Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 28

  The Top at KOMTARVIEWPOINT

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 3800; http://thetop.com.my; Jln Penang)

  There are all kinds of attractions promised in this major revamp of part of George Town's iconic KOMTAR tower, which was well under way during our latest research visit. Likely to have the widest appeal is the Rainbow Skywalk on the 68th-floor rooftop of the building along with an observation deck below. Also promised are various indoor theme-park rides and areas at lower levels and the Penang State Gallery focusing on local history.

  Check the website for admission fees and opening hours.

  Komik AsiaMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-371 5512; www.paccm.com.my; Level 2, ICT Mall KOMTAR; RM20; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, until 9pm Sat & Sun)

  If you don't know your Lat from your Tezuka Osamu, then this is the place to become more closely acquainted with the dynamic art of comic-book artists from across the region. Kids and not a few adults will love this remarkable collection from nine Asian countries, including Malaysia, China, Japan and Korea. There's a good gift shop, too.

  To find the museum, enter the mall from Lebuh Lintang and take the lift to the 2nd floor.

  Wat ChayamangkalaramBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (Temple of the Reclining Buddha; GOOGLE MAP ; 17 Lg Burma; h7am-6pm)F

  The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is a typical Thai temple; differences from Malay Chinese Buddhist temples include the design of roofs which have sharp eaves and the presence of chedi (stupa; solid bell-shaped pillars) in the compound. Inside it houses a 33m-long reclining Buddha draped in a gold-leafed saffron robe.

  The temple is about 2.5km northwest of central George Town; a taxi here will cost RM15.

  UNESCO & GEORGE TOWN

  In 2008, the historic centre of George Town was designated a Unesco World Heritage site for having ‘a unique architectural and cultural townscape without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia’. A 'core' area comprising 1700 buildings and a 'buffer', which together span east from the waterfront as far west as Jln Transfer and Jln Dr Lim Chwee Leong, were drawn up, and the structures within these areas have been thoroughly catalogued and are protected by strict zoning laws. Details about the Unesco designation can be seen at George Town World Heritage Incorporated where you can also pick up informative free guides about George Town’s architecture.

  The general consensus is that the Unesco listing has been a good thing for George Town, having helped the city safeguard its age-old feel while also reaping the benefits of a facelift. The designation seems to have sparked an interest in local culture among residents, and some claim that it has also had the effect of drawing younger locals back to the city, which suffered from a debilitating 'brain drain' during the 1980s and 1990s.

  However, there's no arguing that the listing has also been a double-edged sword. Many once-abandoned buildings have been snatched up by developers hoping to cash in, and property values have skyrocketed. Today, some shophouses can easily sell for more than US$1 million, and 'heritage' hotels and cutesy cafes can be found on just about every street in George Town. Not all of them have been renovated according to strict heritage rules. Uncontrolled rents haven't helped either, with some landlords hiking rates to over RM10,000 a month. The consequence is that the traditional shops and trades that gave the area much of its unique flavour are being forced to close down or move out to less pricey areas of the city.

  5Eating

  You'll soon realise why locals are so passionate about the food here. The diversity of George Town's food scene is breathtaking. Whether you choose to dine at hawker stalls or the finest white-tablecloth restaurants, you're sure to find quality food.

  1Inside the Heritage Zone

  oTho Yuen RestaurantCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 92 Lebuh Campbell; dim sum RM1.60-8; h6am-3pm Wed-Mon)

  Our favourite place for dim sum. It’s packed with newspaper-reading loners and chattering groups of locals all morning long, but you can usually squeeze in somewhere. Servers speak minimal English but do their best to explain the contents of their carts.

  Sri Ananda BahwanINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-264 4204; http://srianandabahwan.com.my/53.html; 53-55 Lebuh Penang; mains from RM3; h7am-11.30pm; v)

  The local version of fast food – but so much better. This place is busy and buzzy, and whips up everything from tandoori chicken to vegetarian Indian dishes.

  Its vegetarian-only outlet is a few doors along the street at No 25.

