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  If you’re heading to the desert, Aït Benhaddou is a worthy detour for a tasty lunch and a stroll through the narrow lanes. From the Hôtel la Kasbah, head down past the souvenir stalls to the ksar across the parched Oued Ounilla. But where are all the people? The few remaining residents make a few dirham selling souvenirs, carpets and other wares through former homes. One family also operates a small one-room 'museum' (Dh10), with a dusty collection of old door latches, swords, baskets and satchels (plus a vintage record player). Wind your way through winding lanes up to a ruined agadir with magnificent views of the surrounding palmeraie and unforgiving hammada.

  4Sleeping

  Kasbah du JardinHOTEL€

  (%0524 88 80 19; www.kasbahdujardin.com; campsite Dh50-70, d Dh250-400; aWs)

  Near the western entrance to town, the friendly Kasbah du Jardin has decent, nicely equipped rooms set around a sparkling pool – book an upstairs one for better views. You can also pitch a tent here, but there's not much shade.

  Etoile Filante d’OrGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0524 890322; www.etoilefilantedor.com; d incl breakfast from €35; aW)

  Moonlit desert nights on the Etoile’s roof terrace lure guests out of 17 spacious rooms for movie-script-inspiring ksar views. Guest rooms feature traditional touches such as tataoui ceilings and Berber blankets. The guesthouse also has an inviting restaurant where you can enjoy Moroccan and European fare (three-course dinner Dh100), and a full bar. Nadia, the welcoming host, can arrange camel rides, mountain biking and other excursions.

  Dar L'HajaGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0652 03 38 25; www.elhaja-aitbenhaddou.com; s/d Dh350/600)

  Fuel those Lawrence of Arabia fantasies by overnighting inside the ksar. Set along the steps leading through the old fortified village, this guesthouse offers amazing views from the terrace, and the comfortably furnished rooms are nicely maintained.

  oKasbah EllouzeHERITAGE HOTEL€€€

  (%0524 89 04 59; www.kasbahellouze.com; Tamdaght; s/d/ste incl half-board Dh750/945/1365; aWs)

  Located 6km north of Aït Benhaddou in the village of Tamdaght, this pisé guesthouse blends in with the adjacent kasbah and makes for a fantastic retreat. The best rooms have orchard views (luz means almonds), especially stylish doubles by the heated pool.

  Guests gather in the kitchen to learn to make local bread, for aperitifs and wi-fi in the jazz salon, and for watercolour-painting excursions into the Ounilla and Drâa Valleys.

  5Eating

  Chez BrahimMOROCCAN€€

  (%0671 81 63 12; meals Dh100; h10am-9pm; W)

  Sure, there are other tajines in town, but only Brahim’s improve international relations: the chef-owner has a letter from Hilary Rodham Clinton thanking him for a meal in her First Lady days. The set menu includes salads, tajine and dessert in a pisé-walled salon with ksar views.

  The same family also offers 10 pleasantly set rooms (doubles around Dh300) with fine views.

  Auberge Cafe-Restaurant BilalMOROCCAN€

  (%0668 24 83 70; mains Dh30-60; h10am-9pm; W)

  For lunch or tea with a magnificent view, pull up a patio chair and gaze at Aït Benhaddou across the way. À la carte options include omelettes, couscous and kebabs.

  8Getting There & Away

  To get here from Ouarzazate take the main road towards Marrakesh to the signposted turn-off (22km); Aït Benhaddou is another 9km down a bitumen road. Cycling from Ouarzazate takes three hours.

  Grands taxis run from outside Ouarzazate bus station when full (Dh20 per person) and from the turn-off (around Dh5 per person or Dh30 for the whole vehicle). Minibuses run from Tamdaght to Ouarzazate in the morning when full.

  Ouarzazate ورزازت

  Pop 62,000

  Strategically located Ouarzazate (war-zazat) has gotten by largely on its wits instead of its looks. For centuries, people from the Atlas, Drâa and Dadès Valleys converged to do business at Ouarzazate’s sprawling Taourirt Kasbah, and a modern garrison town was established here in the 1920s to oversee France’s colonial interests. The movie business gradually took off in Ouarzazate after the French protectorate left in the 1950s, and ‘Ouallywood’ movie studios have built quite a resume providing convincingly exotic backdrops for movies supposedly set in Tibet, ancient Rome, Somalia and Egypt.

