Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Read online

  Biertan | Aivita Arika / Shutterstock ©

  Top Experiences

  Skiing in the Pirin Mountains

  The Pirin Mountains are truly a land of giants, with more than 100 peaks towering higher than 2000m. Their summer splendour draws hikers to Pirin National Park, but long winters and downy snowfall make Pirin the Balkans’ best skiing and snowboarding destination. Nestled at the base of Mt Vihren (2915m), Bansko is Bulgaria’s premium winter sports town. Its 75km of pistes, extending to a height of 2600m, have options for all levels. Just as invigorating is Bansko’s après-ski culture, which culminates with the Horizon Festival.

  Skiers in Bankso | Nataliya Nazarova / Shutterstock ©

  Top Experiences

  Driving the Transfăgărăşan Road

  When the twisting, turning, high-altitude Transfăgărăşan road in southern Transylvania was built in the '70s, it was derided as a vanity project for the Ceauşescu regime. Who could have imagined a generation later it would be celebrated by TV's Top Gear as the world's most exciting length of road. Boldly charging up and down one of Romania’s highest mountains provides an unforgettable, white-knuckle experience behind the wheel. The climax is glacial Lake Bâlea, which hovers like a mirror among the rocks and is sometimes totally enshrouded by clouds.

  Calin Stan / Shutterstock ©

  Top Experiences

  Plovdiv

  With a charming old town, revitalised artistic quarter and the most exhilarating nightlife outside Sofia, Bulgaria’s second city has never looked finer. Ancient buildings nestle right in the centre of this seven-hilled town; a pleasant shopping street flows past its 2nd-century Roman stadium (which still hosts concerts) and a 15th-century mosque in an effortless blend of old and new. Investment for Plovdiv’s reign as European Capital of Culture 2019 has left the city gleaming, while the city's calendar bursts with opera, jazz, open-air art and more.

  Nataliya Nazarova / Shutterstock ©

  Welcome to Romania

  Rugged stone churches and dazzling monasteries dot a pristine landscape of rocky mountains and rolling hills. Transylvanian towns have stepped out of time, while vibrant Bucharest is all energy.

  Village in the Carpathian mountains | Vitalii Bashkatov / Shutterstock ©

  Nature & Wildlife

  The Carpathian Mountains draw a wide arc through the centre of the country, leaving a swath of exposed rocky peaks surrounded by groves of pine and deciduous trees, and stretches of bright green meadow below. The harsh geography has limited human habitation, and the woods are filled with deer, elk and bear. Europe's second-longest river, the Danube, marks Romania's southern border with Bulgaria before turning suddenly northward and emptying into the Black Sea. The delta provides sanctuary for 300 species of bird and 160 species of fish. The sprawling marshes account for the largest expanse of reed beds in the world.

  Castles & Medieval Towns

  Transylvania, the land that gave us Dracula, has no shortage of jaw-dropping castles pitched precariously on rocky hilltops. There's spooky Bran Castle, of course, with its spurious connection to Bram Stoker’s fictional count, but don’t overlook beauties such as Hunedoara’s 14th-century Corvin Castle or King Carol I’s sumptuous 19th-century pile, Peleş Castle. In medieval towns like Braşov, Sighişoara and Sibiu, cobbled walkways support chic streetside cafes, while a cacophony of sounds emanating from student bars and clubs echo off the Gothic and baroque facades in lively Cluj-Napoca. Transylvania’s Saxon villages boast fortified churches that date back half a millennium.

  Folk Culture

  For centuries, a highly productive peasant culture thrived in much of Romania. The hilly geography and lack of passable roads necessitated the emergence of hundreds of self-sufficient villages, where old-school crafts such as bread-making, pottery, tanning and weaving were honed to an art. Folk museums, particularly the open-air skansens and village museums, are a must. Many isolated hamlets, where the old folkways are still practised, are museums in themselves. This is most evident in Maramureş, where oversized hay racks, horse carts and stately wooden churches dominate, and towns and villages have seemingly stepped out of the Middle Ages.

  Outdoor Activities

  The rocky peaks of Transylvania and Moldavia, snow-capped from mid-October in some years, call out for conquering, and well-marked trails lead to summits from all directions. There are less adventurous but no less rewarding walks through woods, meadows and villages in other parts of the country. The Danube Delta is a vast and unique protected wetland and makes a perfect backdrop for fishing, boating and, especially, birdwatching in spring. In summer, from mid-June to early September, the action moves to the Black Sea coast. Beach resorts fill up with swimmers, divers, sunbathers and partiers, who come for the all-night, open-air clubbing marathons.

  Why I Love Romania

  By Mark Baker, Writer

  When I travel, I’m attracted to contrasts. In Romania, that means scenes of overloaded hay- and horse-carts sharing highway space with speeding Audis; or in cities, rows of regal ruins of former palaces standing side-by-side with gleaming new office buildings. There’s never a dull moment. Bucharest has an unearned poor reputation, but through the cracks in the old facades, I see green shoots of creativity. It’s a city of hidden gardens and quirky cafes. Further afield, the mountains and rural areas are quiet, unexplored and still highly authentic. There’s a stillness and freshness in the air here that allows the mind freedom to roam.

