Lonely Planet Portugal Page 6
ATake the narrow-gauge train to the lovely, wild beaches along Costa da Caparica.
ASee dinosaur footprints – yes, real dinosaur footprints! – at Cabo Espichel or Monumento Natural das Pegadas dos Dinossáurios.
Horse Riding
Horse riding is a fantastic way to experience Portugal’s countryside. Lusitano thoroughbreds hail from Portugal, and experienced riders can take dressage lessons at the Escola de Equitação de Alcainça (www.eealcainca.pt), near Mafra, in Estremadura. Otherwise, there are dozens of horse-riding centres – especially in the Alentejo, and in the Algarve at places such as Silves, Lagos, Portimão and Albufeira. Northern Portugal also offers some pleasant settings for rides, including Campo do Gerês at the edge of Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês. Rates are usually around €20 to €30 per hour.
Switzerland-based Equitour (www.equitour.com) offers eight-day riding holidays costing €1045 to €1800 per person, including accommodation and some meals. Its signature tour follows the Alentejo Royal Horse Stud Trail, with stays at grand country estates. Other destinations include the Alentejo coast and the rugged terrain of northern Portugal.
The Wyoming-based outfit Equitours (www.equitours.com), America’s largest and oldest, offers a year-round classical dressage program on Lusitano horses at the Escola de Equitação de Alcainça. Rates including accommodation plus up to three hours of riding per day start at US$205 in the low season, and up to US$250 in the high season. Equitours also offers several different multiday rides around the country starting from around US$1700 (for an eight-day trip along the Alentejo coast) including lodging and food.
SKI PORTUGAL?
This isn't Switzerland – or even Spain for that matter – but believe it or not, Portugal has a downhill ski run. The country’s highest peak, 1993m-high Torre in Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela, offers basic facilities including three lifts and equipment rental. Truth be told, Torre offers more curiosity value than actual skiing excitement, and the mountain landscape is so fragile that it’s hard to recommend this as sustainable tourism. If you’re really hard-up, and want a (slightly) less environmentally damaging alternative, you can always hit the rather surreal ‘dry ski’ run at SkiParque east of Manteigas.
Golf
Portugal is a golf mecca, and its championship courses are famous for their rolling greens and ocean vistas. Although many courses are frequented mainly by club members and local property owners, anyone with a handicap certificate can play here. Greens fees run from €35 to over €120 per round.
Vidago Palace in Trás-os-Montes has become one of the premier golfing destinations in Portugal. Estoril has nearly a dozen spectacular courses. Golf do Estoril, one of Portugal’s best-known, has hosted the Portuguese Open Championship 20 times. It’s 5262m long and set among eucalyptus, pine and mimosa trees. Two other Portuguese Open venues lie nearby: Oitavos Dunes, which rolls over windblown dunes and rocky outcrops; and Penha Longa, ranked one of Europe’s best courses, with superb views of the Serra de Sintra. See www.estorilsintragolf.net or the Estoril and Cascais turismos for full details of all courses.
Two well-regarded courses around Lisbon are Troia Golf near Setúbal and Praia d’El Rey Golf & Beach Resort near Óbidos.
The Algarve has three-dozen courses at last count – including the renowned Vilamoura Oceânico Victoria, San Lorenzo, Monte Rei and Vale do Lobo courses. For a general overview, see the complete course guide at www.algarve-golf.com.
For golfing packages around Lisbon and in the Algarve, try UK-based Your Golf Travel (www.yourgolftravel.com).
Bear in mind that golf courses’ toll on the environment can be significant, especially in dry and fragile coastal settings such as the Algarve.
PestanaGOLF
(www.pestanagolf.com)
This hotel group runs several of the Algarve's more affordable courses.
Plan Your Trip
Eat & Drink Like a Local
Settling down to a meal with friends is one of life's great pleasures for the Portuguese, who take pride in simple but flavourful dishes honed to perfection over the centuries. Seafood, roast meats, freshly baked bread and velvety wines are key staples in the everyday feast that is eating in Portugal.
