Lonely Planet Portugal Page 2
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Top Experiences
Staying in a Pousada
Portugal has its share of boutique hotels and lavish beach resorts, but some of its most memorable lodging is found inside its lavish pousadas (upmarket inns). The settings are historic and jaw-dropping: clifftop mansions, 300-year-old castles and former monasteries – like the Pousada Convento de Évora – are among the 40 pousadas sprinkled across the country. Where else can you lodge in antique-filled rooms where dukes once slept, contemplating the age-old beauty of the landscape? Pulling aside curtains, you’ll gaze upon rolling vineyards, boulder-strewn mountains or the glimmering coastline.
Sabine Lubenow / Getty Images ©
Top Experiences
Nightlife in Lisbon
Lisbon's dizzying nightlife is a mix of old-school drinking dens, brassy jazz clubs and stylish lounges. The challenge is where to begin. You can start the evening with sunset drinks on a panoramic terrace overlooking the city, then head to Bairro Alto for tapas and early evening cocktails on people-packed, bar-lined streets. Then head downhill to Cais do Sodré, a former red-light district turned hipster playground, or to Bica for a lively local bar scene. At the end of the night there's always riverside Lux, still one of Portugal's best nightspots.
Minemero / Getty Images ©
Top Experiences
Alcobaça, Batalha & Tomar
These medieval Christian monuments – all Unesco World Heritage Sites – constitute one of Portugal’s greatest national treasures. Each has its own magic: the whimsy of Manueline adornments and the haunting roofless shell of the unfinished Capelas Imperfeitas at Batalha’s monastery; the great kitchen at Alcobaça’s monastery, where a multistorey chimney and fish-stocked river once tended to the appetites of countless monks; and the labyrinthine courtyards and mysterious 16-sided chapel of the Knights Templar at Tomar’s Convento de Cristo.
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Top Experiences
Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela
Portugal’s highest mountains blend rugged scenery, outdoor adventure and vanishing traditional ways. At Torre, the country’s highest point (artificially pushed up to 2000m by the addition of a not-so-subtle stone monument!), you can slalom down Portugal’s only ski slope. Hikers can choose from a network of high country trails with stupendous vistas. Oh, and did we mention the furry sheepdog puppies that frolic by the roadside? You’ll long to take one home.
Joel Santos / Getty Images ©
Top Experiences
Villages of the Beiras
From schist-walled communities spilling down terraced hillsides to spiky-edged sentinels that once guarded the eastern border against Spanish incursions, the inland Beiras are filled with picturesque and historical villages: Piódão, Trancoso, Sortelha, Monsanto, Idanha-a-Velha… Today mostly devoid of residents but not yet overwhelmed by mass tourism, they are some of the country’s most peaceful and appealing destinations. String a few together into the perfect road trip – or, better yet, don your walking shoes and experience these ancient places at a medieval pace.
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Top Experiences
Festivals
There’s always something to celebrate in Portugal. For Easter processions, head to Braga. Romantics will love Lisbon’s mid-June Festa de Santo António, with ubiquitous parties and locals plying sweethearts with poems and pots of aromatic basil. In August, catch Viana do Castelo’s Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia, where gigantones (giants) parade down sawdust-painted streets alongside gold- and scarlet-clad women. And, in winter, young lads wear masks and colourful garb in Trás-os-Montes’ villages during the pagan-derived Festa dos Rapazes.
Renato Seiji Kawasaki / Shutterstock ©
Top Experiences
Coimbra
Portugal’s atmospheric college town, Coimbra rises steeply from the Rio Mondego to a medieval quarter housing one of Europe’s oldest universities. Students roam the narrow streets clad in black capes, while strolling fado musicians give free concerts beneath the Moorish town gate or under the stained-glass windows of Café Santa Cruz. Kids can keep busy at Portugal dos Pequenitos, a theme park with miniature versions of Portuguese monuments; grown-ups will appreciate the upper town’s student-driven nightlife and the new cluster of bars and restaurants in the riverside park below.
Saiko3p / Shutterstock ©
Top Experiences
Óbidos
Wandering through the tangle of ancient streets and whitewashed houses of Óbidos is enchanting any time of year, but come during one of its festivals and you’ll be in for a special treat. Whether attending a jousting match or climbing the castle walls at the medieval fair, searching for the next Pavarotti at the Festival de Ópera or delving into the written world at Fólio – Portugal's newest international literature festival – you couldn’t ask for a better backdrop.
