trekking, the gorges and desert tours are also possible, as are desert trips to Erg Chebbi.

  Caravane Desert et MontagneOUTDOORS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0611 15 37 66; www.caravanedesertetmontagne.com; 112 Blvd Mohammed V)

  Partners with local nomads to create adventures off the beaten camel track for individuals and small groups.

  Caravane du SudOUTDOORS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 75 69; www.caravanedusud.com; Amezrou; h8am-7pm)

  Three- to 14-day camel treks, 4WD circuits and a three-day round-trip to Erg Chigaga (Dh1900). It also offers cheaper departures from M'Hamid. You'll find it on the roundabout in Amezrou.

  Caravane Hamada DrâaOUTDOORS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 32 81 06; www.hamadadraa.com; Blvd Mohammed V)

  Treks to nomadic camps by licensed English-speaking guides and native nomad Youssef M’Hidi.

  zFestivals & Events

  Moussem of Sufi Moulay Abdelkader JilaliRELIGIOUS

  This moussem, which takes place at the same time as Moulid an-Nabi, is the Drâa's biggest shindig. Members of the Sufi Jilala brotherhood make a pilgrimage to Zagora to pay their respects, and you may hear their hypnotic music of praise and celebration with the bendir (hand-held drum).

  4Sleeping

  oAuberge Restaurant Chez AliINN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 62 58; http://chezali.net; Ave de l’Atlas Zaouiate El Baraka; d incl breakfast Dh200-300, without bathroom Dh70-90; paWs)

  The peacocks stalking the pool can’t be bothered, but otherwise the welcome here is enthusiastic. Sky-lit upstairs rooms have simple pine furnishings, bathrooms and air-con, and ‘traditional’ rooms have mattresses on carpets and shared bathrooms. Enjoy fantastic Berber meals (Dh100) and overnight trips run by English-speaking guides Mohamed and Yusuf.

  La
Petite KasbahGUESTHOUSE€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 80 43; www.hotelzagora.com; Amezrou; r per person incl breakfast/half-board Dh175/275; pW)S

  Expect a warm welcome and a fresh glass of mint tea when you arrive at La Petite Kasbah. Originally the family home of Brahim Badri, the mini kasbah now has five rooms around a flower-filled courtyard, a cushion-strewn tea salon and a terrace overlooking the Amezrou palmeraie.

  Camping Oasis PalmierCAMPGROUND€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0613 98 52 31; [email protected]; Rte de Nakhla; camping per person Dh20, per Berber tent Dh15-30, per car Dh15, campervans Dh30; pW)

  Located just north of Amezrou, this campsite has a mixture of palm-shaded pitches and Berber tents. It also has a cafe, free wi-fi, hot showers (Dh10) and electric hook-ups (Dh20), and it'll even deliver fresh bread to your door.

  Kasbah ZiwanaGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0667 69 06 02; www.kasbah-ziwana-zagora.com; s/d incl half-board Dh300/600; a)

  Next to the Musée des Arts in Tissergat, 8km north of Zagora, the Kasbah Ziwana is made of native materials, and has attractively furnished rooms. Relax in the peaceful inner courtyard or on the roof terrace, and get loads of local insight from the kindhearted host Mustapha, a desert guide with many years of experience.

  Riad Soleil du MondeGUESTHOUSE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 68 71 31; [email protected]; d Dh330-540; pWs)

  Tucked down a narrow dirt road near Amezrou, this four-room guesthouse has beautifully set rooms, with striking coloured glass light fixtures, pisé walls and decorative moulding. The pool, fringed by towering date palms and pomegranate trees, makes a fine retreat on hot days. The warm welcome and idyllic location in the palmeraie adds to the appeal.

  Villa ZagoraGUESTHOUSE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 60 93; www.mavillaausahara.com; Rte de Nakhla, Amezrou; d incl breakfast Dh540-740, ste Dh740-950, Berber tent per person Dh190; aWs)

  Light, breezy and naturally charming, this converted country home makes desert living look easy. French doors reveal plush Moroccan carpets, soaring ceilings, and an eclectic art collection, including Zagora-inspired abstracts. Staff fuss over you like Moroccan relations you never knew you had, and decadent meals (around Dh160) feature oasis-fresh ingredients.

  Riad de RêveGUESTHOUSE€€

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0677 19 13 37; www.facebook.com/riaddereve; 353 Hay Moulay Rachid; s/d/ste incl half-board Dh370/560/1100; aW)

  Escape the typical tourist accommodation and spend a night at Abdesalem's intimate riad home, where he'll whip up tasty traditional dishes and a variety of home-baked breads. With a nomadic background and years of experience working in Switzerland, your host is a master of hospitality and a knowledgeable guide to local history and folklore and the surrounding desert.

  oRiad Dar SofianGUESTHOUSE€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 73 19; www.riaddarsofian.com; Rte de Nakhla, Amezrou; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh680/880/1100, tents Dh220; paWs)

  Setting new standards in Zagora, Dar Sofian is a stunning desert oasis. The fabulous pisé edifice was constructed by a team from Skoura, while Fassi craftsmen executed the acres of tilework inside. The decor is a successful take on contemporary Moroccan with a mix of modern beds and bathrooms, antique furnishings and traditional detailing.

  5Eating & Drinking

  Hotels provide set meals (Dh100 to Dh150) to guests and nonguests by prior reservation. Auberge Restaurant Chez Ali is a standout for quality and freshness, and you can join off-duty desert guides at La Rose des Sables (%0524 84 72 74; Ave Allal Ben Abdallah; meals Dh40-60). Cafes and laterie (juice shops) cluster around the intersection of Boulevard Mohammed V and Ave Allal Ben Abdallah and serve a good selection of staples like roast chicken, tajine and pizza for Dh20 to Dh35.

