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  oDouar SamraRIAD€€

  (%0524 48 40 34; www.douar-samra.net; Tamartert; per person incl half-board Dh485-715; W)

  At the eastern end of the valley in Tamartert, a trail zigzags among low-slung houses made of pisé; the triple-decker one is Douar Samra. Take the hewn stone steps to candlelit, wood-beamed guest rooms – one of which occupies a treehouse. Donkeys deliver luggage, but there’s wi-fi in the organic garden and aperitifs with terrace sunsets.

  Kasbah ImlilGUESTHOUSE€€

  (www.kasbah-imlil.com; r €20-45; aW)

  Kasbah Imlil has four handsomely furnished rooms, nicely kitted out with tapestries and warm, earthy hues; two have balconies. You can unwind in the lounge amid Berber rugs and finely crafted lanterns.

  Riad Dar ImlilGUESTHOUSE€€€

  (%0524 48 49 17; www.darimlil.com; d Dh800-1500; aW)

  Marrakesh style heads for the mountains at this 20-room stone guesthouse. Bedrooms are comfortable and climate-controlled with hewn wood furnishings, wrought-iron windows and modern en suite with complimentary babouches and warm woollen jellabas (garments). Cheaper rooms facing the courtyard are quieter but darker; there’s dining on the terrace or by the salon fireplace.

  Kasbah du ToubkalHERITAGE HOTEL€€€

  (%0524 48 56 11; www.kasbahdutoubkal.com; dm incl breakfast €40, d €130-250, ste €340-440, villa €820; W)S

  This converted historic kasbah, at 1800m, lords it over Imlil with grand views over the mountainous landscape. The 11 bedrooms range from quaintly cute to kasbah cool, and ‘Berber salons’ allow families and groups to bunk communally. Traditional hammam, mountain guides, board games and tasty meals (prix-fixe dinner €20) are on offer.

  Minimum two nights in high season. A 5% community tariff has helped build several boarding schools and supply two ambulances.

  5Eating

  Cafe Atlas ToubkalCAFE€

  (mains Dh40-150; h8am-midnight; W)

  This well-placed eatery in Imlil has a bit of everything: pizzas, brochettes, cakes and the town's best coffees. Head up to the roof deck for superb views over the landscape.

  Patisserie La Maison des AssociationPASTRIES€

  (snacks from Dh4; h10am-7pm)

  Follow your nose to this tiny pastry shop hidden behind the main street for melt-in-your-mouth, almond-flavoured biscuits and honey sweets baked daily by Berber village girls. Supported by the Kasbah Toubkal, this local association helps villagers learn and perfect new skills.

  8Information

  Bureau Des GuidesTOURIST INFORMATION

  (%0524 48 56 26; www.bureaudesguidesimlil.com; h8am-7pm; W)

  This information bureau is open daily during the season. If you arrive without having made arrangements, head here and let them know your requirements and they'll hook you up with a guide for a fixed-price rate (Dh300/400 per half/full day). Guides speak a range of languages, including French, English, German and Spanish.

  Trekking maps (Dh80) and free wi-fi are available, and you can leave luggage here (Dh20).

  Aroumd

  For Berber hospitality above the trekker fray, head 3km up to the hilltop village of Aroumd (also called Armed). You could take the drivable piste from Imlil, but the walking path passes a burbling stream, stone houses and shady orchards.

  4Sleeping

  Les Roches Armed/Chez LahcenRIAD€

  (%0667 64 49 15; [email protected]; dm/d per person incl half-board Dh100/200)

  Atop Aroumd, guests enjoy 360-degree mountain views, admire courtyard gardens, and chat by the living-room fireplace before retreating to private rooms with tataoui (woven palm) ceilings or clean dorms. Five shared bathrooms come with hot showers. Hearty High Atlas cooking is served on Berber crockery.

  Gîte Le Toubkal ArmedGUESTHOUSE€

  (Chez Hadj Omar; %0670 41 26 75; r per person without bathroom Dh60, incl half-board Dh200)

  This well-kept place has simple but comfortably set dorms, with three to six beds in each. The best feature is the tree-lined courtyard patio, which makes a fine place to unwind after a day of hiking.