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Top Experiences
Barcelos Market
The Minho is famous for its sprawling outdoor markets, but the largest, oldest and most celebrated is the Feira de Barcelos, held every Thursday in this ancient town on the banks of the Rio Cávado. Most outsiders come for the yellow-dotted louça de Barcelos ceramics and the gaudy figurines à la local potter Rosa Ramalho, while rural villagers are more interested in the scrawny chickens, hand-embroidered linen, hand-woven baskets and hand-carved ox yokes.
Alan Copson / Getty Images ©
Top Experiences
Azulejos
Some of Portugal’s most captivating works of art are out on the streets – free viewing for anyone who happens to stroll past. A great legacy of the Moors, the azulejo (hand-painted tile) was adopted by the Portuguese and put to stunning use over the centuries. Exquisite displays cover Porto’s train station and iconic churches, with larger-than-life stories painted on the ceramic surfaces. Lisbon has even more eye candy, with azulejo-adorned buildings all over town. The best place to start the hunt: Museu Nacional do Azulejo, home to azulejos dating back 400 years.
Krzysztof Dydynski / Getty Images ©
Top Experiences
Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês
The vast, rugged wilderness of Portugal’s northernmost park is home to dramatic peaks, meandering streams and rolling hillsides covered with wildflowers. Its age-old stone villages seem lost in time and, in remote areas, wolves still roam. As always, the best way to feel nature’s power is on foot along one of more than a dozen hiking trails. Some scale peaks, a few link to old Roman roads, others lead to castle ruins or waterfalls.
Top Experiences
Braga
Portugal’s third-largest city is blessed with terrific restaurants, a vibrant university and raucous festivals, but when it comes to historic sites it is unparalleled in Portugal. Here’s the remarkable 12th-century cathedral, there’s a 14th-century church. Braga has not one but two sets of Roman ruins, countless 17th-century plazas and an 18th-century palace turned museum. Then there’s that splendid baroque staircase: Escadaria do Bom Jesus, the target of penitent pilgrims who come to make offerings at altars on the way to the mountaintop throughout the year.
Calle Montes / Getty Images ©
Top Experiences
Pastries
One of the great culinary wonders of Portugal, the cinnamon-dusted pastel de nata (custard tart), with its flaky crust and creamy centre, lurks irresistibly behind pastry counters across the country; the best are served piping hot in Belém. Of course, when it comes to dessert, Portugal is more than a one-hit wonder, with a dazzling array of regional sweets – from the jewel-like Algarve marzipan to Sintra’s heavenly almond-and-egg travesseiros to Serpa’s cheesecake-like queijadas.
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Need to Know
Currency
Euro (€)
Language
Portuguese
Visas
Generally not r
equired for stays of up to 90 days; some nationalities will need a Schengen visa.
Money
ATMs widely available, except in the smallest villages. Credit cards accepted in midrange and high-end establishments.
Mobile Phones
Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked European, Australian and quad-band US mobiles.
Time
GMT/UTC in winter, GMT/UTC plus one hour in summer.
When to Go
High Season (Jul & Aug)
AAccommodation prices increase 30%.
AExpect big crowds in the Algarve and coastal resort areas.
ASweltering temperatures are commonplace.
AWarmer ocean temperatures.
Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Nov)
AWildflowers and mild days are ideal for hikes and outdoor activities.
ALively festivals take place in June.
ACrowds and prices are average.
AColder ocean temperatures.
Low Season (Dec–Mar)
AShorter, rainier days with freezing temperatures at higher elevations.
ALower prices, fewer crowds.
AAttractions keep shorter hours.
AFrigid ocean temperatures.
Useful Websites
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/portugal) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
Portugal Tourism (www.visitportugal.com) Portugal’s official tourism site.
Portugal News (www.theportugalnews.com) The latest news and gossip in Portugal.
Wines of Portugal (www.winesofportugal.info) Fine overview of Portugal’s favourite beverage, covering wine regions, grape varieties and wine routes.
Important Numbers
Country Code 351
International Access Code 00
Ambulance, Fire & Police 112
Exchange Rates
Australia A$1 €0.66
Canada C$1 €0.70
Japan ¥100 €0.83
New Zealand NZ$1 €0.63
UK £1 €1.27
USA US$1 €0.89
For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.
Daily Costs
Budget: Less than €50
ADorm bed: €15–22
ABasic hotel room for two: from €30
ALunch special at a family-run restaurant: €7–9
ASecond-class train ticket from Lisbon to Faro: from €22
Midrange: €50–120
ADouble room in a midrange hotel: €50–100
ALunch and dinner in a midrange restaurant: €22–35
AAdmission to museums: €2–6
Top End: More than €120
ABoutique hotel room: from €120
ADinner for two in a top restaurant: from €80
AThree-day surf course: €150
Opening Hours
Opening hours vary throughout the year. We provide high-season opening hours; hours will generally decrease in the shoulder and low seasons.
