Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Read online

  ASubte Línea C connects Retiro with the Center and the western edge of San Telmo.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  If you're in Retiro at lunchtime, look out for the good-value menú ejecutivo option offered by many of the neighborhood's restaurants. Aimed at the local business crowd, the fixed-price menu usually includes a main course, drink and coffee or dessert.

  Best Buildings

  A Palacio Paz

  A Edificio Kavanagh

  A Palacio San Martín

  Best Places to Eat

  A El Federal

  A Dadá

  A Le Sud

  Best Places to Drink

  A Florería Atlántico

  A BASA Basement Bar

  A Café Porteño

  TOP SIGHT

  Palacio Paz

  Once a private residence, this opulent, French-style palace is the grandest in BA. Inside its 12,000 sq meters are three wings, four floors and 140 rooms decorated with marble columns and gilded accents, while halls have beautiful wood-carved details and velvet-covered walls, giving visitors a glimpse of the wealth once found in Argentina.

  Design & Construction

  José Camilo Paz, founder of the newspaper La Prensa who had also served as Argentina's ambassador to France, originally commissioned French architect Louis-Marie Henri Sortais to design and build his personal mansion in 1902. Construction took 12 years and finished in 1914; unfortunately, Paz didn't see the mansion completed as he died two years earlier (check out his family's elaborate tomb in Recoleta cemetery). He also didn't realize his aspiration to become Argentina's president and make Palacio Paz his presidential residence.

  Nearly all of the palace's materials – including the marble – were shipped from France. There's a definite resemblance to the Palace of Versailles, especially in the ballroom, but other rooms show more of a Louis XVI, Renaissance or Tudor style. With seven elevators and 40 bathrooms, it remains Argentina's largest single-family home ever built.

  The labyrinth-like weapons museum, the Museo de Armas, is located in the mansion's basement.

  Don't Miss

  AThe mosaic floors, marble details and the cupola of the Hall of Honor

  AThe presidential room

  AThe ballroom

  Practicalities

  A MAP GOOGLE MAP

  A%ext 147, 011-4311-1071

  Awww.palaciopaz.com.ar

  AAv Santa Fe 750

  Atours AR$150

  Ahtours English 3:30pm Thu, Spanish 3pm Tue, 11am & 3pm Wed-Fri

  AbLínea C San Martín

  MAISANT LUDOVIC / AGEFOTOSTOCK ©

  1Sights

  Retiro's sights are all located in and around Plaza San Martín, watched over by a statue of the great Libertador after whom the park is named.

  Palacio Paz Top Sight

  MAP GOOGLE MAP

  Plaza San MartínPLAZA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bLínea C San Martín)

  French landscape architect Carlos Thays designed the leafy Plaza San Martín, which is surrounded by some of Buenos Aires’ most impressive public buildings. The park’s most prominent monument is an equestrian statue of José de San Martín; visiting dignitaries often come to honor the country’s liberator by leaving wreaths at its base. On the downhill side of the park you’ll see the Monumento a los Caídos de Malvinas, a memorial to the young men who died in the Falklands War.

  Retiro was the site of a monastery during the 17th century, and later became the country retiro (retreat) of Agustín de Robles, a Spanish governor. Since then, Plaza San Martín – which sits on a bluff – has played host to a slave market, a military fort and even a bullring.

  At the southern end of the plaza is Estación Retiro (Retiro train station), which was built in 1915 by the British.

  Palacio San MartínNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %ext 7297, 011-4819-7000; Esmeralda 1231; hguided tours 3pm Tue & Thu; bLínea C San Martín)

  This impressive art-nouveau mansion (1912) is actually three independent buildings around a courtyard. It was designed by Alejandro Christophersen for the powerful Anchorena family and later became the headquarters of the Foreign Ministry; today it’s used mostly for official purposes. The only way to see inside is on a free guided tour, which are given in English and Spanish at 3pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays (bring ID), but are canceled without notice if there's an event on.

