Lonely Planet Laos Page 3
Continue south to Savannakhet for a taste of how Vientiane looked before it received a makeover from the Lao government and international aid money. Explore the somnolent streets of old French architecture and surf the street stalls at the Savannakhet Plaza Food Market.
Roll on southward to Pakse, gateway to the southernmost province of Champasak. Champasak town is a more relaxed alternative to Pakse and is the base for seeing Laos' most important archaeological site, Wat Phu Champasak, an Angkor-style temple ruin spread across the slopes of sacred Phu Pasak.
A rewarding side trip takes you up onto the Bolaven Plateau and to some impressive waterfalls, including Tat Fan. This is also the place to try the adrenaline-fuelled Treetop Explorer experience, a jungle zipline adventure. Pass through the coffee capital of Paksong to buy some java before heading to beautiful Tat Lo. This is a great place to hang out and swim in the falls, undertaking gentle treks through local villages.
Continuing south, consider stopping at the village of Kiet Ngong to visit the elevated archaeological site of Phu Asa or try bird-spotting in the nearby forest and wetlands. This is a logical stop on the route south to Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), an archipelago of idyllic river islands where the farming and fishing life have not changed much for a century or more. Swing in a hammock and relax, before moving on to Cambodia or heading to Thailand via Chong Mek.
Sun-dried coffee beans, Bolaven Plateau | OSCAR ESPINOSA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Plan Your Trip
Outdoor Adventures
Dense jungles, brooding mountains, endless waterways, towering cliffs and hairpin bends: the potential for adrenalin-fuelled adventures in Laos is limitless. Whether you prefer to scale the heights of lofty peaks or plumb the darkness of extensive caves, Laos will deliver something special.
Cyclist on a valley road | MARK WATSON/HIGHLUX/GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR RF/LONELY PLANET ©
When to Go
November to February
This is the cool, dry season and considered the best time for activities like trekking, cycling and motorbiking. Trekking in higher altitude places like Phongsali may be better in spring or autumn, as the winter can be very cold at 1500m, but it is a great time of year to trek in central and southern Laos.
March to May
Temperatures regularly hit 40°C during the hot season. Common sense dictates that this is a good time to go underground and do some cave exploring around Vang Vieng or Tha Khaek or cool off with some kayaking on the Nam Ou (Ou River) or tubing on the Nam Song (Song River).
June to October
The wet season is the time for water-based activities such as rafting or kayaking, as even the smaller rivers have a bit more volume at this time of year.
Trekking
Trekking in Laos is all about exploring the National Protected Areas (NPAs) and visiting the colourful ethnic-minority villages, many of which host overnight trekking groups. Anything is possible, from half-day hikes to weeklong expeditions that include cycling and kayaking. Most treks have both a cultural and an environmental focus, with trekkers sleeping in village homestays and money going directly to some of the poorest communities in the country. There are now a dozen or more areas you can choose from. Less strenuous walks include jungle hikes to pristine waterfalls and village walks in remote areas. The scenery is often breathtaking, featuring plunging highland valleys, tiers of rice paddies and soaring limestone mountains.
Treks are mostly run by small local tour operators and have English-speaking guides. Prices, including all food, guides, transport, accommodation and park fees, start at about US$25 per person per day for larger groups. For more specialised long treks into remote areas, prices can run into several hundred dollars. In most cases you can trek with as few as two people, with per person costs falling with larger groups.
Where to Go
ANam Ha NPA Luang Namtha has developed an award-winning ecotourism project for visits to local ethnic-minority villages in the national park.
APhongsali Province Explore fascinating hill-tribe terrain in one of the most authentic trekking destinations in the region. Mountainous and chilly in winter, multiday treks include traditional homestays with the colourful Akha people.
APhu Hin Bun NPA A karst of thousands, this national park offers sublime scenery with towering limestone peaks and snaking rivers.
ASe Pian NPA Community-run trekking trips provide easy access to some deep forest.
ADong Natad Treks through beautiful landscapes, organised by Savannakhet’s eco-guide unit.
SAFETY FOR HIKERS
ADon't stray from established paths, as there is unexploded ordinance (UXO) in many parts of the country.
AHire a local guide; they're inexpensive, speak the language and understand indigenous culture.
ADogs can be aggressive; a stout stick can come in handy.
AInvest in a pair of boots with ankle support.
ACarry a mosquito net if trekking in malarial zones of the region.
AWear quality socks and repellent to reduce the likelihood of leeches.
ACarry water-purification tablets if you have a weak constitution.
ATake along some snack bars or energy snacks to avoid getting riced out on longer treks.
Cycling
Laos is slowly but steadily establishing itself as a cycling destination. For hard-core cyclists, the mountains of northern Laos are the ultimate destination. For those who like a gentler workout, meandering along Mekong villages is memorable, particularly in southern Laos around Si Phan Don.
