Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 8
Local Life
AHangouts Join office workers for lunch on the hoof at 180 Burger Bar or Latino Sandwich.
AThe Square Enjoy Plaza de Mayo as the locals do by sitting on a bench and chatting to the people around you. Topics of conversation might include tutting at the traffic chaos caused by the latest roadblock or complaining about the price of meat.
AShopping Mingle among the throngs of street vendors, business people, buskers and hustlers on Calle Florida.
Getting There & Away
ABus Take bus 29 from San Telmo; 29, 64 and 152 from La Boca; 59 from Recoleta; 29, 59, 64 and 152 from Palermo’s Plaza Italia.
ASubte Líneas A (Plaza de Mayo station), D (Catedral station) and E (Bolívar station) all terminate at Plaza de Mayo. Línea C stops Lavalle and Diaganol Norte are also in this neighborhood.
Lonely Planet's Top Tip
As there are so many businesspeople in the Center, many restaurants offer menús ejecutivos – or lunch specials – to attract this valuable clientele. These set lunches are offered weekdays and usually consist of a main course with dessert and a drink, all for a reasonable fixed price. It's a good way to try out otherwise pricey restaurants.
Best Museums
A Museo Casa Rosada
A Cabildo
A Museo Histórico y Numismático José Evaristo Uriburu
A Museo Etnográfico Juan B Ambrosetti
Best Places to Shop
A Galerías Pacífico
A Arte y Esperanza
A El Coleccionista
Best Places to Drink
A La Puerto Rico
A La Cigale
A Café Tortoni
TOP SIGHT
Plaza de Mayo
Plaza de Mayo is the political, social and symbolic center of Buenos Aires. Surrounded by the Casa Rosada, the Cabildo and the city’s main cathedral, the elegant, grassy plaza has borne witness to many of the key events of Argentina's turbulent recent history. It's where Argentines continue to gather for political rallies, peaceful and violent protests, and jubilant celebrations.
The City's Historic Heart
When Juan de Garay refounded Buenos Aires in 1580, he laid out the large Plaza del Fuerte (Fortress Plaza) in accordance with Spanish law. Later called the Plaza del Mercado (Market Plaza), then the Plaza de la Victoria (after victories over British invaders in 1806 and 1807), the plaza acquired its present name of Plaza de Mayo after the date Buenos Aires declared independence from Spain: May 25, 1810.
At the center of the plaza is the Pirámide de Mayo, a white obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of independence from Spain. Looming on the plaza's northern side is the headquarters of Banco de la Nación (1939), the work of famed architect Alejandro Bustillo. Most other public buildings in this area belong to the late 19th century, when the Av de Mayo first connected the Casa Rosada with the Plaza del Congreso, obliterating much of the historic and dignified Cabildo in the process.
Plaza de Mayo has long been the preferred site of many civil protests; note the unsightly barricades separating the plaza in two, meant to discourage large numbers of piqueteros (picketers) from congregating. But these barricades haven't prevented the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo – the mothers of the 'disappeared', those abducted by the state during the military dictatorship of 1976 and 1983 – from gathering in the plaza every Thursday afternoon at 3:30pm since 1977, and circling the pyramid holding photographs of their missing children. To this day they march on as a reminder of the past – and for other social justice causes.
Don't Miss
APirámide de Mayo
AStatue of General Belgrano
AFountains
Practicalities
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
Acnr Av de Mayo & San Martín
AbLínea A Plaza de Mayo
SAIKO3P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
2Neighborhood Walk
Through the Heart of the City
Start Plaza San Martín
End Plaza de Mayo
Length 3km; three hours
Start at leafy 1Plaza San Martín, the green heart of Retiro and a haven for loungers on a sunny day. It was designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays; notice the statue of a proud José de San Martín astride his horse at the western tip of the plaza.
Cross Av Santa Fe to the striking 2Palacio Paz mansion. Time it right so you can catch an English-speaking tour (otherwise they’re in Spanish), and take in the grandeur of a long-ago era.