  There is also a small museum on-site displaying pre-Columbian artifacts from the northwest, which can be visited with a guide by appointment only.

  Torre MonumentalLANDMARK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4311-0186; Plaza Fuerza Aérea Argentina; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat & Sun; bLínea C Retiro)F

  Standing prominently across from Plaza San Martín, this 76m-high clock tower was a donation from the city’s British community in 1916 and built with materials shipped over from England. You can enter inside the base of the tower, where there are a few historical photos, but folks aren’t allowed up the elevator.

  Monumento a los Caídos de MalvinasMONUMENT

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bLínea C Retiro)

  On the downhill side of Plaza San Martín you’ll see the Monumento a los Caídos de Malvinas, a memorial to the 649 soldiers who died in the Falklands War (1982). The monument faces the Torre Monumental, which until the war was called Torre de los Ingleses (Tower of the English); in 1982 it was renamed.

  Edificio KavanaghNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Florida 1035; bLínea C San Martín)

  A feisty Irishwoman funded the construction of this handsome 120m art-deco apartment building, which was the tallest skyscraper in Latin America at the time of its construction in 1936.

  A local rumor claims that the heiress, vengeful toward another aristocratic family for scorning her daughter, built the structure that high to block light from entering the basilica where her rivals attended Mass every Sunday.

  Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández BlancoMUSEUM

  (Palacio Noel; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4327-0228; www.museofernandezblanco.buenosaires.gob.ar; Suipacha 1422; AR$10, Wed free; h1-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; bLínea C San Martín)

  Dating from 1921, this museum is in an old mansion of the neocolonial Peruvian style that developed as a reaction against French influences in turn-of-the-19th-century Argentine architecture. Its exceptional collection of colonial art includes silverwork from Alto Perú (present-day Bolivia), religious paintings and baroque instruments (including a Guarneri violin). The curved ceiling in the main salon is beautifully painted, and there’s also a peaceful garden. Signage is in Spanish.

  Also known as the Palacio Noel, after the designing architect, the museum building and its collections suffered damage (since repaired) from the 1992 bombing of the Israeli embassy, which at the time was located at Arroyo and Suipacha. The space where the embassy was located has since become a small memorial park; you can still see the outline of the building on a neighboring wall.

  Museo Nacional FerroviarioMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4318-3343; Av del Libertador 405; h10am-6pm; bLínea C Retiro)F

  Trainspotters won't want to miss this museum dedicated to the history of Argentina's railway network. The ramshackle exhibits include porcelain from the presidential train, a collection of ornate train toilets and sinks dating from the 1870s, model trains, evocative old photographs and even the table where President Perón signed the decree that nationalized the railways in 1948.

  The museum is located in a warehouse once used to store wool brought in by rail from the provinces before it was shipped overseas.

  Museo de ArmasMUSEUM

  (Weapons Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %ext 179, 011-4311-1071; http://museodearmas.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 702; AR$70; h1-7pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C San Martín)

  This maze-like museum exhibits a frighteningly large collection of over 3500 bazookas, grenade launchers, cannons, machine guns, muskets, pistols, armor, lances and swords; even the gas mask for a combat
horse is on display. The evolution of rifles and handguns is thoroughly documented, and there’s a small but impressive Japanese weapons room. Those with an interest in such things won't want to miss it.

  Basílica de Santísimo SacramentoCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; San Martín 1039; h8am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, noon-7:30pm Fri, 8am-8:30pm Sun; bLínea C San Martín)F

  In the shadow of the Kavanagh building is this French-style church built by the Anchorena family in 1916. Inside, check out the original tiled floor, stained-glass windows, stone columns and wedding-cake-like altar.

  AVENIDA 9 DE JULIO

  It's one Buenos Aires landmark that all visitors to the city will have to cross, in one way or another – Avenida 9 de Julio, hailed as the world's widest avenue and named after Argentina's independence day. It's only 1km long but 16 lanes wide (140m) – and takes a walking pedestrian at least two traffic-light cycles to cross, via raised islands. If they don't dillydally.

