Lonely Planet Indonesia Read online

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  Top Experiences

  Borobudur

  The breathtaking Borobudur temple complex is a stunning and poignant epitaph to Java's Buddhist heyday in the 9th century AD and is a highlight of a visit to Indonesia. One of the most important Buddhist sites in the world and one of the finest temple complexes in Southeast Asia, the temple consists of six square bases topped by three circular ones. Nearly 1500 narrative relief panels on the terraces illustrate Buddhist teachings and tales, while 432 Buddha images sit in chambers on the terraces.

  Stupas at the top of BorobudurPHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET ©

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  Jakarta Nightlife

  If you have the stamina, Jakarta has the action, for this is Southeast Asia's best-kept party secret. Sure, Indonesia is a predominantly Muslim nation where traditions run deep, but in Jakarta, almost anything goes – the scene can get very underground in the north of town. The city has it all: superstylin' lounges frequented by the oh-so-beautiful crowd, low-key bars where the soundtrack is vintage 1970s funk, alt-rock music venues and electro clubs where DJs attain messiah-like status.

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  Tanjung Puting National Park

  African Queen meets jungle safari in this ever-popular national park in southern Kalimantan, where you can not only get up close and personal with Asia's largest ape, the orangutan, but also cruise the jungle in high style aboard your own private houseboat. The typically three-day journey takes you on a round trip up the Sungai Sekonyer to Camp Leakey, with stops at several orangutan feeding stations and plenty of impromptu wildlife spotting. Despite its creature comforts, the experience still manages to be authentic adventure travel, and is open to anyone.

  Mother and baby orangutansFRANCOIS-OLIVIER DOMMERGUES/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Raja Ampat Islands

  The remote, still-being-discovered Raja Ampat Islands off Papua's northwest tip are a diver's dream. Raja Ampat is home to the greatest diversity of marine life on the planet, from giant manta rays and epaulette sharks that use their fins to 'walk' on the sea floor, to myriad multicoloured nudibranchs ('sea slugs'), fantastic pristine coral, and every size, shape and hue of fish you can imagine. The snorkelling is great too, and the above-water scenery is just as unique and sublime.

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  Banda Islands

  Here is a rich and intoxicating cocktail of history, culture and raw natural beauty. The Banda Islands – a remote archipelago draped in jungle and spice trees, fringed with white sand, surrounded by clear blue seas and pristine reefs – kickstarted colonisation and helped shape the modern world. Fly to the capital – Bandaneira – from Ambon, stroll the wide avenues, admire late-colonial relics, then charter a boat to the outer islands, where village life is warm and easy, and stress peels from your soul by the second.

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  Karimunjawa

  Set 90km off the north coast of Central Java is an archipelago as remote and wild as any in east Indonesia, yet still accessible by ferry and flights from Semarang and Surabaya. The Karimunjawa Islands are a group of 27 coral-fringed beauties, some are uninhabited and off limits to visitors, but most are accessible on day tours from the main island of Karimunjawa, jungled and mountainous, fringed with white-sand beaches and swaying with coconut palms. Magic.

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  Kapuas Hulu

  At the headwaters of the Sungai Kapuas, Indonesia's longest river, awaits everything you need for a primal jungle adventure. Step into the past at Kalimantan's oldest longhouse perched high on its gnarled ironwood pillars. Snake through Danau Sentarum's photogenic mudflats on narrow fish-packed waterways that are seasonally submerged. Soak up the port town of Putussibau. Tackle roiling rapids and leech-infested forests on the epic Cross-Borneo Trek. Or, strike off into the darkest corner of the island in search of new rainforest species in Betung Kerihun National Park.

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  Gili Islands

  One of Indonesia’s greatest joys is hopping on a fast boat from busy Bali and arriving on one of the irresistible Gili Islands. Think sugar-white sand, bathtub-warm, turquoise waters and wonderful beach resorts and bungalows just begging you to extend your stay. Not to mention the coral reefs that are teeming with sharks, rays and turtles. Savour the dining and nightlife on Gili Trawangan, the perfect balance of Gili Air and the pint-sized charms of Gili Meno. Or simply do nothing at all.

  Gili TrawanganGONZALO AZUMENDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Ubud

  Famous in books and movies, the artistic heart of Bali exudes a compelling spiritual appeal. The streets are lined with galleries where artists, both humble and great, create. Beautiful dance performances showcasing the island's rich culture grace a dozen stages nightly. Museums honour the works of those inspired here over the years, while people walk the rice fields to find the perfect spot to sit in lotus position and ponder life's endless possibilities. Ubud is a state of mind and a beautiful state of being.

