Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Read online

  For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/buenos-aires

  Need to Know

  Currency

  Peso (AR$)

  Language

  Spanish

  Visas

  Generally not required for US, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and European citizens. Canadians and Australians must pay a reciprocity fee online before entering Argentina.

  Money

  Carrying cash and an ATM card is best; credit cards are also widely accepted.

  Mobile Phones

  It's best to bring your own factory unlocked tri- or quad-band GSM cell phone, then buy an inexpensive SIM chip (you’ll get a local number) and credits (or cargo virtual) as needed.

  Time

  Argentina Time (GMT/UTC minus three hours)

  Tourist Information

  There are several tourist offices and kiosks in Buenos Aires. Staff speak English and can provide maps and information about free guided walks and other activities.

  When to Go

  Spring (September to November) and fall (March to May) are the best temperature-wise; winter (June to August) is cold but not freezing.

  Daily Costs

  Budget: Less than US$60

  ADorm bed: US$15

  ADouble room in budget hotel: US$80

  AChoripan (sausage sandwich) from a roadside stall: US$5

  Midrange: US$80–$150

  AThree-star hotel room: US$100–175

  AAverage main dish: US$10–15

  AMuseum admission: US$1–8

  Top End: More than US$150

  AFive-star hotel room: US$200

  AFine main dish: US$15–20

  ATaxi trip across town: US$10–15

  Advance Planning

  Two months before Book accommodation if traveling during busy times and your hotel is popular.

  One month before Check the website to see what's on at the Teatro Colón and book tickets.

  One week before Pack smart, comfortable clothing. Porteños are a well-dressed lot, and you’ll stick out as a tourist in a loud shirt, shorts and flip-flops.

  Useful Websites

  Pick up the Fork (www.pickupthefork.com) Restaurant and bar reviews, plus where to shop for ingredients.

  The Bubble (www.thebubble.com) Current affairs, culture and listings.

  Buenos Aires Ciudad (https://turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/en) BA city government's English-language tourist site with up-to-date info, articles and advice.

  My Beautiful Air (http://mybeautifulair.com) Vivi Rathbone's arts and lifestyle guide to BA.

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/argentina/buenos-aires) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

  Arriving in Buenos Aires

  Ezeiza airport (EZE; officially Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini) Shuttle services are a good way to get downtown; the transport booth area is beyond customs and has a couple of companies with frequent shuttles. For taxis, go past the first transport booth area (taxis are overpriced here) to the reception area in arrivals, inside the terminal building. A few steps beyond the place where relatives wait to meet their loved ones, find the city’s official taxi stand (a blue sign says ‘Taxi Ezeiza’). Avoid taxi touts like the plague.

  Aeroparque airport (officially Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) Close to downtown and easily accessible by local bus or taxi.

  Getting Around

  Despite Buenos Aires' heavy traffic, the city's public-transportation system is efficient and usually a better way to get around than driving. Use Como Llego (http://comollego.ba.gob.ar), the city government website, to plot your journey, or download the free app.

  ABus The city has hundreds of bus lines that can take you within a few blocks of any destination.

  ASubte BA's underground, or subway, is not difficult to figure out and a quick way to get around – though it gets hot and very crowded during rush hour.

  ATaxi Black-and-yellow street taxis are ubiquitous and generally fine.

  Sleeping

  Buenos Aires has a very wide range of accommodations, including hostels, guesthouses, B&Bs, homestays, apartments and hotels of all stripes and budgets. Services range widely; some hostels’ private rooms are nicer than many budget hotels’, and can cost more. Boutique hotels are a dime a dozen in Palermo, while five-star luxury is easily found in the Retiro and Recoleta neighborhoods. November through February are busy times, so book ahead if your hotel is a popular one.

  Useful Websites

  AOasis Collections (https://oasiscollections.com/buenos-aires) Provides hotel booking and concierge services.

  AStay in Buenos Aires (www.stayinbuenosaires.com) Furnished apartments for temporary rent.

  ASpare Rooms BA (www.spareroomsba.com) Rooms in shared apartments.

  ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels) Recommendations and bookings.

  Top Itineraries

  Day One

  San Telmo

  MStroll through this colonial neighborhood's cobbled streets and window-shop for antiques. Come on a Sunday, when the famous Feria de San Telmo street market takes over the neighborhood. Book a tour to the stunning El Zanjón de Granados for a peek into the city's origins.

  5

  Lunch Snag a sidewalk table at Bar Plaza Dorrego for great people-watching.

  La Boca

  RThe colorful corrugated houses along El Caminito are indeed photogenic, though this area is a bit of a tourist trap. It's still fun, however; check out the souvenir shops and artists' paintings and perhaps catch a street-tango show. Art lovers shouldn't miss Fundación Proa, a cutting-edge gallery, while soccer fans can head to La Bombonera stadium and visit the Boca team's Museo de la Pasión Boquense. But don't stray too far from the tourist hordes; La Boca is at times a sketchy neighborhood.