Banks 8.30am–3pm Monday to Friday
Bars 7pm–2am
Cafes 9am–7pm
Clubs 11pm–4am Thursday to Saturday
Restaurants noon–3pm & 7–10pm
Shopping malls 10am–10pm
Shops 9.30am–noon & 2–7pm Monday to Friday, 10am–1pm Saturday
Arriving in Portugal
Aeroporto de Lisboa (Lisbon) Metro trains allow convenient access to downtown (€1.90, 20 minutes to the centre, frequent departures from 6.30am to 1am). The AeroBus (€3.50) departs every 20 minutes from 7am to 11pm, while a taxi to the centre will cost around €15 and take around 15 minutes.
Aeroporto Francisco Sá Carneiro (Porto) Metro trains run frequently to the city centre (€2.45, including €0.50 Andante card) and take about 45 minutes. A taxi will cost €20 to €25 and take around 30 to 60 minutes.
Aeroporto de Faro (Faro) Buses run to the city centre (€2.20) every 30 minutes on weekdays and every two hours on weekends. A taxi will cost around €13 (20 minutes).
Getting Around
Transport in Portugal is reasonably priced, quick and efficient.
Train Extremely affordable, with a decent network between major towns from north to south. Visit Comboios de Portugal for schedules and prices.
Car Useful for visiting small villages, national parks and other regions with minimal public transport. Cars can be hired in major towns and cities. Drive on the right.
Bus Cheaper and slower than trains. Useful for more remote villages that aren’t serviced by trains. Infrequent service on weekends.
First Time Portugal
Checklist
ACheck whether you can use your phone in Portugal and ask about roaming charges.
ABook your first night's accommodation.
ACheck the calendar to see which festivals to visit (or avoid!).
AOrganise travel insurance.
ACheck airline baggage restrictions.
AInform your debit-/credit-card company of your travel plans.
What to Pack
APhrasebook
ATravel plug
AGood walking shoes
AEarplugs for thin-walled guest houses and noisy weekend nights
ASunscreen
ASwimming towel
ARain jacket (especially in winter)
AEnglish-language reading material
Top Tips for Your Trip
APortugal's mercados (markets) are a great way to sample the country's culinary bounty. You'll find breads, cheeses, olives, smoked meats, fruit and vegetables – all ideal for picnics.
AGet off the main highways and take to the back roads. Sleepy villages, roadside fruit stands and tiny lanes leading to remote beaches are a few reasons to get off the beaten path.
ADo learn a few phrases in Portuguese. You’ll earn respect and more than a few smiles with a well-placed ‘bom dia’ or ‘muito obrigado’.
AAlong those lines, don’t try to use Spanish, which can rub some folks the wrong way. You’re better off just using English.
ADon’t be put off by the sometimes dour-looking Portuguese. Make the effort to approach and engage people, and you’ll find an incredibly hospitable and warm-hearted country.
What to Wear
Portugal is a fairly casual destination, though most Portuguese tend to wear trousers (rather than shorts) outside resort areas. For upscale dining, smart casual is all that’s required – no restaurant will insist on jackets or ties, and nor will any theatre or concert hall.
Nights can get windy or chilly, so bring a lightweight jacket in summer, and be prepared for rain and cooler temperatures in winter.
Sleeping
Although you can usually show up in any town and find a room on the spot, it's worthwhile booking ahead, especially for July and August.
AGuesthouses Small, often family-run places, some set in historic buildings; amenities range from simple to luxurious.
AHostels Portugal has a growing network of hostels around the country, with many choices in Lisbon and Porto.
ATurihab Properties Options to stay in characterful manor houses, restored farmhouses or self-contained stone cottages.
APousadas Unique accommodation inside former castles, monasteries and estates; nearly three dozen pousadas are spread across the country.
APrivate rooms and apartments Loads of online listings throughout Portugal.
Money
ATMs are the easiest way to get cash in Portugal, and they are easy to find in most cities and towns. Tiny rural villages probably won't have ATMs, so it's wise to get cash in advance. Most banks have a Multibanco ATM, with menus in English (and other languages), that accept Visa, Access, MasterCard, Cirrus and so on. You just need your card and PIN. Keep in mind that the ATM limit is €200 per withdrawal, and many banks charge a foreign transaction fee (typically around 2% to 3%).
Most hotels and smarter restaurants accept credit cards; smaller guesthouses, budget hotels and smaller restaurants might not, so it's wise to ha
ve cash with you.
Tipping
ARestaurants In touristy areas, 10% for exceptional service. Elsewhere, tipping is rare.
ABars Not expected unless table service is provided, then no more than the loose change.
ASnack bars It's courteous to leave a bit of spare change.