  Balinese women carrying ceremonial offeringsGONZALO AZUMENDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Baliem Valley

  Trekking in Papua's Baliem Valley takes you into the world of the Dani, a mountain people whose traditional culture still stands proud despite changes wrought by Indonesian government and Christian missionaries. You'll sleep in their villages of grass-roofed huts, climb narrow jungle trails, traverse panoramic open hillsides, cross raging rivers by wobbly hanging footbridges, and be charmed by the locals' smiles. A tip for those bridges: don't look at the water, but do look where you're putting your feet!

  Dani man, ObiaINSIGHTS/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Pulau Bunaken

  You know those gardens that seem to have hundreds of plant species artistically thriving together in small decorative plots? Now imagine that done with coral in every colour from stark black and white to intense purples. Next cover it all in clear water teeming with iridescent fish, some in thick schools fluttering like sprinkles of sunlight. The water around Pulau Bunaken is more beautiful than you could imagine and yet it gets better: turtles the size of armchairs, reef sharks and, if you're lucky, dolphins and dugongs that swim casually through the scene.

  Sea anemone on a coral reefSPHINX WANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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  Tana Toraja

  Life revolves around death in this countryside of rice terraces, boat-shaped roofs and doe-eyed buffalo in Sulawesi. Tana Torajan funeral ceremonies last days, and involve countless animal sacrifices for the upper classes. The festivities start with bet-heavy bullfights then lead into days of prayer, feasting and dances. At the end, the deceased is brought to their resting place. This could be carved into a cliff face and fronted by their own wooden effigy, in a cave where relatives can visit the bones, or in hanging graves suspended from cave edges.

  Woman wearing traditional finery at a funeral ceremonyJOHN BORTHWICK/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Togean Islands

  Almost smack on the equator, the blissful, off-grid Togean Islands are an unadulterated vision of the tropics, with blinding white-sand beaches fringed by coconut palms, a smattering of fishing villages, homestay digs, and world-class snorkelling and diving on majestic coral reefs. Things are so mellow here that there’s even a jellyfish lake where the jellies don’t sting. You can forget all about news headlines and Facebook updates – internet access and cellular coverage is near zero.

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  Volcanoes

  Indonesia’s countless volcanoes don’t get much smaller and more perfectly fo
rmed than Gunung Api, a miniature Mt Fuji, which shelters the natural harbour of the Banda Islands. Topping out at a rather diminutive 666m, it erupted as recently as 1988, and can be climbed in an arduous three hours. Among the many others worth exploring are Bali's Agung, Lombok's Rinjani, Java's Bromo, and the infamous Krakatau. Explorations can take several hours or days and guides are almost always recommended. One reward: stunning summit sunrises.

  WANTET/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Gunung Leuser National Park

  This vast slab of steamy tropical jungle draped across the mountains and valleys of northern Sumatra is filled with cheeping, squeaking, growling animal life. It's a naturalist's and adventure traveller's fantasy. Sitting pretty beside a chocolate-coloured river, the village of Ketambe is a relaxing place to rest up for a few days. More importantly, it makes a great base camp for multi-day hiking expeditions in search of howling gibbons, lethargic orangutans and maybe even a tiger or two.

  Lar (white-handed) gibbonANUP SHAH/GETTY IMAGES ©

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  Indonesian Food

  When you eat in Indonesia, you savour the essence of the country. The abundance of rice reflects Indonesia's fertile landscape, the spices are reminiscent of a time of trade and invasion, and the fiery chilli echoes the passion of the people. Chinese, Portuguese, colonists and traders have all influenced the flavours, which include coriander, lemongrass, coconut, and palm sugar. Sate (skewered meat), nasi goreng (fried rice) and gado gado (vegetables with peanut sauce) are justly famous; regional variations are endless.

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  Kerinci Valley

  Detour from bustling Bukittinggi to West Sumatra’s Kerinci Valley, whose appeal lies in its many lakes and waterfalls, its lush, photogenic rice paddies and low-key, traditional villages. After something more strenuous? Then take up the challenge of the Kerinci volcano that looms above the valley and tackle it in a tough overnight climb. If wildlife is your passion, go in search of monkeys, civets, hundreds of bird species and the elusive Sumatran tiger in the Kerinci Seblat National Park.

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  Kerobokan

  South Bali's Kerobokan, and its neighbours Seminyak and Canggu, may be just north of notorious Kuta, but in many respects the trio feel like another island. They're flash, brash and filled with hipsters and expats. It's beguiling, rarefied and just this side of too-cool. The beach is part of a stunning swathe of sand stretching to the horizon in both directions. Countless boutiques, many run by top local designers, vie for your daytime attention. At night have a fabulous meal, then hit a club.

  Potato Head beach clubJOHN HARPER/GETTY IMAGES ©

  Need to Know

  Currency

  Rupiah (Rp)

  Language

  Bahasa Indonesia

  Visas

  The visa situation is complex and fast-changing.