  5

  Dinner Reserve for Café San Juan, serving exceptional international cuisine.

  San Telmo

  NIf it's Wednesday or Sunday, take a tango class then watch the dancing and the live tango orchestra at Maldita Milonga. Or go drinking at one of the many great watering holes in the area, such as Doppelgänger, an upscale cocktail bar.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Two

  Palermo

  MWalk (or take a bike ride) along Palermo's Parque 3 de Febrero, where you can also visit a rose garden, botanical garden and Japanese garden. Bike paths are laced throughout.

  5

  Lunch Big Sur is great for a burger and a pint of craft beer.

  Palermo

  RVisit MALBA, a beautiful art museum showcasing the collection of art patron Eduardo F Costantini. The Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo is another must-see; it's a beaux-arts mansion that once belonged to a Chilean aristocrat, and is full of his posh belongings. Finally, Evita fans can't miss Museo Evita, which chronicles the life of Argentina's most internationally famous woman.

  5

  Dinner For an excellent steak, get a table at Don Julio.

  Palermo

  NPalermo is nightlife central. There are dozens of bars to check out, and people come from all over to dance at the famous clubs here. Begin with wine at Pain et Vin, a cocktail at Verne or craft beer at Bluedog or On Tap.

  Top Itineraries

  Day Three

  The Center

  MFrom leafy Plaza San Martín, walk south on pedestrian Florida and experience masses of people shopping, busking, selling or just power-walking to their next destination. You'll eventually come within a block of Plaza de Mayo, the heart of Buenos Aires. This historic plaza is surrounded by Casa Rosada, Catedral Metropolitana and Cabildo.

  5

  Lunch For outside seating and fresh offerings, try i Central Market.

  Puerto Madero

  RLined with renovated old brick warehouses, Puerto Madero is replete with fancy lofts and apartment towers, plus some of the city's most expensive (and some say overpriced) restaurants. It's a very scenic and pleasantly vehicle-free place to stroll the cobbled path
s along the dikes. Art lovers shouldn't miss Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, highlighting the collection of Argentina's wealthiest woman. For a shot of nature, visit Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur.

  5

  Dinner Casual but excellent Peruvian can be had at Chan Chan.

  Congreso & Tribunales

  NTake in an opera, ballet or classical-music show at Teatro Colón, Buenos Aires' premier theater. The traditional entertainment district of Avenida Corrientes still hops these days, showcasing many films, art events and plays.

  Puerto Madero | SPECTRAL-DESIGN / SHUTTERSTOCK

  Top Itineraries

  Day Four

  Recoleta & Barrio Norte

  MExplore Recoleta's famous cemetery; you can wander for hours among the crumbling sacrophagi and marble angels. It's a veritable city of the dead, fascinating and mysterious; to seek out Evita's tomb, just follow everyone else.

  5

  Lunch Have empanadas at El Sanjuanino, one of the area's few cheap eateries.

  Recoleta & Barrio Norte

  RCheck out the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Argentina's top classic-arts museum. Just north is Floralis Genérica, a giant metal flower whose petals open during the day and close at night (when the gears are working!). And if you've got the bucks, the city's most expensive boutiques are along Avenida Alvear, worth a stroll to eyeball some huge old mansions. Visit Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco and Palacio Paz, in nearby Retiro, if you like gorgeous palaces filled with antiques.

  5

  Dinner Looking for the locals? Then head to classic Rodi Bar.

  Retiro

  NTime to drink up: Florería Atlántico is a basement speakeasy located within a flower shop selling cocktails and house-brewed gin, while BASA Basement Bar is a fashionable restaurant-bar selling excellent (but pricey) Moscow mules.

  If You Like...

  Museums

  Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires Gorgeous, glassy art museum showcasing the private collection of art patron Eduardo F Costantini.

  Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes From European impressionists to Latin American maestros, this national art museum covers them all.

  Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo Beautiful beaux-arts mansion strewn with the posh belongings of a Chilean aristocrat.

  Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat Impressive private art collection in an architectually interesting building.

  Fundación Proa Cutting-edge gallery-museum with contemporary art exhibits, plus a rooftop cafe with a view of La Boca.

  Museo de Arte Moderno Spacious, multistory museum in a former warehouse exhibiting the works of Argentine contemporary artists.

  Museo Evita Learn about the life and legacy of Argentina's iconic first lady.

  Museo Histórico y Numismático José Evaristo Uriburu The history of Argentina's national currency tells the story of the country's ups and downs.

  Historic Places

  Plaza de Mayo Buenos Aires' original main square, dating to the 1580s and surrounded by significant buildings.

  El Zanjón de Granados Beautifully renovated, underground architectural site of the city's first settlements.

