Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Read online

  Argentines tend to celebrate their most honored national figures not on the date of their birth, but on the date of their death (after all, they're nobody when they're born). Nowhere is this obsession with mortality more evident than at Recoleta, where generations of the elite repose in the grandeur of ostentatious mausoleums. Real estate here is among Buenos Aires' priciest: there's a saying that goes, 'It is cheaper to live extravagantly all your life than to be buried in Recoleta.'

  It's not just being rich that gets you a prime resting spot here: your name matters. Those lucky few with surnames like Alvear, Anchorena, Mitre or Sarmiento are pretty much guaranteed to be laid down. Evita's remains are here (in the Duarte family tomb), but her lack of aristocracy and the fact that she dedicated her life to Argentina's poor infuriated the bigwigs.

  A larger and much less touristy graveyard is Cementerio de la Chacarita, located in the neighborhood of Chacarita. The cemetery opened in the 1870s to accommodate the yellow-fever victims of San Telmo and La Boca. Although much more democratic and modest, Chacarita's most elaborate tombs match Recoleta's finest. One of the most visited belongs to Carlos Gardel, the famous tango singer. Plaques from around the world cover the base of his life-size statue, many thanking him for favors granted. Gardel's statue often has a lit cigarette resting between its fingers, left there by the city's taxi drivers who come here on their breaks to listen to one of the crooner's songs and share a cigarette with him. The anniversaries of Gardel's birth and death days see packs of pilgrims jamming the cemetery's streets.

  Other famous Argentines buried in Chacarita include the poet Alfonsina Storni, the artist Benito Quinquela Martín and the composer Osvaldo Pugliese. To visit Chacarita, take Línea B of the Subte to the end of the line at Federico Lacroze and cross the street.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  From your breakfast coffee with medialunas to a late-night cocktail, there's no shortage of elegant cafes and swanky bars at which to wet your whistle.

  MiliónCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4815-9925; www.milion.com.ar; Paraná 1048; hnoon-2am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 8pm-2am Sun; bLínea D Callao)

  One of BA’s most elegant bars, this sexy spot takes up three floors of a renovated old mansion. The garden out back is a leafy paradise, overlooked by a solid balcony that holds the best seats in the house. Nearby marble steps are also an appealing place to lounge with a frozen mojito or basil daiquiri.

  Gran Bar DanzónBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4811-1108; www.granbardanzon.com.ar; Libertad 1161; h7pm-2am Mon-Fri, 8pm-2am Sat & Sun; bLínea D Tribunales)

  Upscale restaurant-wine bar with a good selection of wines by the glass as well as fresh fruit cocktails, exotic martinis and Euro- and Asian-inspired dinner selections. It’s very popular, so come early for happy hour and snag a good seat on a sofa.

  Pony Line BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4321-1200; www.elenaponyline.com; Four Seasons Hotel, Posadas 1086; h11am-1:30am Mon-Fri, 7pm-2:30am Sat, 5pm-12:30am Sun; g130, 62, 93)

  This sophisticated, upscale and polo-inspired bar is located in the five-star Four Seasons Hotel and attracts a well-heeled clientele. Drinks are top quality, from the craft beers to the exotic cocktails and fine international liquors; the food is good as well. Dress well, bring a fat wallet and come early if you'd like to avoid the crowds; otherwise reserve ahead.

  DJs play on Friday and Saturday nights, so it can get loud at times.

  La BielaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4804-0449; www.labiela.com; Av Quintana 600; h7am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; g130, 62, 93)

  A Recoleta institution, this classic cafe has been serving the porteño elite since the 1950s – when race-car champions used to frequent the place. The outdoor front terrace is unbeatable for a coffee or beer on a sunny afternoon. Just know that this privilege of seating here will cost 20% more.

  The huge gomero (rubber tree) opposite across from La Biela was planted by a Franciscan monk in around 1800.