On the same block is the 3Museo de Armas, an astounding collection of guns, swords and cannon. Weapons buffs will definitely want to spend some time here.
Find your way down to pedestrian Calle Florida and walk south to the elegant 4Galerías Pacífico shopping mall, one of the capital’s most beautiful. Even if you don’t like to shop, you should take a peek inside at the ceiling murals.
Now head west a few blocks on pedestrian Lavalle and cross Av 9 de Julio, claimed by many to be the world’s widest street. Your destination is the impressive 5Teatro Colón, BA’s opera house and a major source of pride for porteños.
The 67m 6Obelisco monument is one of the city’s most reconginzable landmarks. Erected in 1936 on the 400th anniversary of the first Spanish settlement on the Río de la Plata, it’s the place to honk your car’s horn when the Argentinian national soccer team wins a major victory.
Back in the day 7Avenida Corrientes was the main theater district in BA, and even today some of the city’s largest theaters are still located here. It's also known for its many bookstores (though the books sold here are mostly in Spanish).
Hit Florida again and make your way south to Diagonal Roque Sáenz Peña. You’ll end up at historic 8Plaza de Mayo, where you'll want to linger and take in the atmosphere.
1Sights
Since the Center is the very place where Buenos Aires was founded by Juan de Garay and his men in 1580, this is where you'll find the city's most important historical sights. Plaza de Mayo has been at the center of political life since those early days, when a fort sat where Casa Rosada is today; the Cabildo and cathedral were also established on the same spots as they are now.
As well as historical buildings, there are some excellent museums and cultural centers to visit in this part of the city.
1Microcentro
Plaza de Mayo Top Sight
MAP GOOGLE MAP
Museo Casa RosadaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4344-3802; www.casarosada.gob.ar/la-casa-rosada/museo; cnr Av Paseo Colón & Hipólito Yrigoyen; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)F
Behind the Casa Rosada you’ll notice a glass wedge that's the roof of this bright and airy museum, housed within the brick vaults of the old aduana (customs house). Head down into the open space, which has over a dozen side rooms, each dedicated to a different era of Argentina’s tumultuous political history. There are videos (in Spanish) and a few artifacts to see, along with an impressive restored mural by Mexican artist David Alfaro Siqueiros.
oCentro Cultural KirchnerCULTURAL CENTER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0800-333-9300; www.culturalkirchner.gob.ar; Sarmiento 151; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun; bLínea B Alem)F
It was Néstor Kirchner who, in 2005, first proposed turning the abandoned former central post office into a cultural center. He died in 2010 before the project was completed, but the breathtaking cultural center was named in his honor. Within the vast beaux-arts structure – that stands eight stories tall and takes up an entire city block – are multiple art galleries, events spaces and auditoriums. The highlight, however, is the Ballena Azul, a concert hall with world-class acoustics that seats 1800.
The original building, which was modeled on New York City’s main post office, took nearly 30 years to complete (in 1928). Restoration for the cultural center began in 2009 and it opened in May 2015. The architects used glass and stainless steel to maintain and add to the beauty of the original structure.
The result is one of BA’s grandest buildings, and it’s well w
orth a visit. It's free to enter and there may be exhibitions to see that don't require tickets, but there are a host of activities (such as yoga and dance classes as well as concerts) that are free but ticketed – check the website to see what's on and act quickly if you want to book. Free guided tours of the center are given at 2pm and 3:30pm at weekends with advance online bookings.
Ministerio de EconomíaNOTABLE BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Balcarce 186; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)
In June 1955 Argentine naval aircraft strafed Plaza de Mayo in the first step of a military coup, killing more than 300 civilians who were gathered in support of Juan Domingo Perón and forcing the president to flee into exile in Spain. On the northern side of the Ministerio de Economía, an inconspicuous plaque commemorates the attacks (look for the bullet holes to the left of the doors).