In most places that see a decent number of tourists, simple single-speed bicycles can be hired for around 20,000K per day. Better mountain bikes will cost from 40,000K to 80,000K per day or US$5 to US$10. Serious tourers should bring their own bicycle. The choice in Laos is fairly limited compared with neighbouring Thailand or Cambodia.
Several tour agencies and guesthouses offer mountain-biking tours, ranging in duration from a few hours to several weeks.
Where to Go
ALuang Namtha Cycle through ethnic-minority villages.
ALuang Prabang Biking is a great way to get around the old town or explore some of the surrounding countryside.
ASi Phan Don Cycle past peaceful rice paddies and raging waterfalls.
AUdomxai Three-day cycle challenge to Chom Ong Caves.
Motorbiking
For those with a thirst for adventure, motorbike trips into remote areas of Laos are unforgettable. The mobility of two wheels is unrivalled. Motorbikes can traverse trails that even the hardiest 4WD cannot follow. It puts you closer to the countryside – its smells, people and scenery – compared with getting around by car or bus. Just remember to watch the road when the scenery is sublime. Motorbiking is still the mode of transport for many Lao residents, so you'll find repair shops everywhere. If you are not confident riding a motorbike, it's comparatively cheap to hire someone to drive it for you. For those seeking true adventure there is no better way to go.
Where to Go
AThe Loop Tame the back roads of uncharted central Laos in this motorbike circuit out of Tha Khaek.
ASouthern Swing Explore some off-the-beaten-path places in southern Laos with this motorbike adventure up on to the Bolaven Plateau and beyond.
AWest Vang Vieng Delve deep into the limestone karsts that pepper the west bank of the Nam Song with this scenically stunning motorbike ride.
Boat Trips, Kayaking & Tubing
With the Mekong cutting a swathe through the heart of the country, it is hardly surprising to find that boat trips are a major drawcard here. There are also opportunities to explore small jungled tributaries leading to remote minority villages.
Kayaking has exploded in popularity in Laos in the past few years, particularly around Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw and Vang Vieng, all popular destinations for a spot of paddling. Kayaking trips start from around US$25 per person and are often combined with cycling.
Tubing down the river has long been a popular activity in Vang Vieng
and is now a more sedate affair with the clamp down on riverside bars, rope swings and aerial runways. Tubing is a lot of fun, but it’s a safer experience sober.
Where to Go
AHuay Xai to Luang Prabang Down the mighty Mekong from the Golden Triangle via Pak Beng to the old royal capital of Laos.
ANong Khiaw to Muang Ngoi Neua A short but very sweet ride passing through a striking landscape of karst limestone.
ASi Phan Don A kayak trip or boat is the only way to see the Four Thousand Islands, where the Mekong spreads its girth to around 13km.
ATham Kong Lor Cruise through this otherworldly 7km cave system – the Lao answer to the River Styx.
AVang Vieng Go with the flow on the Nam Song in the tubing capital of Laos.
Tubing on the Nam Song, Vang Vieng | TOMPOST/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Rock Climbing & Caving
When it comes to organised climbing, Vang Vieng and Tha Khaek have some of the best climbing in Southeast Asia, along with excellent instructors and safe equipment. Climbing costs from about US$25 per person for a group of four and rise for more specialised climbs or for instruction.
Real caving of the spelunker variety is not really on offer unless undertaking a professional expedition. However, there are many extensive cave systems that are open to visitors.
Where to Go
AVang Vieng More than 200 rock-climbing routes – many of them bolted – up the limestone cliffs, plus some impressive caves to explore.
AVieng Xai Caves Underground base and wartime capital of the Pathet Lao communists, these caves are set beneath stunning limestone rock formations.
ATham Kong Lor This river cave is not for the faint-hearted, but offers one of the most memorable underground experiences in Laos.
ATham Lot Se Bang Fai The most impressive of Khammuan's cave systems; a river plunges 6.5km through a limestone mountain and can only be explored between January and March.
Tham Kong Lor | EVENFH/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO ©
ZIPLINING
Ziplining has, well, quite literally taken off in Laos. The Gibbon Experience (%030-5745866, 084-212021; www.gibbonexperience.org; 2-day Express US$190, 3-day Classic or Waterfall US$310; h7am-5pm) in Bokeo Nature Reserve pioneered the use of ziplines to glide through the forest where the gibbons roam. Stay overnight in treehouses and test drive the Gibbon Spa for a massage in the most memorable of locations.
Ecotourism pioneer Green Discovery now offers an alternative zipline experience for thrill-seekers in southern Laos. Its Treetop Explorer tour is an exciting network of vertiginous ziplines passing over the semi-evergreen canopy of the south's Dong Hua Sao NPA. Ride so close to a giant waterfall you can taste the spray on your lips.
Vang Vieng has recently emerged as a zipline centre with several companies offering aerial adventures among the karst, including the Vang Vieng Challenge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-511230; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th Luang Prabang).
