Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  Darren Teoh heads a team of exciting young chefs at this innovative restaurant based at the KDU University College in Shah Alam. It's worth making the journey out here to taste the impeccably presented fine-dining dishes with local flashes, such as cured mackerel with local flowers, braised aubergine with jackfruit seeds, and gula melaka (palm sugar) marquise. Book in advance.

  The sublime mango curry mousse is based on Teoh's grandmother's recipe and made using mangoes from the chef's own garden.

  Get a taxi from Batu Tiga.

  5Klang

  oYap KeeMALAYSIAN$

  (20 Jln Besar; mains RM7.50; h10.30am-4pm)

  This banana-leaf restaurant in an old shophouse two blocks to the right as you come out of the station usually has just a couple of choices available. But go with what's on offer and you won't regret it; the expert cooking of simple curry and rice meals is what gives Klang its reputation as a foodie town.

  Sri Barathan Matha VilasINDIAN$

  (34-36 Jln Tengku Kelana; mains RM6-10; h7am-10.30pm)

  It’s hard to resist a bowl of this restaurant’s signature dish of spicy mee goreng (fried noodles). The chef prepares them in a giant wok beside the entrance.

  Seng Huat Bak Kut TehMALAYSIAN$$

  (%012-309 8303; http://senghuatbakkutteh.com/; 9 Jln Besar; mains RM11-20; h7.30am-noon & 5.30-8.30pm; v)

  Klang is famous for bak kut teh (pork stew made by simmering ribs in a broth of herbs and spices). If you like yours fragrant but not overpowering, sample it at Seng Huat, two blocks to the right as you exit the train station, beneath Klang Bridge. Get here early before the meat sells out.

  oSeraph AwakenCOFFEE

  (www.facebook.com/seraphawaken; 28 Jln Stesen 1; hnoon-7pm Mon & Thu-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

  Coffee-making is approached with scientific precision at Seraph Awaken, where owners Cheau See and Chun Hoong serve hand-brewed drip coffee from a counter of beakers and rubber tubes that wouldn't look out of place in a chemistry lab. The couple started out with a roadside coffee stall before moving into a beautiful, plant-filled kopitiam dating from 1928.

  Try the signature Hibiscus or Roselle coffees.

  7Shopping

  7Petaling Jaya

  Sunway PyramidMALL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-7494 3100; www.sunwaypyramid.com; skating rink admission incl skate hire Mon-Fri RM17, Sat & Sun RM22; hskating rink 9am-8pm; dSetia Jaya)

  The vast Sunway Pyramid mall is distinguished by its giant lion gateway, faux Egyptian walls and crowning pyramid. Inside is a skating rink as well as a bowling alley, a multiplex cinema and the usual plethora of shops and dining outlets.

  Take a taxi from Setia Jaya.

  CurveMALL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-7710 6868; www.thecurve.com.my; 6 Jln PJU 7/3; h10am-10pm; mMutiara Damansara)

  This sprawling shopping complex has an Ikea, a Tesco and plenty more shops and restaurants. It's about 15km west of the centre in Petaling Jaya.

  Jaya OneMALL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://jayaone.com.my; 72A Jln Universiti; h10am-10pm; mAsia Jaya)

  Home to the performing arts centre PJ Live Arts and a branch of the cafe, bar and live-music venue the Bee, Jaya One also hosts Markets, a huge bazaar of more than 80 vendors selling new and old items as well as handicrafts, held once every three months.

  Take a taxi from Asia Jaya station.

  1 UtamaMALL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.1utama.com.my; 1 Lebuh Bandar Utama, Bandar Utama; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; mKelana Jaya)

  The main reason for visiting this mall is for its 30,000-sq-ft Secret Garden, one of the largest roof gardens in the world with more than 500 varieties of plants. There's also a mini-rainforest in the mall's atrium and the climbing centre Camp5.

  Take a taxi from Kelana Jaya.

  Amcorp MallMALL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/amcorpmallofficial; 18 Jln Persiaran Barat; h10am-10pm; mTaman Jaya)

  Amcorp might not fare well against the area's newer, shinier malls, but it's worth visiting at weekends for its popular flea market. Browse the stalls for secondhand clothes, antiques, old movie posters and other collectables every Saturday and Sunday.