  When the widening construction started in 1935, the avenue was considered a patriotic symbol of the city's modern aspirations. Designers modeled it on Paris' Champs-Élysées, but made it twice as wide as a way to one-up its predecessor. For the construction, dozens of blocks of traditionally styled European buildings had to be demolished through the city's center, and thousands of residents displaced. It was an epic destruction of glorious architecture – all in the name of progress. But one significant building refused to be touched; the original French Embassy. It still stands today, as the lanes of 9 de Julio forcefully curve around it.

  It took until 1980 to fully complete the widening of Av 9 de Julio. Today, several landmark buildings and monuments dot the thoroughfare. At its southern end lies Plaza de la Constitución, home to a beaux-arts train station (but not a safe place to hang out, day or night). At Av de Mayo is a statue of Don Quixote astride his horse. A bit further north, the 67m-high white Obelisco punctuates the sky, while nearby is the beautiful neoclassical facade of the Teatro Colón opera house. And finally, at the northern end of the avenue, you'll find the French Embassy – which stuck to its guns and won the right to remain.

  5Eating

  Restaurants in Retiro tend to cater to the business crowds, offering good-value midday specials and food to go – so all you have to do is find yourself a nice, grassy spot or shady bench in nearby Plaza San Martín where you can enjoy your impromptu picnic. Don’t ignore the area’s bars and cafes, which also serve meals and are sometimes more casual and interesting than traditional restaurants.

  DadáINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4314-4787; San Martín 941; mains AR$142-228; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; bLínea C San Martín)

  Tiny bohemian Dadá, with walls painted red and a bar cluttered with wine bottles, feels like an unassuming neighborhood bar in Paris. Order something savory, such as a stir-fry, off the bistro menu during the day; at night you can dine on grilled salmon and down an expertly mixed cocktail.

  El FederalARGENTINE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4313-1324; www.elfederalrestaurante.com; San Martín 1015; mains AR$200-320; h11am-midnight; W; bLínea C San Martín)

  This traditional corner eatery is something of a neighborhood institution. You’ll find Argentinian comfort food – simple pastas, steaks and empanadas – as well as higher-end specialties including Patagonian lamb, ñandu milanesas (cutlets of the emu-like, flightless ñandu) and northern river fish served here. Elaborate desserts top things off, and a rustic wooden bar adds charm.

  Le SudFRENCH$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4131-0131; Hotel Sofitel, Arroyo 841; set lunch AR$250, dinner mains AR$340-570; h12:30-3pm & 7:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 12:30-3pm Sun; bLínea C San Martín)

  For a taste of Europe, dress up and head on over to Le Sud, perhaps the city’s finest French restaurant, elegantly ensconced in a posh hotel. Chef Olivier Falchi whips out simple yet authentic French-Argentine fusion dishes such as brie and squash ravioli, seafood paella with smoked paprika, and grilled lamb chops with goat's cheese.

  FiloITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4311-0312; www.filo-ristorante.com; San Martín 975; mains AR$195-345; hnoon-1am; W; bLínea C San Martín)

  Popular with the business lunch crowd, this large, pop art–style Italian pizzeria tosses 30 kinds of thin-crust pies with fresh toppings – try a pie piled high with prosciutto and arugula. Other tasty choices include panini, gourmet salads, dozens of pastas and a whirlwind of drinks and desserts. The menu is extensive – there’s something to please just about everyone here.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Retiro has a good number of bars and cafes catering to businesspeople during the day and into the evening; at night they attract a more foreign crowd.

  oFlorería AtlánticoCOCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4313-6093; http://floreriaatlantico.com.ar; Arroyo 872; h7pm-2am Mon-Wed, to 2:30am Thu, to 4am Fri, 8pm-4am Sat, 8pm-2am Sun)

  This basement speakeasy is located within a flower shop, which adds an air of mystery and is likely a key reason for its success. Hipsters, artists, chefs, businesspeople and foreigners all flock here for the excellent cocktails, both classic and creative, and the lack of gas lines means the delicious tapas and main dishes are cooked on the parrilla (grill).

