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  Buddhist Maha ViharaBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 1141; www.buddhistmahavihara.org; 123 Jln Berhala; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  Founded in 1894 by Sinhalese settlers, this is one of KL's major Theravada Buddhist temples. It's a particular hive of activity around Wesak Day, the Buddha's birthday, when a massive parade with multiple floats starts from here before winding round the city.

  Meditation classes take place on Monday and Thursday at 8pm on a by-donation basis.

  Vivekananda AshramHISTORIC BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 220 Jln Tun Sambanthan; dKL Sentral)

  This historic ashram, built in 1904 and part of the global Ramakrishna movement, is a well-loved subject for photographers. It offers courses in yoga, as well as various social programs for the underprivileged. After the board of trustees sold the surrounding land, a campaign to save the ashram led to the government granting the building national heritage status in 2016, protecting it from developers.

  Sri Sakthi Vinayagar TempleTEMPLE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Berhala; h6am-noon & 5.30-9.30pm; DTun Sambanthan)

  The original shrine for Lord Vinayagar (the remover of obstacles) in Brickfields was a squatter shack on Jln Sultan Abdul Samad. Such was the humble start of many temples in this immigrant community. It's still rather simple but there is a tender devotional atmosphere to the place, and one statue of Lord Vinayagar inside is made of bananas and brown sugar.

  The current temple (in essence an open colonnaded, or hypostyle, gallery) on Jln Berhala is reached via a short staircase from the street.

  Kwong Tong CemeteryCEMETERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ktc.org.my; h8.30am-4.30pm; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  This fascinating cemetery lies directly south of the Royal Museum and is notable not just for its immense size (333 hectares of rolling grassy hills and fragrant frangipani trees) but also for the many notables buried within. These include Kapitan Yap Ah Loy, founder of KL. There are also memorials to WWII dead. Pick up a map at the cemetery office.

  Take a taxi from KL Sentral.

  Sree Veera Hanuman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.veerahanuman.com; Jln Scott; h7am-9pm; DTun Sambanthan)

  Honouring Hanuman, this temple has been under reconstruction for years, and should be a striking sight when its gopura (gateway) is revealed: the tower rises with the coiled tail of the monkey god. Various puja (special prayer) services happen here – check the website for details.

  Don't confuse this temple with the Sri Maha Muneswar to the left or the shrine to Krishna to the right (though both are worth a look, too).

  Little India FountainFOUNTAIN

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Tun Sambanthan & Jln Travers; dKL Sentral)

  This eye-catching fountain is the focal point of KL's official 'Little India'. Symbolic elements in the fountain's design include elephants, swans, lotuses and seven different colours. Flanking the fountain are two abstract metal sculptures of Bharatanatyam dancers created by Sculpture at Work (http://sculptureatwork.com).

  2Neighbourhood Walk

  Brickfields' Temples & Street Food

  Start KL Sentral Monorail Station

  End Tun Sambanthan Monorail

  Length 3.3km; two hours

  From the station walk one block west along Jln Tun Sambanthan to the 1Ammars, where you can pick up a lentil vadai (fritter), prepared street-side in a giant wok. Continue on past sari shops to the 2Vivekananda Ashram, built in 1904 and recently granted heritage status to protect it from developers.

  At the next corner, cross the road to see the 3Little India Fountain. Continue along Jln Tun Sambanthan, with its decorative arches, passing jewellery shops and video shops with competing sound systems blasting out Indian pop music. On the right, follow the scent of jasmine to find an alley of 4garland stalls; pause to watch the stall holders skilfully weave the brightly coloured flowers into garlands used in religious ceremonies.

  Cross Jln Tun Sambanthan. At the corner with Jln Sultan Abdul Samad, look for a series of 5murals depicting the history of Brickfields. Walk down Jln Sultan Abdul Samad, taking the second turning on the right on to Jln Berhala to the 6Buddhist Maha Vihara.

  Continue on, passing a traditional Malay wooden house at number 120, to the 7Temple of Fine Arts on the right. Here you can stop for lunch at 8Annalakshmi. Take the next turning on the right and loop up; on your left, beneath a tree, is the 9Sri Maha Kaaliamman shrine, while opposite it on your right is the aSri Sakthi Vinayagar Temple.