  Plaza San Martín Pleasant leafy park that was once home to Spanish governors, slave quarters, a bullring and a battlefield.

  Manzana de las Luces Taking up a whole city block, this was BA's most important center of culture and learning during colonial times.

  Plaza Dorrego BA's second-oldest square was once a pit stop for caravans bringing produce into the city.

  Green Spaces

  Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur Low-lying, 350-hectare landfill site that's become a haven for wildlife and nature seekers.

  Parque 3 de Febrero Laced with miles of bike trails, this large green park also has a rose garden, planetarium and small lakes.

  Parque de la Memoria Landscaped park on the Costanera Norte that serves as a memorial to the victims of Argentina's military dictatorships.

  Jardín Japonés Tidy green oasis of tranquility in Palermo, complete with sushi restaurant and cultural offerings.

  Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays Surrounded by busy avenues, this modest botanical garden offers a peaceful break from the city.

  Jardín Japonés | SAIKO3P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Free Stuff

  Cementerio de la Recoleta BA's most popular tourist attraction and a must-visit for its decorative tombs and statues.

  Centro Cultural Kirchner Catch a concert at this magnificent venue housed in the former central post office.

  La Glorieta Dance the tango at this romantic open-air milonga in a bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgrano.

  Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Spend an afternoon at this large and excellent national art museum.

  Hipódromo Argentino Head to Palermo's horse-racing track and place some bets.

  Feria de San Telmo See street performers among the stalls at this famous Sunday street market.

  Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur Marshy lands located in Puerto Madero near the city center, but miles away in atmosphere.

  Cementerio de la Chacarita ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0800-444-2363; Guzmán 680; h7:30am-5pm; bLínea B Federico Lacroze) A larger, less flashy version of Recoleta's cemetery.

  Free City Tour Locals who love their city offer free walking tours in English (tips appreciated).

  Campo Argentino de Polo Qualifying matches for the Palermo Open (in September and October) are free to attend.

  Unusual Tours

  Tango Trips Tango your way around some of BA's best milongas.

  Biking Buenos Aires Pedal around Palermo's parks and on bike lanes; a fun and easy way to tour the city.

  Graffitimundo See the city through its colorful and dynamic street-art scene.

  Foto Ruta Unique self-guided tour via photographing clues around BA's neighborhoods.

  Parrilla Tour (%15-4048-5964; www.parrillatour.com; per person US$79; hPalermo tour noon & 7:30pm Tue, noon Fri & Sat, San Telmo tour noon Mon & Wed) Explore the city's off-the-beaten-track parrillas (steakhouses) and learn about Argentina's food and culture.

  The Offbeat

  Tierra Santa Visit this kitschy 'world's first religious theme park' and witness the resurrection every half-hour.

  Museo del Agua y de la Historia Sanitaria ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6319-1104; www.aysa.com.ar; Riobamba 750, 1st fl; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri, tours in Spanish 11am Mon, Wed & Fri; bLínea D Callao) Pretty tiles, ceramic pipes and old bidets and toilets are highlighted at this small, quirky museum.

  Museo Nacional Ferroviario See assorted memorabilia and evocative photographs relating to Argentina's railways.

  Museo de la Policía Federal Exhibits on cockfighting, drug paraphernalia and hacked-up murder victims – only at the Police Museum.

  Month By Month

  Top Events

  Feria Masticar, May

  Tango BA Festival y Mundial, August

  Vinos y Bodegas, September

  La Noche de los Museos, October

  Campeonato Abierto Argentino de Polo, December

  February

  It's still summer, but vacationing porteños start to return home. There are plenty of tourists in the city, some passing through on their way to or from Patagonia.

  zBuenos Aires Fashion Week

  Four days of clothing stalls and catwalk action (www.bafweek.com.ar) show off the city’s latest threads and their makers. It takes place at Palermo’s La Rural in February (fall/winter collections) and August (spring/summer collections). Expect plenty of beautiful people – including models, of course.

  zCarnaval

  Usually occurring in late February, BA's Carnaval is a small affair compared to Rio’s or Bahia’s, but it's still lots of fun. Catch some murga groups (traditional Carnaval ensembles), with dancing and drumming in different neighborhoods around the city.

  April

  It's fall in BA, and one of the best times to visit – but always be prepared for a downpour. The
re are still plenty of activities as the city heads into low season.

  zFestival Internacional de Cine Independiente (Bafici)

  This independent film festival (http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar) highlights national and international films, with awards given out in separate categories. Over 100 films are screened, with a main venue being the Abasto shopping mall.

  May

  Late autumn has hit and it's pleasantly cool as the rains die back a bit. Look for travel deals as low season starts in earnest.

  zArte BA

  Arte BA features exhibitions from hundreds of art galleries, dealers, institutions and organizations, with both national and international contemporary art on display. Conferences, presentations and discussions make the rounds, while young new artists get exposure.