Lonely Planet Morocco Page 21

  Step off busy Ave Mohammed V and climb the steps up to this peaceful jardin (garden), with white leather chairs, thick curtains and a tent-like interior overlooking the greenery. Start off with the Lebanese mezzes (taboulet, baba ghanouj, hummus) before moving onto a hearty tajine or a plate of roasted lamb with raisins and almonds.

  Accord MajeurFRENCH, ITALIAN€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 24 73; www.restaurant-accord-majeur.com; Rue Al-Mansour Ad-Dahbi; meals Dh200-275; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat)

  After a week of desert dining, you may find yourself sleepwalking to this French bistro opposite the Berbère Palace. Here, in cosy nooks lit by a mellow, yellow glow from dozens of brass wall lamps, Aurélie and Charlie serve an impressive menu of foie gras, smoked salmon, beef carpaccio, duck confit and even homemade liquorice-and-mint ice cream.

  If there are any film stars in town, they'll probably be dining here too.

  Le Relais Saint ExupéryFUSION€€€

  (%0524 88 77 79; www.relais-ouarzazate.com; 13 Blvd Moulay Abdellah; mains Dh90-160; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm)

  The Relais serves creative dishes featuring local ingredients such as Talouine saffron and Saharan salt. Try flaky pastilla of fish, or dromedary meat in a Mali-inspired sauce of garlic, cumin, ginger and paprika. It may seem odd to find adventurous gastronomy near the Ouarzazate airport, but this airport was an inspiration to Little Prince author and pilot Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.

  DON'T MISS

  LA KASBAH DES SABLES

  Putting Ouarzazate’s film credentials to good use, there is little about La Kasbah des Sables (%0524 88 54 28; www.lakasbahdessables.com; 195 Hay Aït Kdif; meals Dh200-340; hnoon-2pm & 7-11pm; p) that won’t leave you slack-jawed. The 5km journey west of Ouarzazate to the old neighbourhood of Al Kdif is a suitable adventure to whet your appetite for the Arabian Nights spectacle within.

  Housed behind the walls of an old Glaoui Kasbah, this 900-sq-metre restaurant is the creation of Brigitte Babolat, who conceived an extraordinary medley of art-filled lounges and nooks arranged around patios hung with grand cut-brass chandeliers dangling like oversized Christmas baubles. The centerpiece is an enormous shallow pool backed by a wall of jewel-coloured lights and surrounded by romantic, candlelit tables where diners are served a mix of Moroccan and French dishes such as barbot and saffron or chicken with Atlas morels. Afterwards, recline in cushion-lined cubbyholes filled with objets d’art crafted in Ouarzazate and Marrakesh. In the morning you’ll have to shake yourself and wonder if you didn’t dream the whole experience.

  7Shopping

  Horizon ArtisanatARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 69 38; 181 Ave Annasr; h9am-7pm)

  Henna-painted pottery, hand-painted tea glasses, and silver filigree rings are sold at reasonable fixed prices, supporting Horizon’s programs to provide vocational training for adults with disabilities and integrate disabled children and adults into the community. The association supports some 2500 people, including 53 permanent staff members.

  Complexe ArtisanalARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Sat)

  Opposite the kasbah, this sprawling collection of state-run showrooms features elaborately woven tapestries, local stone carvings, inlaid daggers, metal lanterns and embroidered linens.

  Coopérative de TissageARTS & CRAFTS

  (Weaving Cooperative; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 61 05 83; Ave Mohammed V; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

  Inside the Complexe Artisanal, glimpse women artisans at work (Monday to Friday) on hanbels and embroidered straw mats, and take one home at posted fixed prices (Dh550 to Dh1100 per sq metre).

  STOCK UP BEFORE YOU HIT THE DESERT

  SupermarchéSUPERMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h8am-10pm)

  Carries all the desert essentials: water, toothpaste, lip balm, packaged soups, cookies, vodka and argan anti-cellulite lotion.

  SupermarketSUPERMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Moulay Rachid; h8am-midnight)

  This large supermarket has imported European foods. Fresh breads are in front on the left.

  8Information

  Emergency

  Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %19; Ave Mohammed V)

  Internet Access

  You'll still find a few internet cafes (one hour for around Dh10) around town, including one at the northern end of Ave Mohammed V. Most hotels and guesthouses also offer free wi-fi.