  Need to Know

  Currency

  Romanian leu/lei (singular/plural)

  Language

  Romanian

  Money

  ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels and restaurants.

  Visas

  Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days. Passport holders of EU member states can stay indefinitely.

  Mobile Phones

  Local SIM cards can be used in European, Australian and some American phones. Other phones must be set to roaming.

  Transport

  Mostly trains (or planes) for long-distance travel; buses and minibuses (also called 'maxitaxis') within regions.

  When to Go

  High Season (Jun–Aug)

  ASunny weather from June through to August, but temperatures can get oppressively hot.

  ALocals head for the Black Sea; Mamaia is packed.

  ACastles, museums, water parks and spas open and in high gear.

  Shoulder (Apr–May & Sep–Oct)

  ASome museums, monasteries and attractions are closed or have shorter hours.

  ATrees in full blossom by April; later in higher elevations.

  ABirdwatching in the Danube Delta at its best in late May.

  Low Season (Nov–Mar)

  ASki season runs from mid-December to early March.

  ARomantic cities like Braşov and Sibiu look great in coats of snow.

  AMuseums and castles in smaller towns shut down or open only on weekends.

  Your Daily Budget

  Budget: Less than 130 lei

  AHostel dorm room or guesthouse: 50 lei per person

  AStreet food and self-catering: 40 lei

  ATrain/bus tickets: 30 lei

  AMuseum admission: 10 lei

  Midrange: 130–360 lei

  ADouble in a midrange hotel or pension: 120 lei per person

  AMeals in good restaurants: 60 lei

  ATrain/bus tickets: 30 lei

  AMuseum admissions: 30 lei

  Top end: More than 360 lei

  ADouble in the best place in town: 200 lei per person

  ALunch/dinner at the best restaurants: 80 lei

  ATaxi rides: 50 lei

  AMuseum admissions: 30 lei

  Useful Websites

  Bucharest Life (www.bucharestlife.net) Casts a keen but critical eye on the capital.

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/romania) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Romania National Tour
ism Office (www.romaniatourism.com) Official tourism site.

  Rural Tourism (www.ruralturism.ro) Rural B&Bs across Romania.

  Sapte Seri (www.sapteseri.ro) What's-on listings.

  Exchange Rates

  For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

  Important Numbers

  Arriving in Romania

  Henri Coandă International Airport (Bucharest) Express bus 783 runs to the centre (40 minutes, 7 lei); taxis to the centre cost 50 to 60 lei (30 to 40 minutes); trains to Gara de Nord are 10 lei (30 minutes).

  Cluj Avram Iancu International Airport (Cluj-Napoca) To get to the centre take bus 5 or 8 (30 minutes, 2.50 lei), or a taxi (25 minutes, 50 lei).

  Timișoara Traian Vuia International Airport (Timişoara) Express bus E4 (30 minutes, 2.50 lei) and taxis (25 minutes, 50 lei) run to the centre.

  Street Scams & Annoyances

  Romania is a relatively safe country, but there are some common scams to be aware of.

  Watch out for jacked-up prices for tourists in Bucharest restaurants, taxis that charge extortionate fares (call for one from companies recommended by your hotel), and a lifted wallet if you’re not careful in public squares or jam-packed buses – pretty much like anywhere in the world. Outside the capital, and away from touristy zones like Braşov, you’ll probably end up being surprised you were ever concerned.

  Stray dogs are an annoyance, but rarely pose a danger. Avoid the temptation to pat them. The best strategy is to stay out of their way and they'll stay out of yours.

  If You Like…

  Folk Culture

  ASTRA National Museum Complex This open-air museum in Sibiu holds some 300 reconstructed peasant huts and farmhouses in a lovely park setting.

  National Village Museum Romania’s humbler origins are on display at this well-done skansen (open-air museum), situated incongruously in the middle of Bucharest.

  Ethnographic Museum Occupying a wing of the stunningly renovated Palace of Culture, this collection of folk arts and crafts in Iaşi ranks among the most comprehensive in the country.

  Huedin Microregion A bucolic paradise near the Apuseni Mountains much beloved by Hungarian folklorists as a stronghold of pastoral Transylvanian life.

  Maramureş Large parts of this remote rural area to the north of Transylvania still feel untouched by modern times.

  Castles & Fortresses

  Fortified Church The whitewashed fortified church in Viscri, some 900 years old, is a splendidly restored feat of medieval engineering.

  Royal Citadel Suceava's rugged and abandoned 14th-century fortress has received a high-tech makeover with amusing videos and touchscreen exhibits.

  Bran Castle This mighty fortified castle got its start under the Teutonic knights as a watchtower over a strategic pass between Transylvania and Wallachia.

