Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Read online

  The Gardens' most classy restaurant and wine bar is Sage ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2268 1328; www.sagekl.com; level 6, Gardens Residences, Mid Valley, Jln Syed Putra; set lunches/dinners RM120/220; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; dMid Valley), offering inventive cuisine using high-quality ingredients, and there's also a swanky oyster and seafood bar, Shucked – oyster happy hour runs from 3pm to 6pm. Another option is the Japanese restaurant Yuzu ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2284 7663; http://yuzu.com.my/gardens; 3rd fl, Gardens Mall, Lingkaran Syed Putra; sets RM36-78; h11.30am-10pm; dMid Valley). The pictures in the menu do look better than what you get but portions are large and the prices are right.

  Activities

  Apart from going to the movies, there's a bowling alley in Megamall. Dive Station Explorer ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2282 1948; www.divestation.com.my; 3rd fl, Mid Valley Megamall, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran Syed Putra; h10am-10pm; dMid Valley) is an experienced operator and dive shop through which you can arrange three-day/two-night PADI open-water courses and other dive courses.

  Entertainment

  GSC Mid ValleyCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gsc.com.my; 3rd fl, Mid Valley Megamall; tickets RM11-20; dMid Valley)

  The recently revamped Mid Valley branch of the GSC cinema chain includes a 277-seater screening room.

  2Sports & Activities

  oHammam SpaSPA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2282 2180; www.hammamspas.com; 3rd fl, Bangsar Village II, Jln Telawi 1; treatments RM116-398; h10am-10.30pm; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  The Moroccan steam bath comes to KL at this small and beautiful mosaic-tiled spa. Couples and singles packages are available with sumptuous titles such as the Royal Couple (RM730) and the Sultan's Daughter's Wedding (RM456), or you can go for a simple steam and scrub (gommage).

  There's also a branch at Publika.

  Old KL & Nature WalkWALKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; h9-11.30am Tue & Thu; LRT Masjid Jamek)F

  The latest of the free walking tours offered by Visit KL is a 2½-hour stroll from the Loke Chow Kit mansion (home to the KL Tourism Bureau) through Chinatown to the KL Forest Eco Park, with stops at Masjid Jamek, the Sin Sze Si Ya Temple and the Muzium Telekom.

  The guide's stories and old photographs bring the history of the city to life.

  Majestic SpaSPA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2785 8070; www.majestickl.com; Majestic Hotel, 5 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; treatments RM410-995; h10am-10pm; dKuala Lumpur)

  Charles Rennie Mackintosh's Willow Tea Rooms in Glasgow are the inspiration for the Majestic's delightful spa, where treatments are preceded by a refreshing tea or Pimm's cocktail. After your pampering, there's a pool for a dip and sunbathe.

  Tugu Drum CirclePERFORMING ARTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5.30-8.30pm Sun; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  This open group for drummers meets at Plaza Tugu Negara in the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park on Sundays from 5.30pm till 8.30pm. Beginners are welcome. See the Facebook page for details.

  Get a taxi from Masjid Jamek.

  YMCALANGUAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 1439; www.ymcakl.com; 95 Jln Padang Belia; DKL Sentral)

  Become a member, then you can join the Bahasa Malaysia classes as well as courses studying Thai, Mandarin, Cantonese and Japanese.

  Kizsports & GymHEALTH & FITNESS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2284 6313; www.kizsports.com.my; 3rd fl, Bangsar Village II, Jln Telawi 1; child RM40; h10am-7pm; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  This large soft play area for under-12s is a great place for little ones to blow off steam, and there's a 'drop and shop' service for over-threes (RM42 per hour). Children must wear socks.

  Kompleks Sukan BangsarGYM

  (Bangsar Sports Complex; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2284 1150; 3 Jln Terasek 3; RM3; h9.30am-noon, 2-4.30pm & 6-8.30pm Mon-Sat; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Entry fee includes a swimming session at the 25m outdoor pool. You can also rent courts for badminton (per hour RM8) and tennis (per hour RM10).