Animal Encounters
While wildlife-spotting may not be quite as straightforward as on the Serengeti, it is still possible to have some memorable encounters in Laos.
Where to Go
AGibbon Experience Take to the trees to live like a gibbon in the jungle canopy at this celebrated ecotourism project.
AElephant Conservation Center Learn about the life of the Laotian elephant at this superb conservation centre near Sainyabuli.
ASi Phan Don The freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin is one of the rarest mammals on earth, with fewer than 100 inhabiting stretches of the Mekong. View them in their natural habitat off the shore of Don Khon in southern Laos.
ANam Nern Night Safari The Nam Et/Phou Louey NPA is the last official home of tigers in Laos, and this exciting night trip by boat uses torchlight to scope out forest animals coming to the river to drink.
AKuang Si Rescue Centre (www.freethebears.org.au; Kuang Si Waterfall; admission incl with Tat Kuang Si ticket; h8.30am-4.30pm) Tat Kuang Si is a must-visit destination thanks to its iconic menthol-blue waters, plus the chance to see Asiatic Wild Moon bears saved from the wildlife trade.
Regions at a Glance
For many short-stay visitors, Luang Prabang is their Laos experience. And a mighty impressive one it is too, thanks to its deserved World Heritage Site status. Laos' other main city, its capital Vientiane, may be bucolic for an Asian city, but it hits home on the charm stakes, with attractive cafes, stylish restaurants and lively little bars.
Beyond lies northern Laos, a landscape of towering mountains and dense forests that is home to extensive national parks, rare wildlife and some of the most colourful minorities in the region.
The middle of the country is one of the least travelled regions. Some of the most dramatic cave systems in Asia are found here, together with spectacular scenery and crumbling colonial-era towns. Head south to live life in the slow lane. The Mekong islands of Si Phan Don suck people in for longer than expected, and there is a real buzz on the Bolaven Plateau – not just from the coffee.
Regions at a Glance
Luang Prabang & Around
Wining & Dining
World-class dining is on the menu, with many impressive eateries set in beautifully restored colonial-era properties. As the evening moves on, there are some bohemian little bars and swanky watering holes.
Outside Luang Prabang
It's not all temples and monks in Luang Prabang, despite the iconic imagery. Just beyond the 'burbs lie action and adventure, including inviting waterfalls, mountain-bike trails and ziplines.
Art & Antiquities
The night market on the main drag is lit up with fairy lights and draws visitors to browse its textiles and trinkets. Around town are art galleries and antique shops that reward the curious shopaholic.
Regions at a Glance
Northern Laos
Massive Jungle
The jungle really is massive in northern Laos. This region is home to rewarding national parks and the best trekking in the whole country, not to mention cycling, kayaking and ziplining.
All Aboard
The Mekong meander from the Golden Triangle down to lovely Luang Prabang is one of the most iconic river trips in the region. Smaller rivers reward with fairy-tale scenery, particularly the Nam Ou (Ou River) around Nong Khiaw.
On the Trail of War
The convoluted history of modern Laos comes alive here. Discover the Vieng Xai Caves where the Pathet Lao based their underground government while dodging US bombs, or explore the Plain of Jars, one of the most contested areas in the country in the 1960s.
Regions at a Glance
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around
Fine Dining
Vientiane’s spectrum of global cuisine ranges from Italian to Japanese. But perhaps its ace card is its chic French restaurants, so redolent of Indochina they could make the Seine glow green with envy.
Healthy Living
Vientiane has great bike tours, yoga classes, running clubs, swimming pools and, come the early morning, free Mao-style mass exercises by the Mekong riverfront.
Tailor-Made Shopping
Expect tasteful locally sourced soap shops and silk boutiques hawking made-to-measure chemises, boho dresses and pashminas. You can still buy lacquer Tintin prints or old Russian watches if that's your thing.
Regions at a Glance
Central Laos
Going Underground
Central Laos is honeycombed with caves ranging from small, Buddha-ornamented grottoes with swimmable green lagoons, to monstrous river caves, such as Tham Kong Lor, which is cloaked in preternatural darkness.
Colonial-Era Towns
French colonials left not just boule and baguettes here, but also some elegant architecture, still seen today in cities like Tha Khaek and Savannakhet, and ranging from beautifully restored to ghostly decrepit.
Two-Wheeled Touring
Hit the Loop on a motorbike or, if training for the Tour de Laos, bicycle, and experience sublime scenery and destinations a world away from the tour
ist trail of mainstream Southeast Asia.
Regions at a Glance
Southern Laos
Mekong Islands
Zoning out in Si Phan Don is the quintessential southern Laos experience, but do prise yourself away your hammock to engage with laid-back locals or kayak around this sublime slice of the Mekong.
Walks & Waterfalls
Jungle walks in a clutch of national parks lead to minority villages, crumbling temples and some of Laos' highest waterfalls. Combine your trek with a village homestay for the ultimate experience.