  Medical Services

  Pharmacies line Ave Mohammed V and post a list of night pharmacies in their windows after hours.

  Hôpital Bougafer ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 24 44; Ave Mohammed V) Public hospital east of the tourist office.

  Money

  Banks with ATMs line the northern end of Ave Mohammed V.

  Post & Telephone

  Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Postal services and a direct-dial international phone.

  Tourist Information

  Délégation Régionale du Tourisme (ONMT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 24 85; Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-4.30pm) Stocks a few brochures and offers limited advice. Hotels will be able to provide more information.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Two kilometres north of town is the Ouarzazate airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 43 58 58; www.onda.ma). Royal Air Maroc ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 51 02; www.royalairmaroc.com; 1 Ave Mohammed V) has daily flights direct to Casablanca. Flights arriving in Ouarzazate from Casa tend to land inconveniently just before midnight when night fares apply to taxi services.

  During the annual Haj pilgrimage and popular events such as the Marathon des Sables there are extra flights.

  Bus

  Supratours operates buses from Marrakesh (Dh80, 4½ hours, three daily) and one daily service to Zagora (Dh50, three hours), Er-Rachidia (Dh90, 5½ hours) and Merzouga (Dh140, eight hours). Supratours Al Hizam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 89 07 96; Ave Moulay Abdellah; h7.30am-11pm) sells tickets, and the bus stops outside.

  CTM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 24 27; Ave Mohammed V; h7am-10pm) buses also serve Marrakesh (Dh85, five to seven daily), Agadir (Dh140, 7½ hours, one daily), Er-Rachidia (Dh85, 5½ hours, one daily) and Zagora (Dh60, three hours, two to three daily). During local holidays and busy periods, book your tickets at least a day in advance. The CTM bus station is conveniently located bang in the centre of town, near the post office.

  The main, local bus station (Gare Routière; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mahta) is 1km northwest of the town centre off Ave Moulay Abdellah. Several buses a day leave from here to Marrakesh (Dh70, four to five hours), Boumalne du Dadès (Dh35), Taroudannt (Dh80, five hours), Tazenakht (Dh25, three hours), Foum Zguid (Dh40, four hours), Tata (Dh80, five hours) and M’Hamid (Dh75, seven hours) via Zagora (Dh45, four hours).

  Car

  For desert detours you might want to rent a car (from Dh350 per day); car hire with a driver runs Dh900 (car) to Dh1250 (4WD). There are dozens of agencies in town and international outfits such as Avis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 80 00; www.avis.com; cnr Ave Mohammed V & Pl du 3 Mars), Hertz ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 20 84; www.hertz.com; 33 Ave Mohammed V), Budget ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 42 02; www.budget.com; 28 Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat) and National ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 20 35; www.nationalcar.com; Place du 3 Mars) all have booths at the airport, although they are more expensive than local operators. Other operators:

  Desert Evasion ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0524 88 86 82; www.desert-evasion.net; Imm El Ghifari, Ave Mohammed V) Payment due upon receipt of keys. Has 4WDs.

  ESON Maroc ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0666 89 08 99; www.eson-maroc.com; Ave Mohammed VI) Reliable and much cheaper than the international agencies; also has 4WDs.

  Taxi

  Grands taxis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) leave from outside the main bus station to Agdz (Dh40), Boumalne du Dadès (Dh65), Marrakesh (Dh80 to Dh110), Skoura (Dh25 to Dh30), Tinerhir (Dh80) and Zagora (Dh40 to Dh60).

  8Getting Arou
nd

  Petits taxis run up and down Ave Mohammed V for flat rates of Dh5 per person (based on three people sharing). There is no bus into town from the airport; taxis to/from town cost between Dh50 and Dh80 depending on the time of day.

  Drâa Valley وادة درءة

  From Ouarzazate the N9 plunges southeast into the Drâa Valley, formed by a narrow ribbon of water from the High Atlas that occasionally emerges triumphantly in lush oases, particularly between Agdz and Zagora, a stretch of about 95km. The drive from Agdz to Zagora takes three to four hours, though the more scenic Circuits Touristiques route follows the piste through the oasis. Beyond that, a road takes you 96km further south to M’Hamid, a town 40km short of the Algerian border that marks the end of the road and the start of the desert proper.