  WORTH A DETOUR

  PUBLIKA

  Art, shopping, dining and social life are all in harmony at Publika ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/PublikaGallery; 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h10am-9pm), a forward-thinking retail and residential development less than 10 minutes' drive north of Bangsar. Dazzling murals, quirky themes for the toilets and a fun kids' playground all add to Publika's visual interest and point to a liberal vibe that's in striking contrast to the conservative Islamic high court, the giant mosque and the Istana Negara (National Palace) that are the complex's neighbours.

  Galleries & Events

  Contemporary art is fostered at several independent galleries at Publika, with MAP ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6207 9732; www.facebook.com/mapkl; Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h10am-9pm) acting as the cultural anchor with a wide variety of performances, talks and art exhibitions held in its White and Black Box spaces – everything from Malaysian death-metal bands to major public events and product launches. Free films are screened each Monday in the central square and a handicrafts market is held on the last Sunday of the month. MAP's and Publika's Facebook pages list up-to-date details of all events.

  Eating & Drinking

  There are two good food courts: EAT and Made in Malaysia; the former includes an outlet of Kin Kin where you can sample supremely tasty pan mee ('dry' noodles). Other good places to eat and drink include the following:

  ABee ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6201 8577; thebee.com.my; 36b, level G2, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas 1, Solaris Dutamas; mains RM16-38; h10am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, 9am-1am Sat, 9am-midnight Sun; aW) A happening cafe-bar serving burgers, sandwiches, salads and fine coffee, and hosting events including live music, film screenings and open-mic nights.

  ANathalie's Gourmet Studio ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6207 9572; www.nathaliegourmetstudio.com; Unit A4-1-5, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; mains lunch RM22-28, dinner RM60-95; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm Thu-Sat; a) For delicious nouvelle cuisine and melting macarons. It also runs cooking classes.

  AJournal by Plan b ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://thebiggroup.co/planb; Lot 65, Level G2 Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas 1, Solaris Dutamas; mains RM10-33; h8am-11pm) A pile of chairs hanging from the ceiling and an old TV screening P Ramlee movies are part of the quirky decor at this upmarket branch of cafe-bar Plan b.

  There are also branches of reliable chains Ben's, The Social, Chawan and Wondermilk. For a caffeine fix, head to Coffee Stain by Joseph ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffeestain.my; Publika, 1 Jalan Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h8am-11pm; W).

  Shopping

  Rents are kept low to encourage new talents and retail ideas – look out for pop-up shops on the Level G2 Art Row. Ben's Independent Grocer (BIG; GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebiggroup.co/BIG; Lot 1A, 83-95, Level UG, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h9am-10pm) is a huge and creatively designed supermarket. There's a particularly good section of shops for children, including the arts-and-crafts workshop Artis Kids Store ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-1233 1233; www.artisworkshop.com; 48, Level G3, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; per 45min weekday RM45, weekend RM50; h10.30am-8pm).

  Fashionistas are well served by a good range of small boutiques, as well as major fashion retailer British India ( GOOGLE MAP ; Lot 20-22, Level G2, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri-Sun) and its youth-oriented offshoot Just B. Also check out White Elephant, where old British India stock is sold for knock-down prices, with the proceeds going to charity. Don't miss Shoes Shoes Shoes ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://shoesshoesshoes.com.my; Lot 16, G2, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h10am-10pm), a footwear emporium that also sells gorgeous accessories and bags as well as clothing by Malaysian designer Jonathan Liang's label d.d.collective.

  Browse Arcadia ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/arcadiakualalumpur; 10, Level 3, Publika, 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h10am-10pm) for retro knick-knacks and furnishings.

  Getting There & Away

  A taxi to Publika from Sentral KL/Bangsa
r should cost no more than RM12/7 on the meter.

  Day Trips from Kuala Lumpur

  Batu Caves

  This dramatic limestone crag riddled with caverns is both a natural marvel and religious site with its holy Hindu shrines and colourful dioramas.

  Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM)

  Switch track from the drone of city traffic and air-conditioning to birdsong and all-encompassing greenery at this jungle park.