  Dar Warawte/Chez Omar JellahRIAD€

  (%0670 41 46 23; [email protected]; per person with/without bathroom Dh300/100)

  Ideal for families trekking together, this unfussy guesthouse is a fully equipped apartment downstairs from the family home of English-speaking guide Omar Jellah. Through arched doorways is a salon, stucco-edged bedrooms and an enviable kitchen. There's also an upstairs room with en suite.

  Jebel Toubkal Ascent

  North Africa’s tallest peak, Jebel Toubkal (4167m) doesn’t require climbing experience. In summer, anyone in good physical condition can reach the summit. In early October runners of the Toubkal Marathon (www.toubkaltrail.com; hOct) scamper 42km up and down Jebel Toubkal. For extreme ultramarathoners, the organisers tacked a 106km High Atlas trail onto the marathon, calling it the Toubkal Trail.

  Although the 3313m ascent from Imlil isn’t technically difficult, challenges include Toubkal’s fast-changing climate, steep slopes of volcanic scree, and altitude sickness. Hikers should factor in sufficient time to ascend slowly and steadily; for a more leisurely ascent, camp en route at Sidi Chamharouch. An ascent of Toubkal can be combined with satellite peaks, and very fit trekkers ascend Ouanoukrim (4088m) as well.

  THE TREK AT A GLANCE

  Duration Two days

  Distance 22km

  Standard Medium to hard

  Start/Finish Imlil village

  Highest Point Jebel Toubkal (4167m)

  Accommodation Camping and mountain refuges

  Public Transport Yes

  Summary The most popular walk in the High Atlas, with magnificent views. The route is straightforward, but the trek up the scree slope is hard, and trekkers can be struck with altitude sickness. The trek is best in summer and autumn, but check conditions before departure – there can be snow even in June.

  Day 1: Imlil To Toubkal Refuge

  Duration five to six hours / Distance 10km / Ascent 1467m

  Ideally leave Imlil early morning – it’s uphill all the way, with little shade past Aroumd. Follow the dirt track leading to Aroumd (Armed) past the Kasbah du Toubkal. Beyond the kasbah, the path zigzags steeply upwards to rejoin the road at Aroumd, where towering slopes begin to close around you.

  Past Aroumd, cross the stony valley floor and follow the well-defined mule trail uphill towards a very large rock above the eastern side of the Assif Reraya, which leads to the hamlet and marabout of Sidi Chamharouch (2310m). Beyond the marabout, to the left of the track, are cascades, pools and a prime picnic spot in the shady overhang of the rocks.

  After crossing the river by the bridge at Sidi Chamharouch, the rocky path veers away from the river for 2km and zigzags above the valley floor. It then levels off, before rejoining the course of the river. The Toubkal Refuge is visible for an hour before you reach it, immediately below the western flank of Jebel Toubkal.

  Day 2: The Ascent

  Duration nine hours / distance 12km / Ascent & descent 960m

  Set off as early as possible to avoid climbing in the sun – there is no shade, only rocks – and be sure to dress warmly and pack extra water and snacks. If you’ve trekked here directly from Imlil, you may not be acclimatised, so walk at a steady, slow pace to avoid altitude sickness. If you experience severe headache or vomiting, descend immediately. However tempting, do not lie down to sleep on the slope.

  Two cwms (valleys formed by glacial activity) run down the western flank of Toubkal, divided by the west-northwest ridge, which leads down from the summit. The southern cwm is the more usual route, and starts immediately below the refuge to the left, where you cross the river and head eastwards to the scree slope.

  Start to climb the well-defined path to the left of the slope, cross the field of boulders, then follow the path that zigzags up to Tizi n’Toubkal (3940m), straight ahead on the skyline. From there the path turns left (northeast) and follows the ridge to the summit (4167m).
Allow up to four hours to reach the top, depending on your fitness and weather conditions.

  Stick to the same route coming down, bearing left when the refuge comes into view. The descent to the refuge should only take 2½ hours, after which you can return to Armoud or Imlil. If you are planning on spending a second night at the refuge, you could come down the longer route via the Ihibi sud (south) circuit. It’s a straightforward four-hour walk down to the refuge for well-earned congratulations and celebratory chocolate.

  BEFORE YOU GO: TOUBKAL SUMMIT CHECKLIST

  Maps The same maps are recommended as for the Toubkal Circuit.

  Water Purifying locally sourced water is a more responsible alternative than bottled water, but don’t count on finding available water sources between June and October.