  7Klang

  Ajuntha TextileFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  (%03-3371 7571; 20 Jln Tengku Kelana; h9am-10pm)

  Behind an elaborate carved wooden shopfront is this Indian textiles and jewellery emporium. Come here for silk scarves, saris, jewellery and gorgeous children's outfits.

  2Activities

  2Petaling Jaya

  Sunway LagoonAMUSEMENT PARK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5639 0182; http://sunwaylagoon.com; 3 Jln PJS, 11/11 Bandar Sunway; adult/child RM150/120; h10am-6pm; dSetia Jaya)

  Built on the site of a former tin mine and quarry, this multizone theme park has 80 attractions, including the world’s largest artificial surf beach and an array of water slides (don't miss riding a dinghy down into a giant funnel on the Vuvuzela). It's a great place to cool off on a hot, sticky day.

  Get a taxi from Setia Jaya.

  Camp5CLIMBING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-7726 0410; www.camp5.com; 5th fl, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama Damansara; day passes adult/child RM33/16, 1hr taster sessions incl equipment RM55; h2-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; mKelana Jaya)

  The 5th floor of the 1 Utama mall has been transformed into a state-of-the-art indoor climbing facility. One great advantage of climbing in this 24m-high space is that it's air-conditioned.

  Grab a taxi from Kelana Jaya.

  2Klang

  Royal Klang Heritage WalkWALKING

  (%03-5513 2000; www.tourismselangor.my; h10am-12.30pm Sat & Sun)F

  This free guided walk from Tourism Selangor meets at the Galeri Diraja Sultan Abdul Aziz every Saturday and Sunday at 10am and covers nine of the town's heritage sights.

  Putrajaya

  Explore

  An eye-catching array of monumental architecture amid lush, manicured greenery is on display in Putrajaya, 25km south of KL and 20km north of Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA). Covering 49.32 sq km of former rubber and oil-palm plantations, the federal government’s administrative hub (almost exclusively Muslim in population) was but a twinkle in the eye of its principal visionary – former prime minister Dr Mahathir – as late as the early 1990s.

  As a showcase of urban planning and vaulting architectural ambition, Putrajaya is impressive, but it’s still a long way off its envisioned population of over 300,000 and a strange place to visit. At its heart is a 6-sq-km artificial lake fringed by landscaped parks and an eclectic mix of buildings and bridges, best viewed when illuminated at night.

  The Best...

  ALakeside Mosque Putra Mosque

  ABotanical Garden Taman Botani

  APlace to Eat Alamanda

  Top Tip

  Just over 97% of Putrajaya’s population is Muslim – something to be aware of when choosing how to dress and behave while visiting the city’s mosques.

  Getting There & Away

  ATrain KLIA transit trains from KL Sentral (one way RM14, 20 minutes) and KLIA (one way RM9.40, 18 minutes) stop at Putrajaya Sentral (Putrajaya & Cyberjaya).

  Getting Around

  ABus & taxi The 502 bus runs from the train station to close to Dataran Putra. A taxi is RM15.

  AElectric vehicles & bicycles Both can be hired from the Tourist Information Booth. The two-seater electric cars are RM100 per hour. At weekends bicycles are also available to rent (RM6 per hour).

  Need to Know

  A Area Code 03

  ALocation 25km south of KL and 20km north of KLIA

  A Tourist Information Booth ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dataran Putra; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm, closed 12.45-2.45pm Fri)

  1Sights

  Monumental buildings designed in an array of architectural styles line the main boulevard of Persiaran Perdana, which runs from the circular Dataran Putra (Putra Sq) to the elevated, spaceship-like Putrajaya Convention Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8887 6000; Presint 5), w
orth visiting for the views. In between, check out the Mogul-esque Istana Kehakiman (Palace of Justice; GOOGLE MAP ; Persiaran Perdana); the striking modernist Islamic gateway (composed of a lattice of steel blades) fronting the Kompleks Perdadanan Putrajaya (Putrajaya Corporation Complex; GOOGLE MAP ; Persiaran Perdana); and the Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin Mosque (Iron Mosque; GOOGLE MAP ), which can be seen through the gateway across the Kiblat Walk skyway.