  Bukit Fraser (Fraser's Hill)

  Breathe easy at this classic, colonial-era, high-altitude resort on the Selangor–Pahang border; it's also a top bird-spotting destination.

  Klang Valley

  Travel from city to coast, pausing at a range of fun attractions and sights including a giant water theme park, a mega-mosque and Klang’s vibrant Little India.

  Putrajaya

  Malaysia’s administrative hub is a showboat of daring contemporary and Islamic heritage architecture arranged around a pretty, artificial lake.

  TOP SIGHT

  Batu Caves

  JAREL REMICK/500PX ©

  One of Malaysia’s most iconic sights and holiest Hindu shrines, this complex of giant limestone caves houses temples that have been drawing pilgrims for more than 120 years. Home to a troop of cheeky macaques, the caves are always a colourful and fascinating place to visit, especially during the festival of Thaipusam when hundreds of thousands of pilgrims converge here.

  Temple Cave

  The so-called Temple Cave (h8am-8.30pm; dBatu Caves), actually two enormous caverns joined by a short flight of stairs, sits atop 272 steps populated by scampering macaque monkeys and is guarded by an impressive, 42.7m golden statue of Hindu God Lord Murugan, erected in 2006 and said to be the largest in the world. The dome-shaped cavern has been a Hindu shrine since K Thambusamy Pillai, founder of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in KL, placed a statue of Lord Murugan here in 1890.

  Inside the first cavern, at the top of the stairs, Murugan’s six abodes are carved into the walls. The second cavern holds the temple of Valli Devanai, Murugan’s wife. Murugan, son of Shiva and Hindu god of war, is widely worshipped in Hindu Tamil communities. Prayers are held at 8.30am and 4.30pm.

  Dark Cave

  At step 204 on the way up to the Temple Cave, branch off to the Dark Cave (%012-371 5001; www.darkcavemalaysia.com; adult/child RM35/25; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun; dBatu Caves) to join an excellent, 45-minute guided tour along 850m of the 2km of surveyed passageways within the cave complex. The tour takes you through seven different chambers where you can witness dramatic limestone formations, including gorgeous flowstones, see pits used for guano extraction, and possibly spot two species of bat and hundreds of other life forms, including the rare trapdoor spider.

  Tours run every 20 minutes and are organised by the Malaysian Nature Society. To get further into the cave on the three- to four-hour Adventure Tour you need a minimum of 10 people (RM80 per person); bookings must be made at least one week in advance.

  There is an interesting natural history gallery outside the cave with informative displays on the formation of the cave and its unique flora and fauna.

  Hindu statue, Batu Caves | R.NAGY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Ramayana Cave

  Perhaps no cave at Batu is more spectacularly embellished and enjoyable to visit than the Ramayana Cave (RM5; h8.30am-6pm; dBatu Caves), which boasts psychedelic dioramas of the Indian epic Ramayana. This cave is on the left as you come out of the train station.

  Near the entrance, look for the giant statue of Kumbhakarna, brother of Ravana and a deep sleeper (he once snoozed for six months). At the top of the towering cave interior is a shrine to a naturally occurring lingam, a stalagmite that is a symbol of Shiva.

  Muzium Orang Asli

  A trip to Batu Caves can easily be combined with a visit to the nearby Muzium Orang Asli ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jakao.gov.my; 24 Jln Pahang, Gombak; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) in the village of Gombak, 25km north of KL and around 9km from Batu Caves. This excellent museum is dedicated to Peninsular Malaysia's indigenous peoples, the Orang Asli. Exhibits over two floors highlight the 18 tribes' different traditions, beliefs and cultures, including their musical instruments, the importance of dreams and the distinct death rituals of the various groups. A gallery upstairs examines the Orang Asli's place in modern-day Malaysian politics and society.

  A taxi from the caves to the museum costs RM50; it's best to do the trip in this direction and ask the driver to wait as it's difficult to find a taxi at the museum.