Bacalhau (dried salt-cod) served with potatoes | Matt Munro / Lonely Planet ©
The Year in Food
Spring
In late spring and early summer, you'll see signs advertising caracois (snails). These little delicacies are cooked in olive oil, garlic and herbs and are quite tasty. They go nicely with a cold beer.
Summer
Head to the market for bountiful fruits and vegetables: plump tomatoes, juicy peaches, nísperos (loquats), strawberries and other delights. Sardines, much loved along the coast (especially in Lisbon), are available from May through October, and are generally bigger and juicier in July and August.
Autumn
In September the Douro Valley begins its annual grape harvest; it's a festive time to visit, and some wineries allow visitors to take part.
Winter
During cold days Portuguese hunker down over hearty dishes such as cozido à portuguesa, a dish of mixed roast meats, potatoes, cabbage and carrots. Rich soups like canja (chicken soup) and sopa de peixe (fish soup) are also popular. In the Minho, January to March is the season for tender grilled eels.
Food Experiences
NOTHING IS FREE
Throughout the country, waiters bring bread, olives and other goodies to your table when you sit down. This unordered appetiser is called the couvert and it is never free (couvert can cost €1.50 for some olives and bread to upwards of €8 per person for cheeses and high-quality fixings at flashier places). If you don't want it, send it away – or simply ignore it – and make sure it isn't accidentally added to your bill.
Meals of a Lifetime
AVila Joya Delightful two-Michelin-star restaurant by the sea.
AAlma Brilliantly creative dishes in Lisbon by culinary superstar Henrique Sá Pessoa.
ABotequim da Mouraria Fantastic traditional Alentejan cooking in a tiny bar-seating-only tavern in Évora.
ATasca do Celso Wonderful cuisine and a charming rustic ambience on the Alentejo coast in Vila Nova de Milfontes.
ARestaurante O Barradas Some 3km from Silves, this delightful converted farmhouse restaurant sources organic fish, meat and fruits in season.
ADOC Delectable fare and an unmatched wine list at an indoor-outdoor restaurant right on the Douro.
AEsplanada Furnas Seafood feasts served on a cliff overlooking the waves in Ericeira.
APedra de Sal A cosy dining room that serves phenomenal Iberian pork dishes.
AO Albertino The superb traditional fare is well worth the drive to this spot tucked away in the mountainous northern reaches of Portugal.
ABelcanto Prepare for a dazzling meal at this celebrated restaurant of José Avillez in Lisbon.
AAdraga Excellent fresh fish served just steps from the ocean in a famous, but unfussy spot west of Sintra.
ARestaurante António Padeiro An atmospheric spot with legendary cooking in the historic town of Alcobaça.
AO Paparico A slice of rustic romance, just north of Porto, serving wonderfully authentic Portuguese food.
Carapaus de escabeche (fried marinated mackerel) | Bonchan / Getty Images ©
Cheap Treats
APastel de nata Custard tart, ideally served warm and dusted with cinnamon.
ATravesseira A rolled puff pastry filled with almond-and-egg-yolk custard. Find them in Sintra.
ATinned fish Sardines, mackerel and tuna served with bread, olives and other accompaniments are the latest snack craze in Lisbon. Try Sol e Pesca.
AFrancesinha Porto's favourite hangover snack is a thick open-faced sandwich covered in melted cheese.
AMarzipan In the Algarve, this very sweet almond-infused confection is a local favourite.
AGrilled chicken Rotisserie chicken is an art form in Portugal. Spice it up with piri-piri (hot sauce).
ABifana A bread roll served with a slice of fried pork inside. They're best in the Alentejo.
Lisbon shop selling pastel de nata | Matt Munro / Lonely Planet ©
PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
€ less than €10
€€ €10–20
€€€ more than €20
Dare to Try
ATripe People from Porto aren't called tripeiros (tripe-eaters) for nothing. Try the surprisingly tasty tripas à modo do Porto, made of tripe, beans and sausage.