  On opposite edges of Dataran Putra are Perdana Putra, housing the offices of the prime minister, and the handsome Putra Mosque ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dataran Putra, Presint 1; h9am-12.30pm, 2-4pm & 5.30-6pm Sat-Thu, 3-4pm & 5.30-6pm Fri), which has space for 15,000 worshippers and an ornate pink-and-white-patterned dome, influenced by Safavid architecture from Iran. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times.

  There are nine bridges in Putrajaya, all in different styles. The longest, at 435m, is the Putra Bridge ( GOOGLE MAP ), which mimics the Khaju Bridge in Esfahan, Iran. Also worthy of a photo is the futuristic, sail-like Seri Wawasan Bridge ( GOOGLE MAP ) connecting Precinct 2 and 8.

  The bridges and buildings look their best viewed from Putrajaya Lake.

  Taman BotaniGARDENS

  (Botanical Gardens; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8888 9090; Presint 1; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat-Thu, 9am-noon & 3-6pm Fri)F

  This 93-hectare site just north of town features attractive tropical gardens, a visitor centre, a lakeside restaurant and a beautifully tiled Moroccan Pavilion (admission adult/child RM3/1). A tourist tram (RM4) trundles between the flower beds and trestles, and you can hire bicycles (RM4 per hour). You’ll need to take a taxi to get here.

  Taman WetlandPARK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8887 7773; Presint 13; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat & Sun)

  A short taxi ride from Dataran Putra is this serene, contemplative space with peaceful nature trails, aquatic animals and waterbirds, fluttering butterflies and picnic tables overlooking the lake. Canoes, kayaks and bikes can be rented at the boathouse (from 9am to 7pm), which is about 1km from the Nature Interpretative Centre (open 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday) by road or walkway.

  China-Malaysia Friendship GardenGARDENS

  (Anjung Floria; GOOGLE MAP ; Precinct 4)F

  It's worth dropping by this peaceful Chinese-style garden, located next to the Seri Saujana Bridge in Precinct 4. The design of the garden incorporates elements of Lingnan architecture, a style originating in Guangdong and nearby provinces of China, and includes a pretty pagoda, rockery and pond. Plants are labelled in English.

  5Eating

  Selera PutraFOOD HALL$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; mains RM7-10; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun)

  Head to this food court beneath Dataran Putra and enjoy the lakeside view while enjoying a wide range of inexpensive Malaysian dishes.

  AlamandaFOOD HALL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.alamanda.com.my; Jln Alamanda, Presint 1; meals RM20; h10am-10pm)

  Putrajaya’s shopping mall is home to several restaurants as well as an excellent food court where you can join the local bureaucrats for a meal. You’ll need to take a taxi or your own wheels to get here.

  SLEEPING IN PUTRAJAYA

  Putrajaya Shangri-laHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8887 8888; www.shangri-la.com; Taman Putra Perdana, Presint 1; d from RM320; aiWs)

  This elegant hotel has spacious rooms with Malay-style wooden furnishings and great hillside views across to Putrajaya Lake. Good-value weekend packages are available, and there are frequent online promotions.

  Pullman Putrajaya LakesideRESORT$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8890 0000; www.pullmanputrajaya.com; 2 Jln P5/5, Presint 5; d from RM230; aiWs)

  Close to the Convention Centre and beside Putrajaya Lake, this large resort complex incorporates traditional Malaysian architectural elements into its design. The best rooms are the ones with balconies and lake views. Resort facilities include a good-sized pool and an al fresco seafood restaurant built over the lake.

  2Activities

  Cruise Tasik PutrajayaBOATING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8888 5539; www.cruisetasikputrajaya.com; adult/child Perahu Dondang Sayang boat RM42/27, Belimbing cruise RM53/37; h10am-7.15pm Mon-Fri, to 9.30pm Sat & Sun)

  Located just beneath Dataran Putra underneath Putra Bridge, this outfit offers two basic options for cruising Putrajaya Lake: the gondola-like Perahu Dondang Sayang boats, which depart any time for a 25-minute trip, and a 45-minute air-con cruise on the Belimbing boat, which leaves about every hour.