  Peleş Castle If your taste runs to more aristocratic piles, this former residence of King Carol I will not disappoint.

  Poienari Citadel Climb the 1480 steps up to this hilltop fortress that really was the stomping ground of feared Wallachian prince Vlad Ţepeş, aka Dracula.

  Medieval Towns & Villages

  Sighişoara The glorious 14th-century clock tower stands atop the town's citadel, marking out Transylvania's most picturesque Saxon town.

  Curtea de Argeş This former Wallachian capital boasts the extensive ruins of a Princely Court with an intact, frescoed 700-year-old church.

  Sibiel A pretty and remote Saxon village that recalls Little Red Riding Hood, with the village almost swallowed by the neighbouring forest; in recent winters packs of wolves have been spotted.

  Ieud One of at least a dozen historic Maramureş villages; this one has two wooden churches and many traditional etched wooden gates.

  Măgura The peaks of the Piatra Craiului mountains form a breathtaking backdrop to this tiny village not far from Braşov.

  The Great Outdoors

  Sfântu Gheorghe Relax on a pristine beach one day, scout out rare pelicans the next at the end of the Danube Delta.

  Apuseni Mountains Nature Park This protected area in the northwest of the country is marked by amazing limestone formations, including arguably Romania's best caves.

  Iron Gates National Park The Danube flows through a dramatic and perilously narrow gorge here along the southern border with Serbia.

  Făgăraş Mountains Home to the country's tallest and most majestic mountains, with at least six peaks topping 2500m.

  Around Braşov The woods and hills around Braşov are the perfect spot for tracking wild animals, including wolves, lynx and bears, on a guided tour.

  Nightlife

  Bucharest's Old Town The tiny lanes that once surrounded the old Princely Court have been converted into an unbroken string of bars, pubs and clubs.

  Mamaia Romania’s most popular Black Sea resort is ground zero for the country’s best summer beach clubs.

  Timişoara You'd expect the home of the biggest university in the west of the country to hold epic parties and you'd be right.

  Cluj-Napoca Not to be outdone by Timişoara, this is another big-league college town with pubs and clubs on every corner.

  Vama Veche Locals contend you haven't really partied on the Black Sea until you've pulled a beachside all-nighter here over an August weekend.

  History

  Palace of Parliament Former dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu's must-see alabaster albatross is an admittedly extreme example of severe, communist-era architecture.

  Military Barracks The modest barracks where the Ceauşescus were executed on Christmas Day in 1989 has been reopened as a simple but chilling museum.

  Former Ceauşescu Residence Grandiose or simply extreme kitsch? You be the judge as you tour the villa where the Ceauşescus lived for two decades.

  Museum of the 1989 Revolution Timişoara launched the country's anticommunist revolution in 1989, and this moving exhibition tells that very brave tale.

  Cucuteni Museum This gem in Piatra Neamţ highlights the ancient Cucuteni people and their provocative sculptures of feminine beauty.

  National History & Archaeological Museum The amazing reach of ancient Greek and Roman cultures are displayed at Constanţa's landmark museum.

  Iron Gates Museum The highlight is a scale model of the Roman bridge constructed across the Danube River in AD 103.

  Interior, Palace of Parliament | PhotoStock10 / Shutterstock ©

  Month by Month

  Top Events

  International Theatre Festival, June

  Transilvania International Film Festival, June

  Festival of Medieval Arts & Crafts, July

  Untold Festival, August

  George Enescu Music Festival, September

  January

  Expect snow and ice everywhere during, statistically speaking, the country's coldest month. Avoid slushy Bucharest and head instead for the mountains, where ski resorts are in full gear.

  zWinter Sports Festival

  Held in Moldavia’s Câmpulung Moldovenesc on the last Sunday of January. While sports are indeed the focus, they're mainly an excuse for revelry.

  February

  Ski resorts crowd up as school kids take their annual week-long winter break. Elsewhere, the winter freeze is going strong, and museums in the countryside are closed or have only weekend hours.

  zEnchanted Water Springs

  Târgu Jiu’s annual folk-music festival is held over the third weekend of the month.

  March

  March starts out festive, with the annual Mărțișor (1 March) holiday to mark the start of spring, but the rest of the month is normally cold, dark and wet.

  zSighișoara Blues Festival

  The highly regarded Sighișoara Blues Festival (www.blues-festival.ro) is held over two days every year on the last weekend of March.

  April

  If you're partial to blossoming trees, this is the most beautiful month of the year. Easter is the high point of the Orthodox calendar, and Easter fairs and painted-egg festivals abo
und.

  zBucharest International Film Festival

  The annual Bucharest International Film Festival (www.b-iff.ro) brings world cinema to screenings around town over 10 days in April.

  zSt George's Day Festival

  Held in Sfântu Gheorghe (Transylvania) in mid-April, the festival of St George's Day (hlate-Apr) honours the church’s patron saint and is all about folk music, street food and nightly concerts.