Catedral MetropolitanaCATHEDRAL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun, museum 10am-1:30pm Mon-Fri; bLínea D Catedral)F
This cathedral was built on the site of the original colonial church and not finished until 1827. It’s a significant religious and architectural landmark, and carved above its triangular facade and neoclassical columns are bas-reliefs of Jacob and Joseph. The spacious interior is equally impressive, with baroque details and an elegant rococo altar. There’s a small museum (admission AR$50) dedicated to the cathedral’s history inside. For Pope Francis souvenirs, visit the small gift shop near the entrance.
The cathedral is also a national historical site that contains the mausoleum of General José de San Martín, Argentina’s most revered hero, who led the country to independence in 1816. In the chaos that followed, San Martín chose exile in France, never again returning to Argentina; his remains were brought to Buenos Aires in 1880, 30 years after his death. Outside the cathedral you’ll see a flame keeping his spirit alive.
CabildoMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-6729; https://cabildonacional.cultura.gob.ar; Bolívar 65; AR$15, Tue free; h10:30am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 6pm Sat & Sun; bLínea A Perú)
This mid-18th-century town hall building is now an interesting museum largely dedicated to the revolution of May 1810, when Argentina declared independence. Exhibits cover the history of the Cabildo during colonial times (when it was also a prison) through to the British invasions of 1806 and 1807 and independence three years later. Guided tours in English are given on Saturday and Sunday at 11:30am from October to March.
There are good views of Plaza de Mayo from the 2nd-floor balcony.
Galerías PacíficoNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5555-5110; www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar; cnr Florida & Av Córdoba; h10am-9pm, food court to 10pm, tours 11am daily & 4:30pm Wed-Sun; bLínea B Florída)
Covering an entire city block, this beautiful building inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris has fulfilled the commercial purpose that its designers envisioned when they constructed it in 1889. Galerías Pacífico is now a shopping center – dotted with lovely fairy lights at night – and boasts upscale stores along with a large food court. Free tours are given in English and Spanish; inquire at the information kiosk. The excellent Centro Cultural Borges takes up the top floor.
When you step inside, check out the ceiling. In 1945 the completion of a central cupola made space for a dozen paintings by muralists Antonio Berni, Juan Carlos Castagnino, Manuel Colmeiro, Lino Enea Spilimbergo and Demetrio Urruchúa. All were adherents of the nuevo realismo (new realism) school, heirs of an earlier social-activist tendency in Argentine art. For many years the building was semi-abandoned, but a joint Argentine-Mexican team repaired and restored the murals in 1992.
Museo Histórico y Numismático José Evaristo UriburuMUSEUM
(Central Bank Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4348-3882; www.bcra.gov.ar; San Martín 216; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri; bLínea D Catedral)
Housed in the former Buenos Aires Stock Exchange (1862), this interesting little museum tells the story of Argentina through its money. Starting with examples of Pre-Columbian currency (cocoa seeds and leaves), there are examples of colonial coins, replicas of the first coins of the independent republic and other historic notes, including an AR$1,000,000 bill issued during the hyperinflation of 1981, the provincial bonds issued after the 2001 crisis and the appearance of Eva Perón on the AR$100 in 2012.
Iglesia Santa CatalinaCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5238-6040; www.santacatalina.org.ar; San Martín 705; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, guided tours 3pm Mon; bLínea B Florida)F
Santa Catalina was founded in 1745, when it became Buenos Aires’ first convent. In 1807 British troops invaded the city for the second time and took shelter in the convent for two days; despite damaging the property they didn't hurt the nuns. Today Santa Catalina is a church, and a peek inside reveals beautiful gilded works and a baroque altarpiece created by Isidro Lorea, a Spanish carver.
Museo Mundial del TangoMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4345-6967; Av de Mayo 833, 1st fl; AR$20; h2:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri; bLínea A Piedras)
Located below the Academia Nacional del Tango is this small museum. Just a couple of large rooms are filled with tango memorabilia, from old records and photos to historical literature and posters. Tango shoes are also featured, but the highlight has to be one of Carlos Gardel’s famous fedora hats. Another entrance is at Rivadavia 830.