  Since King Mohammed VI started visiting here and fixing up the roads, Ouarzazate has been developing quickly with vast new residential areas marked out to the south of town along with new condo-hotel complexes, a spacious pedestrian plaza and well-stocked supermarkets. With scores of agencies offering bikes, motorbikes and camels, this is an ideal launching pad for mountains, desert and gorges.

  Ouarzazate

  1Top Sights

  1Taourirt KasbahF3

  1Sights

  2Musée de CinemaF3

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  3Desert MajestyC3

  4Maroc ExperienceC3

  5Ouarzazate UnlimitedC3

  6Wilderness WheelsC3

  4Sleeping

  7Dar BerguiB2

  8Dar KamarE3

  9Hotel AmlalC3

  10Hotel AzoulA3

  11Le Petit RiadF1

  5Eating

  12Accord MajeurD3

  13Aux DelicesD3

  14Chez DimitriC3

  15Chez NabilD3

  16DouyriaF3

  17HabousC3

  18Jardin des ArômesC3

  19Restaurant 3 ThésD3

  20SupermarchéC3

  21SupermarketD3

  7Shopping

  22Complexe ArtisanalF3

  23Coopérative de TissageF3

  24Horizon ArtisanatE2

  8Information

  25Délégation Régionale du TourismeD3

  26Hôpital BougaferE4

  Transport

  27AvisB3

  28BudgetC3

  29CTM Bus StationD3

  30Desert EvasionC3

  ESON MarocC3

  31Grand Taxi StopA2

  32HertzC3

  33Main Bus StationA2

  34NationalA3

  35Royal Air MarocC3

  36Supratours Al HizamA2

  1Sights

  Ouarzazate is more of a staging post in most travel itineraries. If you're here for a day or two, it's worth hiring a taxi and taking a day trip to the nearby Fint Oasis or the Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi, a popular fishing and birding spot.

  From November to March, be prepared for the icy winds that can come whipping down from the High Atlas.

  oTaourirt KasbahMEDINA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; Dh20; h8am-6.30pm)

  Unlike other Glaoui kasbahs, Taourirt escaped ruin by moonlighting as a Hollywood backdrop (Sheltering Sky, Gladiator, Prince of Persia) and attracting the attention of Unesco, which has carefully restored small sections of the inner sanctum. Follow the maze of stairwells to the top floor, where you’ll find a prayer room through keyhole archways, traces of stucco and an original tataoui ceiling.

  Afterwards, wander through the village inside the kasbah walls, and you might also find deals on local crafts in backstreet shops.

  Atlas Film Corporation StudiosNOTABLE BUILDING

  (%0524 88 22 12, 0524 88 22 23; www.studiosatlas.com; adult/child Dh50/35; h8.15am-5.15pm Oct-Feb, to 6.45pm Mar-Sep)

  The first ‘Ouallywood’ studio, established by Mohammed Belghimi in 1983, displays sets and props from movies filmed here, including Jewel of the Nile, Kingdom of Heaven and Kundun. Guided tours run every 20 to 40 minutes and take you through some of the stages, sets and workshops incorporated in the 150 hectare site. And who knows, you may even get discovered by a talent scout.

  Buy tickets at Hotel Oscars next door. The studio is 5km west of town on the Marrakesh road and easily accessible on the green Lux bus (1 or 2, Dh3) that run along Ave Mohammed V.

  Musée de CinemaMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 89 03 46; Ave Mohammed V; adult/student Dh30/15; h8am-6pm)

  This small, dusty cinema mu
seum is housed in a former studio and exhibits a collection of old sets, props and cinematic equipment. Located opposite the Taourirt Kasbah, it is a convenient alternative if you can't get to the larger studios out of town.

  TTours

  Desert MajestyTOURS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 89 07 65; www.desertmajesty.com; 18 Pl al-Mouahidine; h9am-12.30pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat)

  A highly recommended local agency offering trips to the High Atlas and the desert. Airport pick-ups, multilingual guides originating in Erfoud, Merzouga, M'Hamid and Taouz, and reassuringly safe drivers are offered at competitive prices. Booking queries are handled by Felicity, who is fluent in English, German, French and Darija.