  Wai KeiCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lebuh Chulia; mains RM7; h11am-2pm)

  This gem sits in the middle of the greatest concentration of travellers in George Town, yet is somehow almost exclusively patronised (in enthusiastic numbers) by locals. Come on the early side of the three-hour open window for char siew (barbequed pork) and siew yoke (pork belly) that are considered among the best in town.

  HameediyahMALAYSIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 1095; 164 Lebuh Campbell; mains RM5.50-25; h10am-10pm)

  Dating back to 1907 and allegedly the oldest nasi kandar (rice with curries and veggies) place in Malaysia, Hameediyah looked it until its recent facelift. In addition to rich curries served over rice, try the murtabak, a roti prata (flaky, flat bread) stuffed with minced mutton, chicken or vegetables, egg and spices.

  Hong Kee Bamboo NoodleNOODLES$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 9875; 37 Lebuh Campbell; noodles from RM6; h6.30am-10pm)

  Known for its high-quality wan thun mee (noodle soup with dumplings), and at this shop you can see the noodles being handmade and prepared while you slurp. Good side dishes, too.

  Goh Thew ChikCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 338A Lebuh Chulia; mains RM4.50-6; h11am-5pm Wed-Mon)

  This simple cafe draws in the crowds for its lunchtime servings of Hainanese chicken rice, so you may have to wait for a table. The meat is well cooked and juicy and comes with the traditional bowl of stock as well as a mound of rice.

  Fu Er DaiDIM SUM$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9289; 7 Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah; dim sum RM1.70-6; h6.30am-2pm)

  There's a wide range of tasty steamed and fried small Chinese dishes served under this black-painted open shed with sea views across the busy road.

  Ming Xiang Tai Pastry DelightsCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/MingXiangTai1979; 166 Lebuh Victoria; pastries from RM2; h9am-9pm)

  What started as a Chinese egg tart business run from a trishaw in the 1970s has blossomed into a mini-empire of pastry shops around George Town. You can watch the sweet and savoury tarts and buns being made on one side of the shop, and take your pick of the produce along with refreshing herbal tea drinks from the other.

  Other branches of Ming Xiang Tai can be found at 475A Jln Penang and 133 Jln Burma.

  Quay CaféVEGETARIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Gat Lebuh Gereja; mains RM5-15; h11am-2pm Mon-Sat; av)

  A modern-feeling cafeteria serving Asian-style meat-free dishes. Expect set meals, an emphasis on noodle dishes, fresh juices and herbal teas.

  Veloo VillasINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 4369; 22 Lebuh Penang; set meals RM5-9.50; h7am-10pm; v)

  For one meal, set aside notions of service – and ambience – and instead focus on the vibrant, fun southern Indian cuisine. Come from approximately 11am to 4pm for hearty and diverse rice-based set meals, or outside of these hours for dosa (paper-thin rice-and-lentil crepes) and other snacks.

  oTeksenCHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-981 5117; 18 Lebuh Carnarvon; mains RM10-30; hnoon-3pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon)

  There's a reason this place is always packed: it's one of the tastiest, most consistent restaurants in town (and in a place like George Town that's saying a lot). You almost can't go wrong here, but don't miss the favourites – the 'double roasted pork with chilli padi' is obligatory and delicious – and be sure to ask about the daily specials.

  oMy Nonya FavouritesMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE
MAP ; %04-262 6696; 20F Lebuh Penang; mains RM15-30; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Fri-Wed)

  Nothing to look at, this humble restaurant rightly gets the thumbs up from in-the-know locals for its tasty, authentic Peranakan (Nonya) dishes such as cincalok cher bak (stir-fried belly pork) and eggs belanda (eggs in tamarind gravy). The set lunch (RM6.90 to RM11.90) is a steal.

  Jawi HouseMALAYSIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jawihouse.com; 85 Lebuh Armenian; mains RM18-32; h11am-10pm Wed-Mon; W)

  This cosy, shophouse restaurant specialises in the type of unique Muslim dishes you'd be hard-pressed to find outside of a local home or celebration. The fragrant biryani comes with prawns, chicken, lamb or beef and there are four different types of rice to choose from including 'lemuni rice', which is seasoned with flower petals.