  Turn right on to Jln Sultan Abdul Samad and at the pedestrian bridge cross over to the bTamil Lutheran Church. Backing up, turn right and then right again onto Jln Thambapillai. Stop to look inside the cSam Kow Tong Chinese Temple. Pass dBrickfields Pisang Goreng and the eABC stall, sampling the goods on the way, and walk down Jln Padang Belia. Turn left on to Jln Tun Sambanthan 3, and right on to Jln Scott. Follow the road down past the fWei-Ling Gallery, gSree Veera Hanuman Temple and Indian sweet stalls to the impressive hSri Kandaswamy Temple. From here turn right down Jln Tebing until you reach Tun Sambanthan station.

  5Eating

  5Lake Gardens

  Kompleks Makan TanglinHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Cenderasari; meals RM5-10; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; dKuala Lumpur)

  This small hawker complex up the hill behind Masjid Negara is a popular lunch spot for nearby workers and local families visiting the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park. Try the nasi lemak, Hokkien mee, or ikan bakar (grilled fish).

  oRebungMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2276 3535; www.restoranrebungdatochefismail.com; 5th fl, 1 Jln Tanglin, Perdana Botanical Garden; buffet lunch/dinner RM42/53; h8am-10pm; aW; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  Occupying the top level of a multistorey car park overlooking the Botanical Garden, flamboyant celebrity chef Ismail's restaurant Rebung is one of KL's best. The seemingly endless buffet spread is splendid, with all kinds of dishes that you'd typically only be served in a Malay home. Herbs grown on the terrace are used in the recipes. Book ahead at weekends.

  Ask staff for help identifying the food: start by loading your plate with rice and then work your way round the spread of vegetable, meat and fish dishes and fiery sambals. Don't miss the additional food stations outside for noodles, barbecued fish and banana fritters. Go hungry! Get a taxi from Masjid Jamek.

  Hornbill RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2693 8086; www.klbirdpark.com; KL Bird Park, 920 Jln Cenderawasih; mains RM17-30; h9am-7.30pm; W; dKuala Lumpur)

  Providing a ringside view of the feathered inhabitants of KL Bird Park, this rustic place offers good food without fleecing the tourists too much. Go local with its nasi lemak (rice boiled in coconut milk, served with fried anchovies and peanuts) and fried noodles, or please the kids with fish and chips or the homemade chicken or beef burgers.

  Colonial CafeMALAYSIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2785 8000; www.majestickl.com; Majestic Hotel, 5 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; mains RM60-170; hnoon-2.30pm, 3-6pm & 6.30-11pm; dKuala Lumpur)

  British-Malay cuisine, as interpreted by Hainanese chefs of yore, is on the menu at this elegant restaurant in the heritage wing of the Majestic, probably the best spot in KL to feel the privilege and grace of the colonial era. Highlights of the menu include the chicken rice served Melaka style, and the Hainanese chicken chop.

  In the attached tea lounge you can enjoy a very fancy afternoon tea (RM60), which can also be served in the luscious orchidarium (RM110). Book ahead.

  5Brickfields & Around

  oLawanya Food CornerINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-220 2117; 1077/8 Lg Scott; meals RM8; h6am-4pm; DKL Sentral)

  Don't be put off by the low-key appearance of this simple joint with a few ramshackle tables lined up against a lime green wall under a sheet of corrugated iron. The same family has been preparing delicious curries here for more than 30 years, with a spread of meat and vegetarian dishes served from clay pots. />
  Rice and three types of vegetables costs RM6, add meat for RM8.

  VishalINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 1995; 22 Jln Scott; meals from RM6; h7.30am-10.45pm; v; DTun Sambanthan)

  Sit at one of the tables and allow the army of servers to dollop out the great-tasting food on to a banana leaf for you. If you're hungry, supplement the standard meal with a good range of side dishes or a huge mound of chicken biryani. Good for tiffin snacks and a refreshing lassi, too.