  Clásica y ModernaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4812-8707; www.clasicaymoderna.com; Av Callao 892; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun; bLínea D Callao)

  Catering to the literary set since 1938, this cozy and intimate bookstore-restaurant-cafe oozes history from its atmospheric brick walls. It’s nicely lit, serves fine, simple meals and offers nightly live performances of folk music, jazz, bossa nova and tango (after 9pm). The late Mercedes Sosa, tango singer Susana Rinaldi and Liza Minnelli have all performed here.

  Buller Brewing CompanyMICROBREWERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4808-9061; www.bullerpub.com; Junín 1747; hnoon-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu & Sun, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; bLínea H Las Heras)

  Six kinds of beer are brewed on the premises at this industrial-style microbrewery incongruously located opposite Recoleta Cemetery. If you can't choose between the stout, IPA, Hefe Weizen, rubia, honey beer or amber, order a sampler of all six. There’s a great outdoor patio in front and an extensive menu of snacks and sandwiches. Also in Retiro.

  ShamrockCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4812-3584; www.theshamrock.com.ar; Rodríguez Peña 1220; hbar 6pm-3am Tue-Fri, 10pm-6:30am Sat, club midnight-5:30am Thu, 1am-6:45am Fri & Sat; bLínea D Callao)

  The Shamrock Basement is an unpretentious subterranean club known for its first-rate DJ line-ups, pounding house music and diverse young crowd. Thanks to the ever-popular Irish pub upstairs, the place sees plenty of traffic throughout the night. Come at 3am to see the club in full swing, or just descend the stairs after enjoying a few pints at ground level.

  Women beware: this is a serious pick-up joint.

  3Entertainment

  NotoriousJAZZ

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4813-6888; www.notorious.com.ar; Av Callao 966; h10pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 10pm-1:30am Fri, 5pm-1:30am Sat, 5pm-12:30am Sun; bLínea D Callao)

  This stylish, intimate joint is one of Buenos Aires’ premier jazz venues, with a restaurant-cafe (overlooking a verdant garden) hosting live shows nearly every night at 9:30pm. Check the website for schedules; most performances are jazz, but there's also blues and Brazilian music.

  Teatro ColiseoLIVE MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4814-3056; www.teatrocoliseo.org.ar; Marcelo T de Alvear 1125; bLínea D Tribunales)

  Classical music, jazz, ballet, opera and symphony orchestras entertain at this theater most of the year, but a few surprises – such as Argentine-American rock star Kevin Johansen – occasionally show up.

  7Shopping

  Exclusivity is the key word here. If you have the bucks and are willing to pay top dollar for the best-quality goods, then you’ll want to shop in these neighborhoods. The city’s best leather shops are based here, along with a few top fashion boutiques. Av Santa Fe is a catch-all for fashion, housewares and everything in between.

  oEl Ateneo Grand SplendidBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4813-6052; www.yenny-elateneo.com/local/grand-splendid; Av Santa Fe 1860; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun; bLínea D Callao)

  This glorious bookstore in a converted theater continues to flourish in the age of the Kindle. The Grand Splendid theater opened in 1919 and was converted into a bookstore in 2000. Most of the seating was replaced with bookshelves, but the original features have been preserved, including the beautiful painted cupola and balconies.

  Browse through potential purchases in one of the theater boxes or have a cup of coffee at the on-stage cafe.

  Comme Il FautSHOES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4815-5690; www.commeilfaut.com.ar; Arenales 1239, door 3, apt M; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; g111)

  If you're looking for quality tango shoes, this is the place to come. Not only are these shoes designed to withstand hours of dancing at the milonga, they're also beautiful to look at.

  Visiting the boutique is like entering a bygone age: allow plenty of time to try on shoe after shoe until – just like Cinderella – the perfect pair is f
ound.

  Feria Artesenal Plaza FranciaMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.feriaplazafrancia.com; Plaza Intendente de Alvear; h11am-7pm Sat & Sun; bLínea H Las Heras)

  Recoleta’s popular artisan fair has dozens of booths and a range of creative, homemade goods. Hippies, mimes and tourists mingle. It’s at its biggest on weekends, though there are usually a few stalls open during the week. Despite its name, the market is located just outside the Cementerio de la Recoleta in Plaza Intendente de Alvear.