  Guide Although the route is marked, a guide is recommended for the ascent, especially for inexperienced mountaineers and in variable conditions from October to June.

  Food Meals and snacks are available at Toubkal Refuge and Refuge Mouflon, but you can also find lunch supplies in Imlil and a wide selection of portable snacks in Marrakesh supermarkets.

  Mule For this two-day trek with limited gear requirements, most experienced trekkers won’t require a mule. If you would prefer one, guides can organise mules and muleteers for you.

  Gear Bring a sleeping bag. You won’t need a tent, unless you’d rather camp than stay at refuges – just ask your guide to arrange tents in advance.

  Toubkal Circuit

  Beyond the majestic peaks and fabulous views of Jebel Toubkal, this circuit offers fascinating glimpses into Berber life in remote High Atlas villages. You will need camping gear for this route, though with short detours you could use basic village accommodation and mountain refuges.

  Since this trek is fairly strenuous, you might want an extra rest day. The ascent of Jebel Toubkal takes place on the sixth day, allowing five days of acclimatisation to altitude. Most of the route is above 2000m, with several passes over 3000m.

  Late April to late June is ideal: alpine flowers bloom April to May, and by June daytime temperatures are pleasantly warm. Temperatures often drop below freezing November to May, and snow covers higher peaks and passes. Only lower-valley walking is possible during this season, unless you’re prepared to bring ropes and crampons.

  Midsummer guarantees long daylight hours and snow-free passes (though not always a snow-free Toubkal), but in the lower valleys temperatures can be extremely hot and water nonexistent. July and August are the busiest months in the High Atlas, but trekking is best done early morning and later in the afternoon.

  Flash flooding can occur in summer after thunderstorms – something to bear in mind when deciding where to camp. Rivers have maximum flow in autumn (November) and late spring (April or May).

  THE TREK AT A GLANCE

  Duration Seven to 10 days

  Distance 60.2km

  Standard Medium to hard

  Start/Finish Imlil village

  Highest Point Jebel Toubkal (4167m)

  Accommodation Camping, village gîtes and mountain refuges

  Public Transport Yes

  Summary Easily accessible from Marrakesh, this circuit around (and up) Jebel Toubkal passes through landscapes ranging from lush, cultivated valleys and Berber villages to forbidding peaks and bleak passes. This is a demanding trek, with long, gruelling climbs over rocky terrain. A guide is highly recommended, fitness essential.

  Day 1: Imlil to Tacheddirt

  Duration 3½ to 4½ hours / Distance 9.5km / Ascent 560m

  Much of the first day's relatively gentle route follows the road linking Imlil (1740m) to the village of Ouaneskra, 2km west of Tacheddirt (2300m). The road climbs gently eastwards zigzagging up to Aït Souka.

  After an hour, just past a stream known as Talat n’Aït Souka, you can either take the road north directly to the pass at Tizi n’Tamatert (2279m), or follow a fairly well defined but rocky path east, skirting Tamatert village. The rocky path continues eastwards for 15 minutes, passing through a small pine grove and crossing the road, before climbing steeply northeast to reach Tizi n’Tamatert. The walk up takes 30 to 45 minutes.

  At the pass is Bivi Thé, a weather-beaten shack selling pricey soft drinks. To the northeast are great views of Tizi n’Eddi (2960m), the pass leading to Oukaïmeden, and Tizi n’Tacheddirt (3230m).

  The path and tarmac meet at Tizi n’Tamatert, where it’s an easy 45-minute walk to Ouaneskra. Along this stretch you’ll be treated to views across the valley to neat Berber houses and lush terraces in Talate n’Chaoute, Tamguist and Ouaneskra.

  Shortly before Ouaneskra, the path divides. The mule track to the right traverses the southern side of the valley to an ideal camping place near the track, close to the Irhzer n’Likemt stream and the starting place for the next day’s climb.

  The longer route via Ouaneskra and Tacheddirt takes the northern side of the valley after crossing Tizi n’Tamatert. There are three gîtes in Ouaneskra and a pleasant little restaurant – but tomorrow’s walk is long, so it’s best to have lunch and carry on. The village of Tacheddirt is 2km further along the tarmac road. In Tacheddirt, 50 people can sleep at Tigmi Tacheddirt (%0662 10 51 69; www.highatlaslodges.com; per person incl half-board Dh200). From Tacheddirt, the hiking track loops south, up to the campsite near Irhzer n’Likemt.