AArroz de cabidelo Rice soaked in chicken's blood may sound foul, but it's a bloody good delicacy. The pork variant is called arroz de sarrabulho.
AMorcela Blood sausage made with pig's blood and perhaps rice and pork.
ACaracois Smaller and less fancy than escargots, these are snails, plain and simple. Toothpick prying skills required.
ATorresmos Slices of pig skin and fat served up deep-fried. Makes a great bar snack.
Mercado da Ribeira | Tichr / Shutterstock ©
TOP MARKETS
Every sizable town has a local produce market where you can assemble a feast of a picnic (breads, cheeses, olives, fruits, vegetables, smoked meats and more) for very little cash. Here are a few of our favourites:
AMercado da Ribeira, Lisbon
AMercado do Livramento, Setúbal
AMercado Municipal, Loulé
AMercado Municipal, Évora
AMercado Municipal Dom Pedro V, Coimbra
AMercado Municipal, Braga
AMercado do Bolhão, Porto
Food & Wine Festivals
ARota de Sabores Tradicionais Running from January to May, this culinary fair in Évora features traditional specialities served at select restaurants throughout the town.
AEssência do Vinho A wine fest in Porto held in February.
AFestival Internacional do Chocolate Chocolate lovers descend on the pretty medieval town of Óbidos in March.
APeixe em Lisboa A week of seafood feasting in April at top restaurants in Lisbon.
AFesta de Santo António Lisbon's lively street party in June is a great opportunity to feast on chargrilled sardines and roast suckling pig.
AFeira do Alvarinho In July, Monção in the Minho pays its respects to its most famous produce, the refreshing Alvarinho white wine.
AFestival do Marisco A sinful seafood festival held in August in the Algarve.
ACozinha dos Ganhões The lively culinary festival held in Estremoz happens in late November or early December.
Wine barrels at Quinta da Pacheca | Matt Munro / Lonely Planet ©
Local Specialities
Bread remains integral to every meal, and it even turns up in some main courses. Be on the lookout for açorda (bread stew, often served with shellfish), migas (bread pieces prepared as a side dish) and ensopados (stews with toasted or deep-fried bread).
Seafood stews are superb in Portugal, particularly caldeirada, which is a mix of fish and shellfish in a rich broth, not unlike a bouillabaisse. Bacalhau (dried salt-cod) is bound up in myth, history and tradition, and is excellent in baked dishes.
Mercado do Bolhão | Stockphotosart / Shutterstock ©
Lisbon
Simplicity, pristine ingredients and creativity mark Lisbon's gourmet scene. Chefs such as Henrique Sá Pessoa at Alma, João Rodrigues at Feitoria, José Avillez at Belcanto and Ljubomir Stanisic at 100 Maneiras, among others, have put the Portuguese capital on the gastronomic map with ingredient-focused tasting menus that often put a spin on comfort foods such as slow-cooked suckling pig and bacalhau.
Algarve
This is a bivalve zone, with hordes of fresh clams, oysters, mussels, cockles and whelks. Don’t go past the seafood cataplana (a Portuguese version of the Spanish paella) and xerém (corn mash made with cockles).
Alentejo
Warning to vegetarians: pork will confront you at every repast. Bread also figures heavily; you’ll find it in gazpacho or açorda. During hunting season, perdiz (partridge), lebre (hare) and javali (wild boar) are the go. The Alentejo also has surf-and-turf blends such as carne de porco à alentejana (braised pork with baby clams).
Estremadura & Ribatejo
Seafood dominates the culinary palate in Estremadura; caldeiradas de peixe (fish stews) rule the menus, closely followed by escabeche (marinated vinegar fish stew) and sopas de mariscos (shellfish soups). Carnivores should head to Ribatejo – this is meat and tripe country.