  Money

  ATMs available and credit cards accepted in cities and popular tourist areas such as Bali. US dollars best for exchange elsewhere.

  Mobile Phones

  Cheap local SIM cards sold everywhere. Widespread 3G data.

  Time

  Western Indonesian Time (GMT/UTC plus seven hours); Central Indonesian Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours); Eastern Indonesian Time (GMT/UTC plus nine hours).

  When To Go

  High Season (Jul & Aug)

  ATourist numbers surge across Indonesia, from Bali to Sulawesi and beyond.

  ARoom rates can spike by 50%.

  ADry season except in Maluku and Papua, which are rainy.

  Shoulder (May, Jun & Sep)

  ADry season outside Maluku and Papua.

  ABest weather in Java, Bali and Lombok (dry, not so humid).

  AYou can travel more spontaneously.

  Low Season (Oct–Apr)

  AWet season in Java, Bali and Lombok (and Kalimantan flowers).

  ADry season (best for diving) in Maluku and Papua.

  AEasy to find deals and you can travel with little advance booking (except at Christmas and New Year).

  Useful Websites

  Inside Indonesia (www.insideindonesia.org) News and thoughtful features.

  Jakarta Globe (www.thejakartaglobe.com) Top-notch national English-language newspaper.

  Jakarta Post (www.thejakartapost.com) Indonesia’s original English-language daily.

  tiket.com A convenient way for foreigners to purchase flights with their credit cards.

  LonelyPlanet.com (www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia) Share knowledge and experiences with other travellers.

  Important Numbers

  Mobile phones are common across Indonesia; numbers usually start with 08 and don't require an area code.

  Indonesia country code 62

  International call prefix 001/017

  International operator 102

  Directory assistance 108

  Exchange Rates

  Australia A$1 9880Rp

  Canada C$1 10,225Rp

  Euro €1 14,530Rp

  Japan ¥100 11,115Rp

  New Zealand NZ$1 8960Rp

  UK UK£1 20,735Rp

  US US$1 13,650Rp

  For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

  Daily Costs

  Budget:

  Less than 500,000Rp

  ASimple rooms less than 200,000Rp

  ACheap street meals under 20,000Rp

  ATravel like a local through much of Indonesia outside of major cities and tourist areas

  Midrange:

  500,000–2,000,000Rp

  ADouble rooms with air-con and wi-fi around US$30–80

  ACheap flights to shorten distances

  AGuides plus meals in restaurants (where they exist)

  Top End:

  More than 2,000,000Rp

  AStay at resorts, often noted boutique properties in remote places

  AUse flights and cars with drivers to get around

  ABook special tours for activities like diving and visit top restaurants on Bali

  Opening Hours

  Banks 8am–2pm Monday to Thursday, 8am–noon Friday, 8–11am Saturday

  Government offices 8am–3pm Monday to Thursday, 8am–noon Friday.

  Restaurants 8am–10pm

  Shops 9am or 10am–5pm, larger shops and tourist areas to 8pm; many closed Sunday

  Arriving in Indonesia

  Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (www.jakartaairportonline.com) (Jakarta, CGK)

  Jakarta is the primary entry point to Indonesia but most people merely change planes here before continuing on to their final destination. If staying in Jakarta, you can reach your hotel by taxi, pre-arranged ride or bus.

  Ngurah Rai International Airport (Bali or Denpasar, DPS)

  Bali is the only airport with significant international service apart from Jakarta. Prepaid 24-hour taxis are available to all parts of Bali. It's 60,000Rp for Kuta, 90,000Rp to Seminyak and 250,000Rp for Ubud.

  Getting Around

  Transport in Indonesia takes many forms.

  Boat Boats – slow and fast – link the many islands but beware of rogue operators with dodgy safety standards.

  Bus Buses of all sizes travel almost everywhere cheaply and slowly.

  Car Rent a small 4WD for US$30 a day, get a car and driver from US$60 a day.

  Motorbike Rent one for as little as 60,000Rp a day.

  Ojek Get a cheap ride on the back of a motorbike. Used everywhere.

  Taxi In cities and tourist areas; fairly cheap but only use Bluebird taxis to avoid scams.

  What's New

  Jakarta’s New Restaurant Row

  Just south of the city centre, Jakarta’s Jl Senopati has become an emerging dining district with restaurants and cafes of all flavours and price ranges, lined up shoulder to shoulder.

  Breve Azurine, Java

  One of our favourite new hotels is an island lodge on
Karimunjawa, set on its own private cove with views of jungled mountains, virgin beaches and an endless blue sea.

  Canggu, Bali

  Taking over from Seminyak as Bali's new cool hang-out, the hip expat enclave of Canggu flourishes with beach bars, third-wave coffee, creative menus and boutiques.