  Picnic ingredients can be found at the supermarket at the northern end of town (no alcohol) and a bakery on Mohammed V.

  For a stiff drink, head to the garden bar at La F ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 73 18; Amezrou; s/d/tr incl breakfast from Dh400/540/700; pWs)ibule du Draa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 73 18; Amezrou; s/d/tr incl breakfast from Dh400/540/700; pWs) or the African Bar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 83 88; www.riadlamane.com; Amezrou) at Riad Lamane.

  8Information

  Most hotels offer wi-fi and there are several internet cafes along Blvd Mohammed V and Ave Allal Ben Abdallah (Dh10 per hour).

  Banque Populaire ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V) Stock up on cash at one of the last ATMs you’ll find before you hit the Sahara.

  BMCE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V) ATM.

  Pharmacy Zagora ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 71 95; Blvd Mohammed V; h8.30am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Zagora has a small airport, southwest of town off the N12, that has two weekly flights (Monday and Wednesday) from Casablanca with Royal Air Maroc (www.royalairmaroc.com).

  Bus

  The CTM bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 73 27; Blvd Mohammed V) is at the southwestern end of Mohammed V, while the local bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V) is beside the mosque, where grands taxis also depart. Supratours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 84 76 88; Blvd Mohammed V), near the Banque Populaire, offers a daily 6am bus to Marrakesh (Dh135, 7½ hours) and Ouarzazate (Dh50, 2¾ hours). There is also a daily CTM bus to M'Hamid (Dh35, 2¾ hours) and three daily CTM buses to Ouarzazate (Dh55, three hours), two of which continue to Marrakesh (Dh135, 8½ hours).

  Other companies, which are based at the local bus station, have at least one run a day to Marrakesh (Dh120) and Ouarzazate (Dh55, three hours). There are buses to Rissani (Dh100, six hours) via N’Kob (Dh20, two hours) and Tazzarine (Dh35, 2½ hours) three times a week. A bus passes through Zagora to M’Hamid (Dh35, three hours) in the morning. More frequent minibuses run to M’Hamid (Dh30) throughout the day when full.

  Taxi

  Grands taxis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V) can be found in the centre of town beside the new mosque. They are more regular early in the morning. Destinations include Tamegroute (Dh10, 20 minutes), Agdz (Dh35, 1½ hours), Ouarzazate (Dh80, three hours), M’Hamid (Dh35, 1½ hours) and N’Kob (Dh50 to Dh60, 1½ hours).

  Tamegroute تامكروت

  Stressed out? You’ve come to the right place: Tamegroute’s Zawiya Nassiriyya is said to cure anxiety and high blood pressure, thanks to the post-mortem calming influence of Sidi Mohammed ben Nassir – founder of the influential and learned Nassiri brotherhood, who were famed for their ability in settling Drâa Valley disputes in the 17th century. The zawiya is still a place of pilgrimage for the sick and a working Quranic school. Bibliophiles should plan desert trips around visits to the zawiya’s library of ancient illuminated texts or try to coincide with the annual moussem (12 to 22 November).

  Besides miracle cures, Tamegroute is known for its labyrinth of ksour, which you can explore with a local guide or by yourself to test your internal compass. Tamegroute also has a Saturday souq.

  1Sights

  oCooperative des PotiersGALLERY

  (h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)

  Oxidised copper yields the distinctive ‘Tamegroute green’ glaze used on the local pottery, which originated when the Nassiri brotherhood invited craftsmen from Fez to settle in the village. Two families remain, turning out iridescent rustic bowls, stamped tiles and elegant platters. Heading south, you'll find it on your left as you leave the village.

  Zawiya NassiriyyaISLAMIC SITE

  (suggested donation Dh20; hmorning & late afternoon Sat-Thu)

  Although non-Muslims can’t visit Sidi ben Nassir’s green-roofed mausoleum, anyone can visit the library inside the adjacent medersa for Quranic scholars. Among the 4000 books on these glassed-in shelves are ancient medical, mathematics, algebra and law texts, in addition to splendid 13th-century Qurans written on gazelle hide. You'll find it through an arch in the northwest corner of the main square.

  QUICK GETAWAY: TINFOU DUNES

 
M'Hamid's grand Erg Chigaga or the great inland sea of dunes in Merzouga can make this small patch of two to three dunes seem like a child's sandbox by comparison. Around 8km south of Tamegroute, you’ll spot them marooned by the road on your left. On busy days it can feel like a playground here, but it’s still fun to climb and run down the big dunes.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Auberge-Restaurant-Camping-Jnane Dar DiafaGUESTHOUSE€

  (%0661 34 81 49; www.jnanedar.ch; s/d Dh300/380, without bathroom from Dh180/220, all incl breakfast)

  In this breezy garden-gazebo restaurant, enjoy leisurely lunches made with vegetables grown on the premises. Scuffed but winsome pisé-walled guest rooms overlook the garden, some featuring air-con, mosquito nets over beds, and star-patterned walls.

  Tamegroute to M’Hamid

  From Tamgroute the road south narrows to a single lane highway (being widened at the time of research) and takes you through a dauntingly bleak landscape of sun-scorched rubble, until the road ascends up and over Tizi Beni Selmane pass. Midway, the village of Tagounite has petrol and several cafes. It's also a jumping-off point for the El Mesouira and Erg Lihoudi dunes, which lie southwest of Tagounite.