Beiras
There’s plenty of bacalhau and ovos moles (thickened sweet egg yolks), egg cakes and chanfana (goat or lamb stews), plus Atlantic seafood. Sausages are popular, as are cheeses, especially Rabaçal cheese and Queijo Serra da Estrela (Serra cheese).
Minho
The Minho produces the famous vinho verde (green wine – ‘green’ because it’s made from immature grapes, either red or white), caldo verde (Galician kale and potato soup), broa de Milho (golden corn loaf), thrifty sopa seca (dry soup) and seasonal eel-like lamprey, trout and salmon dishes.
Douro & Trás-os-Montes
The north is known for its pork dishes, cabrito assado (roast kid) and posta de barrosã (beef from a rare breed of cattle). The pork-free alheira (a bread and meat sausage) was invented by the Jewish people during the Inquisition. Crops of figs, cherries, almonds, chestnuts and oranges abound.
Dining Basics
When to Eat
ACafé da manhã (breakfast; 8am to 10am) is generally a simple affair with coffee and a bread roll or pastry.
AAlmoço (lunch; noon to 3pm) can be a two-course fixed price special, or something more casual, depending on the locale.
AJantar (dinner; 7pm to 10pm) generally features more elaborate (and slightly pricier) dishes, though some places specialise in petiscos (sharing plates).
Where to Eat
ATasca (tavern) Old-fashioned place with daily specials, fair prices and a local crowd.
AChurrasqueira (grill house) Specialising in chargrilled meats.
AMarisqueira (seafood restaurant) Serves up fish and crustaceans, often priced by the kilo.
ACervejaria (beer house) Good for snacking and socialising.
AAdega (wine tavern) Usually decorated with wine casks and boasting a rustic, cosy ambience; expect hearty inexpensive meals.
Menu Decoder
ACouvert The bread, olives and other nibbles brought to your table; note that these are not free.
ADose Portion, generally big enough for two people.
AEmenta turística Tourist menu.
AMeia dose Half-portion, big enough for one person.
APetiscos Tapas/snacks.
APostre Dessert.
APrato do dia Daily special or dish of the day.
AServiço Service charge.
Regions at a Glance
Lisbon & Around
Ghosts of the Past
History lurks around every corner, from roofless cathedrals that bore witness to Europe’s most devastating earthquake to the 1000-year-old castle on the hill – the scene of bloody Crusades battles. There are Roman ruins, medieval churches, 16th-century convents and more.
Culinary Powerhouses
Ever-inventive chefs showcase the bounty of field and ocean, and traditional restaurants serve Spanish, Italian, Indian, French and other cuisines. Cinematic views, al fresco meals and buzzing dining rooms complete the experience.
Music-Fuelled Nights
Nights out range from curbside drinking in Bairro Alto to live fado shows in Alfama. Put your hands in the air at club Lux, listen to up-and-coming bands at Musicbox – the options are limitless.
Regions at a Glance
The Algarve
Captivating Coasts
Sun-kissed shores come in many forms in the Algarve: scenic coves, family-friendly bays, pounding surf. Beaches along the rugged west coast are more remote and natural. Those further east have bigger tourist infrastructures and swell with holidaymakers in summer.
Seafood Feasts
Seafood plays a starring role in the Algarve – with superb cataplanas (seafood stews) and a vast range of grilled fish. You’ll find all levels of restaurant, from Michelin-starred to beachside shack.
Outdoor Adventures
The Algarve offers a plethora of organised activities, especially for children, with water parks, horse riding and pirate-ship cruises. Also on offer are birdwatching, walking, thermal baths, surfing and boat trips.
Regions at a Glance
The Alentejo
Relics of the Past
Medieval villages proliferate in the Alentejo. Marvão, Monsaraz, Mértola, Estremoz and Elvas all have eye-catching castles that played a role in shaping Portugal’s history.
Traditional Cuisine
The Alentejo is known for its produce, especially porco preto (black pork) and its doces conventuais (sweets). Vineyards cover the region, and there's a well-established network of wineries.