  If you’re a gin lover, note that the owner, Renato Giovannonni, produces and sells his own brand – called Príncipe de los Apóstoles – aromatically infused with mint, grapefruit, eucalyptus and yerba mate. Reserve ahead for dinner.

  BASA Basement BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4893-9444; www.basabar.com.ar; Basavilbaso 1328; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-close Mon-Fri, 8pm-close Sat; bLínea C San Martín)

  This fashionable and classy spot sets the mood with open spaces, dim lighting and sofas. Check out its cocktail list – the refreshing Moscow mule is a pleasant surprise, especially on warm days. BASA isn’t cheap, so consider dropping by during happy hour (7pm to 9pm on weekdays and 8pm to 10pm on weekends) for drink specials.

  DJs provide the sounds on weekends.

  Café PorteñoCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4516-0902; Retiro Station, Av Ramos Meija 1358; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat; bLínea C Retiro)

  Catching a train from Retiro? Allow an extra half hour for coffee at this grand cafe with soaring ceilings and a polished wood and bronze interior. One of the original fixtures of the station, built in 1915, the cafe has undergone a thorough restoration – the chandeliers twinkle beautifully at night. Look for it nearly opposite Torre Monumental.

  Buller Pub DowntownBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4313-0287; www.bullerpub.com; Paraguay 428; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri; bLínea C San Martín)

  The downtown branch of Buller Brewing Company is a popular spot for after-office beers (the main pub is in Recoleta). There are usually six beers on tap – if you can't make up your mind, order the five-beer sampler.

  FluxBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5252-0258; www.facebook.com/FluxBarBsAs/; Marcelo T de Alvear 980; h7pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat; bLínea C San Martín)

  Run by a friendly Englishman and his Russian partner, this gay bar is hetero-friendly – so everyone’s welcome to come on down. The basement space has a slightly artsy feel. Feeling adventurous? Try the Buenos Aires iced tea (made with Fernet, that popular spirit that’s something of an acquired taste). Thursday's Pop Hereje party is the biggest night here.

  Florida GardenCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4312-7902; www.floridagarden.com.ar; Florida 899; h6am-11pm; bLínea C San Martín)

  Usually full of businesspeople drinking coffee, this two-story cafe – now sporting modern touches such as glass walls and copper-covered columns – was historically popular with politicians, artists and writers. In fact, Jorge Luis Borges and Pérez Célis (a famous Argentine painter) used to hang out here before the era of skinny lattes. An excellent spot for people-watching.

  7Shopping

  Retiro is home to a number of the city’s upscale l
eather shops and art galleries, but it also serves the downtown business and tourism sector, with a mix of bookstores, outdoor clothing stores, and souvenir and wine shops.

  oAutoríaARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5252-2474; www.autoriabsas.com.ar; Suipacha 1025; h9:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; bLínea C San Martín)

  This gallery-like store, stocked with edgy art books, fashion, accessories, whimsical leather desk sculptures, original artworks and unique handmade jewelry, strives to promote Argentinian designers. Especially interesting are the recycled materials – check out the bags made of Tyvek, inner tubes, fire hoses or even old sails. Products are of high quality and prices are accessible.

  La MartinaSPORTS & OUTDOORS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4576-7998; www.lamartina.com; Paraguay 661; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; bLínea C San Martín)

  Polo is a high-class sport in Buenos Aires, an unmistakable symbol of wealth and refinement. Even if you’ve never mounted a horse, it’s interesting to look around at the gorgeous leather riding boots, helmets and saddles at Argentina’s premier polo shop. Street wear clothes are also available.

  Casa LópezCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4311-3045; www.casalopez.com.ar; Marcelo T de Alvear 640; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6:30pm Sat & Sun; bLínea C San Martín)

  Start up the limousine and make sure there’s enough room for some of BA’s finest selection of quality leather jackets, luggage, bags and accessories. The look is conservative, not hip; service is almost too attentive, so be prepared to chat.