  Boey Chong KeeCHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 7672; People's Court, off Lebuh Campbell; mains RM5-15; h6.30-10pm)

  Crowd-pleasing dishes such as stir-fried noodles, ginger stewed duck and sweet-and-sour pork are very competently done here, but it's primarily the courtyard setting – outdoor tables surrounded by the comings and goings from the surrounding low-rise public housing block – that is the clincher. It feels like dining in the Penang version of Rear Window.

  Da Shu Xia Seafood HouseCHINESE$$

  (Tree Shade Seafood Restaurant; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-474 5566; 177C Lebuh Victoria; mains RM10-50; h11am-3.30pm & 5-10pm Thu-Tue)

  This open-air shack has lost the shade of the tree it was originally named after, but it remains a place where locals go for cheap and tasty seafood. Pick your aquatic protein from the trays out front, and the staff will fry, steam, soup or grill it up for you.

  Via PreITALIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 0560; www.facebook.com/viapre; 20 Lebuh Penang; mains RM19-36; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

  Expect traditional Italian dishes, tasty pizzas and superb desserts at this well-respected restaurant that has a new, intimate home on the edge of Little India.

  Awesome CanteenINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 3707; www.facebook.com/awesomecanteenpg; 164 Lebuh Victoria; mains RM20-25; h11am-11pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun)

  Although this relaxed bistro and cafe offers a paleo menu (no processed food and grains), it's the other options – such as the Japanese rice bowls topped with grilled chicken and the peanut-butter-filled beef burgers – that catch the eye and nicely fill the stomach.

  If you like the look of the place, with its airy courtyard of skinny trees and industrial-chic furnishings, consider booking a stay in the suites here via www.sekeping.com.

  KirishimaJAPANESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-370 0108; Cititel, 66 Jln Penang; set meals from RM35; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; aW)

  Japanese living in or visiting Penang head straight here for the well-prepared sushi and other authentic dishes. Sake bottles line the walls, and there's a counter by the kitchen that's great for single diners. Set menus offer the best deal.

  Cozy in the RocketITALIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 262-264 Lebuh Pantai; mains RM25-40; h9.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; W)

  Named after the favourite song of owners Hong and Yen, this arty, airy place offers a winning combo of a courtyard garden, good coffee, refreshing drinks and some of the best artisan pasta dishes Penang has to offer. However, it can get very busy at lunch, when orders can take up to an hour to arrive on your table.

  Moody CowDESSERTS$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-226 2646; www.facebook.com/moodycowpenang; 170 Jln Transfer; cheescakes RM20-26; h11am-midnight; W)

  Lovers of cheesecake and other sweet treats rejoice. There are scores of flavours of the dessert available, including locally inspired ones such as salted egg, durian and jackfruit (chempadak) at this super kitschy cafe in a black-and-yellow-painted building.

  oKebayaPERANAKAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-264 2333; http://kebaya.com.my; Seven Terraces, 8 Lg Stewart; set dinner RM120; h6-10pm Tue-Sun; a)

  This is your chance to sample superb, subtly flavoured Peranakan-influenced cuisine. The stately dining room, part of the Seven Terraces hotel, is decorated with a gorgeous collection of antiques, set to a soundtrack of live piano. Set four-course dinners are served at two sittings (either starting at 6pm or 8pm).

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  CLANHOUSES

  Between the mid-1800s and the mid-1900s Penang welcomed a huge influx of Chinese immigrants, primarily from China’s Fujian province. To help introduce uncles, aunties, cousins, 10th cousins, old neighbourhood buddies and so on to their new home, the Chinese formed clan associations and built clanhouses, known locally as kongsi, to create a sense of community, provide lodging and help find employment for newcomers. In addition to functioning as ‘embassies’ of sorts, clanhouses also served as a deeper social, even spiritual, link between an extended clan, its ancestors and its social obligations.

  As time went on, many clan associations became extremely prosperous and their buildings became more ornate. Clans – called ‘secret societies’ by the British – began to compete with each other over the decadence and number of their temples. Due to this rivalry, today Penang has one of the densest concentrations of clan architecture found outside China.

  oKhoo KongsiHISTORIC BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.khookongsi.com.my; 18 Cannon Sq; adult/child RM10/1; h9am-5pm)

  This spectacular clanhouse is one of the most impressive in George Town. Guided tours begin at the stone carvings that dance across the entrance hall and pavilions, many of which symbolise or are meant to attract good luck and wealth. The interior is dominated by incredible murals depicting birthdays, weddings and, most impressively, the 36 celestial guardians. Gorgeous ceramic sculptures of immortals, carp, dragons, and carp becoming dragons dance across the roof ridges.

  oCheah KongsiHISTORIC BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 3837; www.cheahkongsi.com.my; 8 Lebuh Armenian; adult/child RM10/5; h9am-5pm)

  Looking splendid after a recent major restoration, Cheah Kongsi is home to the oldest Straits Chinese clan association in Penang. The ornate front of the clanhouse can be seen clearly across a grassy lawn from Lebuh Pantai, but the official entrance where you need to buy a ticket is on Lebuh Armenian.

  Besides serving as a temple and assembly hall, this building has also been the registered headquarters of several clans.

  2Neighbourhood Walk

  Five Cultures on Two Feet

  Start Penang Museum

  End Khoo Kongsi

  Length 2.25km; three to four hours

  This walk will give you a glimpse of George Town’s cultural mix: English, Indian, Malay, Peranakan and Chinese.

  Starting at 1Penang Museum, head west and then north towards the waterfront, passing the 2Supreme Court. Note the statue of James Richardson Logan, advocate for non-whites during the colonial era. Walk north along Lebuh Duke to the waterfront, then head south along Jln Padang Kota Lama past the vast 3Padang (field) and grandiose architecture of the 4City Hall and 5Town Hall. Proceed east along Lebuh Light, then south on Lebuh Penang. A short detour east along Lebuh Gereja finds the impressive 6Pinang Peranakan Mansion, the former digs of one of George Town’s great Peranakan merchant barons.

  Returning to Lebuh Penang, head south into 7Little India and take a deep breath of all that spice; if it’s around lunchtime, refuel with an authentic southern Indian–style banana-leaf thali meal. At Lebuh Pasar, head west past shops selling milky South Asian sweets, then south at Lebuh King to the intersection of 8Lebuh King and Lebuh Ah Quee, a literal example of Penang’s cultural crossroads. To your south is a Chinese assembly hall and rows of fading Chinese shophouses; to your north is a small Indian mosque; and across the street is a large Malaysian restaurant.

  Head east along Lebuh Ah Quee, then south along Jln Pantai; you're now at 9Lebuh Armenian. Among George Town's most gentrified streets today, it was formerly a centre for Chinese secret s
ocieties and was one of the main fighting stages of the 1867 riots. Stroll east along restored shophouses until you reach aCheah Kongsi, home to the oldest Straits Chinese clan association in Penang.

  Cross the street to the corner of Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling and the bright green 1924 Hokkien clanhouse bYap Kongsi. Head south on Lebuh Cannon and duck into the magnificently ornate cKhoo Kongsi, the most impressive kongsi (clan meeting house) in the city.

  1Outside the Heritage Zone

  Ocean GreenSEAFOOD$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-227 4530; www.paramounthotel.com.my/restaurant.html; 48F Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah; dishes from RM10; hnoon-11pm)

  There's a menu at this waterfront seafood smorgasbord, but talk to your server about what's fresh. The dining hall is invariably packed – if it's too busy or hot, ask about the air-con rooms in the adjacent Paramount Hotel. It's a good idea to reserve. We loved the crab bee hoon (glass noodles) and prawns with chilli dipping sauce.

  Bali Hai Seafood MarketSEAFOOD$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-228 8272; www.balihaiseafood.com; 90 Persiaran Gurney; mains RM20-100; h9am-10pm)

  A massive, always-packed seafood joint with big round tables inside and a few thatched huts outside, across from the waterfront promenade. The restaurant's motto is 'if it swims, we have it' – and they do, in a mind-boggling array of tanks where you can pick out your critters. You can also come here for dim sum in the mornings.