  FueguiaPERFUME

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4311-5360; www.fueguia.com; Av Alvear 1680; h11am-8pm; g130, 62, 93)

  On Recoleta's most cheto (posh) avenue you'll find this suitably upmarket perfumery selling a large selection of in-house scents and candles. Pop in to smell the latest creations.

  MemorabiliaARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4811-7698; www.memorabiliabazar.com; Arenales 1170; h11am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, to 1:30pm Sat; g111)

  For unique, fun and handmade Argentine items, explore the corners of this tiny boutique. The stock is ever-changing, but can include such things as ceramic bowls and painted mugs, colorful jewelry in super-creative shapes and artsy notebooks. A good place to find small items easily packed into a suitcase for the flight back home.

  Galería Bond StreetMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://galeriabondstreet.com/; Av Santa Fe 1670; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Callao)

  For the edgiest tattoos and piercings in town, you can’t beat this grungy mall. BA's skateboarder-wannabes, along with their punk-rock counterparts, also come here to shop for the latest styles, sounds and bongs. Expect everything from Hello Kitty to heavy metal.

  Patio BullrichMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4814-7500; www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar; Av del Libertador 750; h10am-9pm; g130, 62, 93)

  Buenos Aires’ most exclusive shopping center once hosted livestock auctions, but these days it tends toward sales of Persian rugs, double-breasted tweed suits and Dior’s latest designs. Three floors hold fine boutiques such as Lacoste, Salvatore Ferragamo and Christian Lacroix, along with fancy coffee shops, a cinema complex and a food court.

  Buenos Aires DesignMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5777-6000; www.designrecoleta.com.ar; Av Pueyrredón 2501; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun; bLínea H Las Heras)

  Fashionable home furnishing, appliances and housewares can be found under one roof here. This is the ideal place to look for that snazzy light fixture, streamlined toilet or reproduction Asian chair, as well as cute decor and art objects.

  The Immortal Evita

  From her humble origins in the pampas to her rise to power beside President Juan Perón, María Eva Duarte de Perón is one of Argentina’s most revered political figures. Known affectionately as Evita, she is Argentina’s beloved First Lady.

  At the age of 15 Eva Duarte left her hometown of Junín for Buenos Aires, looking for work as an actor and eventually landing a job in radio. Her big chance came in 1944, when she attended a benefit at Buenos Aires’ Luna Park. Here Duarte met Colonel Juan Perón, who fell in love with her; they were married in 1945.

  Shortly after Perón won the presidency in 1946, Evita went to work in the office of the Department of Labor and Welfare. During Perón’s two terms, Evita empowered her husband both through her charisma and by reaching out to the nation’s poor, who came to love her dearly. She created the Fundación Eva Perón, which built housing for the poor, created programs for children, extended subsidies and distributed clothing and food to needy families. She fervently campaigned for the aged, urging her husband to add elderly rights to the constitution and successfully pushing through a law granting pensions to elderly people in need. She successfully advocated for a law extending suffrage to women.

  Perón won his second term in 1952, but that same year Evita – aged just 33 and at the height of her popularity – died of cancer. It was a blow to Argentina and to her husband’s presidency

  “Eva” by sculptor Alejandro Marmo and painter Daniel Santoro | MEUNIERD / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Although Evita is remembered for extending social justice to those she called the country’s descamisados (shirtless ones), her rule with Perón was hardly free from controversy. Together they ruled the country with an iron fist, jailing opposition leaders and closing opposition newspapers. When Time magazine referred to her as an ‘illegitimate child’, she banned the publication, and when she traveled to Europe in 1947 she was refused entrance to Buckingham Palace. However, there is no denying the extent to which she empowered women at all levels of Argentine society and helped the country’s poor.

  When Evita said, ‘I will come again, and I will be millions’ in a speech shortly before her death, she probably had no idea of her words’ prophetic truth. Today, she enjoys near-saint status and her image adorns the AR$100 bill (she is the first woman to appear on Argentine currency).