  Annalakshmi Vegetarian RestaurantINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 0799; www.facebook.com/AnnalakshmiVegetarianRestaurantKualaLumpur; Temple of Fine Arts, 116 Jln Berhala; dinner mains RM10-18; h11.30am-3pm & 6.30-10pm Tue-Sun; v; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  Inside the fancy main hall at the Temple of Fine Arts, this well-regarded vegetarian restaurant has set prices at night and a daily lunch buffet for RM18 (RM20 Friday to Sunday); or you can eat at the humbler Annalakshmi Riverside next to the car park behind the main building, where it's 'eat as you wish, give as you feel'.

  Ikan Bakar Jalan BellamyHAWKER$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Bellamy; meals RM10; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat; DTun Sambanthan)

  When the king lived nearby it was said he occasionally sent his minions to get an order of grilled stingray from one of the justifiably popular barbecued-fish hawker stalls on the hill behind the former royal palace. There’s little to choose between the three of them; wander around and see what takes your fancy.

  oRestoran YarlSRI LANKAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.yarl.com.my; 50 Jln Padang Belia; meals RM10-15; h7am-10pm Tue-Sun; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  This simple restaurant in Brickfields serves tasty Tamil dishes from northern Sri Lanka. Help yourself from clay pots of spicy mutton, chicken and fish peratal (dry curry), squid curry, aubergine sothi (mild curry with coconut milk) and vegetable dishes. Don't miss the house speciality, crab curry – try a ladle of the sauce if you don't fancy grappling with claws.

  Jassal Tandoori RestaurantINDIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 6801; 84 Jln Tun Sambanthan; dishes RM17-37; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri-Sun; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  Jassal serves great-tasting tandoori specialities, what must be the city's best dhal makhani (thick dark spicy lentils), and a load of other dishes including a variety of naans, rotis and parathas. Cheap Indian beer is also on offer. At the entrance to the restaurant is Jesal Sweet House, a counter selling delicious North Indian sweets.

  Gem RestaurantINDIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2260 1373; 124 Jln Tun Sambanthan; mains RM10-24; h11.30am-5pm & 6.15-11pm; a; DKL Sentral)

  A Brickfields stalwart, this calm, air-conditioned restaurant serves good South Indian food, including specialities from Chettinad, Andhra Pradesh and the Malabar coast. The thali is great value.

  Siu SiuCHINESE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %016-370 8555; 15-11 Lg Syed Putra Kiri; mains RM40-60; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun; DTun Sambathan)

  On the way to Kwong Tong Cemetery from Thean Hou Temple, this is a very good no-frills, partly al fresco place. Order the milk curry prawns with buns to soak up the tasty gravy, or any type of fish.

  Robson Heights Seafood RestaurantCHINESE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 6216; 10b Jln Permai, off Jln Syed Putra; mains RM30-60; h11am-3pm & 5.30-11pm; DTun Sambanthan)

  Folks drive from far and wide to feast on the top-class food served at this rickety hillside joint. While its specialities such as stir-fried pig intestines with dried prawn and chilli, braised terrapin, or Marmite crab may not appeal to all, we can vouch for the delicious baked spare ribs in honey sauce and stir-fried udon noodles in black pepper sauce.

  5Bangsar

  oBangsar Sunday MarketHAWKER$

  (Pasar Malam; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; car park east of Jln Telawi 2; hawker food RM4-6; h1-9pm Sun; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  This weekly market, though mostly for fresh produce, is also a fine hawker food-grazing zone. Stalls sell satay and a variety of noodles including asam laksa (laksa with a prawn paste and tamarind-flavoured gravy), chee cheong fun (rice noodles) and fried kway teow.

  You'll also find popiah and dim sum stalls as well as traditionally prepared putu bambu – rice flour with pandan and gula melaka (palm sugar) steamed inside hollow bamboo and covered with desiccated coconut.

  oSri Nirwana MajuINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2287 8445; 43 Jln Telawi 3; meals RM5-16; h10am-2am; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  There are far flashier Indian restaurants in Bangsar, but who cares about the decor when you can tuck into food this good and cheap? It serves it all, from roti for breakfast to banana-leaf curries throughout the day.

  ChawanMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2287 5507; 69g Jln Telawi 3; mains RM13-24; h8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  A contemporary take on a kopitiam (coffee shop) offering megastrength coffees from all of the country’s states to wash down dishes such as beef rendang and brown-paper-wrapped nasi lemak. There's also a branch in Publika.

  Restaurant MahbubINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2095 5382; www.restoranmahbub.com; 17 Lg Ara Kiri 1; mains RM7-15; h7am-2am; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Tables spill out on to the street from this long-running operation famous for its luscious honey chicken biryani.

  Nasi Kandar PelitaMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2282 5532; www.pelita.com.my; 2 Jln Telawi 5; mains RM10-25; h24hrs; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Serves mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food, including roti canai and hariyali tikka (spiced chicken with mint, cooked in the tandoor).

  Jaslyn CakesBAKERY$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2202 2868; www.jaslyncakes.com; 7a Jln Telawi 2; cakes per portion RM3-10; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  This tiny bakery is justifiably popular for its exquisite cakes made with free-range eggs and organic flour. Also sells delicious pastries, breads and biscuits.

  oSouthern Rock SeafoodSEAFOOD$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2856 2016; www.southernrockseafood.com; 34 Jln Kemuja; mains RM28-65; h10am-10pm; W; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  The fishmonger to some of KL's top restaurants has opened its own operation and it's a corker. The fish and seafood – in particular the wide range of oysters – is top quality, simply prepared to allow the flavours to sing. The blue-and-white decor suggests nights spent on the sparkling Med rather than the muddy Sungai Klang.

  Ashley's By Living FoodINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-325 3663; www.ashleys.my; 11 Jln Telawi 3; mains RM18-78; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-midnight Sat & Sun; v; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Although not exclusively vegetarian, this arty, rustic place is where you can sample inventive and well-prepared veg-only dishes such as vegan laksa. They take care to use organic ingredients where possible and serve other rarities (for KL) such as gluten-free chocolate cake and 'raw food' cooked at under 40°C to preserve nutrients, texture and taste.

  NutmegINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2201 3663; www.facebook.com/nutmegkl; Bangsar Village II, 2 Jln Telawi 1; mains RM18-55; h9.30am-10pm; W; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  The closest thing you're going to get to a Jewish deli in KL, this popular cafe makes an impression with its bagel and lox and salt beef hash, as well as other comfort foods and cakes.

  Yeast BistronomyFRENCH$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2282 0118; www.yeastbistronomy.com; 24g Jln Telawi 2; mains lunch RM15-45, dinner RM32-118; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; W; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Justifiably popular for its range of breads, croissants and tarts, Yeast is the best place in town for French-style baked goods. As well as selling pastries, loaves and sandwiches to take away, the bistro serves breakfasts, lunches of salads and savoury tarts, and dinners of seafood stews, boeuf bourguignon and steak tartare. There is also a branch at Mid Valley Megamall.


  WondermamaMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2284 9821; http://wondermama.co; Bangsar Village I, 1 Jln Telawi 1; mains RM13-27; h9am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri-Sun; W; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Traditional meets contemporary at this family-friendly two-level restaurant serving Malaysian food with a modern twist. There's also a branch in Avenue K at the KLCC.

  G3 Kitchen & BarINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Jln Telawi 3; mains RM29-35; h10.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-11.30pm Sat & Sun; W; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  A casual indoor vibe, deck seating, excellent wood-fired pizzas, and made-from-scratch burgers and sandwiches make this bistro a popular hang-out on one of Bangsar's busier strips.

  House+Co KitchenINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2094 3139; www.houseandco.com.my; Bangsar Shopping Centre, 285 Jln Maarof; mains RM20; h11am-11pm; W; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  One of the best places to eat if you're at the Bangsar Shopping Centre mall, this laid-back cafe makes great local dishes – try the delicious kway teow soup or the spicy mee hoon kerabu (rice noodle salad), and come hungry as the portions are huge.