  Day 2: Tacheddirt to Azib Likemt

  Duration five to six hours / Distance 9km / Ascent 1200m / Descent 900m

  Leave Tacheddirt early to make the two- to three-hour walk up to Tizi Likemt (3550m), winding around the head of the valley on a more gentle ascent instead of heading straight down and across the Assif n’Imenane and up past the campsite. Though the walk is mostly shaded by mountain shadows in the morning, it’s a hard climb, especially a very steep scree slope towards the top.

  Close to the campsite, a well-defined rocky path heads up the centre of the gully on the east side of the riverbed (though it crosses over twice). It climbs for about 50 minutes before bearing left (southeast) up to the col (pass). Atop Tizi Likemt are views of verdant valleys and jagged peaks, including Oukaïmeden and Jebel Toubkal on clear days.

  The rocky path leading down the other side (southeast) passes a semipermanent water source on the left after 30 minutes, and irrigated pastures above Azib Likemt after another hour. An azib is a summer settlement, and Azib Likemt (2650m) is occupied from May through October by local people growing crops on irrigated terraces.

  You may be offered shelter or a place to pitch your tent in Azib Likemt. Otherwise, walk through terraces down to the Assif Tifni, cross the river, turn right and walk upstream to a group of large boulders, where you’ll find a flat campsite close to the river.

  Day 3: Azib Likemt To Amsouzert

  Duration six to 6½ hours / Distance 15.2km / Ascent 470m / Descent 1380m

  This direct route south to Amsouzert is less demanding, but offers some good ridge walking. From Azib Likemt, the well-worn trail leads behind the campsite south, up the mountainside and into the tremendous gorge formed by Assif n’Tinzer. Above the river’s eastern bank, the trail snakes above the Tombe Asmine waterfall before descending close to the river. Follow the river for about two hours past stunning cliffs and through wide pastures, until an obvious track leads up the valley to Tizi n’Ououraïne (3120m; also known as Tizi n’Ouaraï) and brilliant views of the eastern face of Toubkal, Dôme d’Ifni (3876m) and the rest of the jagged Toubkal massif.

  Continue over the col, where the trail traverses the head of the valley to a spur and trail crossroads. Heading southwest, a trail leads down the ridge to Tagadirt (after 50m there’s a fantastic viewpoint south to Jebel Siroua), but turn left (southeast) and follow the mule track south. Traverse the head of another valley and along the side of a spur to reach the ridge after 90 minutes; Lac d’Ifni is visible to the west. After a further 15 minutes, just before two pointed outcrops, the path forks. Turn right and continue descending slowly southwards to a large cairn. Descend southwest, th
en west down the end of the spur to Amsouzert (1797m) in 30 minutes.

  Amsouzert is a prosperous village spread on both sides of the river. If you’re planning a rest day, this is an excellent place to take it. Next to the school is an outdoor tearoom shaded by an enormous walnut tree where you may able to camp (Amsouzert; per tent Dh30). Otherwise, you can stay at Gîte Himmi Omar (Amsouzert; dm Dh60).

  In Amsouzert there are small shops, a couple of cafes west of the river and early morning transport to the N10 highway connecting Marrakesh and Ouarzazate. About 3km south of Amsouzert is another village called Imlil (not to be confused with the Imlil trailhead on the northern side of the range), which hosts a wildly popular Wednesday souq.

  Day 4: Amsouzert To Azib Imi n'Ouassif

  Duration 5½ to six hours / Distance 10.5km / Ascent 1100m

  Between November and June, mules will not make it much beyond Lac d’Ifni, the largest lake in the High Atlas, which means you’ll have to carry your kit to Azib Imi n’Ouassif over Tizi n’Ouanoums (3600m) to Toubkal Refuge.

  From Amsouzert follow the level, well-used 4WD track that continues northwest towards Lac d’Ifni above the north side of the river. The path takes you through the villages of Ibrouane, Takatert and Tisgouane before reaching Aït Igrane, where there are a couple of cafes and Gîte Belaïde (Aït Igrane; dm Dh60). There is also a shady campsite (Aït Igrane; campsite Dh40) on a flat, stony site just beyond the Café Toubkal, with a cold shower and toilet.