  Désert et MontagneTOURS

  (%0524 85 49 49; www.desert-montagne.ma; Dar Daïf, Douar Talmasla)

  Morocco’s first female mountain guide and her company organise trips to meet Berber families in the mountains, walking and 4WD trips in the desert and High Atlas, and longer trips following caravan routes. The agency operates out of Dar Daïf in Douar Talmasla. To reach it, continue south on the N9 and cross the Oued Ouarzazate, after which it is signposted to the left.

  Photo EmotionTOURS

  (%0642 98 89 47; www.rosafrei.com; 1-day workshops per person from Dh3200, 12-day tours €4360; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri)

  Swiss photographer and Ouarzazate resident Rosa Frei offers custom-made photography workshops and tours between September and May. Workshops focus on technique, composition, visual awareness and lighting, while tours range down the Drâa and Dadès Valleys to desert and kasbah retreats.

  Also possible are shorter trips to the film studios, Fint Oasis and the El Mansour Eddahabi dam. Workshops are in English or German.

  Ouarzazate UnlimitedTOURS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 89 06 41, 0661 43 97 77; www.ouarzazate-unlimited.com; 6 Rue du Maré)

  Delivers well-organised camel treks, 4WD desert tours and multi-city itineraries. Select accommodation includes midrange to top-end riads, kasbahs and camps.

  Wilderness WheelsADVENTURE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 81 28; www.wildernesswheels.com; 61 Hay al-Qods; 3-day/2-night excursions from €1150)

  Professionally guided motorbike tours are organised by this British-run company. Prices include overnight stays, complete riding gear and a support car for up to 20 bikes. Sell-out tours include the classic five-day Desert Tour.

  Maroc ExperienceTOURS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 33 63; www.marocexperiencetours.com; Pl al-Mouahidine; h9.15am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

  Italian-owned agency that offers a wide range of tours as well as plane tickets and other travel essentials.

  zFestivals & Events

  The moussem of Sidi Daoud is held in Ouarzazate each August.

  Marathon des SablesSPORTS

  (www.marathondessables.co.uk; hMar-Apr)

  This gruelling six-day, 250km desert ultramarathon changes course each year, and is revealed when runners converge in Ouarzazate.

  4Sleeping

  Camping-Bivouac La PalmeraieCAMPGROUND€

  (%0676 66 60 64; www.camping-ouarzazate.com; Douar Tajda, N 30°54.151, W 06°53.515; campsite for 2 people incl car/caravan Dh70/75, Berber tent/d incl breakfast Dh250/300, electricity Dh20; pW)

  Sleep in one of five cosy Berber tents or pitch your own beneath palms and fruit trees in the Ouarzazate palmeraie. There's also room for 15 camping cars, and meals are served in the shocking pink salon with its gauzy, tent-like roof. Canoeing excursions and half-day trips to the Fint Oasis are also possible.

  Hotel AmlalHOTEL€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 40 30; www.amlalhotel.com; 24-25 Rue du Maré; r Dh250, tr/q 300/400; paW)

  With its zigzagging tilework and cool terrazzo floors, Hotel Amlal is a decent budget option. Twenty-eight air-con rooms feature simple wood and wrought-iron furnishings, narrow beds and snug, tiled bathrooms. Although the place is showing its age, the location is excellent, with good dining options a short stroll from the hotel.

  oAuberge La Terrasse des DélicesGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0668 51 56 40; www.terrassedesdelices.com; Oasis de Flint; s/d/tr/q Dh300/450/675/800; as)

  It's well worth making the trip out to the Fint Oasis, 13km south of Ouarzazate, for a stay at this idyllic guesthouse. Rachid Azeouane, who hails from the nearby community (his grandfather was the village chief), offers a warm welcome, pleasant rooms set around an interior courtyard and a picturesque terrace in a good spot for gazing out across the oasis and the star-filled skies above.