  If you don't want to retrace your steps back to Ouarzazate along the N9, it's possible to continue west of M'Hamid through the desert to Foum Zguid, from where you can pick up the N10 north via Tazenakht. For those with more time, it's possible to complete an enormous circuit east on the N12 from Tansikht (29km southeast of Agdz) to the Erg Chebbi dune field near Merzouga and return to Ouarzazate via the Todra and Dades Gorges.

  Agdz اكدز

  Pop 9400

  Travellers who zoom from Ouarzazate to Zagora are missing out on Agdz (ag-daz), a classic caravanserai oasis with a still-pristine palmeraie, ancient mudbrick kasbahs and a secret desert prison. As you approach the town, you’ll see tajine-shaped Jebel Kissane on the horizon, and spot mountain bikers heading off from Agdz to 1660m Tizi n’Tinififft, some 20km away. The mountains glisten with what looks like snow, but that’s a mirage: it’s sunlight bouncing off deposits of reflective mica. Agdz crafts traditions include carving, pottery and basket-weaving, and you might spot a few prime examples outside shops downtown or at the Thursday souq (October and November).

  1Sights

  None of Agdz’s key attractions are apparent from the main road. The historic centre is east of the N9, about 1.5km along a dusty piste, so has been largely bypassed by mass-tourism development schemes. For that very reason, an unusual number of authentic mudbrick kasbahs have been preserved. Overnight visitors might also take a morning stroll through the vast Agdz palmeraie, just to the north of the village.

  Caïd’s KasbahMEDINA

  (Dh30)

  The 170-year-old kasbah that once belonged to the caïd of Agdz is now owned by his descendants. Stop at the reception of Casbah Caïd Ali next door for admission to the mudbrick structure, and explore a maze of rooms spread over three storeys. The play of light and shade in the ancient kasbah could keep photographers entertained for hours, but best of all are the rooftop views over the neighbouring oasis.

  Glaoui KasbahMEDINA

  (customary tip Dh20)

  Long-time residents of Agdz report their shock at discovering that the walled Glaoui kasbah in Agdz was used as a secret desert detention centre. Hassan II’s purges to suppress political dissidents led to the establishment of such secret detention centres, details of which emerged post-2004 through Morocco’s Equity and Reconciliation Commission. It's located on the southern side of the piste near Rose du Sable guesthouse and marked 307 on the gate.

  If you see the next-door neighbour who keeps an eye on the place, you can ask him to let you in the door to look around.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Cafes ring Pl Marché Vert in downtown Agdz.

  Dar JnaneGUESTHOUSE€

  (%0673 18 13 14; www.darjnane-location-sud-maroc.com; r per person Dh350; a)

  Run by a kindly French-Moroccan couple, Dar Jnane has three handsomely furnished bedrooms set amid peaceful gardens roughly 1km (well-signed) off the highway. Meals are available (dinner Dh 60 to Dh90), you can hire mountain bikes, and Lahcen and Dominique can advise on scenic walks in the area.

  Casbah Caïd AliHERITAGE HOTEL€

  (%0524 84 36 40, 0698 90 65 50; Rue Hassan II; d/tr/q incl breakfast Dh240/350/400, mattress on roof Dh50, campsite for 2 people around Dh60; aWs)

  Descendants of the local caïd welcome guests to their partially restored kasbah. Courtyard guest rooms are basic, though the colourfully painted ceilings add character. Camping is good beneath the palms, and you can also sleep outdoors on the terrace beneath star-filled skies.

  In early April, the kasbah hosts an international music festival on the grounds – well worth attending if you're passing through.

  Dar AmazirGUESTHOUSE€€

  (%0524 84 37 93; www.daramazir.com; d/ste from Dh600/900; aWs)

  A delightful hideaway in Agdz, the Dar Amazir is a rather compact property, with an enticing swimming pool at the centre, and eight lovely rooms set with Malian masks, Berber tapestries on the walls, carved wooden doors and smooth tadelakt bathrooms. The friendly host rolls out the welcome mat with mint tea upon arrival, and makes guests feel right at home.

  Kasbah AzulGUESTHOUSE€€€

  (%0524 84 39 31; www.kasbahazul; Agdz; d incl breakfast Dh935-1265, ste Dh1430-2100; paWs)

  Hiding in a garden at the eastern end of the historic centre like an arty recluse, this seven-room kasbah has beautifully furnished rooms with tadelakt en suites in contrasting hues: acid green and plum, terracotta and powder blue. The owner contributed her own collaged lamps and paintings to this artist’s retreat, which also has a keyhole pool and copious breakfasts.