  Zoo Negara

  Laid out over 62 hectares around a central lake, Zoo Negara (National Zoo; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4108 3422; www.zoonegaramalaysia.my; Jln Ulu Kelang; adult/child RM85/43; h9am-5pm; mWangsa Maju), 13km northeast of KL and 11km southeast of Batu Caves, is home to a wide variety of native wildlife, including tigers and other animals from other parts of Asia and Africa. One of the most popular new exhibits is the giant pandas. Although some of the enclosures could definitely be bigger, this is one of Asia’s better zoos.

  Top Tips

  ATo visit the Temple Cave, women must wear skirts or trousers that come below the knee. Sarongs are available to rent at the cave entrance for RM3.

  ABring water for the climb up to the Temple Cave, but keep any bottles or food out of sight of the monkeys.

  Take a Break

  The best of the restaurants and food stalls on the strip to the right of the Temple Cave is Restoran Rani (Batu Caves; mains RM6-12; h8am-9pm; v; dBatu Caves); head there for good-value vegetarian thali sets, rotis and dosas washed down with a refreshing coconut juice served straight from the nut.

  Monkeys

  Loitering in gangs on the steps up to the Temple Cave, the macaques of Batu Caves can seem by turn both adorable and menacing. But give them their space and you'll be fine. It goes without saying that feeding the monkeys is a bad idea, since it encourages aggressive behaviour. Avoid eating or carrying food as it might be stolen.

  Don't Miss

  ATemple Cave

  AGolden statue of Lord Murugan

  ADark Cave

  ARamayana Cave

  Practicalities

  A GOOGLE MAP

  AdBatu Caves

  TOP SIGHT

  Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM)

  Covering nearly 600 hectares, the Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) was established in 1929 to research the sustainable management of the country's forests. As well as being an active centre for scientific research, FRIM also functions as a giant park, with quiet roads for cycling and established trails through the jungle landscape. The highlight is a fabulous canopy walkway.

  Canopy Walkway

  Hanging a vertigo-inducing 30m above the forest floor, the 150m long canopy walkway (www.frim.gov.my; adult/child RM10/3; h9.30am-1.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun) takes you right into the trees, offering views of the rainforest and the towers of KL in the distance. It's reached by a steep, 900m trail from the tourist information office (%03-6279 7649; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.15pm & 2.45-5pm Fri, 9am-1.30pm & 2-3pm Sat & Sun), on the right off the main road 1km from the entrance gate.

  As you head down from the walkway, the trail picks its way through the jungle to a shady picnic area where you can cool off in a series of shallow waterfalls. The return hike, incorporating the walkway, takes around two hours.

  Forest Trails

  If you can get a group together, it's well worth hiring one of the park's experienced and knowledgeable guides (%03-6279 7045; www.frim.gov.my; FRIM; per group RM120) for a one- to two-hour tour of the three forest trails: the Salleh, Keruing and Engkabang trails.

  Because the forest is planned, it has some unusual quirks; the same species of trees were usually planted together, leading to the phenomenon of 'crown shyness' (certain species of tree never touch the leaves of another tree of the same species). On the Salleh trail look up for the National Geographic shot of the canopy of kapur trees and the maze of channel-like gaps between them.

&nb
sp; Museum & Cafe

  The oldest building at FRIM houses an interesting museum (www.frim.gov.my; h9am-noon & 2-4pm Sat-Thu, 9am-noon & 3-4pm Fri) with displays explaining the five forest types endemic to Malaysia, their different wood types and how they are used. Among the assorted items on display is a 60-year-old boat from Kelantan once used by the royal family. Upstairs a gallery highlights the forest-related research carried out by FRIM. In the section on the park's fauna, check out the gallery of forest bugs containing stick insects the length of your forearm.

  More than a hundred scientists are employed at FRIM, researching uses for the forest's flora. The products developed by the institute are displayed in the museum and a few of them, such as lemongrass soap and natural insect repellent, can be bought in the shop at the One Stop Centre.

  Head to Cafe Kasah (Sungai Kroh picnic area, FRIM; mains RM5-6; h7am-5pm) for nasi goreng and other local fare. Otherwise, bring your own picnic to enjoy by the Sungai Kroh waterfalls.

  Don't Miss

  ACanopy walkway

  AForest trails

  AMuseum

  Practicalities