Museo MitreMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4394-8240; www.museomitre.gob.ar; San Martín 336; AR$20; h1-5:30pm Mon-Fri; bLínea B Florida)
This museum is located in the colonial house where Bartolomé Mitre – Argentina’s first legitimate president elected under the constitution of 1853 – resided with his family from 1859 to 1906. Mitre’s term ran from 1862 to 1868, and he spent much of it leading the country’s armies against Paraguay. Two courtyards, salons, an office, a billiards room and Mitre’s old bedroom are part of this complex. Since part of the museum is open air, it sometimes closes when it rains.
Museo de la Policía FederalMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4394-6857; San Martín 353, 7th fl; h2-7pm Tue-Fri; bLínea B Florida)F
This quirky and extensive police museum displays a whole slew of uniforms and medals, along with ‘illegal activities’ exhibits (cockfighting and gambling), drug paraphernalia (including an anal smuggling tube and a rubber arm stuck with a needle) and even a stuffed police dog. The fake Stradivarius violin and counterfeit bills are also entertaining. Look for it in an incongruous high-rise building marked Circulo Policía Federal; there’s no sign for the museum.
POPE FRANCIS
After Cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the archbishop of Buenos Aires, was named successor to Pope Benedict XVI in March 2013, he took the name Francis I. Not only was he the first pontiff to bear that moniker (adopted to honor St Francis of Assisi), he was also the first to hail from the Americas and the first to belong to the Jesuit order, which incidentally was expelled from most of South America for 47 years (1767–1814).
It’s a fair bet that he’s also the first pope to have grown up drinking mate, tangoing at milongas and ardently supporting the San Lorenzo fútbol club.
Bergoglio was a humble man who had eschewed the archbishop's palace in Olivos, remaining in his modest apartment and getting around Buenos Aires by bus and the Subte rather than with a car and driver. As Francis I he has continued these habits, emulating his namesake and personal hero, the saint from Assisi who once renounced all worldly possessions including his clothing. This humility, coupled with the very personable humanity Pope Francis displays, has made him an extremely popular pontiff.
Over the past few years, however, some of Pope Francis' declarations have been controversial. He has criticized capitalism, practically supported evolution and highlighted the need to protect the natural environment. He's also noted the importance of women's roles in the church, and while he opposes same-sex marriage, he does believe that gay people should be treated with love and respect. Many Catholics speak of feeling unders
tood by him, and his popularity extends beyond the faithful.
1Montserrat
oManzana de las LucesNOTABLE BUILDING
(Block of Enlightenment; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-6973; www.manazadelasluces.org; Perú 222; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 2-8pm Sat & Sun; bLínea E Bolívar)F
In colonial times, the Manzana de las Luces was Buenos Aires’ most important center of culture and learning and today the block still symbolizes education and enlightenment. Two of the five original buildings remain; Jesuit defensive tunnels were discovered in 1912. Tours (in Spanish; AR$50) are given at 3pm daily and also at 4:30pm and 6pm at weekends, but you can go inside and see the main patio area for free.
The first people to occupy the Manzana de las Luces were the Jesuits, who built several structures including the Procuraduría (1730; administrative headquarters), part of which still survives today. (Unfortunately for the Jesuits, they were later expelled from the premises – and Argentina – in 1767 by the King of Spain.) Along with housing offices, these buildings hosted converted indigenous people from the provinces. Later, during the 19th century, they were home to various museums, legislative offices, schools and universities.
Today, a cultural center on the premises offers workshops and music, film and theater events and a wonderfully atmospheric milonga takes place in here on Friday nights.
Museo Etnográfico Juan B AmbrosettiMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5287-3050; www.museoetnografico.filo.uba.ar; Moreno 350; AR$20; h1-7pm Tue-Fri, 3-7pm Sat & Sun; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)