  Rachid can arrange excursions (walks, birdwatching, 4WD trips), and you can come for lunch (sizzling fig tajines are outstanding) and a dip in the pool if you can't stay the night.

  oDar BerguiGUESTHOUSE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 77 27; www.darbergui.com; Sidi Hussain Ben Nacer; s/d incl breakfast Dh500/660; aWs)

  Located within walking distance of the Place al-Mouahidine, this sleek pisé villa with crenellated turrets is the home of Jean-Michel and Martine. The six villa bedrooms arranged around the courtyard swimming pool are simply and tastefully furnished and offer good value for money, especially considering the bountiful breakfast of pancakes, homemade yoghurt, fruit and cake.

  Le Petit RiadGUESTHOUSE€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 59 50; http://petitriad.com; Ave Moulay Abdellah, Hay el Wahda; r incl breakfast Dh750; aWs)

  For those craving light after the shady seclusion of Drâa Valley kasbahs, book a room at the family home of mountain guide Fatima Agoujil. The modern villa has seven large rooms with large picture windows overlooking the flowering gardens and the Atlas mountains. The decor is flamboyant (family artworks, plush quilts, dozens of scatter cushions) and the home-cooked meals are deliciously authentic.

  Hotel AzoulHOTEL€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 30 15; www.hotelazoul.com; Av Mohamed V; s/d/ste Dh340/450/650; aW)

  This good-value place has attractive rooms painted in neutral tones, with silky striped bed covers, carved dark-wood furniture and decent lighting (plus extras like electric kettles, mini-fridges and flat-screen TVs). Rooms at the front are brighter with small balconies, but also noisier. It's located on the busy main road, about 13 minutes' walk west of Ouarzazate's centre.

  Dar KamarGUESTHOUSE€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 87 33; www.darkamar.com; 45 Kasbah Taourirt; s Dh765-1020, d Dh900-1200, ste Dh1360-1900, all incl breakfast; aW)

  Once a stern 17th-century Glaoui courthouse, this cosy pisé guesthouse has a sense of humour: upturned tajines serve as sinks and sewing-machine tables are repurposed as desks. Local iron-workers went wild decorating the en suites, though showers are poorly ventilated – a fine excuse to use the in-house hammam and massage room.

  5Eating

  HabousMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl al-Mouahidine; mains Dh30-70; hrestaurant noon-1am, cafe 7am-1am)

  Overlooking the lively square at the epicentre of Ouarzazate, Habous is the most popular place in town. It has a patisserie, cafe and restaurant, with plenty of outdoor seating for taking in life on the square. The restaurant side (third building on the right) serves up salads, brochettes, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas, plus steaks and gratin dishes at reasonable prices.

  Chez NabilMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 45 45; Ave Moulay Rachid; mains Dh45-75; h10am-10pm)

  With its red-and-white-checked tablecloths and fast, friendly service, Chez Nabil is a local favourite. Choose between quick and easy burgers, chicken skewers and merguez sausages and trad favourites such as liver tajine and couscous.

  Aux DelicesPASTRIES€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 28 29; Ave Moulay Rachid; pastries from Dh5; h6am-midnight)

  Legendary for its chnek (custard cinnamon-raisin twirl), this patisserie rivals the best in Marrakesh.

  Restaurant 3 ThésMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 63 63; Ave Moulay Rachid; mains Dh25-55; h8am-10pm)
/>   The wrought-iron sidewalk seating and cosy interiors say Paris cafe, but the menu says cheeseburgers and tasty vegetarian or meaty tajines with figs, prunes or almonds.

  oDouyriaMOROCCAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 42 62; www.restaurant-ouarzazate.net; 72 Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh60-110; h11am-3pm & 7-11pm; v)

  One of the best eateries in town, Douyria wows dinners with its rooftop terrace, candlelit tables and cushion-lined nooks perfect for taking in the atmospheric surrounds with a cocktail. You can feast on richly flavoured couscous and tajine, including unusual options like roasted goat basted in argan oil or camel with figs; alternatively, stick to well-marinated beef skewers with wild thyme.

  Chez DimitriFUSION€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh70-120; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm)

  This historic spot has been around since 1928, when Chez Dimitri played a pivotal role as petrol station, transport hub, restaurant and even dance hall in the fledgling city of Ouarzazate. You can contemplate the past – old sepia prints line the walls – while dining on warm goat's cheese salad, lasagna, lamp chops and the house speciality of moussaka.

  Jardin des ArômesMOROCCAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 88 02; 69 Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh100-150; h10am-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun)