Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 22

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2072 6877; www.reggaehostelsmalaysia.com/mansion; 49-59 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm/d from RM55/130; aiW; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  Grooving to a beat that's superior to that of most backpacker places, this is one cool operation. The decor is whitewashed faux colonial with contemporary touches, including a lively rooftop bar, a mini cinema and a flash cafe-bar where a free meal is served in the evenings. Ask for a quieter room away from the bar if you're not a night owl.

  Lantern HotelHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2020 1648; www.lanternhotel.com; 38 Jln Petaling; d incl breakfast RM95-115; aW; LRT Pasar Seni)

  You can't get more central to Chinatown than this slickly designed, contemporary hotel. The simple, whitewashed rooms with feature lime or tangerine walls all have their own bathrooms – the cheapest ones have no windows, others have small balconies. A huge plus is the terrace with a cityscape mural, creeper plants and a bird's-eye view of Petaling Street Market.

  Paloma InnHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 6677; www.hotelpalomainn.com.my; 12-14 Jln Sin Chew Kee; dm/s/d incl breakfast from RM48/95/128; aiW; DHang Tuah)

  Set on a backstreet of painted pre-war shophouses, Paloma is a great hang-out that's well run and quiet, but also super central. VCR cafe is just around the corner for superb espresso, while the nightlife of Changkat Bukit Bintang is a 10-minute walk away. Rates are slightly higher Friday to Sunday.

  Explorers GuesthouseHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 2928; www.theexplorersguesthouse.com; 128-130 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm/d incl breakfast from RM38/97; aiW; LRT Pasar Seni)

  One of Chinatown's more appealing hostels, the Explorers is comfortable and well run. The spacious lobby leads on to clean rooms with colourfully painted walls and a few arty touches, and there's a roof terrace. All rooms share bathrooms.

  oSarang Vacation HomesGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-333 5666; www.sarangvacationhomes.com; 6 Jln Galloway; s/d incl breakfast from RM120/150; aW; DHang Tuah)

  Michael and Christina run this appealing bed-and-breakfast operation. They have houses, apartments and rooms in five nearby locations and can accommodate single travellers and families alike. The furnishings are simple, the vibe is relaxed and welcoming and the location is excellent. It’s a skip away from Jln Alor in a residential shophouse enclave.

  The couple also runs an excellent cafe, and cooking classes through Sarang Cookery.

  Paper Plane HostelHOSTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 1676; www.paperplanehostel.com; 15 Jln Sin Chew Kee; dm/d RM74/170; aW; DHang Tuah)

  A 90-year-old shophouse on photogenic Jln Sin Chew Kee has been converted into this spotlessly clean, hipstertastic hostel with original features and exposed brick walls. The space doubles as a gallery for boss Sam's artworks and murals. Loft-room dorms have dizzying three-tier bunks. Bathrooms are shared.

  Hotel 1000 MilesHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 3333; http://1000mileskl.com; 17 & 19 Jln Tun HS Lee; d incl breakfast from RM115; aiW; LRT Masjid Jamek)

  Channelling a vague 1960s feel (black-and-white photos of KL, a few modish pieces of mid-century modern furniture), this bright hotel has kerb appeal and friendly management. The rooms are all en suite and fine, and the roof terrace has good views of the Menara KL. Rates increase slightly at weekends.

  Sekeping Sin Chew KeeAPARTMENT$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sekeping.com; 3 Jln Sin Chew Kee; d/apt RM250/800; aW; DHang Tuah)

  Architect Ng Seksan’s pared-back, quirky style is in full evidence at this rough-luxe accommodation tucked away on Jln Sin Chew Kee, one of the last pre-war shophouse rows in the city. Raw yet beautiful and decorated with fab local art, the upstairs apartment sleeps up to eight and has a kitchen and outdoor relaxation space.

  Barlai is on the ground floor, so it can be a bit noisy.

  AnCasa Hotel & Spa Kuala LumpurHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2026 6060; www.ancasa-hotel.com; Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; d incl breakfast from RM258; ai; LRT Plaza Rakyat)

  Promotional rates (including Friday to Sunday rates of RM160) make this one of Chinatown’s best midrange options. The comfortable rooms are well equipped and there's an in-house Balinese-style spa.

  5 Elements HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2031 6888; www.the5elementshotel.com.my; lot 243 Jln Sultan; s/tw/d incl breakfast from RM150/180/190; aiW; LRT Pasar Seni)

  Offering a good range of rooms, some with views towards Menara KL, this reasonable midrange hotel makes a credible stab at boutique styling with a sensuous design motif snaking its way across the corridor and bedroom walls.

  Pacific Regency Hotel SuitesAPARTMENT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2332 7777; www.pacific-regency.com; Jln Punchak, Menara Panglobal; apt incl breakfast from RM465; aiWs; DBukit Nanas)

  These upmarket self-catering studios and serviced apartments are good value compared with the rooms of a similar standard at KL's other five-star properties. Head up top to enjoy the rooftop pool and bar, Luna ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2332 7777; www.pacific-regency.com; 34th fl, Pacific Regency Hotel Suites, Jln Punchak, off Jln P Ramlee; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; gKL Tower).

  4Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL

  Tune Hotel DowntownHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2694 3301; www.tunehotels.com; 316 Jln TAR; s/d from RM69/79; aiW; DMedan Tuanku)

  This clean and well-run place offers excellent value if you book online in advance: a double including all the usual amenities starts at RM79. Rooms have TVs and attached bathrooms with rain showers.

  ReedsBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2602 0330; www.thereedshotel.com; 9 Jln Yap Ah Shak; dm/s/d from RM45/98/120; aW; DMedan Tuanku)

  Handy for the dining and nightlife on Jln Doraisamy and exploring nearby Kampung Baru, teal-painted Reeds has boutique stylings and a wide range of rooms of varying quality. Interesting decorative touches include old Chinese posters, patterned wallpaper on feature walls, and a very comfy lounge/lobby area with a cafe bar. Not all rooms have windows.

  VistanaHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4042 8000; www.vistanahotels.com; 9 Jln Lumut; d from RM265; aiWs; DTitiwangsa, LRT Titiwangsa)

  Steps from the Titiwangsa stations and a pleasant riverside food court is this fine upper-midrange choice with decently proportioned and decorated rooms and public areas. The small swimming pool is a plus.

  Bagasta Boutique GuesthouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2698 9988; www.bagasta.com.my; 56 Jln Raja Alang; d from RM180; aW; LRT Kampung Baru)

  Even though it's not in one of the old wooden mansions of Kampung Baru, there are good views of the area from this small hotel in a modern block. The spacious, simple rooms incorporate local crafts and a sprinkling of Malay design (wood from old kampung houses was used to make headboards), giving it more character than other midrange options.

  KLIA TRANSIT HOTELS

  If all you need to do is freshen up before or after your flight, KL has a number of decent transit-accommodation options.

  Capsule by Container Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-7610 2020; www.capsulecontainer.com; L1-2 & 3, Gateway, KLIA2; s for 6/9/12hr RM80/100/110, d for 6/9/12hr RM160/200/220; aiW; dKLIA) Grab forty winks at this contemporary crash pad, where the capsule rooms are housed in cleverly adapted transportation containers. During the day a bed for up to six hours costs RM55. Use of a shower (no bed) costs RM20. Located next to KLIA2.

  Sama-Sama Express KLIA ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8787 4848; www.samasamaexpress.com; Mezzanine Level, Satellite A Bldg, KLIA, Gate C; d for 6/12hr RM280/560; aW; dKLIA) Located inside the terminal (air side), this hotel offers rooms with private bathrooms and TVs. A stay of 12 hours or longer includes a buffet breakfast. Use of a shower only (no room stay) costs RM45. The company also runs a branch ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8787 3333; www.samasamahotels.com; r from RM500; aiWs; dKLIA) at KLIA2.

  Tune Hotel KLIA2 ( GOOGLE MAP ; %130
0 88 8863; www.tunehotels.com; Lot PT 13, Jln KLIA 2/2; r from RM200; aW; dKLIA2) A decent option if you have an early flight, the Tune Hotel is connected to the airport terminal via a covered walkway. There is a cafe-bar and a convenience store on the ground floor. Book online in advance for the best rates.

  4Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar

  PODsHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2276 0858; www.podsbackpacker.com; 1-6, 30 Jln Thambipillay; dm/s/d with shared bathroom RM35/65/85; aW; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  This basic backpackers offers some of the cheapest beds in town. Note partitions between the rooms are flimsy and mattresses are on the floor. There's a pleasant cafe on the ground floor for breakfast and bikes can be rented for RM30 per day.

  oAloft Kuala Lumpur SentralHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2723 1188; www.starwoodhotels.com/alofthotels; 5 Jln Stesen Sentral; d RM330-600; aiWs; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  Designed for the Google generation of young creatives, Aloft is industrial chic meets plastic fantastic. Staff are super friendly and you have to smile at the witty cartoon art in each of the spacious, well-designed rooms. Place a big tick against its infinity rooftop pool and bar with one of the best views in KL.

  oSekeping TenggiriGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-207 5977; www.sekeping.com; 48 Jln Tenggiri; d RM220-330; aWs; LRT Bank Rakyat-Bangsar)

  Providing access to architect Ng Seksan’s superlative private collection of contemporary Malaysian art – displayed in the rooms of the adjoining house – this is a lovely place to stay. The rough-luxe mix of concrete, wood and wire decor (with cleverly recycled materials making up lamp fixtures) is softened by abundant garden greenery and a cooling plunge pool.

  YMCAHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 1439; www.ymcakl.com; 95 Jln Padang Belia; d & tw RM111, tr with shared bathroom RM111; aW; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  Handy for KL Sentral, the Y has spick-and-span (if a little old-fashioned) rooms. There are laundry facilities and a shop and cafe, as well as tennis courts for hire if you become a member, which will also give you 10% off the hotel rates.

  oMajestic HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2785 8000; www.majestickl.com; 5 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; d/ste incl breakfast from RM360/860; aiWs#; dKuala Lumpur)

  Originally opened in 1932 and the pre-WWII KL equivalent of Raffles in Singapore, the impeccably restored Majestic is one of the city's top luxury hotels. Appealing features include an orchid-filled conservatory, two swimming pools and a fine spa with Charles Rennie Mackintosh–inspired decor. Its website provides the best booking deals.

  St Regis Kuala LumpurHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2727 1111; www.stregiskualalumpur.com; 6 Jln Stesen Sentral 2; d/ste from RM1084/3800; Ws; dKL Sentral)

  KL's newest luxury hotel is the extravagantly appointed St Regis. In the lobby, a 2.5-ton bronze horse by Colombian sculptor Fernando Botero sets the tone. Rooms are decorated in old Hollywood glamour style with dark-wood and pale-grey furnishings adorned with plenty of bling, and come with dressing tables and bespoke illuminated mirrors fit for a movie star.

  Gardens Hotel & ResidencesHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2268 1111; www.stgiles.com; Gardens, Lingkaran Syed Putra; d/apt with breakfast from RM330/694; aiWs; dMid Valley)

  Attached to the swanky Gardens Mall, this luxury hotel and serviced residences are very appealing. Wood panelling with lattice details and striking flower prints on the walls make the rooms' decor pop; the apartments are even better.

  Hilton Kuala LumpurHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2264 2264; www.hilton.com; 3 Jln Stesen Sentral; d/ste from RM519/919; aiWs; dKL Sentral, DKL Sentral)

  Sharing a fabulous landscaped pool and spa with the Meridien next door, the Hilton offers beautiful contemporary design. Sliding doors open to join the bathroom to the bedroom, picture windows present soaring city views, and rooms are decked out from floor to ceiling in eye-catching materials.

  Melaka City

  Melaka’s remarkable restaurants and cafes

  Feasting on Peranakan curries, Portuguese seafood, Indian banana-leaf spreads and good coffee.

  Chinatown

  Strolling or cycling around this historic area, discovering galleries, craft workshops and the murals along the Melaka River.

  Jonker Walk Night Market

  Experiencing the razzle-dazzle and street food of Melaka City's weekend night market.

  Trishaws

  Going for a spin around the historic centre in one of these kitschy contraptions.

  Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum

  Embracing nostalgia at this atmospheric museum in a gorgeously decorated old home.

  Explore

  Like a peacock, Melaka City is bright and loud and preens with its wealth of homegrown galleries, crimson colonial buildings and showy trishaws.

  Since the city’s historic centre achieved Unesco World Heritage status in 2008, many old shophouses and mansions have enjoyed makeovers as galleries and hotels. The city's kaleidoscope of architectural styles – spanning Peranakan, Portuguese, Dutch and British elements – is well preserved. Tourism has boomed, particularly on weekends when the vibrant Jonker Walk Night Market provides music, shopping and street food galore.

  Inevitably, a strong whiff of commercialism has accompanied this success. However, it's easy to feel the town's old magic (and get a seat at popular restaurants) on quiet weekdays. And Melaka City, as it has for centuries, continues to exude tolerance and welcomes cultural exchange.

  The Best…

  ASight Chinatown

  APlace to Eat Nancy's Kitchen

  APlace to Drink Daily Fix

  Top Tip

  Avoid visiting on the weekends when there are so many photo-snapping tourists that the whole heritage district can feel like front row at a rock concert.

  Getting There & Away

  AAir Melaka International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-317 5860; Lapangan Terbang Batu Berendam), 12km north of Melaka City, has daily flights from Melaka to Penang and Pekanbaru (Indonesia).

  ABus Melaka Sentral ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun Razak), the huge, modern long-distance bus station, is 5km north of the city. A medley of privately run bus companies makes checking timetables a herculean feat; scout popular routes at www.expressbusmalaysia.com/coach-from-melaka. You can buy bus tickets in advance (not a bad idea on busy weekends or if you have a plane to catch) at Discovery Cafe in downtown Melaka City – there's a small commission, dependent on the ticket fare.

  ATaxi Taxis to KL (RM184) leave from Melaka Sentral.

  ATrain Pulau Sebang/Tampin Station is 38km north of Melaka City. Taxis from Melaka to Pulau Sebang/Tampin Station cost around RM80. Alternatively, there's a half-hourly bus from Melaka Sentral (RM5, 1½ hours). There are regular KTM Komuter (http://www.ktmb.com.my) services from Pulau Sebang/Tampin to Seremban from where you can connect with services through to Kuala Lumpur (RM13.70). There are also direct services to Butterworth (from R42, seven hours, two daily), handy for Penang.

  AFerry High-speed ferries make the trip from Melaka to Dumai in Sumatra daily at 10am (one way/return RM110/170, 1¾ hours; child tickets are half-price). Tickets are available at Indomal Express and Tunas Rupat Follow Me Express near the wharf.

  Getting Around

  AWalking/Bicycling Melaka City is small enough to walk around or, for the traffic fearless, you can rent a bike for between RM5 and RM10 per day from guesthouses.

  ABus Bus 17 runs every 15 minutes from Melaka Sentral to the centre of town, past the huge Mahkota Parade shopping complex, to Taman Melaka Raya and on to Medan Portugis. Find local bus route information at www.panoramamelaka.com.my/routes.

  ATrishaw Taking to Melaka City’s streets by trishaw is a must – they should cost RM40 by the hour or RM20 for any one-way trip within town, but you’ll have to bargain.

  ATaxis Charge around RM15 for a trip anywhere around town.

  ACar To
visit other parts of Melaka state you will find it handy to hire a car. Centrally based Hawk has good rates.

  Need to Know

  A Area Code 06

  ALocation Melaka City is 149km from Kuala Lumpur

  A Tourism Malaysia

  History

  The modern city-state of Melaka bloomed from a simple 14th-century fishing village founded by Parameswara, a Hindu prince or pirate (take your pick) from Sumatra. According to legend, Parameswara was inspired to build Melaka after seeing a plucky mouse deer fend off a dog attack.

  Melaka's location halfway between China and India, with easy access to the spice islands of Indonesia, soon attracted merchants from all over the East and it became a favoured port. In 1405, the Chinese Muslim Admiral Cheng Ho arrived in Melaka bearing gifts from the Ming emperor and the promise of protection from Siamese enemies. Chinese settlers followed, who mixed with the local Malays to become known as the Baba and Nonya, Peranakans or Straits Chinese. By the time of Parameswara’s death in 1414, Melaka was a powerful trading state. Its position was consolidated by the state’s adoption of Islam in the mid-15th century.

  In 1509 the Portuguese came seeking spice wealth and in 1511 Alfonso de Albuquerque forcibly took the city. Under the Portuguese, the fortress of A’Famosa was constructed. While Portuguese cannons could easily conquer Melaka, they could not force Muslim merchants from Arabia and India to continue trading there, and other ports in the area, such as Islamic Demak on Java, grew to overshadow Melaka.