  8Getting There & Away

  Buses from Ouarzazate (Dh30 to Dh40, one hour) and Zagora (Dh40, two hours) stop in the Grand Place; the CTM office is in the northeast corner of the square. You can also pick up grands taxis here for Ouarzazate (Dh30 to Dh40), Zagora (Dh40) and N'Kob (Dh30). The back country road N12 to Rissani meets the N9 29km east of Agdz.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  THE IDEAL DATE

  For prime date selection, head to Tinzouline, about 56km south of Agdz, during the September to November date season. You’re getting close when you spot vendors with dates overflowing from palm-frond baskets along the Zagora road. You may run into traffic for the Monday souq, where you’ll be elbow to elbow with local grandmothers vying for the best local-speciality boufeggou dates. This is a date to remember: nicely caramelised outside by the desert sun, and tender and savoury-sweet inside.

  If you’re not visiting the valley in autumn, you still have a standing dessert date in Timidarte, where local dates become Slow Food sensations at Timarine Tijara, 18km south of Agdz. Head past historic mudbrick kasbahs, through the garden of a traditional family home, and into a spotless white-tiled kitchen with a single industrial cauldron bubbling merrily away and a dozen jars of Timarine Tijara’s signature date jam and tahalout (date syrup). ‘Try drizzling some on warm goat cheese – it brings out the nutty, fruity flavours in our dates’, advises owner and date gourmet innovator Abderrahim Ouagarane.

  Tamnougalt

  Perched on a hill 6km from Agdz is a star attraction of the Drâa Valley: a 16th-century fortified village that’s among the oldest mudbrick ksour still standing.

  1Sights & Activities

  oKasbah des CaïdsCASTLE

  (Musée du Tamnougalt; Dh20, optional guide Dh50)

  The maze of rooms at Tamnougalt ksar leads through a sizeable mellah, dips underground with strategically placed skylights and candle nooks, and emerges into sunny courtyard stables lined with horseshoe arches. See if you can distinguish between the Arab, Andalusian and Berber Jewish motifs that blend so seamlessly here – or at least recognise scenes shot here from Oscar-winning movies Babel and The English Patient. Purchase tickets at Chez Yacob.

  Abdel JalilOUTDOORS

  (%0673 61 84 00)

  Multilingual guide Abdel Jalil has an office just outside the Kasbah des Caïds and offers guided visits of the kasbah (Dh50) as well as longer excursions through the village and palmeraie (Dh100). He can also help arrange overnight stays with families living inside the ksar and many other activities.

  WORTH A TRIP

  CIRCUITS TOURISTIQUES

  Those with 4WD shouldn’t miss the s
lower, scenic piste that runs from Tamnougalt to just north of Zagora, parallel to highway N9. The dirt road winds along the northern side of the valley through palm oases, villages, patchwork fields and river vistas all the way to Zagora. For shorter 4WD excursions along the scenic northern side of the Drâa, follow signposts for ‘circuits touristiques’ off N9 (near the Afriquia petrol station) just before Ouled Aïtman that lead past Kasbah Said Arabi and the Tinzouline kasbah. At Tansikht, about 29km before Zagora, look out for the old watchtower guarding the palmeraie, signposted ‘Oasis Du Drâa.’

  4Sleeping

  Chez YacobHERITAGE HOTEL€€

  (%0524 84 33 94; www.lavalleedudraa.com; r per person incl half-board Dh300; a)

  Next door to Tamnougalt’s ancient mellah are eight snug rooms with en suites ringing a soaring courtyard and capped by a scenic terrace overlooking the palmeraie. Set menus (Dh90) are bountiful enough to count as lunch and dinner. It’s 2km from Rte de Zagora down an unpaved lane.

  oBab el OuedGUESTHOUSE€€€

  (%0660 18 84 84; www.babelouedmaroc.com; d Dh825-935, tr Dh1320, ste Dh935-1815; pas)S

  Shaded by date palms in a walled organic garden, these ecofriendly bungalows 6km south of Agdz beam with local pride, thanks to wooden doors carved in town, carpets from nearby Tazenakht, palm-beamed ceilings, and glossy tadelakt bathrooms. By keeping the pool small and the toilets low-flow, the French- and English-speaking owners conserve enough water to grow 60 types of plants, including herbs and vegetables for Moroccan-Mediterranean meals.