  There are also shorter early-bird air-conditioned cruises before 1pm (25 minutes in duration).

  Putrajaya SightseeingTOURS

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8890 4788; Putrajaya Sentral; adult/child RM20/10; h3pm Fri, 11am & 1pm Sat-Thu)

  These tours stop at 12 sights in town. Tickets can be purchased on the spot (just after you exit the platform area) but call ahead to confirm departure times as they are changeable.

  Skyrides BalloonBALLOONING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.skyridesputrajaya.com; Sky Rides Festival Park, Jln P2M, Presint 2; 15-min rides per person RM73; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

  There are great views of Putrajaya and the lake from this tethered helium balloon located near the Alaf Monument.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  HORSE & AUTO RACING

  Selangor Turf ClubHORSE RACING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9058 3888; www.selangorturfclub.com; Jln Kuda Emas, Sungai Besi; RM6; hrace days 6.30-10.30pm Wed & Fri, 1.30-6pm Sat & Sun; mSungai Besi)

  See the website for the fixtures schedule for a total of 30 race days spread throughout the year. The best views of the track are from the grandstand, but standing by the finish line as the horses fly by offers the biggest thrills.

  A two-way shuttle bus runs between the track and both Serdang KTM station and Sungai Besi LRT station.

  Sepang International CircuitSPECTATOR SPORT

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8778 2222; www.sepangcircuit.com)

  The Sepang Circuit, 65km south of KL, is where Formula One holds the Malaysian Grand Prix. Tickets go for as little as RM93, though if you want to be in the main grandstand they start from RM180. During the three days of the Grand Prix, shuttle buses run from KLCC, KL Sentral and KLIA2 to the track.

  Other car and motorcycle races are held here throughout the year – check the website for details. On weekdays, call ahead to book a tour of the facilities, including a run through the auto museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jmm.gov.my; Sepang International Circuit, Jln Pekeliling; circuit tours adult/child RM53/26.50; h9am-6pm).

  4Sleeping

  KLites' love of brands is reflected in the city's many international hotel chains. You can often grab great online deals for top-end accommodation, and there are also some excellent new boutique-style midrange options. Budget sleeps are plentiful, too, but the best places fill up quickly, so book ahead – especially over public holidays.

  Book Your Stay Online

  For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

  Hostels & Guesthouses

  Kuala Lumpur has plenty of inexpensive hostels and guesthouses. Most offer dorm beds as well as basic rooms with shared or private bathrooms. Even the cheapest accommodation usually has air-con; fan-only rooms are rare.

  If your budget is really tight, there are several cramped and musty hostels appealing only for their rock-bottom rates. For those who are more flush, however, there are some very appealing 'flashpacker' hostels and guesthouses. A preferable option to zero-personality budget business hotels, these offer spacious, comfy dorms and private rooms with bells and whistles that are several steps up from the norm in quality.

  Hotels

  As a rule, the cheapest budget hotels offer poky box rooms, often with thin plywood partition walls and no windows; there may be a choice of private or shared bathrooms. In cheaper hotels, ‘single’
normally means one double bed, and ‘double’ means two double beds. To aid ventilation, the walls of cheaper rooms may not meet the ceiling, which is terrible for acoustics and privacy – bring earplugs.

  At midrange hotels air-con is standard, and rooms typically come with TVs, phones, proper wardrobes and private bathrooms. Many midrange hotels also have restaurants, business centres and swimming pools. Some boutique properties offer stylish rooms for very reasonable rates.

  With stiff competition at the top end of the market, KL's best hotels pull out all the stops. Rooms have every conceivable amenity, including fast wi-fi, safes, minibars, slippers and robes, and even prayer mats for Muslim guests. Look online for discount rates and also for news about several pending international openings, including the Four Seasons and the Banyan Tree.

  Homestays

  Staying with a Malaysian family in KL is possible, although few homestays will be centrally located. Contact local offices of Tourism Malaysia (www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my) for more information and also check sites such as iBilik (www.ibilik.my) and Asia Homestay (asiahomestay.com).