  Get to know her better at Museo Evita or visit her tomb in the Cementerio de la Recoleta. You can also read her autobiography La razón de mi vida (My Mission in Life; 1951).

  Eva Perón’s tomb in Cementerio de la Recoleta | FABRIZIO248 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Belgrano, Nuñez & the Costanera Norte

  Sights

  Eating

  Drinking & Nightlife

  Entertainment

  Shopping

  Sports & Activities

  Belgrano, Nuñez & the Costanera Norte

  Neighborhood Top Five

  1Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos Visiting the sobering Sitio de Memoria ESMA, now a memorial museum dedicated to the victims of the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983.

  2La Glorieta Dancing the tango – or watching it – at the most romantic milonga in BA.

  3Parque de la Memoria Taking a stroll next to the river at this park on the Costanera Norte.

  4Parque Norte Cooling off in the complex of swimming pools.

  5Museo Larreta Eyeballing classic Spanish art at the elegant former mansion of Hispanophile novelist Enrique Larreta.

  Explore: Belgrano, Nuñez & the Costanera Norte

  Bustling Av Cabildo, the racing heartbeat of Belgrano, is an overwhelming jumble of noise and neon. It's a two-way street of clothing, shoe and housewares shops. For a bit more peace and quiet, head to the blocks on either side of the avenue, where Belgrano becomes a leafy barrio of museums, plazas and good local eateries.

  A block east of Av Cabildo, the barrio's plaza is the site of the modest but fun Feria Plaza Belgrano. Just a few steps from the plaza is the Museo Histórico Sarmiento, which honors one of the most forward-thinking Argentines in history. Also close by is the Museo Larreta, a mansion with gorgeous art pieces and gardens. About five blocks north is yet another museum, the Museo Casa de Yrurtia, honoring the well-known Argentine sculptor.

  Four blocks northeast of Plaza Belgrano, French landscape architect Carlos Thays took advantage of the contours of Barrancas de Belgrano to create an attractive, green public space on one of the few natural hillocks in the city. The bandstand here hosts the popular outdoor milonga (tango event) La Glorieta.

  Across Juramento from Barrancas, BA's Chinatown fills three blocks on Arribeños. Don't come on Mondays, however, as many places are shut; do come on Chinese New Year, when festivities abound.

  From the Barrancas de Belgrano, take a bus or train into Nuñez to visit the museums of the Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos memorial site.

  Over on the Costanera Norte (take a bus here), Parque Norte, Parque de la Memoria and Tierra Santa are all located close to one another.

  Local Life

  AParklife Grab a picnic and head to the recently spruced-up Barrancas de Belgrano park, where retirees spend afternoons at the chess tables beneath the ombú tree, and on Saturday and Sunday evenings the bandstand hosts the romantic outdoor milonga (dance hall) La Glorieta.

  AMake a splash When temperatures rise, porteños head to Parque Norte to cool off in the pools.

  AMarkets On weekends, local
artisans flog their wares at the Feria Plaza Belgrano, a popular spot for shoppers and families with strollers.

  Getting There & Away

  ASubte Take Línea D Juramento.

  ABus Take the 29 or 55 from Palermo and the 29 from the Center.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  Along Av Costanera Rafael Obligado on the Costanera Norte you'll find 24-hour food trucks selling cheap and tasty choripanes (sausage sandwiches) and bondiola (pork sandwiches). Take in the river views and the drone of planes (the food stands are opposite an airport runway) alongside fishermen and families picnicking on deckchairs by their cars.

  Best Museums

  A Sitio de Memoria ESMA

  A Museo Larreta

  A Museo Casa de Yrurtia

  Best Entertainment

  A La Glorieta

  A River Plate

  1Sights

  Belgrano is home to a cluster of interesting little museums, the Barrancas de Belgrano park and a compact Chinatown, all within easy walking distance of Juramento Subte station. Head to the Costanera Norte for a number of family-friendly sights including a water park.

  Located right on the city's northern boundary in Nuñez, the Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos is a sombre but fascinating complex of museums well worth visiting if you are interested in Argentina's recent history and the ground-breaking work of the country's human rights organizations.